M&P Recipes

[AlwaysWondering]

I feel like I'm hogging the board these past few days. I'm in a bit of panic. Made my first batch of MP with PA's recipe. I used a metal, non-stick bread/meatloaf pan. It's been cooling about 4 hours, will let it stay in the mold overnight. I have no idea how I'm going to get it out of the pan - HELP!!!! Do I put it in the freezer? Do I use a knife and cut around the edges? Put it in the oven and hope it melts around the edges and slides out? Was I suppose to do something to the pan before I poured the soap in?

[jeanie353]

Ok, I've read and read this thread because Im about to dive into making some MP. But the one thing I haven't seen, is........... temps.

Maybe someone will chime in who uses a thermometer (I will be doing so in the future) but what I did find is the first batch I poured (w/additives) had oils seeping out the bottom of the soaps. I put it back in the double boiler, remelted at a little higher temp, stirred well and they set up fine with no seeping.

The first time I melted just enough to get it all liquid, added the extras, stirred it together and poured. It needs to be a higher temp than "just melted".

[Candybee]

I feel like I'm hogging the board these past few days. I'm in a bit of panic. Made my first batch of MP with PA's recipe. I used a metal, non-stick bread/meatloaf pan. It's been cooling about 4 hours, will let it stay in the mold overnight. I have no idea how I'm going to get it out of the pan - HELP!!!! Do I put it in the freezer? Do I use a knife and cut around the edges? Put it in the oven and hope it melts around the edges and slides out? Was I suppose to do something to the pan before I poured the soap in?

Occasionally I use a metal bread loaf pan when I want a "loaf soap". I let it cool thoroughly and put it in the freezer for about 15 minutes. Then I turn the mold upside down and hit the bottom several times to loosen up the soap. It usually pops out after a couple of hard whacks.

[Candybee]

Ok, I've read and read this thread because Im about to dive into making some MP. But the one thing I haven't seen, is........... temps.

Melt temps, adding at temps, pour temps... ???

I do think I'll use the presto pot idea like PA does. I have a couple of extra ones I haven't opened or used yet so there wont be any cross contamination from wax.

Sorry for all the dumb questions I have. I do have some books coming this week and I have been reading the MP threads. Just was curious as to if there were certain temps specific to these receipes on this thread.

I use a rice cooker to heat my base. It heats the base to 185 degrees F. I have heated my base as high as 200 degrees F but don't recommend heating higher than 180-190. You want to heat your base in a range of 155 to 185 degrees F. I find this range is the best for complete melting and incorporating additives like honey and solid butters. Also, some molds have a recommended pouring temp so always follow them.

Also, I still use a microwave to heat small batches of 1-2 lbs of base. I used to heat the base in short bursts of 30-50 seconds but discovered that with my micro I can set it up to 1 or 2 minute heat intervals. But always test this out with your micro first. Not all micros and micro settings are the same. In any event, I always heat until the base is melted and the temp does not exceed 185.

Another temp to watch out for is mold pouring temp. I have several plastic Milky Way tray molds. They came with instructions to pour melted base in them at no higher than 145 degrees F. Not all molds have these requirements and you won't have to worry but some do so and if they do follow them. Your molds will last longer without them developing leaks or cracks from overheating them.

Edited January 9, 2012 by Candybee

[AlwaysWondering]

Occasionally I use a metal bread loaf pan when I want a "loaf soap". I let it cool thoroughly and put it in the freezer for about 15 minutes. Then I turn the mold upside down and hit the bottom several times to loosen up the soap. It usually pops out after a couple of hard whacks.

Thank you, again, very much.

[Ravens]

Sorry, I just saw your question about BB. The 10 lb. GM base I buy is this one:

http://www.brambleberry.com/Goats-Milk-Melt-And-Pour-P3184.aspx

[HorseScentS]

Sorry, I just saw your question about BB. The 10 lb. GM base I buy is this one:

http://www.brambleberry.com/Goats-Milk-Melt-And-Pour-P3184.aspx

Could you use this in PA's recipe and add even more GM to it? Would it work?

[Darbla]

After reading bazillions of notes on this site for the past few years, I put this together:

1# soap (EBC white)

1 T olive oil

Pinch of sugar

1/2 T liquid soap

If any of you have suggestions on how I could make that better, I would be all ears.

[Candybee]

Did you try it yet? Not sure why you are adding the liquid soap and sugar.

[Pam W]

Did you try it yet? Not sure why you are adding the liquid soap and sugar.

it was discussed/recommended a long time ago and I always add a squirt of liq soap and a pinch of sugar to DH's shave cream - it helps to add back some of the lather that was killed by adding add'l oils. ( Also add a pinch of Castor & glycerin)

When adding this stuff to my soap, I don't get much in the way of bubbles but the lather is damn near thick enough to frost a cake....and thick, creamy lather is what I want.

I did a search using 'pinch of sugar' and came up with a bunch of threads discussing adding all kinds of stuff.

http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?19147-What-are-you-adding-to-M-amp-P/page3&highlight=pinch+of+sugar

Edited January 15, 2012 by Pam W

[jeanie353]

it was discussed/recommended a long time ago and I always add a squirt of liq soap and a pinch of sugar to DH's shave cream - it helps to add back some of the lather that was killed by adding add'l oils.

Oh, good to know. Thanks for the tip. Note attached to desktop for next batch to try it.

[Pam W]

Could you use this in PA's recipe and add even more GM to it? Would it work?

Yes, you can. PA's recommended amt is 1/2c per 4# base. (found in a old thread)

Edited January 15, 2012 by Pam W

[Darbla]

Crap, I left off the goat's milk in my recipe above. I know I used it but I didn't write in my notes how much. I gave a friend some of it for Christmas a year ago and she loved it.

[Candybee]

I have tried adding sugar to my M&P and it kills lather. You have to be careful when adding sugar. You can get away with a "pinch" but thats about it. I found it didn't do anything for the soap so I quit using it.

If you want to add sugar try honey instead. Honey does lend moisturizing and acts as a humectant in M&P. It also won't kill the lather the way sugar will.

I realize some prefer to add liquid soap and or shaving soap to their base. I ask why because why would you do that if you already have a perfectly good base that lathers? Just saying its better to learn to work within the limitations of your base. If your base doesn't lather very well to begin with that you have to add liquid soap I would look for a better base. Same with one that doesn't take butters and oils very well as additives.

I used to use liquid soap myself so I know what you are saying. I quit using it as its an added expense that's not necessary. I make better soap without it because I chose to use good quality bases that don't need a lather boost.

Edited January 15, 2012 by Candybee

[Pam W]

A friend stopped by a couple of days ago & told me that her son used one of my soaps (made probably a year ago) and he was ooooing & awwwwing over the lather. I usually make M&P for personal use & some gifts so only smaller batches at a time - 1-2# and I don't even measure the additives anymore. I just eyeball it - a dash of castor, a pinch of sugar, a couple squirts of liq soap and here lately, a little babassu oil. Haven't added the GM because I use a GM base and am happy with the results but I was eyeballing a can of GM at the store recently.

Whether the sugar really adds anything to the soap or not, as long as I get good feedback on the lather, I'll keep doing what I do.

I've mentioned this before & will say it again - DH's razor blades last twice as long using the soap I make - don't have a clue as to why but do I really need to know why...nah! I made a couple bars of shaving soap yesterday using BB's CP Rebatch GM base & I'm anxious to see if the razor blades last as long as with the M&P.

[Candybee]

That is what is so great about working with M&P. Its so versatile and fun to work with.

[Going2Adopt]

just bumping this up to keep it on the first page of the M&P section.

[deb426]

just bumping this up to keep it on the first page of the M&P section.

Good idea. I'm just starting to play around with M&P and keep coming back to this thread as my "bible." I wish they'd make it a sticky.

[jackbenimble]

She means the SFIC bases. Brambleberry carries them.

About Soapers Choice bases at Columbus Foods. I've only read bad reviews about them. I was gonna try them at one point because of the price but others posted about their experience with them and it wasn't good.

EBC, Peaks, C&S, The Chemistry Store, Elements, WSP, and Brambleberry carry good bases but they are all different.

Brambleberry - SFIC and their own brand

Peaks & Elements - SFIC

The Chemistry Store - Stephensons

WSP - Crafters Choice (not to be confused with Soapers Choice)

EBC - they make their own

C&S - don't know what brand they use but its manufactured in Canada and is ultra sudsy!

I recently did a video that have not finished yet. I'm making PA's MP soap reciepe and it did well. Not oily at all. Very solid bars but no lather. I thought it was to many additives that killed the lather but I tested a picece of the main base and it has no lather either. This bases is SLS and from Camdem Grey. I wrote a review on their site about it. Hope they let it be posted.

It does take additives well but no lather at all :-(

[Candybee]

Did you add the liquid soap? PA's recipe adds a lot of additives in it. A lot more than I would recommend as most bases tend to work with a limit of 2 tbs of additives pp. That's why the liquid soap in her recipe is a must because it helps restore the lather. So its real important you don't skip this part.

I left a good recipe for goat milk and honey soap on page 2. Its the one I use all the time called Oatmeal, Milk, and Honey II. Just omit the oatmeal if you want a good basic soap recipe. Its close to what PA has but without all the excess additives. Its my best selling soap and I sell a ton of it!

Edited January 29, 2012 by Candybee

[jackbenimble]

Thanks Candybee! I may try that one.

I did follow PA's recipe to the T. I really think it was the base itself.

I just bought a base from C&S because of a post a while ago where you mentioned it was one of your favorites

Edited January 29, 2012 by jackbenimble

[Candybee]

Thats right! Out of all the bases I have tried C&S bases had the most lather. Plus they hold additives beautifully! But now they are just as expensive as the SFIC bases. M&P prices have just soared since when I first started making them. I guess that's what motivated me to go ahead and start doing CP. I plan to add it to my line of soap once I get down a couple of good recipes.

As for your base, haven't tried the ones from Camden Grey. Its possible it is simply your base. Thats why I think you should always cut off a piece of base and use it before making soap with it. That way you know the soaping qualities before you start. Some bases just don't lather very well while others lather like crazy. Also, some bases are great by themselves but won't take much in the way of additives. So its best to always test your base out first before adding anything to it.

[jeanie353]

Thanks Candybee! I may try that one.

I did follow PA's recipe to the T. I really think it was the base itself.

I just bought a base from C&S because of a post a while ago where you mentioned it was one of your favorites

I did PA's with SFIC purchased from Soap Goods. At first it had little to no suds and little to no lather. But found as the days/weeks went on it got more lather. No bubbles. Now after using and having bars sitting that have cured for about a month...maybe even longer now, I have lots of creamy lather. Could be the base or maybe even the curing?

@Candybee....am in the SFIC Co-Op and will be trying all your recipes with the new soap when it comes in. Am very excited especially for the M&H and the coconut milk one.

[jackbenimble]

@Candybee-- is there another ingredient I can sub for castor oil? I have all others except for that one.

[blacktieaffair]

Just to add my two cents to the suppliers base and lather/bubbles : When I made PA's receipe yesterday afternoon, we used Aztecs plain white base. I didnt think to test it first ( bad me ) but, luckily, as soon as it came out of the mold, we washed our hands and it went on a bubble / lather storm! I was so tickled. BF said this morning it was even better if that were possible. So, Im assuming, that Aztec's plain white base, holds PA's addatives great, and lathers up really good on it's on without the liquid soap, but, because of the receipe, and the extra addatives, we did add the liquid soap! It's not greasy at all ( it felt greasy to me when I took it out of the mold but its not this morning .. BF makes CP from fire ashes, and he has a bar made in a plastic mold... the soap I have was a fleur de lis in a silicone mold... so Im wondering if thats why it felt kinda greasy yesterday ( from the silicone mold )