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About coachtom

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    Eastern North Carolina


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    Candles and Bath & Body

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  1. I am currently using CandleWic 4045H Pillar wax. My challenge is the edges of the candle become very soft and tend to 'blow out' when the melt pool reaches the edges. I can 'mold' the tops when I finish a burn but my friends and family that I make these for will not have a clue what to do except light it and enjoy it. Is stearic the best additive to harden a pillar candle. If so would you start a 5%? Thanks for you help....
  2. Not using 6006 but C&S CBL125 using the adhered wicks from WoodenWicks.com. Fantastic HT and CT. Relatively easy to wick 12 oz status and painted tumbler from Candle Science.
  3. I agree started with HTP 52's probably have to go down to 31's
  4. Sarah - you using HTP for your candle bowls as well? Thanks again for all the input !!
  5. Thanks for reaching out Sarah. Is there something I can do to the HTP wick to prevent the leaning? Also what jars do you typically use for CBL125. I plan to keep grinding on the testing. I love this wax. Adhesion is good also. Thanks again !!
  6. Cindy, thanks for reaching back. The first burn was about three hours with the 51.
  7. Started testing CBL125 last week when I read recent threads on this forum. I will say that it truly throws better than any wax I have tested over the last three years. I little background - I use libby status jars - 3.25" diameter 12 oz. I started testing with zinc wicks and htp. I used a zinc 44-24-18 and a htp-104 for starters, liquid yellow dye (just enough to tint the wax and 6% Grapefruit and Mangosteen from CS. If you have not tried this scent do so. Light, citrusy and great in this wax. Did four 3-4 hours burns. Both had very slight mushrooms after the first burn. The HTP t
  8. Thanks Sarah !! I have started testing CBL125 this past weekend...really like the early results. Thanks for sharing and responding!
  9. I will reach out to Brad...thanks!! Still curious on what others do when pouring and curing their candles
  10. Love this forum and as Forrest said earlier when instructing us on his new wick setter gadget was designed; he had learned a lot here. I have as well and I thank everyone for sharing their passion. A few questions: Do you heat your jars first. It may depend on the wax. I have to heat mine...so it seams to get the best adhesion. Which is not working lately. Do you place the jar on a rack or something that has a solid surface? Do you cover your candles while curing? I place a box over mine. We pour ours in my detached garage with a descent level of temp control a
  11. Thanks as always for the feedback !!! Are there certain jar types that are worse than others?
  12. I am testing 4630 with a small percentage of soy in a libby status jar 12oz using HTP and ECO wicks with a 4% FO load and no dye. Both wick types burn well. Some hang up till I get about a half way down then I seems to catch up. Jar temp good. No soot (YEH!). My wicks are doing a happy dance...flickering towards the end of a long burn and even when the wick is trimmed. It seems they both favor the same direction. There is no unusual air flow in the room. I am sure there is some scientific explanation due to lack of oxygen as the wax gets lower in the jar. Are there any recommendations to try
  13. I had some sample wicks from wicks unlimited. I also have some from Candle Science. Mine are leaning and curving causing a real uneven burn. Hangup for me is no problem as a general rule. These are really not good. May try to get a few from Flaming Candle...thanks!!
  14. I am doing some testing with 4630. HTP wicks are working well so far but they are leaning and curling causing an uneven burn. I have read several threads where other chandlers are using HTPs. Was wondering if you are having the same challenges of leaning and curling? Wish these wicks were more rigid. Thanks!
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