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GW 464 Test Results Thread


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I am using 8 oz tins and the set up after burns look no where as nice as that!! I'm not sure what is up but I have gotten some pretty fugly set-ups after burning...I just hope customers don't care too much about that!

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I poured 2 more 464 tester candles Thursday. These probably we not the best containers to use, but they were all I had. 10 oz. glass 3.25" dia. House temp around 80^

Peaks Tuscan Nights 8.5%. Heated to 180. F/O at 175,

red color block. Poured 150.

Peaks Moonlight Path 8.5% Heated to 180. F/O at 175.

Violet color block. Poured 155.

Once my candles set up, I cool them in my Coleman cooler over night.

Both candles set up nice, no mottling. Both candles have frosting 1/3 up the candle from base. Kind of hard to see in pics. Tops looks smooth, light frosting around rim of Tuscan Nights and slight crystallization on Moonlight Path. Don't see any wet spots. Cold throw is very strong! Will burn candles in a couple days to test hot throw.

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My candles set up with smooth tops and I did NOT do anything special as far as heating hars or keeping warm. I dont want to be bothered with that when I have a few hundred candles to pour. After the 1st and later burns it didnt set up as smooth BUT it is soy and my customers know that it will look a little different and the ones that dont get a little info paper that tells them a little about the soy candle and its strange look. I word it like it is the candle talking to them..."Hi, I am a soy candle. I may look a little different than my paraffin neighbor but that is normal for me..." Seems to work well I have had no complaints.

Patricia

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Hi Everyone,:wave:

Last week I got 10# of the GW464 from Gateway. Chris called me today to see if I had a chance to test. After talkling to her and letting her know what the results were, I thought I better post my results because I need some help. Here is what I did..........

I heated the wax to 180, added FO @ 170, stirred with wisk for a couple of

minutes, stirred again right before pouring. Poured between 125 & 130.

Covered with cardboard box to cool down and set up. Let cure for 3 days.

I used three different jars.........(1) regular pint mason/FO 8% Coconut Lime

from JBN. So far I've used CD18, got a really big shroom and not a full melt pool after 3hr burn. I was going to try the 20 but decided on trying ECO 14.

About 2 hrs into burn had about 1/8 in melt pool with small shroom. After burning first time, tops set up with some craters but not that bad. I'm burning again right now and think I'm going to be able to wick down to a ECO 12.

(2) WM pint mason/FO 8% Farmers Market/JBN. So far tried HTP1212 and its not doing the job. I didn't want to go up to the 1312, they scare me:eek:

I thought I might try the 126, I believe somewhere I read that the 126 burned hotter.

(3) 16oz Keepsake/FO 8% Apple & Clover/JBN. Tried WI-785 & WI-793.

After 4hr. burn still had good amount of wax on sides of jar. Need to go

up to 795 or try another type wick. Any suggestions? Maybe I can't single

wick this jar.

I really like how this wax sets up. Cold throw is really good with good hot throw. If anyone has any suggestions for wicking for any of these jars, I

would greatly appreciate it. Wicking is my weakest point in all this testing,

I get really discouraged :sad2: thinking I should just stick with the wickless and

tarts. I did sneak in a wickless too and it smelled awesome.

One other thing I wanted to mention, my candle tops are sweating. When I first burned them Saturday it was pretty warm in here, but today when I burned them again, tops were sweating again and it was much cooler in here today. Anyone else have this problem? Thanks for any advice.

Kathy:)

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Quote from Kathy:

One other thing I wanted to mention, my candle tops are sweating. When I first burned them Saturday it was pretty warm in here, but today when I burned them again, tops were sweating again and it was much cooler in here today. Anyone else have this problem? Thanks for any advice. End of Quote.

Yes, I noticed quite a bit of sweating today also. I moved my crocks from the basement; much cooler down there, to my kitchen upstairs, and within an hour I had the sweating also. Anyone else experiencing sweating? If so, any suggestions how to stop it?

I too, have crater tops after burning, but my customers expect this look after burning. It is a soy thing!

Sorry I cannot help you yet with the wicking since I am still testing wicks myself.

Hey Jason! Any suggestions on how to stop the sweating? Also, you have had a week now...what is this surprise? Getting antsy here ;)

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I really like how this wax sets up. Cold throw is really good with good hot throw. If anyone has any suggestions for wicking for any of these jars, I

would greatly appreciate it. Wicking is my weakest point in all this testing,

I get really discouraged :sad2: thinking I should just stick with the wickless and

tarts. I did sneak in a wickless too and it smelled awesome.

One other thing I wanted to mention, my candle tops are sweating. When I first burned them Saturday it was pretty warm in here, but today when I burned them again, tops were sweating again and it was much cooler in here today. Anyone else have this problem? Thanks for any advice.

Kathy:)

The sweating may be due to the FO load. It seems that 8% would not be enough to cause sweating, but as far as the wicking goes, you may be able to knock the load down to 7% or 6% and the single wicking may work. I know for sure that you will come closer to single wicking those if you use the Premier 700 wicks. I suspect the Apples N Clover is a pretty heavy FO. I am having good luck (so far) with a single 777 in a 16 oz keepsake with 464 and 9% load Peak's Home for the Holidays, but I'm getting big mushroom. Probably should drop FO load a bit.

I know the wicking can get real frustrating. I'm really liking the Premier 700 wicks, and you should get better results with them too. Keep up the good work! :yay:

geek

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Hi all, :)

Thought I'd jump in on this result thread for the 464. I received my sample yesterday and poured this afternoon (wanted to pour them as soon as the UPS man brought it, but we were unfortunately busy with other stuff :) )

I did two batches - one with straight 464. I followed the directions that were on the bag - heat to 180, add color (a small piece of a rust color block), FO (Sweet Potato Spice from Ky) etc. and poured around 130 in a 16 oz Mason Jar with a 60C wick. I will post a pic of the way the candle looked right after it set up, and right after I hit it with the heatgun. :) So far NO frosting!!!!!! No wet spots yet either!!!! Very minor sinkholes I zapped with the heatgun...the tops look cottage-cheesy after I hit them with the heatgun...but that is the nature of soy. :) I will see tomorrow how she looks. :)

For my second blend I just used 14 oz of 464 with the other 2 oz being my beeswax and other natural additive. I didn't take a pic of that but it came out really pretty. It had sinkholes, but nothing the heatgun didn't fix. :) And how much faster the sinkholes were repaired - I normally need to hit them 2-4 times - these I hit ONCE and it fixed them perfectly! I notice this wax seems to melt faster than my Ky125 soy. :)

I cannot wait to burn these puppies tomorrow. :) :)

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The sweating may be due to the FO load. It seems that 8% would not be enough to cause sweating, but as far as the wicking goes, you may be able to knock the load down to 7% or 6% and the single wicking may work. I know for sure that you will come closer to single wicking those if you use the Premier 700 wicks. I suspect the Apples N Clover is a pretty heavy FO. I am having good luck (so far) with a single 777 in a 16 oz keepsake with 464 and 9% load Peak's Home for the Holidays, but I'm getting big mushroom. Probably should drop FO load a bit.

I know the wicking can get real frustrating. I'm really liking the Premier 700 wicks, and you should get better results with them too. Keep up the good work! :yay:

geek

Hi,, at first I was not to sure about the 700 series and actually didnt like them BUT the more I test the more I like these because I CAN use 1 wick instead of 2, I have been testing the new FO from Snowtop,,,Orange Blossoms AWESOME COLD/HOT throw with the 464 and I have a W1-777,,,so far it looks great,,,I will try to get my pics uploaded. Jason,, this is some AWESOME wax!!!!

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Hello

I'm wondering if I can still use the 1212 that I have been using and now use them for the 464 in the pint mason jar or should I try wicking down to the 126?

What are your guys thoughts on this?

Thanks,

Rhonda

I would try the 1212 first,,,I also tested the 1312 and it worked well with the 464 if you look through the thread here at my posts,,,,I am testing the new 700 premier series and starting to love it!!! Just give it a go and see how it works,,,,HTH

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I am loving this wax! It sets up beautifully. :) I am finding too that I can wick down with this wax. :)

I test burned my straight 464 with the 60 Cotton wick and one with the 62 Cotton wick and the 62C is too big - the 60 is fine if trimmed shorted than I normally trim my wick for its initial burn. The cold/hot throws are fantastic. :)

I also made two more this morning - one with beeswax added, 7 oz 464 + 1 oz BW, little piece of spiced red color block, 3/4 oz FO - Carrot Cake from BC - yeah I know an odd colored Carrot Cake color - but I am testing with a scent I know throws WELL for me in my normal blend and a color that normally frosts really bad in my normal blend - and it frosted like mad...so, I will either add just 1/2 oz beeswax or omit the beeswax altogether.

I also did one with 7 oz 464/1 oz Crisco, little piece of spiced red color block, 3/4 oz FO - Carrot Cake from BC. It is beautiful. I made a DARK red and so far - not one speck of frost!!!!!! :yay:

I will attach some pictures. :) I am loving this wax so far. :)

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Hi Jason,

received my wax sample form Gateway and I'm a little unsure of melting temp.

On the bag it says pour at 175-180 and that's what most people are pouring at here, but when we talked on the phone I wrote down that you said "melt to 150 & pour" of course adding everything you need to first and then pour. This wax takes forever to solidify and I'd rather heat to 150 to cut down on my time of waiting to pour.

Will that work out ok?

Thank you,

Rhonda

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Okay this is what Jason posted regarding this wax and beeswax in the thread where he offered the 464 samples.

OK- I have sent out all the samples. Thank you to everyone for your interest. This blend is 98% soy with 2% soy additive pre blended to the wax. Anyone who uses the soy additive will love this wax becasue it is pre-added. As a rule of thumb, beeswax does not blend well with the soy additive. I would stay away from this. Pour wax around 125-135.

Jason

Maybe you should eliminate the beeswax since he states it does not blend well with the additive and may be causing your frosting issue.

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Hi Jason,

received my wax sample form Gateway and I'm a little unsure of melting temp.

On the bag it says pour at 175-180 and that's what most people are pouring at here, but when we talked on the phone I wrote down that you said "melt to 150 & pour" of course adding everything you need to first and then pour. This wax takes forever to solidify and I'd rather heat to 150 to cut down on my time of waiting to pour.

Will that work out ok?

Thank you,

Rhonda

If you are having issues with pouring at the higher temps, go with what Jason told you when you talked with him-- I did after I talked with him and the results are GREAT!!!!:yay:

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I tried three different temps so far. I poured at 135 it had sink holes. I poured another at 150 it looked great a smooth top didn't pull away from the wick. So I decided to try an push for 160. It set up beautiful except for a small sink hole. So now I am just taking a shot at 170 to be curious. The only great difficulty I am having is taking a heat gun to the 135 that had sink holes. It will not smooth out. I have tried and tried and it refuses. Its almost like the wax separates from the other vegetable oil it is mixed with causing cottage cheese. What do we do if a heat gun won't work? Do we remelt that whole container and repour it?

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Thanks Marilyn and Heather. :) I didn't see that other thread and I appreciate you letting me know. :)

Well if I decide to go with this wax out goes my beeswax. I really love adding beeswax as it does smooth those tops. Darn. ;) :undecided

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I tried three different temps so far. I poured at 135 it had sink holes. I poured another at 150 it looked great a smooth top didn't pull away from the wick. So I decided to try an push for 160. It set up beautiful except for a small sink hole. So now I am just taking a shot at 170 to be curious. The only great difficulty I am having is taking a heat gun to the 135 that had sink holes. It will not smooth out. I have tried and tried and it refuses. Its almost like the wax separates from the other vegetable oil it is mixed with causing cottage cheese. What do we do if a heat gun won't work? Do we remelt that whole container and repour it?

When I tried my last dab of 464 with some blue color, it frosted pretty bad. I then preheated my oven to 150, placed the candle in it and let it melt completely. Then I turned off the heat and let it cool completely in the oven. When it set up, it was very smooth on top and no frosting! I have burned it three times and only a little frosting is coming back, this level is acceptable to me. Another way of cooling would be to try pouring at 150, then place in a 150 degree preheated oven, turn off heat and let cool in the oven. It will take longer to cool but you may get better results and a lot less frosting on a colored candle

I have not had good luck with colors in this wax, except when cooling it in this manner. I'm still deciding if it's worth the effort and extra electric bill to do this. Otherwise I won't color candles using this wax.

geek

BTW this is an awesome thread!

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Geek,

You basicly temper the wax. Tempering will break down the crystal structure and always get rid of the frosting/blooming. YOu can use colors you never thought possible when you temper. To temper this wax do the following.

Bring temp to 125 and stir to melt all the wax. add scent and color

Drop temp to 100

raise temp to 115 (you may be able to pour at this point, if you still get frosting then)......

drop temp to 100 and pour.

jason

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Geek I totall agree with you. I tried all last night with the same color purple with four different temps. All frosted or some pitted. I cant use a heat gun. I was wondering if it was easier just using the 415 with beeswax. At least I can run a heat gun over it.

Jason I am so glad you chimed in because I was going to PM you anyway. I will try that for sure. I am having a horrible time with frosting and this wax. I got it to set up perfect at 150 but had horrible frosting. I have a whole line of Lone star liquid dyes I can't buy a whole new batch to accomodate this wax. It is a great wax but how can you correct mistakes?

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