bfroberts

Have you ever had an instance in which one bottle of FO performed much better than another bottle of the same FO? I ordered an 8oz of a certain FO for testing last summer. Tests went very well, and I decided to introduce the scent to my line. My next order of the same FO was for a 2# bottle which happened to be on sale at the time I ordered it. Fast forward to now, when I am making candles with the 2# bottle of FO and I have virtually no throw. Same wax, same wicks, same container. Same batch of all. The only difference is this bottle of FO. Since it was on sale when I purchased it, I wonder if it was cut/diluted/whatever you call it, and that's the difference between the original bottle and this one. I am hesitant to say which company I bought this from in case the problem is me, but after a dozen or so testers, I'm really not finding any other possibility.

I love Tuscan Fields & Wine by Candlelight.

I wouldn't recommend using glue dots or hot glue. Sometimes I use high temp hot glue to secure wicks I am testing, mostly for tins and shallow containers, because it's easy to remove the glue and reuse the container. I would never recommend using hot glue for a candle you were going to sell. Under high heat it does become much less effective, and I've had numerous wicks come loose when the candle was low and had a FMP at the bottom. Use the stickems or the red permatex. I use the stickems because they are cheap and easy. I've never had one to fail.

I use 6006, which I believe is roughly 70% paraffin, 30% soy (not sure) and the medium size work pretty well for my containers that are 3" in diameter. You can trim them pretty easily with an exacto knife. That's what I used. It was easy to trim off a sliver if the wick was just a tad too big. It was harder for me when I needed a slightly larger wick and had to trim a bigger piece off the large size wicks. That was harder to trim consistently. I didn't have any luck using two wicks back to back or any of the other configurations I've read about.

I wouldn't touch that with a ten foot pole. I don't find wood wicks to be unpredictable or difficult to work with. And just like other wick types, they will work better in some combos than others. Overall though, I'd say they are probably more versatile than a lot of other wick types available.

I should have added....I really like the wood wicks from TFC. They have always been consistent for me and the price is decent. XL is pretty big. What wax and container would you be using?

They seem to be just like other wicks as far as wicking up for heavy or spicy scents, down for lighter. My issue was that in my containers sometimes small was too small but medium was too big, and sometimes medium was too small but large was too big, etc. The sizes aren't incremental enough for me. I can work around that by using the larger wick and trimming it down, but I'm not confident that I could do that with accuracy every time, so I didn't consider it a viable option. I am probably just too picky about my wicking. What I did was just stick with the scents that worked perfectly without having to modify the wick. Out of about a dozen or more scents tested, I had about 6 that were a success, but then I kinda switched gears and stopped testing.

I've had decent luck with them in 6006, but it's a pretty fine line getting the wicking just right. I finally figured out that it is easier just to use them with FO's that work than to try to make it work by trimming slivers off the wick, which I could never be 100% consistent with anyway. So, I've got about 6 FO's that burn perfectly, and I stopped there. I use the wicks from TFC.

Very pretty! It reminds me of ribbon candy!

I wondered if it was just their DPG, because the reviews I was reading on NG's DPG suggest it might be better. But I don't know. If there is no specific reason to use DPG I'm perfectly fine with fractionated coc. oil. I have that on hand anyway, so no need to order anything. That's a win-win. Thank you!

I *thought* I was going to make fragrance oil for use in warmers by mixing FO with DPG. But I was just now on WSP website, and I saw this on the DPG product page: We have tested this product mixed 50/50 with a fragrance oil and found that the two products do not blend together. They will mix at the beginning but over time they will separate. For this reason our description states that the DPG does not mix with most oils. That being said, many people do still use DPG in oil warmers and potpourri. Would I be better off using another light oil as a carrier? If so, what would be appropriate? Thanks!

I'm so sorry for what you are going through. Sending much love, hugs and happy thoughts your way

If you don't mind saying, what scents were you looking replacements for?

I've wanted to try that scent. I've been looking for some type of peppermint, but I've had a hard time finding one with a strong throw. Please let us know what you think when you burn it. Your blend sounds lovely!

I don't do this kind of thing. About the most adventurous I get is chunk tarts and layers, but I do watch a lot of youtube videos...LOL. I have no idea really, and am just theorizing here, but I would think you could pour your "icing" about 10 degrees hotter than your original pour, and just pour it over the top, following the shape of the doughnut so it would drizzle down. The small pour pot or a measuring cup with a spout should work for the pouring part. And if I am completely misunderstanding what you are trying to do, please disregard my post. Good luck!

I use mostly 44z's. I have tried every 44, as well as 51's and 60's. Nothing reduces the dancing. Usually, the dancing is somewhat reduced with the smaller wicks. I've also tried CD 12, 14, 16 as well as various Premier wicks. They all dance a jig. All my wicks are pre-primed wicks from Peak or The Flaming Candle (CD & zinc) and Aztec (Premiers). I've never primed my own.

Hmmmm......the frog lids may work. I'll try to pick up one of those and see. If so, it would be a nice thing to offer, because they could be sold at a lower price point than the Yankee toppers. Thanks for the suggestions!

No, they even dance a jig in a closed oven. I only pour a little past the shoulders, so when the candle is new the flame starts in the neck of the jar. In a new candle, I get a brief few minutes (maybe 3) of a steady flame, but then she dances continuously throughout the life of the candle. I get a some improvement using status jars, but they aren't great either.

They are just lovely. I hate that they've given you such trouble, but they really are beautiful!

I guess I'm stuck with dancing flames then. I don't know why its bothering me now after all this time. I guess because I keep hearing/reading that it's supposed to be a problem. Thanks.

Oh my goodness, these dancing flames are driving me insane. I'm using 6006, 6% FO load, zinc wicks and mason jars. The flames dance constantly and pretty vigorously. I wick fairly cool, so the dancing flame doesn't result in a hot jar and I have no soot. I have tried CD wicks and Premiers in an effort to tame the flame, but they dance regardless. I can only assume it is the container. However, everything I read suggests that a dancing flame is the sign of an improperly wicked candle. Is there truth in that? And is there a cure for the dancing flame?

I used 1 oz PP for candles with 6006, and slightly less with the palm wax. For melts, I use 1.2 oz PP, all paraffin.

I heat mine in the oven on the warm setting.

Crafter's Choice products are excellent, in my (somewhat limited) experience. I have no experience with C&S, although I have filled a shopping cart with them several times. Just never pulled the trigger.

I use the bullseye method, and I use drinking straws cut to the appropriate length to thread the wick through. Works well and I've never felt the need to invest in a specific tool for the job. I also made a template for tins with a hole in the center. For those, I drop the template inside the tin, mark the center with a sharpie, and aim for the mark. I also use the stickems. I've bought them from Aztec, CS, Flaming, and who knows where else, and I've never had one to fail. For testing, I use hot glue because that's easier to remove from my jars.