Flicker

Because 4630 itself will. Have you tried the 4627 as the base? It's VERY sticky and Very soft. Combining the two makes the same butter soft texture as 6006 has. I've worked with every IGI wax over the years pretty extensively and I would bet dollars to donuts the 4627 is the base.

The 6006 itself is made from a wax with a consistency closer to IGI 4627 and 415 blended at 70/30. The Soy in that is only about 30%. 4630 is much harder than the base used for 6006 and using too much soy causes it to pull away and stick all at the same time, like you are seeing.

I've actually used 1343 for years in jars. What container are you using and what is the exact diameter of it where it is widest from side to side?

Please do share if you find anything out. Thankfully wicking wasn't affected but has it altered the throw any?

I am pretty sure that 6006a is made in OshKosh, WI and not the Toronto plant. I could be wrong but we only buy from the one source and we have 6006. It almost sounds like it has too much soy if it cracks like that. Our Ez Parasoy is like that. Frustrating when things change. I hope that it's not something that we are going to all be suffering soon! ack! A few years back tons of the IGI 4625 was not right, but that was an easy, add vybar fix. Surely this would alter wicking and everything. Let us know if you get any answers.

I would be on the phone with the supplier having them make a call to IGI.

This is not true. You can use up to the maximum safe by IFRA standards for any particular fragrance when using them in body care but they must be at least 2.5% safe to be considered safe at 1%. In most base applications there is a maximum of 1% because of labeling. Any additive being added at 1% or less can go at the end of a label. It is necessary for the person making these to check the specs with the supplier for every single oil and refer to the IFRA sheet for each to determine how much can actually be used. Most fragrances would be safe to use within the range of a normal candle for body care. I absolutely agree about insurance however!

But still funny. haahaa

As both a supplier and a user of that wax, that is NOT normal and I don't feel that it would fall within the spec ranges for the wax What else does it say on the label aside from the lot number? Does it say 6006a etc? I've used that wax off and on since Dussek Campbell was producing it, so through three owners and its never changed more than a smidge. It almost sounds like it's not 6006?

It doesn't quite whip the same for that. If you blend a little paraffin like IGI 4625 into it it may do a bit better but it's just not going to fluff quite the same.

This on all levels sounds gross. Why not make a liquid soap from scratch? They are very simple to make and then you're getting what you want. Bronners soap btw is about as castile as my leather boot. I hate their advertising antics.

Just sell full logs, uncut and uncured. That way it's up to them to do the dirty work. I've done that for YEARS.

Would not be 1343 if it is called blended and still mottled. 1343 is a straight paraffin, with no additives and most would inhibit mottle. I used that wax for nearly 5 years for all my pillars, votives and containers.

I work for Bitter Creek. Ours are always neatly packaged. I usually order by the 100 these days but even our master cases of 10K from the Mfgr look good. I am not sure what supplier does that but it just looks careless. I'm sort of OCD so getting that would make me crazy!

What wax specifically are you using and what is the exact diameter of the jar where it is widest from side to side to the nearest 16th of an inch? Also have you tried it with no dye?

You are thinking about far too much at once. Best advice from a 20 year veteran...Pick one wax, work with it, follow manufacutrer and distributor advice THEN move on if it does not work or isn't what you want. After working doing tech support for a supplier for 15 years, I can tell you that most people that start with that much on their plates before they fully understand process get frustrated, give up and ultimately fail.

I used to be a regional manager for a large chain of clothing stores. In the back room of my base store, I had a sign that said "All Unattended Children will be given a espresso and a puppy" I can't tell you how many times over the next ten years I wanted to follow through with that unseen threat. People are rude with candle/soap/lotion. I did a show once where a woman took the cap off every (yes every) bottle of lotion and smelled to find the "strongest one" I mixed by the gallon. I assure you she never found it. People are nutjobs.

It also makes them too hard to smell. Hard to smell = lost sales.

General Liability or Product Liability, you have recieved two answers here. General Liabilty covers slip and fall accidents etc by customers in your store etc. Often craft shows require this coverage as well. Product Liablity covers you in the case that a customer reacts badly to an ingredient in a product you make and is harmed as a result or a candle you made was responsible for a house fire. They are not one in the same nor are they interchangable.

You've been given excellent advice! Embace em, don't try to chase em! I tell people that are really bothered by wet spots to do one of a few things: A. Don't use glass. Tins and Pottery you can not see through. B. Don't make jar candles or C. Use a wax that completely pulls away from the container. IGI 4794 votive blend actually works excellent as a container wax and pulls away completely. No more wet spots

In exactly a 3" diameter using 6006 I use a CD 18. It burns beautifully for me. Melt pool at 4 hours is exactly 1/2" deep. I would say the 3.75" I'd test maybe a CD 22 in. That one is going to need a pretty hefty wick! In a 4" diameter I personally use two CD 10's with most scents. I get awesome throw and burns using those. Some scents need two 12's. I've used this wax now for about the last 6-7 years. I love it!

beautiful!! Great colors!

Hey Scented! years ago when I was using the EcoSoya's I had this same thing happen. The candle would literally crack in the container. Dan from NGI told me to just drape some newspaper over the tops as they were cooling to slow down the process a little. It was cooling on the sides faster than in the center thus when it caught up, CRACK! Worked like a charm and didn't really disrupt my process any. May be worth a try!

Trust Wicks Unlimited for wick info. Bruce is a GOD when it comes to knowing his wicks

I use 6006. What is the exact diameter of the jar where it is WIDEST from side to side, the opening would only apply of the jar is straight up and down?