Flicker

Carole, I just looked up your order to check on this. It only increased the shipping by $4.98. The total the cost would have been for 9 lbs of scent was $17.26 to your address and the total WITH the containers and other misc items was $22.24. So it was not over $10, it was under $5. We have also credited your account the $4.98 since the office must have done this in error. If you have questions in the future, please feel free to get a hold of me directly. techsupport@candlesupply.com or 715-209-4802 I will be more than happy to look into it. Thanks! Flicker

I brought this to the attention of Rich, did someone from our office get back in touch with you? If no, please send me an email at techsupport@candlesupply.com or call me direct at 715-209-4802 and we will get you taken care of right away! THanks! Flicker

Just hit 1 Dave, it will bring you right to the office order line

The office gals did the change overs...and they got most of it but doing over 500 scents, their minds probably got a bit cloudy after looking at 50-60 a day. Not an excuse but at the same time understandable. I will personally look over all of the scents as I have time to determine if this has been the case. If you ever have issues like this again that don't seem to want to be resolved, PLEASE contact myself at techsupport@candlesupply.com directly. I am in daily contact with Rich and can get to the bottom of things very easily. We really want things to run smooth but there was a lot of turn over in the past year. Many of our long time employees retired and some moved. Feedback is vital to us in learning where things are going wrong.

Normally during most of the year we ship within 48 hours. The worst I've ever seen and I've been there 12 years was 3 days to ship and that is during busy season. Give me a call tomorrow if you get a chance. I will be around 9-5 central time. As for the payment system I am not sure what you mean but Rich and I have talked today since I became aware of this and we want to get to the bottom of things and make them right. My number is (715) 209-4802

You can use either or. I've used both. The 70% works fine and is cheaper and easier to find

We were closed until Jan 2 but that should by now be shipped. Have you checked your account online?

The info may have had tested in CP soap left? None of the oils have actually changed recently but the IFRA standards on them have been updated and those were loaded to the site last year sometime...summer maybe? Sadly some of the oils that were "skin safe" really were like 1-2% safe or less per IFRA stanadrds deeming them unsafe. Those would have been listed on the site. I wish that the info had not changed but that was out of our control. Some of them may have been added and the info like tested well in CP not removed. We had tested it. But the info above listing it as soap safe etc should have been changed when they did that change over. Was it not? I am really sorry about that. I had some oils that I personally used for soap have this happen as well. I was sad. One was Peppercorn. As for Doneen, she left the company about two years ago. It was a hard choice for her but she has moved to another state, started a music store and is very happy. I do miss her tons though!

If you can please email me at techsupport@candlesupply.com Something sounds like it is very wrong and Rich and myself are very concerned about it. We want to get to the bottom if it and make it right for people but if we don't know there is a problem we can't fix it. Please let me know what happened and what was done at all to try and resolve it if anything. Please include your name and the order number if possible as well. Thanks! Again we want to make things right. We don't get over here often so had not seen this. Thanks! Flicker Bitter Creek

There is no way you can seal the ends on those. A new piece of clay or a new piece of wax to push it into is what the mold manufacturer suggests. It is intended for melt and pour soaps. CP would be too soft to get out of it. We tried. You can get M&P out but cylinder molds are difficult to work with. If the end was sealed you would never get it out. There isn't an easy capping solution for them I am afraid. Sorry. As for communication, you would be emailed a confirmation of the order, the confirmation of shipping and a confirmation of the order being charged if the info we have on file is correct. You can also always log into your account online and view your orders. It will let you know if it has shipped. This has never changed. I work there but I work at home and order often. My info has always been emailed and still is. It's automatically done by the system so be sure like I said the info on file is correct I am sorry if our office did not get back to you with the mold size. If they do not get back to you on something like that it's possible it may have been deleted as spam. I check mine daily but I don't get nearly the email the main office emails get. If that happens email back. I am sure it was missed mistakenly. You can always direct any questions about our products to me directly as well at techsupport@candlesupply.com and I will be glad to help you out. I don't get over here often but it's sad to see things like this. Just let me know personally if you ever have any issues or problems, please. We want to make it right!

Hi, this is Flicker, I work for BC, something here isn't right.....and I want to make sure it is for you. Can you email me at techsupport@candlesupply.com with your info? I am sure we can get this all fixed up for you. Not sure why it was charged in that short a time anyway. But it will be fixed. Flicker

A few observations: First, do you plan to sell them with no dye and color? If no, then don't waste your time testing that way. In that diameter container with 4630 a 51-32-18z will work well. The thing you want to do though is actually burn 4 hours a burn cycle. Use a timer! This is recommended and the length of time a candle should be burned. It should be reasonably close after the first 4 hour burn but may take 2-3 cycles to fully melt all the way across leaving no hang up. Second. Don't go by charts. Most are not based on your wax. Most wick charts are based on a straight paraffin wax with no additives. You're not using that and it won't be accurate. They are just a starting point. If you're not burning right after following the info above, then wick up. I only make one container and pull wicks and use a heat gun to correct as I test. For that diameter the following wicks are all in the same size range and should all work or be pretty close in that jar/wax: 51-32-18z CD 12 HTP 93 LX 20 51-32-18P 51-32-18C Eco 8 Just remember, 4 hours. That is what is recommended. I would also test based on how you plan to sell.

If you are vegan you would not be using goats milk Just teasing, I figured you thought of that after. But what I really wanted to comment on was that the method for freezing the GM and mixng in a cold water bath is a great tip for a newbie! I remember the first time I made GM soap. OMG! The stench! I scorched my GM when adding the lye. I had a orange mess of curdled GM. yuk! Smells like ammonia. hurl! Also if a person wants to avoid palm, yep, Lard is my choice also. I personally am not a huge fan of plain OO soaps. I pretty much soap the identical recipe you just mentioned. 50, 25, 25! Works great every time!

From a legal standpoint they can still nab you on trademark infringement if you sell it that way. You are afterall still using their name. I have a friend who is a patent and trademark attorney that filled me in on that. I always rename and then note that it is similar to "xyz scent" in my description.

I use a 51-32-18z in that wax with a 2.5" and it usually works well. I'd say to try and up to a 60-44-18z. THat wax is a stuff burner for sure but the throw is awesome when done right!

Oh yuk! All the time! I also test scents all the time I know I'd rather die than use. The down side is that I have to smell that stink...the upside is still that the stink smells green...weather I like it or not! I always pour the scents I like least first then pour those I LOVE last! I can end on a good note anyway! I hate florals for the most part but sell a lot of them! I personally like earthy scents like Patchouli, Sandalwood etc. or spicy scents. I also love a lot of the mens designer dupes types. I can tolerate fruity scents and some I like but floral...blech!

I have no idea how long you burned that to get a LX 24 to blow out but the recommended size per Dan from NGI is either an HTP 126 or 1212 scent depending or about a 45 ply flat braid or #3 square braid. I personally used the 45 ply flat braid with tons of success. Mine left about 1/4" shell after a 3 hour burn. Be careful to always cure a min of 48 hours before testing wicks. Soy is touchy! Burn away from drafts, trim the wick to 1/8" and time it

I use both these jars in my line with 6006. In a standard mouth 8 oz. I use a CD 10 with most scents and the rest are CD 12 for me In a standard mouth 16 oz I use a CD 18 with most scents and the CD 20 with the tougher ones for me. I've used that combo for years and been very happy.

Did I say you were small? I just said that "most wax companies don't want to deal with you unless you can buy truckload quantities." Which is the truth. I simply answered someone else's question with regards to where to get bayberry. Don't chew me in half for helping someone else. And buying 2000# in the wax industry is small beans. I consider myself small and I buy drums of base oils/chemicals and pallets of wax too. Compared to the big boys, we are no ones.

Most wax companies don't want to deal with you unless you can buy truckload quantities. I work for a supply house. I also sell for a living and have since 1999. Getting 2000 is small beans to most companies, they only want to deal with supply companies and manufacturers that can buy by the truckload. That's likely why you have not heard back from them. IGI used to sell pallets then it went to two pallets. Now it's truckloads. They don't want to deal with small companies anymore because it's just too labor intensive. Just being honest.

http://www.spwax.com/sp-bayberry-wax.htm Strahl & Pitsch sells it. But $1000 a case is pretty high. A pound retail is $14 I'd bet a 50-60# case right now is running about $600-800.

The Slatkin candles they carry?

6006 is soft but not in the same way as 4630. It is a parasoy...about 25-30% soy and likely a base similar to 4630. Its greasy almost but not sticky. Does that make sense? It gives super nice tops and comes out of the molds super easy. The catch is it doesn't just pop out of the warmers. I have to pour out and paper towel wipe clean. 4786 ripples but I'd bet if you blended that and 6006 50/50 it would be awesome! 4786 pops right out of the molds and pops out of the warmers when cooled easily too. I personally find the tarts made from 4786 last longer. I use all scentsy mid size warmers.

I have not done it with those but used to sell 1 oz lotions and I had a stand that held my baskets at an angle and put them in there. That would work awesome, isn't glass, and you can transport them in there.

I use the IGI 4786 which seems closest to scentsy. It dimples on top, I don't care the ones sold elsewhere do too but it holds scent awesome and my tarts last. I have also used the IGI 6006 which worked well but it is soft!