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The Ones Who Keep The Lights On
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Everything posted by TallTayl

  1. If kept tightly sealed in a cool, dry environment clay should be ok as far as not “going bad”. Clay itself has come from the earth, but was cleaned in a lab for end use. I use different clays in pottery glazes and clay bodies that do mold if they get wet. In pottery we don’t care since the kiln kills everything organic during the different firings at up to 2,000*F for 12 hours, lol. For a face mask, I would be inclined to spread it on a tray in the oven and bake at 175+ *F for at least 30 minutes to kill any potential spores to be on the safe side. you can use clays on cold process soap with less fear since the lye should destroy any spores.
  2. So, so true. in my past corporate life I worked closely with the Human Factors department. Quickly learned that every accident is preventable and that usually the root cause of accidents is simple human error. it seems silly to me to risk my one and only set of eyes to a batch of soap. Even reading glasses are better than nothing.
  3. Thanks for the recommendation. I’m ok dropping it if I can’t find the original. The ones who love it KNOW when it’s not the original. I have tried 😩
  4. DO you mean it leaves a bit of a "shelf" after a burn? If so, this is usually how mine burn until around the 2/3-1/2 way point when everything starts to catch up.
  5. I thought I had an emergency stash of really old energy hidden away, but don't. A few customers and friends LOVE the old energy and are heartbroken to not have their favorite scent in soap & stuff any more. Anyone out there have the Energy Pre-reformulation from about 3+ years ago? The newer one is not even close to the original.
  6. Most real Candy corn (candy) smells like sweet vanilla to me. I’ve not smelled an FO that comes close. Worse the ones I’ve tried are hard to mix into my wax 🤬. A blend of a strong vanilla with a roasted marshmallow or cotton Candy often hits the mark.
  7. Welcome! My lovely grandmother used vaseline daily for all of her 93 years. Glowing youthful skin every day was her reward. I learned too late and have the crepe and wrinkles that need it now. It is the best at preventing TEWL in cold dry seasons. I trust pet jelly more than most home made “natural” concoctions. It is inert and will last on the shelf basically forever. What is not to love? curious to know what cream you replicated. (If you want to share the brand).
  8. 100% accurate. so many people don’t understand, or worse, disagree, until a cataclysmic preventable candle fire happens. test each candle combo from top to bottom before releasing new blends into the wild. Fragrances are different. And many fragrances are reformulated without any notice.
  9. I would not typically preserve that type of anhydrous formula. 🤗
  10. Welcome! Hot, humid climates are the most difficult to work with wax. The rate of cooling has so much to do with how a candle sets up after pouring. Internal crystal formation can play a big role in how candles burn and throw. If the candles cool too slowly, the crystals tend to be larger and can allow fragrance to gravitate toward the lower part of the candle. curing a soy candle before burning makes a huge difference in hot throw. If burning too soon the wick choice and burn will be misleading. crystal formation continues for weeks (and longer) in soy wax. 2 weeks is typical for a soy candle to show you how well it is wicked for HT. the planet Mars tops is just how soy wax is. Most people committed to soy wax just learn to live with it. if pouring for appearance in the jar (top and glass adhesion) don’t ignore what is inside, under the surface. Many burn issues stem from internal cavities that form during cool down that make wicks appear to not be sized correctly. pure coconut “wax” does not exist at this point in time. coconut wax blends begin with hydrogenated coconut oil (melt point of 92*F) then are amended with other waxes and additives to make it work as the manufacturer wishes in different combinations. Adding 10% coconut oil to 464 will be problematic in hot, humid climates. Some marketed coconut waxes are primarily soy with coconut oil added. You really need to dig in and figure out the mystery of each wax. The manufacturers are not very transparent about the products being sold. going the other direction with stearic acid will also make burn issues. Stearic acid narrows your wick choices as the has its own set of issues. Stearic acid is either animal source or palm source. Usually palm source. It is a fraction of palm oil. it can cause cracking with soy and is much harder to burn than most other waxes. Palm waxes are derived from many different fractions to form specific crystal patterns in the final candle. Small % in soy combined with the right wicks chemically treated to withstand the nature of the palm acidity can work. It takes time to figure out the magic combination. I suggest, instead either C1, which is a popular soy wax already combined with 20% of a palm wax, or C1 a soy wax with soy additives for your climate. I was never impressed with 464 and learned that marketing copy is a powerful thing. Both have similar Mars surface issues after burning since they are primarily soy. Both burn and throw better for me than 464 ever did, and withstood fluctuations in heat and humidity at outdoor events very well.
  11. Temp reading sort of depends on your particular thermometer and where in the pool the temp is taken. There’s a drastic difference with an IR thermometer fractions of an inch in any direction…
  12. For calculating, Will this thread help? As for temp, it does not seem to matter as much as how the wick moves air around and out of the container.
  13. Sounds like a fun, summery experiment. Let us know how it goes!
  14. Way back when i tried this type. Weren’t they called smelly jellies once upon a time? It worked, I guess, in that it made a scented blob that shrank as the water evaporated. It smelled in the direct vicinity, but not like a commercially made one. the commercially made ones have different fragrance “throwers” and components to help it evaporate in a controlled way to get into the air without shriveling up too fast. My observations of the fragrance component is that it’s like the plug ins that contain the methyl ethers. Or the reed bases that have volatile components that are easily carried by air. there’s nothing to lose trying these recipes out. They can be fun.
  15. When yo unsay “last longer” do you mean when applied to the skin, or in the product itself? Different answers for each. on the skin would need to blend base notes and fixatives to hold the scent longer. Glycerin, for example, can help slow the evaporation of volatile top notes. Base notes like patchouli will also help “anchor” some notes. for in the product, that signals to me a fragrance quality issue.
  16. I’m getting really full from eating all of the increases… Ave been doing so for years. It is time for more reformulations and price increases. Sigh.
  17. I had the same questions when making wax melts. Some of the melters I had were rather large, made of thick ceramic which took a lot of heat to melt the wax and release the scent. The distance from the lite to the bottom of the melting bowl was around 4” or so if I remember clearly. then I got one from Yankee that was made of much thinner ceramic, and the dish part was maybe 3” or so from the flame. That one got hot in a hurry and burned the wax in the bowl a bit with the tea lite I always used in the other one. then I bought the giant pack of tea lites from ikea. They would not melt the wax in either melter, and only burned for maybe 30 minutes from beginning to end. Long story short, yes there is a difference in heat thrown from different wax fuels. Some very simple paraffins can burn with a tiny zinc wick producing very little heat. Some soy tea lites need larger CD or ECO series wicks and produce significantly more heat. this makes both the tea lite and melt formulations more challenging. You need to predict which waxes work well in combination given the type of melter you have. good times…. Good times…
  18. Hi! Welcome, and great question. I would be inclined to drop a quick message to Stephenson to ask. They use phenoxyethanol which can be considered broad spectrum when combined with EDTA. I like reading Paula’s Choice articles when considering options: https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/preservatives/phenoxyethanol.html Phenoxyethanol is a stand alone preservative for many formulas when combined with EDTA (as this formulation seems to be). https://library.essentialwholesale.com/preserving-natural-cosmetics-with-phenoxyethanol-and-edta/ It can be combined with others, such as ethylhexyl glycerin (caprylyl glycol). Here’s one pre-combined to give you an idea of the intention of the combo. https://naturallythinking.com/phenoxyethanol-ethylhexylglycerin For others following along, if this is the one being compared to from WSP, you can see their choices of preservative at the end. Looks like Germall Plus to me. The formaldehyde donor turns a lot of people off from this preservative system.
  19. Hi! hot wax expands. The molecules swell and create pockets between the crystal grains to accept additives, like fragrance. As the liquified wax/additives cool the wax molecules shrink. Some waxes (most soys) are rather brittle and will crack as the wax crystals reach their final size. Customers want good glass adhesion, so the soy wax additives stick strongly to the glass, causing internal stress as the wax shrinks to its final size. Often if poured too warm the cracks are a symptom of sink holes/cavities of air under the surface and internal cracks. The wax has no choice but to draw air down the wick as the wick is the path of least resistance. Some wax blends, like IGI 4786, are rubbery and create deep wells on top that need a second pour. For all waxes, you need to find the balance between the pouring temp and your containers/room temp/humidity to prevent too much touch up to complete a safe candle.
  20. how log was that wax cured before lighting? a freshly poured (< 1 week) soy candle will leave less hang than a fully cured (generally 2+ week old ). soy generally completes the majority of crystallization within 2 weeks. A small % will continue to cure for several weeks to months depending on the soy wax blend. Eventually all popular soy I’ve ever used will dry out and turn grainy - typically at about a year. What are the proportions of the container? if the container is taller than wide that hang up is not “bad”. by the half way mark all hang up is generally caught up and a normal shallow pool will develop. Shallow containers (think 8 oz tins and tea light dimensions) might not be able to catch up as readily. Only test burning the entire candle will reveal how it will end. I would make another, cure appropriately and burn for the typical 3 hour cycles, allowing to cool completely between burns. This is where the wick selection becomes easier to decipher. If too underwicked it will create a definite wall that will have difficulty catching up. I use a powerburn just to ensure my “normal” final wick will not cause harm to people and their homes when they burn it. Often that “final people” are my own family 😅. wick testing services burn for a standard length of time, usually in a 70*F temp controlled space. Burn tests at home can be enlightening or misleading depending on the temp (and humidity) we keep our homes. It is not an exact science, but is sure useful! this is a nice baseline powerburn study. Well done. Keep going. It will change depending on the fragrance and fragrance % you use in the final candles. Some FO will make the wax practically melt immediately, others will remain largely like the unscented wax. It is maddening.
  21. I get the sense that the tallow candles people might use now are from the stearic acid component distilled from tallow. Plain old beef tallow has a beefy stink to it when fresh and can smell rancid if not cleaned well. The jug of tallow I use for shaving soap will melt rather easily, making a nice mess as it melts.
  22. I have loved quite a few from Daystar. Blood Orange patchouli is a staple blender for me. The ultimate vanilla is one of the best in soap and candles. For CP, a tiny little bittercreek vanilla stabilizer works well to keep from turning it deep brown without dulling the scent much. (Thanks @Jcandleattic and @Candybee for the suggestion to add a little to the soap oils before the FO to keep it from ruining the scent.
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