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Candybee

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Everything posted by Candybee

  1. Do I need to list lanolin as a 'wool' allergen on my label? It is in the ingredients listing but do I also need to list it seperately and specifically as an allergen? And if so, where on the label do I put it? This will be for both my shaving soaps and bath oil.
  2. Rosewood or rose otto? I always thought the combo was a rose and vanilla type combo. Then I was looking at CS' description of their baby powder FO and it had notes of orange and 'powder' among others. So now I've been wonder what EO would make a powder note. Was hoping someone has tried duping a BP type using EOs.
  3. I was hoping to recreate a baby powder scent for homemade bath powder using EOs. I don't mean the lavender and chamomile type but the regular J&J original powder type scent. Not sure if its possible and where to start. Any ideas?
  4. I ordered the aloe 40x powder from Camden-Grey. While I am waiting yesterday I made a tester balm using some LIQUID aloe 10x I got from BB. Since its liquid its water soluble and made clumps in my balm Not good. So now I can't wait for the aloe powder. I also checked out WSP aloe 100x powder and theirs was just too expensive IMO. However, being 100x means I can save money by using a LOT less so it could actually save me money. Will have to crunch the numbers and see which will save me money.
  5. Fillmore has a Lavender, Sage and Rosemary that is wonderful. I always liked it better than CS' LCS. Its strong in my parasoy and palm wax. https://www.fillmorecontainer.com/lavender-sage-rosemary-fragrance-oil-25.html
  6. No... you have a link or a pic? Not sure I know what those are but they sound interesting.
  7. If you mean 2 ingredients with a rating of 1 wouldn't that come out as a rating of 1 for the product? But I think the amount of each and in combination of ingredients I don't have ratings for would just complicate it too much. Still.... it would be nice if you could get an approximate rating for a leave on product.
  8. Was just thinking about this and wondering if you can. If so, how would you go about it? List all the ratings for each ingredient and divide by the number of ingredients? I'm thinking more along the lines of leave-on type products and just got to wondering if you could approximate or determine the exact non-comodegenic rating for that product? I'm thinking now this is a stupid quest but I am curious.
  9. I looked at aloe extract and decided against it. The extracts can vary depending on the process its made and may or may not have alcohol in it. But all the extracts I found had water and glycerin while some had traces of alcohol and others without the alcohol were more expensive. With the powder forms I can get more concentrated aloe in my product without all the extra additives I don't want.
  10. I opted for the white aloe powder at CG. So now I will have both the organic and the white aloe powders to choose from.
  11. Thanks Nightlight for the recipe link. May use that for personal use. Since I am trying to go all natural with my balm I will have to use the aloe powder. No problem, have already tried it in my tester batch and it makes my skin feel oh so nice. I also checked out buying shealoe butter and coconut aloe butter and although they are nice, they are pricey considering I can save a lot by making my own. Since I will be selling the balm it is imperative that I choose ingredients that don't make the product price skyrocket. So when I use a water based recipe I will go with the aloe juice or gel. For my balms looks like I should stick with the aloe powder. Thanks for your research. It really helps me with my decision making.
  12. Thanks. WSP has a white one too that is 200x. I see both Camden-Grey and WSP have additives in them. I may end up using them anyway so its good to know another source. However, I am still trying to go with an aloe that is 100% organic without any additives. I have the organic aloe but its a brownish green and discolors my base. I may have to settle for a white aloe powder with additives if I want a white base. Don't think there is one without additives. Plus the decolorization process would use chemicals so I may be looking for a unicorn. Have to think on it a bit. Honestly, I doubt my customers would complain or say anything if I went with the white. But I would have to list the additional additives on my ingredients list and that is what is holding me back.
  13. Thanks. I tend to use more CO and less shea in a balm since shea has a habit of granulating. But I have other ingredients in my balm to help keep the shea smooth. I have an organic aloe vera powder but it is a brownish green and turned my balm a tan color. That's why I was wondering if I could sub the aloe gel. I do not want to use a preservative so wondering, can I sub the gel? and if I do what % can I use so I won't need a preservative? Or is the gel only good with a preservative at any %? I guess I could go with a tannish colored balm but really want one thats cream, white, or even off white. I looked into other aloe powders and haven't found a 'white' one yet, or at least not one that is additive or chemical free.... yet.
  14. This may sound like a stupid question but how do I make my own shealoe or aloe butter? I want to make one with coconut oil and one with shea butter, or even a shea coconut aloe butter combo. Which aloe do I use? It will be for a balm so I want to avoid having to use a preservative. So I assume the aloe should be powder? But I would love to use aloe gel? I never made aloe butter so not sure exactly what method and type of aloe to use. Does the butter need to be melted first then the aloe whipped in with a mixer or stick blender? Some help please.
  15. Congrats on your soap sale! Re your pumpkin soap, that looks like ash to me.
  16. I use micas and oxides for color. But one of my favorite greens for soap is to add cucumber and avocado puree to my batter when I want to keep the color natural.
  17. I have been thinking of trying a matcha tea scent but didn't know where to get it. So I may try the one from WSP. BTW-- the Sparkling Green Tea from Essentials has faded in my CP soap during the cure. It's barely there so I have to move on to something else. So still looking for a green tea that sticks.
  18. I just got an email from Rain Shadow Labs about their hand sanitizer base that contains colloidal silver. I have also seen other hand sanitizers with it in it. So this got me to wondering if anyone uses it in their products and found it effective. I just started to research it because I am curious but at the same time skeptical of the claims.
  19. My mistake. I should not have assumed they were salt bars. Other than that, the other tips I posted may help you some.
  20. Did you use full water (liquid) in your recipe? I ran it through a soap calculator and get 5.32oz of water. So I would use that amount as my coconut milk. I always do salt bars using a full water calculation. Also, how much salt did you use? When I make a 40oz batch I use slightly less salt at 36-38oz or 90-95% salt to oil. A little bit less salt may keep the soap from crumbling. Also, I use individual molds or a mold with dividers so I don't have to worry about cutting the soap, just unmolding. If you don't have this kind of mold you may want to consider one for the future if you plan to make more salt bars, especially if you plan to sell. Personally, I never use 100% coconut oil for my salt bars. I use 80% coconut oil and the other 20% any oil or combo of oils I like. I typically use shea butter and almond oil. I like my bars to be a bit more moisturizing. 30% superfat is pretty high even for a 100% coconut soap. Like others have posted, I would have started out at 20% and adjusted from there if needed. For my 80% coconut oil recipe I use 12% superfat and the bars are super moisturizing. I also use coconut milk in my salt bars. But I split my liquid, half aloe juice, half coconut milk. I make the lye solution with the aloe juice and add the coconut milk directly into the batter even before I add the lye solution. There is no need to add any liquid to your batter at trace unless you are using a known accelerator. Eg., pine tar accelerates fast so I add it in just before pouring my batter into the mold.
  21. I've been ordering from them for years without a single hitch. Like all suppliers and shipping venues getting your supplies processed and shipped to you is much slower these days due to Covid-19. So just plan ahead and figure your wait time in when you need to purchase. Also keep in mind that many items such as aloe, sanitizer suplies, alcohol, witch hazel, etc, may have a limited supply, be out of stock, or you are only allowed a maximum of 1-2 per purchase. During normal times my products always came on time and were properly packaged. Nothing has ever arrived damaged or missing from any of my orders. Re their pricing, they ship many of their items free. Since we know shipping is not free I figure its included in the cost of the item. If you do comparison shopping with another supplier you may find that in the end WSP could save you money. For example if xyz supplier charges less for an item but with the shipping charges you could find that the item(s) purchased at WSP may save you money. I always have a backup supplier whenever possible. One reason is not simply for OOS items but comparison shopping. If the same item costs me less at another supplier than WSP I will order from the other one instead. There are several items I shop for in bulk and I save money on them by buying them from WSP instead of elsewhere. So my advice is to comparison shop and pay attention to shipping and processing times. This will save you a lot of headaches and money.
  22. Soaper's Choice for the oils I use. For us east coasters there is also Golden Barrel for bulk oil but mostly I use SC. For salt I buy mine locally in bulk at a health food store in town. Its sea salt from the Pacific. Another source for sea salt on the east coast is C&S. They carry sea salt in bulk quantities. I also use Camden-Grey a lot for clays, EOs, and other additives for soaping and B&B.
  23. Just my opinion but if this is a popular soap company they should not have soaps that produce colored lather. An experienced soaper has learned how to make soap with colors in just the right amounts to produce the desired soap color without the bleed. Sorry but to me this just smacks of amateur soapmaking. I would look elsewhere for my next soap order. Its true the soap should be okay even if it bleeds color in the lather. No way I would sell soap that did that. It takes some adjusting to fix the bleed and to me that is what a professional does. Color bleed or lather bleed from a "popular" soap company sounds lazy azz to me. JMO
  24. Actually, it sounds really nice, like something I may like. I may get a sample next time I shop at CS. Thanks. BTW, does it give your nose a buzz? 🤣
  25. I sell mostly at craft shows and farmer's markets so I make what my tables hold in my soap boxes. I do 2 tables for soap and B&B year round. Each table will hold 4 soap boxes with 3-4 different scents giving me a total of 16 soap scents. Then I have 2 double basket risers that also hold about 3-4 scents each giving me a total of anywhere between 8-16. I make about 34 different soaps. For B&B like lotions, balms, sprays, etc., I try to keep no more than 2-5 scents. Candles I make only during the fall and holiday season. I try to do just 12 scents but end up making as many as my table risers will hold. I do one full table of candles during the fall and holidays and typically carry about 16-20 scents.
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