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NightLight

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Everything posted by NightLight

  1. If you can handle them discontinuing products on short notice, or doing fragrance formula switches give them a go. I have had some nice fragrances, but as I have gotten more serious business wise I personally can’t afford instability. If you are just making candles for yourself etc. feel free to order. Personal thing.
  2. CS has a habit of discontinuing products, and changing their oils. If you have spent time and money testing and the. Have announced changes it’s not good. I can’t work with a supplier like that. All my suppliers that I use are for a reason. Good product, Good communication, consistency, quick turnaround. CS has stopped carrying waxes, wicks and changed oils in a short time and without advance notice. If I did that to my customers I wouldn’t have any.
  3. I order from Aztec often and have never had an issue with fragrance seeping. You might be ddi g fragrance at too low a temp, or adding way too much fragrance for your waxes. I have never had an issue once with getting a rapid response to any inquiries with Aztec. If you had issues with fragrances, why did you continue to purchase from the,? They also have one of the best sample programs so you can test before you buy. Any company selling Candle Fragrances will have some that are good in your wax or not. This sounds like this is you not testing fragrances with sample sizes, and or adding too much fragrance, or possible technique, wick issues. if you would like help, you can post a question and lots of people can help you troubleshoot. There are many factors involved in making a great candle.
  4. If you want creamy, you have to add creamy depending on your definition. So try adding 10 per cent of a butter and see what that brings to the scrub. Different butters different outcome adjust for firmness and texture. Some people add a tiny amount of beeswax, but that is up to you. It can give creamy but also waxy. Yes and what are you trying to copy the feel of. There maybe an additional emulsifier, or additive that give the scrub the feel. You can look on label. Try removing oil and subbing with butter, that will give you creamy. Play with Percentages. Make sure you give a good full day for scrub to harden up before testing.
  5. I have found Aztec to have amazing customer service, and they inform customers when supplies are coming in and dates. Far better than other companies I have dealt with. Regarding fragrances. Any company has some that work with wax and some that don’t. That’s why you get samples and test. Many candle companies sell fragrances that have to work with candles and soap. Some work with soap but don’t throw in wax. You have to do your own research and development. And this forum is nothing but encouraging. Fantastic resource for people wanting to learn. You can ask questions and get good answers. There are people here that have been making and selling candles for years and years.
  6. No quick answers and no instant candles. Make 4 ounce tester and you will learn a lot about your waxes. There are a million types of paraffin and soy candle waxes. Candlemakers work years to get their own blend, no offense but part of becoming good at candles is doing your own research and development.
  7. Coloring soy candles! What kind of colorant? Possible you did not let whatever incorporate into the wax enough, and or the wax because of the soy doesn’t handle colorant and it frosts when cools. Also cold weather could contribute. Dig out the wax, reheat and pour and see what happens. Check room temp.make sure it is warm when cooling. Try another color with that wax and see what happens, maybe the colorant.
  8. You can test both options, and or change waxes, and or make your own blend!
  9. Ok from the photo you are not using ESSENTIAL oil which is NATURAL. That looks like a FRAGRANCE OIL which is SYNTHETIC. Different! That oil should be added at 180 degrees. You are adding your fragrance at too low a temp. That fragrance oil may not be strong in candles. Some are and some are not. Test!
  10. You need to try this https://www.fillmorecontainer.com/iced-lemon-biscotti-fragrance-oil-25.html exceptionally strong and is really a lemon pound cake!
  11. Unfortunately I have had a bad experience with this company. I ordered an oil and it arrived near black. Sent emails to the company and they NEVER RESPONDED. That is terrible customer service! So can’t order from them.
  12. Wooden wicks do not seem to be consistent. Fragrance choices are key. Some do well in soy, some paraffin, some in blend. You have to test EACH fragrance. Adding more fragrance to a candle wax doesn’t guarantee stronger throw and can cause all kinds of problems. Candle making takes a LONG time to learn. Candles are complex systems. Type of wax, wick type, fragrance choice, containers and technique. Every additive requires testing. Take detailed notes, and read the forum threads. And my best suggestion, is to go slow to master. And if you’re going to sell make sure you have insurance!
  13. I do a minimum of a two hour burn, but three or four is how people burn candles! Now you might like 8 percent but better test that candle in warmer weather to see if it doesn’t sweat out fragrance. I forget the fo load for that wax. If it says tops 6 percent, it’s that for a reason. I have a 464 candle I was fooling around with, the fo load was only 6 per cent. The candle was in warming environment and that candle has fo sweat like crazy and that wax is supposed to be able to handle high fo load! So though it might be okay now, in Spring and Summer might be disaster. I recommend you try LX wicks they do well in parasoy blends.
  14. I like that idea of putting a harder wax tealite in bottom of container candle. Question is pour temp. If your wax is high temp pour, how do you not have a tealite melt down when pouring over it? I did try harder soy wax in bottom and top with other wax blend but could see the division even in amber glass. not a problem with opaque containers Any great ideas for the pour? Goal of course is to not make so much work that doing production becomes a nightmare!
  15. Ok Grani, Here’s how you test. You are going to a half filled jar and wick for that. Then you’re going to skewer holes and stick wick in the wax to test. You will be able to see if your wick is too hot or not, and then test distance between wick. Try 1/2 inch between wicks and test.
  16. CDs burn hot in that wax, yes changing wick series will help you. I would try LX series.
  17. Not all silicone molds are equal. So for example I have some freshware mold I was using playing around with soap. couldn’t get a clean release no matter what or I used them. Mottled side, pitting. Switched to different silicone molds no issue. Sometimes if you do a quick visit to the fridge or freezer it can help with release. You don’t want to do too long or whatever is in the mold will sweat!
  18. You need to adjust pour temp. Do several testers adjust pour temp.
  19. Add some paraffin and you won’t get pitting. You can get a smooth surface with all natural but you may also have a much harder candle due to additives. There are some soy blend waxes you could add coconut too but they probs have palm in them.
  20. Additionally why don’t you get an inside container non porous then Create mold for concrete outer. There are also concrete sealers sold at hardware stores for countertops. They def work. There are various silicone sealers. You would have to do your r and d regard8ng if they can be exposed to heat and or there is chemical interaction with wax and fragrance oils, you don’t need to kill humans
  21. Why don’t you try melting high melt point wax and coating inside use carnauba wax
  22. Try this https://www.justscent.com/candlemaking-soap-supplies-cotton-candy-super-strong-fragrance-oil.html
  23. My order from California took forever And I got mine before the rush.
  24. Beeswax is really difficult to work with. And no guarantee with new wicks. If you wan to work with it I would be more inclined to blend with paraffin or coconut wax for containers. You will have better luck using it in molded candles, or tapers as Tall Tayl has indicated. If you are to candlemaking I would suggest mastering a soy candle before attempting beeswax. There are many super experienced candlemakers here who won’t work with beeswax.
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