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Sponiebr last won the day on March 12

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About Sponiebr

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  • Birthday August 9

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    CP high superfat Soaps including pine tar soap, Deodorant, Beard Oil, Beard Wax,Trad-Ir Instruments.

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  1. I was told by the sudsy masses over on the OTHER place that the adhesive would discolor or possibly oxidize the soap. But even if I did they're not sticking to kraft paper bands now I don't think they'll stick to soap. The film was delivered today. And the sealer will be here soon. I shall SOON see... But yeah... I'd RATHER do the bags like you. QUESTION: Mine aren't tall and skinny they're short wide bars do you think it matters a flip if they're oriented correctly in the bags? Because I have LOTS of kraft paper bags that would hold my soaps "SIDEWAYS" just not oriented the way I make them.
  2. Trapp... Set the unit button until it only shows OZ. not pounds. Then calculate the total ounces 1 lb. 9.4 oz would be 25.4 oz...
  3. I'd look'm dead in the eye, and say "Liposuction clinics. I got the idea from a movie I saw..." GTFOH! ETA: In all fairness I DO tell them I find whoever has the LOWEST price on the internet or retail store at the time I need the materials and WHOEVER that is gets my business. Basically whatever or whoever is on sale THAT week. And THAT's the honest to God truth.
  4. Ok, my bars are now 3.5"x 3"x 1" and 3.75"x2.5"x1" The vast majority of my bars are the latter sizing group. That's my mainline mold. The first size group is for the custom/seasonal/special request/test batches.
  5. Actually no... They're wider and taller now. I mean most of them are wider and taller. I'll get you some dimensions.
  6. I just bought some perforated 18" polyolefin from National. I was really looking HARD at their system. It LOOKS good. I do absolutely NO in person sales so people can't sniff my soap right on the spot. I can't seem to find a glassine or even a paper bag that will fit my soap bars well. I would prefer your system of wrapping the bars frankly but I can't seem to find any damned bags. I think what I will try is to take a 20" L bar sealer and make a wooden deck for it where the roll of film is at one end and the sealer fits down in a little nook so that the heating element is flush with the deck. Seal the end of the plastic. Stuff with a line of bars. Slide bars to snug up against the sealed edge. Place over impulse sealer. Close bar and seal. Cut sock'o suds loose. Then seal the individual bars and cut them loose. How does that sound to you?
  7. I've HAD it... DONE... OVER IT, NOT gonna PLAY anymore.... What the hell are you on about NOW Sponie? Cigar banding soap! And then having to put the lables on and then having to put tape or PVC shrink bands AROUND the labels to keep them from "flagging" at the ends. THAT'S WHAT I'm on about! So is there anyone else out there using polyolefin shrink wrap systems? If so, what gauge and system are you using? Does anyone have one of these systems used that they want to sell? I'm talking about the polyolefin systems which are the ones that have the plastic wrap feel plastic to them but will shrink down around the bar when a heat gun is put on them. I've got a TON of soaps I'm going to have to be wrapping here VERY soon and I need to figure out a decent system for getting these banged out. My idea being to shrinkwrap the bars and then put my labels right onto the plastic wrapped soap and then, if needed, shrink wrap another layer over that one. Annnnnnd.... GO! Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services.
  8. Stephanie Graham of Micas & More has a stamp that she puts on the outside of her priority mailboxes which is ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT! It reads: "This box is happy to see you too!" BRILLIANT! Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services.
  9. Well, all of these people are agreeing with one another so I'll just go ahead and agree with all of them too. I mean a candle isn't like food or a soap and to be honest I wouldn't even list what was in MY soap if I didn't have to. Come to think of it I DON'T have to list what's in my soap, but I do list it because people are all fussy about the stuff they're rubbing all over their naughty bits. I don't get it, I mean it's not like they're going to be putting it their mout... Oh... MY! What a corner I've painted myself into! Never mind! It ALL MAKES SENSE now...
  10. Ok lemme unnerstand this... You want to MIX FO AND wax AT the same time as you POUR? There's an APP FOR THAT! Seriously there is a thing that does that for you it's called a mixing nozzle: That's an inverted color mixing nozzle that is for sale on Grainger. You see these sorts of things used in products like 2 part epoxy and 2 part silicone rubber mixes. The problem is that you will NOT be using EQUAL volumes of FO to wax so you will have to have some sort of metered pump to deliver the wax at the right rate and the FO and the right rate to get the mix done properly. OR... You can pull HALF of your wax OUT Of the pot add in all of your FO to THAT wax and then pump 50/50 through the nozzle to get your wax properly mixed with tyour FO. OR you can put the smelly wax BACK into the main body of wax give it a stir and then and then pour the whole mess through the nozzle to make sure it is perfectly blended as it goes into your containers/molds.... If you choose the pump method you'll have to have heated lines and blah, blah, blah.... But you already KNEW that... Can I have my cookie now? Slainte, Sponiebr The Executor of BAD ideas and Sundry Services.
  11. TallTayl nailed it and I agree with all the other suggestions ESPECIALLY Sarah_S comment YOU NEED A SCALE. The only other thing I would mention is that you get and USE all of the appropriate safety gear... Rubber Apron ( or at least a canvas apron), rubber gloves for working with lye, and SAFETY GOGGLES. It never hurts to have a gallon of white distilled vinegar NEARBY for when you inevitably splash a little active lye soap on yourself or work area. It's a LOT OF FUN, and it doesn't have to be expensive. If you'd like a cheap formulation that makes a lovely soap and can be purchased 100% (except for the lye) at Walmart I'll be glad to share one with you. Last bit of advice and it is a HARD AND FAST COMMANDMENT that YOU NEVER BREAK. ALWAYS RUN A FORMULATION THROUGH A LYE CALCULATOR YOURSELF. Never trust a soap formula that you haven't CHECKED in a lye calculator YOURSELF. I would also strongly suggest that you never make soap without a lye calculator or a scale. Have fun! Cheers, Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services.
  12. Yep Trapp, ALL soap is made from either vegetable and/or animal fats. Rendering one's own tallow is a rather long and just frankly PITA process. Like TT, I personally prefer the wet rendering method. But it's a LONG process. I also LOVE the smell of rendering beef fat! It smells like pot roast or cheap burgers frying in the pan. (Oh just HEAVENLY) Yeah Trapp... Chickens is CARNIVORES!! They just kinda got to be a bit picky about their prey cause their toothses are kinda small. But seriously, ever seen'm go after a bug before? Yeah they're CARNIVOROUS suckers them chickens! They'll peck the hell out of each other too! The chickens probably like the renderings (cracklins) because they look, feel, and taste kinda like grubs.
  13. When I need to make various sized bands like that I use bungee cordage https://smile.amazon.com/Pepperell-Bunjee-Cord-15-Feet-Black/dp/B00IXWIPMW?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3038236011 I cut it to the exact size I need it to be. I DO NOT buy it from Amazon I get mine locally at Hobby Lobby and it's like $2.98 for 15 feet of 3/16" cord. ( I make combat boot speed laces out of it) :)
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