Chariste

Do you mean cocomidopropyl betnine? I just happened to be perusing Etsy tonight doing price comparisons and saw this ingredient for the first time in a bubble bar recipe. lol I'd never heard of it but after reading this, I am interested in trying it out myself.

Candle Science, I believe

Hey, I know it's been a while, but I just checked BulkApothecary and they are carrying GB wax now. They are a little steep at $70.50 a case but if you can pick up that might be ok.

Just found a shop up in Brockton, MA that still seems to have Advanced, CB 135, and PB in stock, called Candlechem.com. At least, it let me add cases to the cart though I didn't try to check out. I am making the switch to 464 myself. Advanced is listed at $87.75 a case PB $ 92.75 CB 135 $85.75

I only recently got some 6006 so am interested in this as well. Off the top of my head, what about wicking up or increasing your FO %? Perhaps a longer cure considering the soy component? Aaannnddd just realized I was in wickless forum, lol. Still, FO and cure time? And are you referring to melts, ct, ht? sorry I can't help more, just throwing out ideas.

I am slowly, painfully, and expensively testing to possibly switch from Eco Soya Advanced to GB 464. I have poured undyed the 10 oz classic (the 12 sided jar), 9 oz hex, 22 oz Libbey storage, 16 oz Mason, and votives so far. I have not yet burned due to 2 week cure. My tops are amazing. Single pour, smooth as a dream. The larger the jar, the cooler I poured. 135* for votive, classic, and hex, 125* for Mason, down to 100* for the Libbey. Wet spots are very small and fewer than Advanced. Now, when I started about a year ago, I tried the 464 and hated it. The tops were ugly and pitted though a repour/heat gun would fix. But every one had horrible frosting. Cold and hot throw were great. All these original test candles were dyed. I don't know if the current undyed batch is frosted or if I just can't see it, lol, but they finish their cure in 2 days. The first dyed candles took 3-4 days to frost. I heat to 165*, add FO @ 9% on heat, stir, remove, stir, let cool in the pot with occasional stir, then pour at the temps above. As it's the first test batch, I wicked with what worked in Advanced--CD 10 for classic and hex, CD 12 for Mason, ECO 2 for votive, Libbey is new so did one ECO 16, one CD 20, and CD 22. Sidenote on the CB 135, Eco Soya is changing their formula and from what I've read here, do it fairly often as in every few years. That is why I am abandoning the line and moving toward Golden Brands. Just something for you to consider. Hope this helps, test, test, test! Good luck, looks like you are off to a great start!

I pour novelties as well and have found adding 10% stearic greatly increases opacity in 4625, eases unmolding, and reduces snow spots. I use polycarbonate molds. Hope that helps.

Several people have said NGI does this relatively often so they no longer use them. I have 3 cases of advanced left and 1mof PB but I am going to switch to GB most likely. I just don't have time to retest scents every couple or three years! Just something to consider.

I have been using a laser thermometer for months and love it. I'll never go back to mercury and glass! Lol My candles still come out beautifully fwiw. But to each their own, always do what you are comfortable with. I use metal pour pots as well but never thought of Pyrex, that sounds great.

I'm guessing you mean soy flakes since you are scooping? That or palm? It might be worth the upfront time investment to cobble together a chute flume. A local sheet metal shop could easily fabricate a box that fits to the end of the standard wax box then tapers to the diameter of the flume. Around here that might run $70. The flume could be a 6"-8" section of PVC cut in half? The sheet metal shop could also roll the edges of the metal, I wouldn't want to work with it otherwise, raw edges are basically razor blades. ? Just a thought, hth.

I like the CS tins due to the coating inside but also agree that they are a bear to open! I would definitely be interested in the Specialty offerings but how do they perform with regards to discoloration like with vanilla? Thanks in advance for any info!

Love my presto melters!

FWIW, I received a batch of 4627 from Candlemakers Store a few months back that also behaved oddly. In the bag, it had white, frothy patches. I don't recall the bubbles during melt but experienced the same difficulties getting FOs to blend. I ended up buying another 25 lbs from Lonestar to compare. The FOs that were so problematic (cinnamons and blueberry in particular) did just fine in the Lonestar batch.

I needed to order from Lonestar this evening and checked their FB page for coupons. That was when I discovered that EcoSoya is completely revamping their formula. I have copied this directly from Lonestar's post: Important announcement regarding EcoSoya® waxes: Some of you might know that the FDA has ruled that partially hydrogenated oils (PHOs) are no longer safe for food. This determination has had a huge impact on our industry considering that most vegetable waxes are made with PHOS including the EcoSoya® waxes. This change means that all of the EcoSoya® waxes we currently carry will be changing after the first of the year. This change will affect the CB-Xcel, CB-Advanced, CB-135, and Pillar Blend waxes. EcoSoya® is currently working on new formulations of these waxes that are expected to be even better than the originals. So…what does this mean for you, the customer? This means that our current supply of the EcoSoya® waxes will only be available WHILE IT LASTS. We are doing our best to bring in as much of the wax as we possibly can so that we can accommodate our customers through this busy time of year. We have not yet heard when EcoSoya® will be launching their new formulations of these waxes but as of now we are expecting them some time after the first of the year. We have spoken with our other suppliers for our Golden Brands waxes and the Naturewax C-3 and they have assured us that their formulas will NOT be changing. This is a decision that EcoSoya® has made based on their business model. We understand that changes like these can be very frustrating. It is our goal to help our customers with any questions and concerns you may have during this transition. Please do not hesitate to call us with any questions you may have. You may also e-mail us at customerservice@lonestarcandlesupply.com. We thank you for your patience and understanding. Lone Star Candle Supply Management I just ordered 3 cases to be sure I can get through the season and keep my wholesalers supplied. Just wanted to give a heads up, it was a most unpleasant surprise.

I just use wooden spoons. I haven't had any flaking issues, I have a black non-stick presto and a larger grey one. I wonder if the FOs contribute to the flaking? I know they have eaten up the rubbery top of my scale but I have only scented in the pot a couple of times and always wipe them clean immediately. Just a thought. I would beware paint stirrers just be just because of splinters. But, to be fair, I have had an awful time with splinters lately, including a whole chip of wood under a thumbnail so... :s

I use a 75/25 PB to 4630 ratio. I would have to dig up my notes to be sure, but I believe I first tried a 50/50 and it was way too soft, imo. Difficult to get out of the mold and left a feeling of residue on the skin when breaking off a square. I do like a little snap in my melts, to be fair. Hope that helps.

I use soy Pillar Blend with 4630 in my melts. Gives enough rigidity that the melts pop out of the clam cleanly and break apart nicely. They have a nice creamy appearance and great throw as well.

That sounds amazing, my biggest pet peeve in the process is waiting on batches to melt. I have two presto fryers, a 4# and 6#, but what sort are you referring to, TallTayl? I keep a double boiler going to regulate each pour pot for each batch as I go but it is terribly time consuming. I have 7 pour pots at the moment and often use them all but one at a time. So frustrating!

I use stickums as well. I have a crimping tool that I use to do a second crimp on the tabs then use the stickum. I've never had an issue with them coming loose during burns nor burning too long at the end. I do often give the tab bottoms a bit of a bend when using jars that don't have a flat bottom. It just gives it some extra holding power. I found a thick plastic tube that I use to set the wicks but I also just eyeball the center. I do use cardboard templates for double and triple wicking.

Thanks so much all, I appreciate you sharing your expertise. I am serious in moving ahead in this business but also trying to be cost conscious! You are so right, birdcharm, never once has worry or stress improved a situation. Lol Jcandleattic and kandlekrazy thanks for setting my mind at ease. I don't have a problem with investing in this but wondering about things going bad had me concerned.

I am 6 months into candle making and have my first shows coming up in Nov. I haven't had many sales on my line but my wholesale efforts are selling well to great reviews. All to say that I have several spring/summer oils stocked in a cabinet and have been driving myself crazy trying to buy just enough fall/holiday oils for the candles I hope to sell. It occurred to me that the process would be much less stressful if I knew how long the FOs could be stored in a cool, dark place. Basically, will they be fine come the start of the next season? And what about finished candles? If properly stored, would/do you unpack, maybe burn one to test, then offer candles that were poured last season? Do you have a timeframe after which you consider or know that FOs or candles have "expired?" Thanks in advance!

I have been through a few cases from them but never noticed scratches. Are you talking about the smudgy scratchy spot toward the center bottom of the jar in the pic? I would mainly be concerned about cracking due to thermal shock when the candles burned down. Sorry I can't be more help. :s

I have not even with a few that I dyed pretty heavily in scarlet. That was a block. Another I mixed brown dye block with ivory liquid dye chasing the perfect caramel color. It turned out well and burned fine. Hope that helps.

I would give them to a friend or family member to test and see what they think. I can't smell any of mine but they have thus far gotten rave reviews. And consider how different everyone's experience has been with varying wick sizes, brands, and types of wax. It may not be anything you are doing wrong at all! This can get very frustrating, I know, I had to make myself hang in there, too. I felt like I was spending a ton of money but making no progress. But things began to turn around and once I got a few successful recipes under my belt, it was much easier to be patient.

Hey, Clear Black, thanks for the response! I hear you and understand what you mean. I ordered Black Raspberry Vanilla, for example, from 4 different places just to find the one I liked the best. I use FO's from The Candlemaker's Store, Candlescience, and Lonestar predominantly. I also cost checked #50 4627 and, with shipping, listed out at $110.05 from Aztec, $113.91 from The Candlemaker's Store, $114.04 from Lonestar, and $118.12 from Candlescience. Shipping cost of course is the biggest variable, I always run a few "carts" from different places in order to find the best deal. But that, as we've seen, informs my issue since the wax from two different retailers acts in such very different ways. At any rate, posting these findings in the hopes it helps someone else. I just ordered #50 of GW444 and Eco Soya Advanced from Aztec as the shipping and thus overall cost was cheapest. But I am also only 4 hours away from both Aztec and The Candlemaker's Store. As demand (hopefully!) for my product rises, I have considered even making a large order for pickup just to save in shipping costs. I guess I have been spoiled by Amazon Prime shipping, I was shocked to discover what shipping can run. Thanks for your help, though, so much depends on supplier!