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About ErronB

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  1. At least give him a chance to order you a huge box of replacement wicks before you destroy him lol.
  2. I have one, made some soy candles and didn't have any problems with it. Just bear in mind it's only meant for soy because of the temp ranges it does in the cycle.
  3. For me it's usually wick up a bit but I get more mushrooming with 4627, the HT after no curing is worth it though. I've still not found a 'perfect' wick for it with any of my FO's, but trimming LX's after every burn has been very consistent. I don't like HTP's with it, the 73 and 83 give me MP's as deep as a swimming pool.
  4. I've only had weird smells from it when using high loads of FO, was nothing but trouble and wicking was impossible. I've never had an issue from several blocks when using it sensibly.
  5. I've been using this wax for a few months now and I love it, but due to the inconsistency with thin wooden wicks I gotta switch to regular wicks. I've used HTP and LX plenty before but I've never managed to get the 'self-trimming' to work like I've heard about. Whenever I'd light the candle for the 2nd time without trimming I'd get a high smoking flame. Is mushrooming causing this to happen? I don't get much with HTP but a fair bit with LX. I have to use quite a high FO load (but not max) because my fragrances are light, but just wondered if there was anything else I've overlooked before dropping the amount. I'm not using dye right now and the melt pools are a tad under what I'm shooting for so I don't think they're overwicked. In a 8oz tin I'm using HTP 83 / 93, and LX 18 / 20 / 22. Any tips would be much appreciated before I go wasting a bunch more supplies playing with this whole self-trimming thing lol.
  6. Problend 600 from The Flaming Candle is quite a nice parasoy, but like all the others the HT isn't amazing, Joywax was probably the easiest to wick and work with for me but it had a weird smell I couldn't take after a while. Like TallTayl said above, it's hard to beat 4627 for HT, and it doesn't need long cure times.
  7. 6006 is extremely picky. You will have to experiment with wood in the 0.2 booster / 0.3 thickness ranges, and unfortunately they are not easy to get from anywhere except the wooden wick co. themselves. All of the stores mainly sell the 0.4 or dual 0.2 thickness which is too much for most paraffin type waxes. It will black smoke 90% of the time unless you use a slim width one but then it won't be a very big melt pool. I'd suggest getting the sampler pack if you really want to find a decent one for 6006. https://woodenwick.com/sample-kit/ Just bear in mind that wooden wicks are not very consistent in the thickness ranges under 0.4, so if you want perfection in every candle you should avoid wood in that wax.
  8. The only way I've found to dual wick the 8oz apothecary jars without the top of the glass getting scorching hot is to set the wick tabs right next to each other, of course there's still some space between the wicks that way and because I'm using zinc wicks they aren't gonna lean over, I just didn't know if there's anything else to think about safety wise? I'm only using the 44z sizes, 51z is wayyyy too hot dual with paraffin. Thanks in advance.
  9. It is annoying not having a phone number, but I've had responses in a timely manner via email. The last box of stuff I ordered took them 10 days just to ship it which is unacceptable IMO, but I didn't end up liking their products so I don't use them anymore.
  10. I burned a bunch of the PB 600, was a nice smooth wax but the HT wasn't there for me. I do like their 650 for melts though, I just hate the long cure time.
  11. 99% of the time they’re all from The Wooden Wick Co. A lot of people use the Dual Wicks but they don’t come in their sample pack so they presume they’re made by someone else. I use the 0.2 series in my own parasoy blend so I have to order directly from them, kind of annoying as they are sooooo slow to process orders. Hopefully they will show off their X Wick and Spiral Wick some time in the near future, I’ve not seen them myself but they are listed as options on their newest packaging so I assume they are coming.
  12. I don't use that wax anymore because I couldn't get over the weird smell it has when burning (and the cure times were drastic with some scents), but when I did, I used to use CD10 mostly for a 8oz tin, which is about 3". But obviously FO's are gonna play a big part in what size will work best. I did not have much luck with other wick series.
  13. Somebody gave me a candle with a wooden wick, it's a .02 thick 1/2 inch wide wick in a 8oz tin and it literally burned from top to bottom without trimming or any kind of attention. All I could find out is that it's a parasoy but nothing further. I know it's not 6006 or problend 600, I couldn't find any others in my stash of waxes, and all I could find online is CBL130, are there any others out there?
  14. Permatex Red High Temp RTV Silicone, even with a pair of pliers you're have a hard time getting that tab off once it's set. I just use wick stickers now because I don't pour at high temps, but if I did I'd be using the RTV.
  15. I have one of those tabletop hotplates that I set on a lower temp to stop it dropping dramatically if I need to, I think the whole 'burn off' thing is a bit overblown though unless you're heating past the 200's. I've not had issues with fragrances not binding as it cools apart from 1 time, was a vanilla, had to keep that up to like 190 the whole time. If you're using cotton wicks then backing off the FO percentage like Forrest suggested would help with the temp, and would be better burning. The scents I use are typically quite weak so I have to go balls to the wall on fragrance load and because I use wood wicks it doesn't change the burn characteristics much. I'm testing 2 of those lab co waxes at the moment and they are very nice, but I'll probably stick with 4627 just because of the beast hot throw and ease of use.
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