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Seriously melts as fast as being in the presto. You don’t add a lot of water to bottom. No scorching etc. Try it

Expensive perfumes use more expensive aroma molecules, and also exclusive molecules. Some aroma molecules are held only with certain companies like Chanel. When you create a fragrance you have choice of ingredients like any thing else. You want a product to be 14.00 like the drugstore you have to use ingredients that will allow you to have that price point. Expensive fragrances use expensive ingredients, and also unusual ones. Too Sweet is the preferred most often in mainstream. You see this in fragrance oil companies selling bakery scents etc.

Our original CCN1 from Calwax! All Natural Coconut Wax blend of all natural coconut wax & other natural quality ingredients. This natural wax will hold up to 10% fragrance, has good hot & cold scent throw. The all natural coconut wax will adhere very well to the glass & burn very clean. Coconut wax is usually a bright white color & extremely soft & creamy.You may need to add a hardner to raise the melting point of this wax if you are in a warm tropical enviroment. We suggest adding 15% palm stearic acid. As with all natural products you will see a slight variance in color from batch to batch. Most Recommended pouring temps is around 150 F. We have found that adding 1 1/2 ounce of Beeswax per pound raises the melt point and makes a high quality candle. BECAUSE IT IS ALL NATURAL IT SOMETIMES HAS TO BE HEATED WITH HEAT GUN OR DOUBLE POURED. MOST OF TIME IT IS SINGLE POUR AND WORKS BEST POURED AT 170-180 WHEN COOLER AND 160-170 WHEN WARMER AND WEATHER IS HO

Suggestion for you. Clean your glass so it’s spotless. Pour and cool in a warm room. Some waxes are harder to work with if you want to avoid wet spots, some will totally shrink away from glass.

That’s a goner. Jeesh you would think someone actually tests wicks. Similar I purchased two candles from West Elm hipster brands. can I tell you both tunneled and burned so bad it was shocking!

You MUST have a warning label otherwise it’s a liability etc that you didn’t warn customer! Okay, hangtag or you can do a circle insert for top of candle. Add candle fragrance, and any other info. What’s the width? There are large hole punches you can use. Make a template and print card stock, punch out larger circle, then punch out smaller circle for wick. Why not put a label inside the jar top!! Open and surprise, if you want a super clean look. Bottom recommend warning labels and name of fragrance so you don’t have everyone opening up candles.

NO messing with spigot, or worrying about debris coating coming off from pot.

It’s not a hassle at all. I put about one inch of water with a trivet. Put my pouring pot in and “presto” melted wax, now dries with spigot or cleaning pot or debris from the coating coming off of presto. This was my idea after my nice expensive pot with spigot immediately starting having problems with coating coming off. i have different wax formulas, so it’s very easy to be melting different blends this way.

Oh no! I love that gardenia

I keep all the cardboard boxes for storage as well. Sheet trays are good too. I cool on bakers cooling racks.

I can see these being used in production as they could be accident preventative. Instead of a tray of candles sliding to the floor, you might only have a couple.

So best solution to shelf life is to purchase smaller amount and use up, rather than larger sitting around. rice bran oil is wonderful and silky just not great for longevity.

I looked at that gas. You can warm it up to 100 degrees which will help with the viscosity. This will help keep it more fluid to get into bottle. That formula contains rice bran oil which doesn’t have a super long shelf life so make sure you keep checking for rancidity. I am surprised they used that oil because of the shelf life. Try and use the base ASAP.

I think you. Need a piston pump if that base is that thick. As a consumer is it difficult to get out of your bottle?

Yes I like zip lock bags too for lotion

If you are filling tons of bottle you can get a professional filler that will help pump the thick lotion into bottles. Or get a thinner base.

Yes you can do simple three oil soap. I like sunflower oil as it has the same properties as olive oil but you won’t get the green tinge as you do with olive. People love the soap. Soap does not have to be complicated in formula to be great, and also it’s a rinse off product so I would rather be using the expensive oils and butters for lotions and creams.

Hmm. Here’s my take on curing. If the fragrance doesn’t take pretty much on the get go, it’s not worth spending an inordinate amount of time waiting for magic. I don’t think companies put candles on their shelves like they age wines, and then take out batch year 2017 to sell when ready. Some fragrances just are NOT going to be great in candles. It’s like soap making. Some fos work fantastic in cold process others are completely dead in the water after salonification.

Additionally I have a small metal grid thingy I put in the bottom of my presto with the water, to make a double boiler. This works amazingly great. You can make and pour in different pots super fast. As I am always testing it makes it easy to try different waxes etc.

The company mentioned there marks up all their prices about 500 percent. You can get the same type of candle fragrances from many of the candle company suppliers mentioned on this board. You can also buy the wax at other companies if you do a search. I believe they buy wax and mark it up and market it as a luxury wax. What I love with paraffin. It colors beautifully, doesn’t frost, burns wells. Soy can frost, dry out. You can create a paraffin candles that doesn’t soot like crazy, but they have to blended.

BTW the Wallie world shortening, and Bakerite are made from BEEF ANIMAL and is NOT vegetable. So no vegan veggie soap with that! You can create a simple three oil soap with castor oil for bubble 5 %, coconut oil 76, high oleic sunflower oil or olive oil. Play with the number on soap calc. This is from Brambleberry Basic Cold Process Recipe (Super fat 5%): 8 oz. Coconut Oil (24%) 15 oz. Olive Oil (44%) 11 oz. Palm Oil (32%) 4.8 oz. Lye 11.2 oz. Distilled Water This recipe is comprised of coconut oil, palm oil and olive oil. These three oils are some of the most common in soap making, and all offer something different to handmade soap. To learn more about properties of various common soap making oils, check out this blog post. Coconut and palm oil both give the soap firmness. Olive oil gives soap a mild and creamy lather. Coconut oil is very cleansing in nature, and gives the soap a large lather. A very common soaping recipe is 33% coconut oil, 34% olive oil and 33% palm oil. Some people feel that soap containing more than 25-30% coconut oil is drying. This is a personal preference, but this recipe was formulated to accommodate sensitive skins. The olive oil was increased to ensure the bars are gentle. This recipe contains a 5% superfat. This means that 5% of the oils in this recipe were not turned into soap, and are “free floating” in the soap. In other words, this recipe contains 5% less lye than necessary to turn 100% of the oils into soap. To learn more about formulating your cold process recipes, check out this blog post. The How to Substitute Oil in Cold Process Recipes also has some great information for formulating your own cold process recipes. Now, let’s get started making soap!

To learn soapmaking without spending a fortune, crisco is not a bad method. As you know learning can get costly. It’s all about access! The Walmart sounds good too if you are close to one otherwise you have to order. Yes also agreed milk, sugar, honey you will have issues with overheating so as a newbie avoid these additives. You can buy castor oil on eBay quart size, or places like Saveoncitric.

91 per cent alcohol. Use a spray bottle you can get in cosmetic area, versus the big ones like at Home Depot. Mist one pass, don’t soak. Stick with one recipe until you get comfortable with it. You will be able to what happens if you soap cooler or warmer, and what different fragrances do to 5e soap batter. Get fragrances that won’t cause you issues like soap on a stick!

Problems with volcanos with soap can happen with your formula. Too many hard oils. Stick to easy formula to learn at first then you can break the rules. from The Spruce Crafts Sandy Maine of SunFeather Natural Soap Company is the author of "The Soap Book." Her basic recipe for all the varieties of soap in her book is just three oils: 48 percent Crisco 25 percent olive oil 25 percent coconut oil That's right—no palm oil, no castor oil—just those three oils, and it's really very good soap. It doesn't have quite the heavy, creamy lather that adding castor oil gives. It's a lighter lather, but quite plentiful—perfectly respectable soap. It's a great recipe to get started with soap making because these oils should be readily available and make a good option for a grocery store soap. The Crisco, and the absence of castor oil, also make this a great recipe to learn how to swirl with—because it will be slow to come to trace. The formula for Crisco has changed since the early 2000s. It now incorporates a fair amount of hydrogenated palm oil, which is good for making soap. If you're using Crisco, be sure to know what kind you are using and and adjust your lye calculator accordingly. Most lye calculators have a setting for "old Crisco" and "new Crisco." If your label lists "hydrogenated palm oil" as one of the ingredients, use the "new Crisco" setting. The recipe below is formulated using "new Crisco."

You don’t need a lot of heat with that soap mold. I have same one. Using the light in oven should be fine. Another trick is I use a polypropylene cutting board for under those silicone molds then place on sheet pan inside oven. The polypropylene board retain heat so as soap heats up, the board does to and encourages gel. The soap bars in that mold are not thick so you should not have issue getting gel. When you soap the loaf molds more heat is handy as the soap is larger and thicker in those molds. in silicon make sure you use some sodium lactate, it makes the bars harder and easier to remove from molds.