M&P Recipes

[Candybee]

I started this thread because of all the requests I see for recipe help with their M&P soap making. M&P is very versatile and can make some wonderful soaps in a variety of ways. So I am hoping this may be a group effort in that if you have a tried and true recipe you would like to share you can post it here.

Hopefully we can get a sticky on this thread so we have our own recipe section for M&P.

Also, there is lots of great information in the archives for M&P if you like to do a little research. I am posting the link for a wonderful thread in the archives for M&P with pages of recipes:

http://www.candletech.com/archivedforum/.1395.html

[Candybee]

Lemon Sugar Scrub

1 lb white base

1 tbs fresh lemon zest

1 tbs honey

2 tsp lemon essential oil

yellow soap dye (optional)

Melt your base then add the honey and lemon essential oil and blend. Grate the rind of about 1/2 of a lemon (1 tbs) and add to base. You may add enough dye to make your base a nice lemon color. Blend thoroughly then allow the base to cool a bit. When base has cooled pour slowly into your mold. Let soap harden before demolding.

Tips/Notes: This is a refreshing and rejuvenating exfoliating soap. Lemon is a natural astringent and cleanser so this soap would be good for broken out skin on your face or body.

The lemon rind aides exfoilation and a deeper, gentle cleansing for smoothe healthy skin. The rind also adds texture and flecks of color to your soap.

You may add butters and/or oils for more moisturizing. Eg.; for extra moisturizing add 1-2 tsp of shea butter, olive oil, or cocoa butter to melted base.

To suspend the rind make sure you allow the base to cool before pouring into your mold. This may take some practice but is worth the effort!

Edited May 10, 2016 by Candybee

[Candybee]

Oatmeal, Milk, & Honey Soap

1 lb white base

1 tbs goats milk

1 tbs honey

1 tbs ground oatmeal

1 tbs Patchouli Honey (Elements) oil

Heat your base then add the goats milk, honey, and oatmeal to the base and blend thoroughly making sure you have no clumps. Then add your fragrance oil and blend into the base. Let base cool slightly before pouring into your mold. Let cool completely then demold your soap.

Tips/Notes: This is a very moisturizing and nutrient rich creamy soap. The goats milk adds a creamy texture and vitamin rich nutrients to your base. Honey is a natural skin softener while the oatmeal adds gentle exfoliation and is soothing to your skin. This is a great soap for sensitive or itchy skin.

The goats milk can be powdered, condensed, or fresh. If you are adding powdered be sure to reconstitute if first making sure there are no lumps.

Add the goats milk, honey, and oatmeal seperately. Blend in each one before adding the next ingredient. Adding each all at once can cause lumps in your melted base.

You can sub a OMH or any honey fragrance for the Patchouli Honey.

I use whole rolled oats and put them thru my food blender for a mixture of fine and course ground oatmeal. A quick blast in a blender will do the trick. For finer texture grind longer.

If you want the oatmeal suspended in the soap make sure you cool your base down per instructions before pouring into your mold.

 

NOTE: I prefer using Patchouli Honey FO in my soap. But any Oatmeal, Milk & Honey FO will do as long as its soap safe.

Edited May 10, 2016 by Candybee

[Candybee]

Creamy Shea Butter Soap

1 lb white base

1 tsp castor oil

2-3 tsp shea butter

1/2 tsp vegetable glycerin

2-3 tsp fragrance oil (optional)

Melt your base then add the shea butter and stir until melted in base. Then add the castor oil, vegetable glycerin, and fragrance oil and blend thoroughly. Pour into your mold then let base cool completely before demolding.

Tips/Notes: Shea butter adds wonderful emolliency and moisturizing to any soap. The castor oil adds an additional element of moisturizing and wonder creaminess to your lather. The glycerin aides moisture retention for your skin. This is a very moisturizing bar of soap that is gentle enough for any skin type.

You can save time by adding the shea butter in before you start melting your base.

[Candybee]

Creamy Coconut Milk Soap

1 lb white base

1 tbs canned coconut milk (from your grocers)

2 tsp 76 degree coconut oil

1 tsp castor oil

1/2 tsp vegetable glycerin

1 tbs coconut type fragrance oil

Melt your base then add the coconut oil and stir until melted. Then add the coconut milk, castor oil, vegetable glycerin, and fragrance. Blend thoroughly then pour into your mold. Let base cool completely before unmolding.

Tips/Notes: Coconut milk and coconut oil add rich moisturizing and a creamy texture to your soap. The castor oil adds additional creamy lather and emolliency to your soap. The glycerin will help your skin retain moisture. This is a creamy, luxurious, bar of soap thats super gentle and great for any skin type. Not good for someone with coconut allergy.

This is also wonderful with a coconut and peaches fragrance.

[Candybee]

Herbal Bamboo Amber Soap

1 lb white base

1/2 tsp Celestial Seasonings Honey Vanilla Chamomile tea

1 tsp coconut oil

1 tsp castor oil

2 tsp Himalayan Bamboo (CS) fragrance oil

1 tsp Asian Amber (CS) fragrance oil

1 drop brown liquid soap dye

1 drop green liquid soap dye

Melt your base and add your ingredients. Blend thoroughly then let base cool slightly. No need to wait for skin to form on top of cooling base. The tea will suspend naturally. Stir the base then pour slowly into your mold stirring as you pour to keep tea evenly distributed.

Tips/Notes: I open a tea bag and put the tea into a small bowl so I can measure out a 1/2 tsp. The coconut oil and castor oils are optional or you can sub for your own fav oils and butters. I like a creamy moisturizing soap so thats why I add them here for this recipe.

You can also sub dried chamomile or any other tea or dried herbs you like. I use Clestial Seasoning's Honey Vanilla Chamomile as I got the least amount of 'bleed' from this tea blend as compared to others. Tea can discolor your finished soap so if this happens you can simply remelt it and repour with no problems.

This is a refreshing soap with a touch of romance from the amber. Its one of my best sellers and everyone who smells the soap and says "ahhhhh". The herbs make a great selling point.

Edited March 13, 2010 by Candybee

[TheWickedWick]

Wow..what a great idea. I've always been afraid to do too much with my m&p. Your shea butter sounds great....with those ingredients added is the lather/bubbles compromised at all?

[Candybee]

That will of course depend on your base and you will have to test the recipe and make adjustments as needed. I am trying to post recipes in the amounts that should work for most bases. Unfortunately there are some bases that simply do not take oils and butters well.

If you find that adding the shea butter compromises the lather of your finished soap then cut the amount or try adding some shaving base or liquid soap like Dr. Bronners for additional lather.

I know others have posted here about having success with adding lather to their base by using the liquid soap or shaving base. Dr. Bronners you can get at most any store that sells liquid soap; drug stores, health food stores, etc. The shaving soap is a M&P base that can be purchased at a supplier who carries M&P bases.

[Candybee]

Pumice Foot Scrub Soap

1 lb white soap base

1 tbs WSP ground pumice:

http://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/ProductDetail.aspx?CatalogID=1&GroupID=505&CategoryID=8&ProductID=286&ProductName=Crafters+Choice%e2%84%a2+Pumice+Powder

1 tsp shea butter

1 tsp coconut oil

Melt base then add coconut oil and shea butter and stir into base until melted. Then add in the pumice base slowly while stirring to prevent lumps.

Tips/Notes: Ground pumice is a super exfolient and makes a great addition to your soap. I've posted the WSP link as they have the pumice if you can't find any. This soap can also be used by mechanics or gardeners to super clean tough dirt, grime, and grease off their hands and skin.

I've also added coconut oil and shea butter to the recipe for extra moisturizing and conditioning.

Edited March 13, 2010 by Candybee

[CandleMama6]

Oh Candybee, thank you so much!!! I just ordered a ton of M&P from the last co-op and then realized I had no idea what to do with any of it. I so appreciate your willingness to share these recipes and cannot wait to give them a try!! Quick question though, can you substitute another base for the white one??

:yay::yay:

Edited March 13, 2010 by CandleMama6
added

[Candybee]

Easy Creamy Goats Milk Soap

1 lb goat milk base

1 tsp castor oil

1/2 tsp vegetable glycerin

Melt base then add castor oil and glycerin. Blend thoroughly then pour into mold. Let cool completely before unmolding.

Tips/Notes: Goats milk is nutrient rich and lends a creaminess to your soap. The castor oil adds emolliency and creamy lather. Glycerin helps skin retain moisture.

If you don't have any goats milk base you can add your own goats milk to any white base. You can use powdered, canned, or fresh goats milk. If using powdered then reconstitute with distilled water before adding to your base. Start out with 1 tbs of goats milk then add more if you like. Goats milk bases are generally made using 5% GM powder.

[Candybee]

Lavender Flowers Soap

12.5 oz white base

1 lavender flower soap mold (Peaks):

http://www.peakcandle.com/products/Lavender-Flower-Soap-Mold__SM1071.aspx

1 tsp castor oil

1 tsp 76 degree coconut oil

2 tsp lavender fragrance oil

-or-

1 tsp lavender essential oil

1-2 drops liquid lavender soap dye

Melt soap base then add the coconut oil and stir until melted. Then add the castor oil, fragrance, and dye and blend thoroughly. Pour into lavender flower mold and cool. Cool completely before unmolding. Makes 3 lavender flower soaps.

Tips/Notes: This makes a decorative lavender soap thats both eye appealing and good for your skin. The coconut oil and castor oil make the soap moisturizing and the lather creamy.

The first pic is from Peaks showing what the finished soap looks like using their mold and embellished with soap paint. The second pic is some I made and packaged for sale with shrink wrap, gold foil label, and then put into a sheer lavender organza bag.

Edited March 13, 2010 by Candybee

[Candybee]

Oh Candybee, thank you so much!!! I just ordered a ton of M&P from the last co-op and then realized I had no idea what to do with any of it. I so appreciate your willingness to share these recipes and cannot wait to give them a try!! Quick question though, can you substitute another base for the white one??

:yay::yay:

Definitely! Feel free to sub any white base you like. I am using white for the base in many of my recipes to show how versatile it is and because I find it the cheapest to buy.

I will post some clear base recipes and also very specific base types too so you have an idea what to do with different bases.

[Candybee]

Honey Bee Soap

8 oz clear base

1 honey bee guest soap mold (Bramble Berry)

http://www.brambleberry.com/Guest-Bee-Mold-P3510.aspx

1 tbs honey (the darker the better)

1 tsp castor oil

1/2 tsp vegetable glycerin

1 tsp Bacci de Miele fragrance oil (SGS):

http://southerngardenscents.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=210

5 drops gold liquid soap dye

Melt the base and add the honey, castor oil, glycerin, fragrance and dye. Blend thoroughly then pour into soap mold. Let base cool completely before unmolding. Makes 5 1.75 oz guest sized soaps.

Tip/Notes: Honey is loaded with vitamins and is a natural skin softener. I use locally produced honey rather than commercial honey like Sue Bee. Locally produced has more added benefits than pasturized commercial brands. Don't worry, local apiaries strain and clean honey before bottling. Also, the darker the honey the more golden honey color.

I added castor oil for creamy lather and moisturizing. Glycerin helps skin retain moisture. You can sub any honey fragrance you like but I find the original Old Mill's Bacci de Miele (now sold at SGS) to be the best honey fragrance I have found so far.

This soap became a super seller for me. I love to put near a sink to wash my hands. It helps your hands stay soft and smoothe. This soap is great for any skin type and is naturally hypo allergenic.

 

NOTE: Since this was written Old Mill went out of business. A great sub for honey FO is Honey L'Occitane (type) at Elements, Bath & Body. EBB also carries Patchouli Honey FO which is my favorite.

Edited May 10, 2016 by Candybee

[Candybee]

Here's a pic of the honey soap from Bramble Berry's site. The mold used is to be at several other suppliers but now the only place I can find it is at BB.

Edited March 13, 2010 by Candybee

[Candybee]

Cherry Blossom Soap

22 oz white base

1 cherry blossom soap mold (BB):

http://www.brambleberry.com/Oriental-Cherry-Blossom-Heavy-Duty-P4001.aspx

1 tsp 76 degree coconut oil

1 tsp castor oil

2 tsp cherry blossom fragrance oil

2 drops red liquid dye

Melt base then add coconut oil and stir until melted. Then add remaining ingredients; castor oil, fragrance, and dye. Blend thoroughly then pour into soap mold. Let base cool completely before demolding. Makes 4 soaps approximately 5.5 oz soaps.

Tips/Notes: I added the coconut oil and castor oil to give the soap emolliency and creamy lather. You can sub any oils or butters you prefer. I use either Japanese Cherry Blossom (Fillmore Containers) or Cherry Blossom (SGS) fragrance. I like a tad more cherry so I mix in a little Cherry (C&S) fragrance too.

This soap is gentle and moisturizing and great for all skin types. I find little girls and boys fall in love with this soap.

Edited March 13, 2010 by Candybee

[Candybee]

Dragonfly Hemp Olive Blossom Soap

22 oz Hemp Oil soap base (Peaks or C&S)

1 dragonfly soap mold (BB):

http://www.brambleberry.com/Dragonfly-with-Cattails-Heavy-Duty-P4417.aspx

1 tsp castor oil

1 tsp coconut oil

1 tbs Olive Blossom (Elements/Flickers) fragrance oil

Melt base then add coconut oil and stir until melted. Then add castor oil and fragrance and blend thoroughly. Pour into dragonfly soap mold and let cool completely before demolding.

Tips/Notes: Hempseed oil has a lovely natural green color so you don't need any dyes. It contains essential fatty acids and linolenic acid that stimulates cell growth. In M&P soap it adds moisturizing for dry skin. I've also added coconut oil and castor oil for additional moisturizing and creamy lather.

You can find the base at Peaks and C&S. I'm sure other suppliers have it too. But the bases are very different so research them first before choosing. Or simply use a white base and add your own hemp seed oil. The hemp seed oil in these bases is added at 5%.

Its a great soap for dry skin and has lots of moisturizing and creamy lather. Also good for all skin types.

 

NOTE: Olive Blossom at EBB has since been discontinued. Use any olive scented type FO as a sub or one that would go along with the theme of the dragonfly and pale green color. An excellent sub would be EBB's Juniper Aloe FO.

Edited May 10, 2016 by Candybee

[Candybee]

M&P MOLDS CARE & SUPPLIES

Here are some suppliers that carry M&P molds:

Peaks www.peakcandle.com

Bramble Berry www.brambleberry.com

Mold Market www.milkywaymolds.com

Milky Way Mold www.moldmarket.com

Elements Bath and Body www.elementsbathandbody.com

Natures Bouquet www.naturesbouquet.com

Candles and Supplies www.candlesandsupplies.com

I will be discussing plastic molds designed for M&P soapmaking and not silicone or wooden type molds. These are what I primarily use for my M&P soapmaking and so I have been able to gather some knowledge from my years of using them and practical experience.

Many of the plastic molds are heat sensitive and bases should be poured around 135 degrees fahrenheit unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. The heavy duty molds like the dragonfly and cherry blossom are a bit more heat resistant and hold up better than the average plastic molds.

High heat will eventually result in cracks or breaks in the mold causing leakage. Another problem with leakage can occur when you bend the mold or force out a soap. Molds are designed for the soap to pretty much pop out so if it doesn't wait a while first. Then try again. I have ruined molds by forcing out soap that wasn't ready and pouring too hot.

M&P soap molds are easy to clean with soap and water and can be reused for many months or a few years if properly cleaned and maintained.

You can repair a plastic mold using electric tape. I have fixed molds by applying tape directly underneath the mold where the crack is. You can test where the crack is by filling the mold with water first and watching where it leaks out. For tougher cracks I have applied permanent glue like crazy glue then added the electric tape. I press the electric tape to the crack applying pressure. Hold for a minute or so then let dry. Then I retry the water test to make sure the crack is fixed. I have saved myself some money by repairing several molds.

Milky Way is a maker of M&P soap molds and has more information on their site. Some suppliers will send mold care and use information with your purchase but many don't.

P.S. You can also have custom molds made by Mold Market and some other mold makers. It can get pricey but its great company branding.

Another method of branding thats not too pricey is getting a soap stamp or customized stamp. I had mine made at Kangaroo Blue for about $50. I also have a couple of premade soap stamps that many M&P suppliers carry.

Edited March 13, 2010 by Candybee

[Candybee]

Cranberry Orange Spice Soap

1 lb white base

1 tsp 76 degree coconut oil

1 tsp castor oil

1 tsp shea butter (optional)

2-3 shakes ground cinnamon

2-3 shakes ground nutmeg

1 tsp Cranberry Marmalade (CS) fragrance oil

1 tsp Orange (C&S) fragrance oil

2-3 drops orange liquid soap dye

Melt base and then add the coconut oil and shea butter and stir until melted. Then add the castor oil, fragrance, dye, and ground spices and blend thoroughly. Pour into mold while stirring to keep spices dispersed evenly. Cool completely then unmold.

Tips/Notes: The spices add texture, exfoliation, and interesting specks of color. The butters and oils add moisturizing and creamy lather to your soap.

Edited March 13, 2010 by Candybee

[candledoll]

You are a doll!!! Thanks for these!

[Candybee]

Cocoa Butter Coffee Scrub Soap

1 lb white base

1 tbs coffee grounds (used but still fresh)

2 tsp cocoa butter

2 tsp cappuchino fragrance

Melt base and add coffee grounds, cocoa butter, and fragrance. Blend thoroughly and let cool until the top has formed a skin/film. Then stir base again and slowly pour into mold and continue stirring as you pour to keep coffee grounds suspended. Let base cool completely then unmold.

Tips/Notes: The cocoa butter adds a nice moisturizing to your soap and the coffee grounds give it exfoliation. Coffee will discolor the soap to brown so there is no need for soap dyes. For less color add less grounds.

If you don't have fresh coffee grounds take a tablespoon of coffee, put it in a coffee filter, and pour some water thru it. Then wait until all the water runs out and use the grounds in your base.

[Candybee]

Valentine Heart Rose Soap

Heart embeds ingredients:

2 oz white soap base

1 heart shaped embed soap mold (BB):

http://www.naturesbouquet.com/soap_molds_guest_size.htm

1 drop red liquid soap dye (non-bleeding type/TKB Trading has these dyes)

Soap recipe ingredients:

19 oz clear base

1 oval shaped soap mold (BB):

http://www.brambleberry.com/Oval-Heavy-Duty-P4547.aspx

1 drop pink liquid soap dye (optional)

1 tsp Rose Bouquet fragrance oil (Peaks or CS)

1 tsp Baby Powder or Vanilla fragrance (CS)

Prepare the embeds first. Melt the soap base and add dye. Blend thoroughly and pour into heart mold. You will be filling only 4 embeds and not the whole mold. Let base cool completely then unmold.

Next take your finished embeds and place one each into the 4 oval soap molds rounded side down. Next prepare your basic soap by melting the clear base and adding in your fragrance and dye. Then blend thoroughly and let cool slightly. Carefully pour the base into each mold to partially cover the heart embeds. Wait for the the base to cool a bit so it holds the embed in place. Then pour the rest of the base into the molds. Let cool completely then unmold. Makes 4 5.25 oz soaps.

Tips/Notes: I found that I had trouble getting the embeds to set without floating to the surface. Thats why I cool a small portion of the base in with the embeds to secure them better. You can also push them down with a toothpick as the base starts to cool and firm up.

This makes the cutest valentines day gift and they fit right into the standard soap boxes. Embellish with a pink or red ribbon.

Edited March 13, 2010 by Candybee

[Candybee]

Irish Clover & Aloe Tea Soap

1 lb Aloe Vera soap base

1 tsp castor oil

2 tsp Green Clover & Aloe (Peaks) fragrance oil

1 tsp tea fragrance (optional)

1/4 tsp green tea leaves (optional)

1-2 drops green

Melt base then add the castor oil, fragrance, tea leaves and dye. Blend thoroughly then pour into mold. Let cool completely then unmold.

Tips/Notes: I used to use Flickers Green Tea but Elements doesn't appear to be carrying this oil. however, they still carry the Red Tea which subs nicely. The tea really adds a refreshing element to the soap. I suggest that you brew the tea first saving the tea leaves in the bag. This will minimize any discoloration caused by the leaves.

This is such a refreshing spring soap I wanted to add it.

For an intersting look and texture add shredded green soap bits into the base just before you pour. You can make your own soap shreds from green dyed soap for this.

[samandkennasmom]

Oh Candybee...this is a awesome thread, I'm so happy and thankful you started it. I bought a ton of soap from EBC and really had no idea what different kinds of soaps to make with it. It's not the clear or white, guess I got the goat's milk but I hope I can use it with some of your recipes. Thankyou again for sharing with us, that's so very appreciated.

Hugs

Michele

[kyme1911]

I have been thinking about trying some M&P, this thread has me inspired. I love the look of these rustic looking bars... and was wondering if they are made with molds to look that way or are they cut then stamped? Any input would be appreciated. I just love the ancient look to them.

Kyme