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EXACTLY! I have done tech support for Bitter Creek for the last 11 years and I can tell you this, Sliver Of Wax is absolutely correct. There is NO point in testing what you are never going to make. Once you add dye, fo, additives it all changes. My recommendation is to test it exactly as you plan to sell it. Otherwise you are simply testing nothing at all.

I love it when my smoker friends leave me lighters btw. free candle lighters! HAAA

Whatever I can find. A lighter, matches, heck the toothpick I lit off the gas range has worked in the past. Not too picky as long as it's fire!

The only one I have used is the one we sell at Bitter Creek. Before we stocked it, I was the tester. It is really strong but it also really needed to be wicked up. Because of that it tends to burn a bit cooler, I'd say to try that at half an oz and see what happens. I didn't personally opt to put it in my candle line (for some reason I dont think it would sell in a primitive market. LOL) so I never tested it but its worth a shot!

No more than a soy candle would. It's just soy oil and wax

I was going to suggest the same thing. Great for guest size soaps!!! I have a friend that uses that for bars she sells to B&B's

Olives are also made using lye

Looks good AND makes me look forward to Saturday. Sadly our bars use Bud or Miller Light for their green beer! Yuk! I will stick to my golden colored Apricot Wheat Beer and enjoy! What a better way to spend the night

I've made that in the past using soybean Oil and soy wax mixed. Easy peasy. Just have to play to get the right consistency. I packaged in a HDPE or PET bottle with a squeeze cap.

The prime itself will make no difference...HOWEVER, the equipment used to tab the machines can and will vary greatly thus the wick itself may burn completely different. You're kind of comparing apples to oranges there. The only way to compare accurately would be to burn them made using the identical equipment which sadly probably won't happen. I can tell you that buying from a source that isn't stable with their supply feed or buying from supplier x one time who buys from wick mfgr b. and then buying from supplier y the next time who buys from wick mfgr a. will cause a difference. Pick a reputable supplier and stick to them for wicks!

The Eco series btw are primed in NGI (EcoSoya) Wick Wax.

Hey Glowworm! All the wicks except the Eco are primed in a 212 with the possible exception of the hemp which I would have to check on. Not sure if those are. But the Zinc, Paper, CD, HTP, LX, RRD, Perfoma all for sure are primed in a 212* at Bitter Creek. Maybe I should add that specific info on the website.

Bitter Creek buys their wicks. We do not prime, cut and tab them in house. So the answer is we don't sell the 212* mp wax. The highest we sell is the IGI 1260 which is a 160. I am pretty sure that like any other wax, the smallest qty it could be purchased in is a min of a pallet. Sadly we wouldn't have enough demand to buy and re-sell it. I have never seen anything higher than 160-+ a few. Sorry.

Bitter Creek's CD wicks are all primed with a 212* melt point paraffin.

Someone said put in the fridge? I've made melt and pour for over 13 years and the fridge is the worst place!!! It is humid and cool. The second the come out, they will warm up and ooze. I recommend never placing them in the fridge or freezer without absolutely not being able to get them out of the mold. Normally if you let the soap "dry" about 3-4 days it doesn't tend to sweat either. I still say you have to come to the dark side and make CP

Ahhh welcome to the wonderful world of mottle! I have done mottle candles for 20 years and what you have there is more scent than the wax could hold. Remember in most candles there is vybar or another binding agent. In a mottle, nothing. The max load that I recommend with the 1274 is 6% sometimes less. Back down the fragrance amount and that will stop and not happen again unless the fo is super heavy. Also I use 3 tbsp per lb steric in a straight paraffin but don't add steric to 1274. It already has it Simple solution, less fo and you will be golden

Looks great! I have a good friend in Sydney! I need to pass your name along to her! I wish I had enough space to do that here. My house is full up!

Another thing you can do is make larger bags and use the tin tie bags. I did that when I made muffin tarts that looked like muffins with whipped frosting etc. They looked cute because you can see them through the window & bakery like too. I sold a TON of Blueberry Muffins tarts like this. I think they held about 12 nicely and I got $12 a bag for them and that was a while back. Packaging so often sells the product.

6.5 weight oz fills "most" jars listed as 8 fluid oz well. So 10# makes not quite 25 jars.

I usually find a 1/0 does well. BUT is it fully filtered? Dark or light in color? Are you adding scent? What one and how much if yes?

Vodka works well for all pains. Oops, that's only if you drink it. Cold Water and Bandage loose to prevent blisters from breaking and becoming infected. If it is burnt enough to blister, it's at least a 2nd degree burn and I personally would have a doc look at it.

I was the person that helped you at Bitter Creek and as a long time user of palm can tell you that with our palm, the wicks you are using, as per our conversation, I told you a #5 square braid cotton would work in a beeswax pillar of about the same diameter as what you are using. Not that it is a beeswax wick. In my experience in the palm wax we sell, which is what I will give recommendation on a 1/0 (not a 0/1) will typically work well in a 3" diameter palm candle. And yes, a candle that is over and under wicked both can and will tunnel. A wick that is too large consumes too much wax, thus not allowing for a complete melt. A wick that is too small essentially will do the same thing. I am sure many on this site will agree with me. Palm waxes are tricky to wick but I find the 1/0 did great for me in the palm waxes we are selling. Square braid wicks are considered the best for a beeswax pillar but no where does it state that is all they are suggested for. Here is the exact information from our website: Square Braid Cotton Wick Bleached Square Braid Wick was originally designed for beeswax candles. Today, this wick is used in all types of candle systems. This unique construction combined with our chemical treatment processes make it an excellent choice for waxes that are highly viscous when molten, like beeswax and vegetable wax. Bleached Square Wick is engineered to curl while burning, minimizing carbon build-up. This wick is constructed of 100% natural fibers and is finished with chemical treatments to improve burn qualities. Square braid wicking is sold raw and un-primed. Choose from 100' size or a 1 pound spool. 5/0 Square Braid Small 1.75 - 2" diameter pillars & tapers 2/0 Square Braid Small/Medium 2 - 3" diameter pillars 1/0 Square Braid Medium 3 - 3.5" diameter pillars #1 Square Braid Medium 3 - 3.5" diameter pillars #2 Square Braid Medium/Large 3.5" diameter pillars #3 Square Braid Large 3.75 - 4" diameter pillars #4 Square Braid Extra Large 4" diameter pillars #5 Square Braid Extra Large 4.5" + diameter pillars *We can only offer recommendations as to wick sizes and applications, but we cannot guarantee any certain wick to work in a certain application because of too many variables involved. The only way to determine the appropriate wick selection is by experimentation. Test burning will be necessary to determine the best wick for your candles! For testing, we offer for purchase, sample packs that contain 5 of each size wick within a series.

An engagement ring from my more than amazing and wonderful boyfriend. It won't happen but it's what I told Santa I really wanted. LOL

If your jar is 4" where it is widest, my suggestion is for two CD 12 wicks spaced so that the tabs are pretty well touching in the center of the jar. CD wicks can be used in any wax. I'm not sure who told you that they are not for soy because Bruce from Wicks Unlimited, Dan from NGI and I have sat down at the same table and discussed at great lengths that CD wicks overall are the best choice for soy. With that said, I personally have used soy waxes since about 1999 and I have used CD wicks with them for as long. My candles made from soy burn awesome! My experience says give them a shot!

You are sort of comparing apples to grapes. A palm wax does not burn the same way as a soy....and a container and a pillar are not going to burn the same either. Same when you compare scented to unscented. First thing is first, a single wick in a 4" diameter soy, probably not the best idea. A mushroom tells me that the wick isn't burning right. It's carbon, a product of incomplete combustion. Have you tried double wicking or using a smaller diameter jar and a smaller wick? Honestly your only two viable options at this point in my experience. I am not sure what soy you are using but I would probably start testing the CD series and use two 12's spaced so the wicks are an inch apart and re-test. You should have good results with that. Comparing anything you make to Yankee really isn't a good comparison. Yankee candles frankly stink.