Flicker

I have been out of candle making as a career now for a couple of years, and thus have not ordered much since. I ran out of wax (GASP! I do NEED smelly things for me!) and had to re-order. Has anyone recently worked with the Ez Soy from BC and can they tell me if they encountered the same soy problems of other waxes of late? Just curious before I encounter problems what I may see. Thanks all!

Charge actual cost of shipping. It is truly the best practice.

Yes the color will come out in the fragrance. It is just too much fragrance or not compatible with that wax. Always weigh your wax and scent on a digital scale. Do you happen to know specifically what paraffin wax you are using? (example IGI 1343, IGI 2281 etc)

Fingernailing, my nightmare! Eventually I omitted the steric, added a bit of petrolatum and used 1 tsp pp (if it continued, just add a bit more) and it completely ceased in my containers. I will assume you are not doing pillars? Microcrystalline wax will also prevent this, but that has become very hard to find.

It is the fragrance that is bleeding, not the dye. What wax is it specifically that you are using?

I used IGI 6006 from the time it was still Dussek Campbell! About 16 years with this wax. I personally found the CD wicks were best. I eventually had issues with zinc not staying lit, because of the zinc. It happened twice and caused me to lose a ton of money so I zapped the idea of them fully after a lengthy discussion and testing session with Bruce Campbell from Wicks Unlimited. I found for me, the 10 was the best size. I could never use a 7 or 8, too small, BUT the wick can vary from one supplier to the next based on tabbing equipment so a CD 10 from one may be the same as an 8 from another.

10% vybar is WAY too much. I would recommend to start .5 weight oz of scent to a weight lb of wax with 1 tsp vybar. It to me sounds like the scent is pouring out of the wax. What wax are you using specifically?

But Yankee's candles have not changed one bit in the past 25 years, and that only came out about five years ago max. 343 really doesn't enhance mottle but it usually doesn't disturb it. I have used that and it can still decrease the effect. My suspicion is that they have never used any additives in their candles.

Vybar inhibits mottle. They likely just use a straight paraffin with no additives other than perhaps mineral oil. Their candles burn very consistent to mine made with IGI 1343 or 2281 with no additives at all.

Honestly after working for a supplier 17 years, I can say the cost is about the same. It's close enough that most often it does not make a difference. A 8 oz jelly jar for me with my soy I used 1 oz per lb of fo but it took 7 weight oz of soy to fill the jar. To the same fill, my paraffin also using 1 oz fo per lb took 6.4 weight oz. So less wax, the cost was a slight bit more but it evened out. I think it's pretty much a wash these days.

Pricing should ALWAYS be based on your cost to produce at a bare minimum. Soy, paraffin, blend...does not really matter. It's what it costs you to produce the candle in total.

So are you burning for the same amount of time each burn? Taking care to trim the wick to the same length before each burn and allowing a full cool down (I like 24 hours - 12-18 at a minimum) between each burn?

I personally always double wicked 4" diameter apothecary jars with that wax using a 44-24-18z in 4627. I spaced the wicks so that the tabs were just about touching, center of the jar. Never really had a lot of sooting that way, providing I kept the wicks trimmed.

Candle Diameter makes all the difference here. With a small jar, widest diameter up to 2.5" I'd say about a 12' x 12' room, enclosed think bedrooms. For a 4" diameter I expect the throw to WOW me in larger areas. Pillars, I don't expect much from unless it's a 3 wick honestly, about a 12' x 12' with a good throw.

they are a coreless cotton wick, but I absolutely have to trim them, they do get too long. I hate to admit this but we probably burn 2-5 of these a month in my house. I can smell candle scents I've never made, so it's sort of a treat, even two years after I stopped selling, I still can't smell some of my original favorite scents we made. I'd test CD/HTP/LX wicks.

I also prefer seamless aluminum with the concave. I have a ton of them! LOL

Yup, he can't decide what to do. Too bad that he ran the business into the ground and lost everyone's trust. The business could have been sold. Or at least the fragrance formulas. '

Nor is Scentsy Smell, People want smell.

Oh the $hit I heard working for Bitter Creek would BLOW your mind. haahaa I will just say, never underestimate the stupidity of the general population!

I had a customer try and tell me a candle "exploded," and she wanted her money back. Not in my system, not a scent I carried, not a jar I used. Just a scammer. Nope. Had another one when we were newbies try and tell me an entire box of votives (18), none had any scent, she had burned them all and wanted her $ back. You burned 18 votives and all were a problem, but you continued to burn? Haahaa Oh I had made 36 from that batch, I had the other 18, my favorite scent, and mine were great. Had another person tell me the candles tunnel burned. Also then told me well, I light them for about a half hour and then blow them out...OY! And the list goes on and on. True problems I always replaced/refunded. Most of those were results of damage during shipping. It pays to ask questions.

I think folks either care, or they don't. End of subject. I sold both paraffin and soy and never had issues selling either. In fact in the end I was down to a paraffin soy, best of both worlds.

I disagree with it being too hot, the melt pool isn't near complete. If the wick had burned to the edges and in inch or so deep, then yes, but there is a lot of hang up here.

You have an incomplete melt pool. The wick is struggling...thus not burning optimally/efficiently. this will create soot, even if the wick is too small. The discoloration in my experience is likely soot. If the wick was hotter, it would burn more complete and cleaner. There is a fine line between too small and just right, the same with just right and too large and until you find that, your will likely see some of these problems.

Except it's not truly representative of the biodiesel industry of current. It used to be that paraffin was the byproduct no one really wanted, thus it was cheap! Now, it's a whole slew of products that are made from the same stuff, and its a competitive market. It's not going to wind up in a landfill, ever. I am thinking you got some pretty dated info. Paraffin however is a natural product, made from crude oil (from the earth) and simply refined. However, it's what they put in paraffin (plastics especially - Vybar, Micro wax) that is not. So is it "green" not necessarily but it is biodegradable in its unaltered form.

What is the melt point of your wax? I think you may be having this issue because your melt point is higher. Vybar 260 is good for waxes with a melt point up to about 130* F. Vybar 103 for melt points above that.