bfroberts

Exactly. I love this pic for reference. The MP shape is why I don’t like HTP wicks for those waxes. More tendency to lean because the MP is deeper around the wick, although they do burn very well.

Not powdered sugar but WSP also has a Sugar fragrance in their Formulator line. It's supposed to be straight up sugar crystals. I haven't tried it, so IDK.

Container plays a big part too. I use 16oz square masons mostly. A taller container with shoulders holds in a good bit of heat as it burns down allowing you to use a smaller wick than you would with a tumbler type container of the same diameter. This can result in a smaller, more controlled flame, slower burn, less mushrooming. There are a lot of factors at play.

For 4630, zinc and LX. For 6006, Eco, LX, CD, zinc The Candle Science wick guide is pretty accurate for both of those waxes.

I also like Apple Harvest from CS. For a straight apple, Macintosh Apple from CS is my go-to. You can blend it with just about anything. RE has a couple of really good apple scents too.

Trust the supplier. Buy the recommended size plus one size up and one size down to compare, or buy a sample pack. Don't believe anything you see on YouTube or FB unless it's from a reputable supplier like Candle Science. Most people have no idea what a successful candle looks like. Eco 8 is crazy big for a jar that size. Is it a jelly jar? If so, Eco 2 works, sometimes Eco 1. Also, 6006 needs to cure. You will not get a good burn if it's freshly poured. Wait at least a week, ideally 2.

Like TT said, some FO's are just duds. If you've had success in the past, there could be another explanation. Which waxes are you using, specifically? (Ex.: IGI 6006, GB464, a custom blend, etc.?) They all have their quirks, sometimes there are inconsistencies, all kinds of things that could be going on. Specifics will help us troubleshoot.

The Candle Science wick guide is pretty accurate for both of those waxes. https://www.candlescience.com/learning/wick-guide Just note that it may not seem like the correct wick if you try to burn the candle when it is freshly poured. They really do need to cure. There is no reason not to add FO at 185-190. Lower can be problematic. Pour temp is something you just have to experiment with.

Did anyone else pour a bunch of palm candles after reading this thread?

Both 4630 and 6006 already contain the optimal additives. There is NO benefit to adding more. Both of these waxes have a great HT. If you aren't having any luck, there's an issue somewhere. It could be the FO. Some just won't be strong no matter what you do. There is no benefit to adding more than 6-7% FO either. If it doesn't throw at that %, it's not going to throw. Don't wick too hot. Wicking too hot can also inhibit throw. Do not worry about achieving a fell melt pool in the first couple of burns. Often, if you wick hot enough to get a FMP early, it's too hot. Cure time is important no matter what you have heard otherwise. Both of these waxes will burn much better and more efficiently if allowed to cure at least a week. More is better. And don't add FO at low temps. Heat to at least 185 before adding FO.

They aren't exactly equivalents but I would say RRD 29 & RRD 34 would be the closest. I'm sure Candybee knows better than I do, but that's my best guess. IME, CSN 9 and RRD 34 both work well for my 16oz square mason jars, but CSN burns with a smaller flame than RRD. Neither self-trim, but RRD seems to need a little more trimming.

Wow...that seems heavy handed. Disturbingly so.

Welcome! This is a great place to learn, research and have questions answered. You are obviously off to a great start! It can be a maddening craft, that's for sure, and you've gotta love it to put up with all the testing, reformulations, wax inconsistencies and whatnot. It's like a saga that never ends. Good luck to you!

My PP experience has been the opposite of yours, and I'm trying to figure out why. We have used PP since the late 90's. We use them for website bookings, online sales, and as our in-store cc processor. I've always said I stay with them because they always have my back, which is worth the slightly higher fees. I've only had a few disputes, and every single one that wasn't a valid claim has been sided in our favor. We had a couple of valid claims that were 100% deserving of a refund, but the customers filed a claim before contacting me, and when they filed, I immediately refunded. I currently have one chargeback pending. It is obviously a scam, I have a ton of documentation to back me up, so I think we will win that one too. After hearing your experience, I would love to know what the difference is. Do they treat in-store purchases differently than online purchases? Do long-time customers have an edge? IDK. In one of our chargebacks, we didn't actually win (w/the buyers cc), but PP covered the charge for us, which was $450.50, and no $ was taken from our account. It's just weird as heck to me that they are always siding with the buyer in your cases.

What I can't figure out is why, in a side by side comparison with paraffin pillars, palm pillars don't seem to burn as disproportionately fast as palm containers.

Most definitely.

I've thought about it...extensively....but my main container seems to be between wick sizes using CSN wicks, and I just never seem to have the time to figure that out. I do a lot of feather palm pillars, which I absolutely love making, but the sales aren't there for me.

And it looks like you have quite the collection....LOL

Nice. I saw this post the other day and thought it looked like feather palm too. For what it's worth, I use feather palm for pillar candles. It's my favorite of the palm waxes actually. It's super easy to work with....just in case you want to start a new project

Candlewic, The Flaming Candle, Lonestar, and there are others. Just Google.

I made exactly 1 case of 16oz salsa jars with palm wax for Christmas gifts a couple of years ago. I am pretty sure I used CSN 14. I've got some notes from testing those jars around here somewhere. If I can find them, I'll update you just to confirm.

What wick are you using?

I'm not sure about Michaels, but the Country Lane brand of candle supplies sold at Hobby Lobby is owned by Candlewic.

It's not vastly different, and a good cure fixes a lot. I'm not sure it's not a moisture issue...at least partly. Ugh. I had a feeling. And now with the CBL130. Geez. I'm working on blending my own parasoy with C3, because I really don't know what else to do. Testing something brand new doesn't seem as drudging as having to retest the same wax over and over and over.

Do you know if the newest batches are still bad? I haven't bought any in a long time. Some of the pics I've been seeing look like it's still the same gooey mess.