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What kind of candles are you making? It sounds like you are using container wax to make pillars or shaped candles.

I purchased some coconut wax beads from Candles and Supplies, and could not use the wax. The odor was disgusting. It smelled like canola on a bad day. I tried two testers and it was not a good candlemaking experience. Also cloudy... I won’t use any coconut wax blends being sold because they are not consistent, out of stock.

Possible. You would have to test again. Not a fan of that wax as I found it had problems such as top cratering before and after burn, and frosted pretty fast sitting around.

Glassware is out, out. I bought a bunch when pandemic hit so currently ok but waiting months on order placed months ago. Coconut oil that was a good deal on webrestaurant went up ten bucks. Fillmore can get crazy. I noticed on their popular fragrances the jack up the price. Not going there, not okay.

For every combination in a candle you will have to test wick sizes. You can go by recommendations on candle supply sites as a starting place to find a wick. To find a wick for your container you have determine what type of wax. Soy wax, paraffin, or parasoy. There are many types of wicks. After you pick a wax then you can try a wick type. Then each fragrance has to be tested. Some fragrances require hotter wicks up, or some lower wicks down.

Go to Candle Science and go to the learning section. Candle making is complex involving wicks, fragrance, waxes. You are basically designing a system. In a nutshell not all fragrances through in all waxes, some are strong some light. If it’s a light fragrance adding more not going to make it stronger. Read threads here. Candlemaking is not instant presto. Take your time.

This ” Incline Equity Partners (“Incline”), a Pittsburgh-based private equity firm, is pleased to announce its portfolio company, Wholesale Supplies Plus (“WSP” or the “Company”), a leading B2B distributor of consumable supplies and provider of services to commercial artisans, has acquired Rustic Escentuals (“Rustic”) and Elements Bath and Body (“Elements”). The acquisitions strengthen the customer experience and share of wallet potential by significantly broadening the Company’s product and service offering. WSP can now provide the combined customer base an enhanced set of products and capabilities, including a distinctive and extended fragrance and packaging selection. Founded in 1999, WSP was established to provide commercial crafters with a complete line of raw materials, supplies and packaging for the production of artisan bath, body, cosmetics, candles and other personal care and aromatic products. With over 16,000 SKUs, and complementary resources and value-added support, WSP is the core business partner to thousands of small business owners. Rustic was founded in 1999 and Elements in 2002 and, over the years, have both built a similar base of highly-loyal, for-profit crafter customers. Sam Solomon, CEO of WSP, said, “The acquisitions bolster our position in the market and enable us to provide a more robust offering for the combined customer base. We look forward to continuing to help our customers succeed as small and home-based business owners.” “WSP has an exceptional value proposition and is a critical partner to the small and emerging businesses it supplies,” said Evan Weinstein, Partner with Incline. “The acquisitions will enhance the experience for existing and new customers, which has been our goal since partnering with the Company in May of 2019.” About Incline Equity Partners: Incline Equity Partners, headquartered in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, is a private equity firm investing in manufacturing, distribution and business services companies. Incline is generally seeking growing companies with enterprise values of $25 – $450 million. Incline’s typical investment types are ownership transitions for privately held businesses, buyouts and corporate divestitures within the U.S. and Canada.”

Some soy waxes have more of that look than others. It’s fairly typical of soy wax and an identifier. if you don’t like the look you need to either use a paraffin wax, a paraffin soy wax blend, or learn how to use additives to smooth out the wax. You can also use a heat gun to melt the top layer to make it smooth but after you light the candle and blow it out it will have the crumbly look.

This https://www.amazon.com/Edward-Tools-Paint-gallon-buckets/dp/B01N6U1M8Y/ref=asc_df_B01N6U1M8Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198065490425&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18052112025885565061&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004849&hvtargid=pla-379557406684&psc=1 other types available short long

Voila! https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/food-drink/a19400187/diy-hand-mixer/ There are some fab lightweight cordless drills you can attach your whisks or painter attachment for soap etc. on Amazon

Waring had consumer one for awhile, then they discontinued it. I loved it then it died like all of them. I like the Mueller the price is good, and it has not died on me yet. The Bella is fine, basic but hasn’t been my favorite. I thought a great idea was a cordless drill with blending attachment as solution!

I have a Mueller and a Bella. The Mueller is quite strong. Two settings. The only thing I don’t like about it is that it can kind of suction itself to anything on bottom. Not my favorite bottom design in a stick blender but has power. Have had a number of Hamilton Beach tried and true for the most part -the design of the bottom of the stick blender is better than the Mueller and I find it easier to clean it has more of a cone where the blade it. The Bella is heavy and just okay, not my favorite but it was cheap when got and it does the job like a Hamilton Beach. You can look at photos of Amazon, their are two styles going on with where the blades are conical and then flattish. There are a million of them on Amazon.

If you go to Candle Science and read the instructions for their very expansive wax melter, might be the same usage on this one. So higher temp when container is full, then lower temp when half or lower. This actually sounds better as it seems to be self regulating. I think I would be inclined to put this on lower than standard table top, so you can see where you’re at with wax amount inside,

I would eliminate any food coloring liquid. You should be fine with micas and oils. Liquid food coloring is going to make salt damp unless you dry it out. Yes and you didn’t dry out so the salts dried out in burner. Now if you dried them low temp in oven or with oven light, you could break them up when dry. With ever addition or removal expect changes. That’s part of research and development. If xx doesn’t work try xxx until you refine what you do

Also two heat setting would be curious how you work with those and wax like lower setting get you to xx temp but higher takes you to max?

I see the digi- thermometer! Getting one. Insulate jacketed could be a hot water heater wrap you can buy at Home Depot. Fantastic! Let me know how it goes.like I need another gadget 😂

I see a 110 and 220 models. Interesting. I have the old school master built with thermostat. What do you do about temp regulation? They have three settings?! This would be handy.

You are changing the candle formula by adding more fragrance and they may not burn the same way you tested. it sounds like you did not do fragrance test candle before pouring batches. I always test each fragrance with a test candle for wick size and if the fragrance is good enough. Not all fragrance are the same, some will cause you to wick up or down, some are super string in wax and then some are not good in wax. It is what it is and you have to test.

It sounds like you are doing bath and body recipes by parts. You need to start formulating by percentage for accuracy in your recipes. This way you can test trying 1 percent, 2 percent etc in your body butters. You will know the exact amount, for each version size of your recipe. Now when you test that percentage recipe, make small test batches to test fragrance load.

Try 2 tsp. You don’t need much. Make sure you stick blend it well!

I drink it and use it for cooking Indian food! Also soap making, use the powder. Maybe keep percentage of powder low. I don’t use much in a batch and it makes an impact. It may be too much the amount you’re adding and then it seizes.

I wrote them several times without getting a response that it was getting impossible to use them due to zero alerts ahead of time of them yanking wicks, waxes and fragrances. Maybe they are getting the picture that telling people what’s going on ahead of times is better for business and retaining their long term customers 😂

You could try this one https://www.amazon.com/Native-Forest-Organic-Unsweetened-Coconut/dp/B011LVDECM No additives! I usually just use the powder because it keeps a long time. You could try above then freeze in ice cube trays. Let me know if it works for you. As TT said most coconut mills do have gums added and preservatives that could be a problem.

I have only used powder chaokoh, or bulkfoods coconut milk powder. You need to start with cold water, the. Warm and whisk. It takes a bit to prevent from being clumpy. Canned etc, contains additives to keep it homogenized. Warming it, I nuke just for a few seconds helps it blend better into water then whisk that, the. Add to oils and blend very well. It doesn’t take much in a batch to have great soap. I don’t make soap for a living just for myself so don’t have a percentage to use but generally all my batches of three pounds I don’t add more than two teaspoons of power to reap the benefits.

Coconut milk powder doesn’t dissolve quickly in water. What I do is hold back some water, add the powder, nuke for about 12 - 15 seconds then whisk, add to oils and blend super well. I have never had issues with coconut milk powder. You don’t need a lot to be effective, just a teaspoon or two. Maybe you used too much powder!