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The Ones Who Keep The Lights On
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Everything posted by TallTayl

  1. Is it truly tunneling, or simple hang up that is needed for tins that size? hang up cleans up around the half way point keeping the tin safe for the customer. The dimensions are difficult to get a decent safe burn. I would start with a CD 6 or 8 on those. If the wick is too big you will consume wax before the melt pool can form.
  2. pure fragrance oils.com has a service. $50 for up to 6 one ounce samples last I knew. The $50 is credited on your keg order. they have several perfumers who can take a shot at your one fragrance to see which makes your perfect match otherwise check google for local fragrance labs near you. Chances are there are several in your state. Freight is always a killer, so the shorter the distance the better. bescented on Facebook used to offer the service too. most labs have 25+lb mins.
  3. The only ones I’ve had go off were vanilla / vanillin types or brands that diluted with soy bean oil.
  4. You will need to conduct stability testing on your particular candles. Freezing temperatures can lead to shrinkage, cracking, and later condensation issues when the candle comes back to room temperature. Every wax formula contains different additives. Some, like pillar blends of soy, will split into pieces in the freezer. Some paraffins may do OK.
  5. Hello and welcome. wicking a tall container like that one is tricky. The heat builds up in the bottom half so you need to wick conservatively. the pic looks like it is double wicked with wooden wicks? If so, that is far too much wick for that wax and container. Once it reaches the half way point the temps will rise quickly leading potential wax fires and broken glass. Generally speaking we don’t double wick any container under 4” inner diameter. I wish the double-wick-everything trend didn’t catch on from the candle groups like on Facebook. 😢 The wax wall left from early burns catches up and melts away by the half way point. for coconut 83 I find CDN wicks work very well, followed by CD, and sometimes very small sized ECO. Sizing and series depends on the exact lot of coconut 83 wax, and the fragrance. Coco83 varies a lot from batch to batch. Sometimes new lot is absolutely nothing like the prior lot and needs completely different wicking.
  6. The very first thing to do with ANY wax is a baseline. What you're doing sounds like you are very close to that baseline. Baseline Process: 1) Choose one container and pour the wax with no adds at all. No vybar. No color. No scent. Nothing. Use this same size/shape/style of container for all future tests so you can compare apples to apples. Pour the candle wax using the manufacturer's directions. 2) allow to cure for a week at least. Check for hidden cavities under the surface. Check for other imperfections like cracks, divots, etc. Set the candle in different areas to test for heat issues like sweating, or cold areas for shrinking. This simulates different storage and shipping conditions. 3) Test burn to see what you have. Take very detailed notes as this will help troubleshoot any problems and narrow down the ideal process with this wax and container going forward so you can confidently make candles. Why do this? A baseline test lets you learn the wax with limited variables. You will instantly see if you have issues with future batches of that wax before you make candles and release them out into the wild where problems reveal themselves to customers. Those are expensive lessons! Since 2016 candle waxes have varies so much from lot to lot that it is like starting over every shipment. Knowing your wax, and understanding how to fix the shortcomings will save you loads of $$ and TIME. You will also instantly see when the wax formula is reformulated. the C# I used a decade ago is not the same C3 on the market ow. I used CDN 10 - CDN12 for a 3" wide container, 6% fragrance when I started and it was the easiest, most beautiful candle ever. Now since consumer demand calls for wax that safely holds 12% and up (yikes) the wax has more additives and is difficult to burn at all. This is the same story for C1, 464, 444, etc. The wax has had to compensate for diluted fragrances that meet customer cost per lb demands. Notes: I usually do not stick a wick in a baseline for a new candle, instead choosing to poke a hole when the candle is set so I can swap wicks as needed until I figure out the ideal wick. If the container is shallow, the wick will need a tab, though, so I generally start with a CD wick since I have thousands of them and know them really well. A Wickectomy will let me safely and quickly swap the tabbed wick if I chose the wrong one. Once you know your wax, make a scented version and compare the burn. Often you will need to wick up or down depending on the scent. Every combination of aromachemicals (technical term for fragrance whether essential oils, fragrance or a combo of both) will burn differently. Some combos make the wax melt very quickly. Others clog wicks and will need a different series altogether. the only way to know how your fragrance will burn is to test it. It does NOT matter if the fragrance is from the same retailer, they will still have the tendency to burn differently because of the chemicals needed to make that scent. I generally test all new lots of wax using the exact same bottle of fragrance at the same load %. Fragrances have been reformulated without notice for years. A favorite old standby might not be what it once was. I use something I don't mind smelling, and always have a LOT of the same lot number.
  7. C3 hardens/cures a lot over the weeks post-pour. It changes burn and melt behavior dramatically. I never got an accurate wick test with any soy before a min of a week. After a couple of months on the shelf all soy granulates and burns a bit different.
  8. Ooof bummer. I loved that wax,then coconut fever burned through our world and the price rose to be competitive with beeswax, and availability decreased to disastrous levels.
  9. Usually you can tell a pattern when you look at the crimp on the wick tab. The tab crimping machine feeds a wick yarn spool in one direction. Look at the tab to see which side has the dimple from the crimping machine. The “V” or upside down “V” will be on one side of the crimp or the other usually. Once you se the pattern on your wicks it should be easier than scraping the wax prime. Orient the tabs, then point the crimps in opposite directions and you should be set.
  10. I have that happen with some wick series depending on the wax and fragrance. eco will do that to me quite often with certain fragrances. I had to move to a different wick series to solve the problem on those.
  11. Oh boy those will be hard to source. All glass has been difficult to obtain for a year or so often with extremely long lead times if you manage to order some. Unusual glass is even moreso. might be a blessing, though, as those are really tricky to wick.
  12. Brambleberry once posted they use the tops for bar liquor. I would think that allows oxidation, but it might work. if you can find Yorker caps with the right thread those can provide some precise pours without too much mess. They come in twist or pop top.
  13. If stored well many of mine for a decade or more old. Those are like gold compared to what we can get now.
  14. Fragrance is made of combos of hundreds of different aroma chemicals. The retailer you buy from makes no difference as far as wick testing. They all may (and usually do) burn very differently. that eco 1 or 2 is a good starting point. I would get the sample packs of different wick series since the burn sometimes jumps a lot between sizes. Eco are beefy enough to handle hard thick waxes like 444. They tend to burn out then down which is convenient for tins.
  15. No kidding! Petrichor is a very distinct aroma. another is fresh hay. Not one fragrance sold as a hay smells anything remotely like hay. I have 8 tons of fresh hay stacked in my barn and wish I could find that smell for a candle or room spray. That, to me, is heavenly.
  16. Less is more. 5% by weight of mica to wax would be a LOT of mica! make a few small batches to see how they color. 25-30 grams of wax is enough to get a good idea. Then just scale up the math to see if it is even sensible from a cost perspective. i ended up just using liquid wax dyes that are made for wax. It ended up so much easier 🧟‍♀️ A little sparkle to highlight beat a LOt of mica to color.
  17. You have discovered the many things wax throws at us 🤗 you can probably make 444 work. Just know that the next batch of wax you get may perform very differently. likewise, each FO will need to be tested. All aromachemicals burn differently. You may want to try Helix wicks, cottonwood wicks and similar to single wick. when doublewicking closely I overlap the tabs and stick those to the container bottom. I know what you mean about the raised bottom. Doubling up wick stickers sometimes help bridge the gap.
  18. Flat braided wicks have 2 sides. If you look closely, one side has braid that looks like stacked letter “V”. The other side has upside down “V”. I call this side the mountain. The curl usually goes toward the upside down “V” (mountain) side.
  19. Hi and welcome to the super frustrating game of testing. first question (not sure how many will pop into my head as I type 😅), how long did you cure before you test burned? 444, and all soy and soy blends burn different when fresh versus after at least a 2 week cure. I had terrible inconsistencies with 444 wax. One lot would burn like a dream and the next would not burn no matter how big of a wick I used. I have up on it, especially in tins where the air convection and metal heat transfer properties just would not play well with the wax. 444 is a super hard wax loaded with “soy additive” to hold lots of fragrance for people who like to use 12%+ 😬. I found “diluting” those additives with a wax without the additives, like 415 or midwest soy, could help quite a bit. Likewise adding another wax, like a softer, lower melt point paraffin or coconut blend can help. The last commercial blend I relied on for tins was C1. Lot runs I received would often be a bit too hard to work with and burn, so I used 20% “naked soy” (midwest soy) and 5% coconut83 to solve the issues. Cd wicks nearly always did the trick for successful burns. if you want to stick with plain old 444 you may need to try double wicking. I hate doing that in small containers, but it sometimes is the only choice with difficult waxes. Two smaller wicks throw more heat than one larger wick, and consume less fuel. When you play with the different wick series you’ll find some that drown when slightly too small and some that thrive. ECO is a pretty hot, robust series that should handle the 444. Spacing the wicks closer or further away from each other changes the candle in dramatic ways. wide, flat wicks like cotton wood have promise too. The goal is to just widen the flame to get the melt going well in a wide, shallow container. wicks recommendations by CandleScience rarely made sense to me. I would test what they said and always have very different outcomes. They list what they sold, omitting many other potential successful wicks. the frustration was the tuition cost of the candle education 🤗
  20. You don’t want to use a cored wick like that zinc usually with coconut. They clog too much. Hemp wicks I found to be unreliable in any wax I’ve tried. For coconut wax I would move to a CDN because it can handle the acidic nature of natural waxes. Sometimes eco in very very small sizes do well. Sometimes CD. You have to play with your wick and your fragrance and your vessel and your particular lot of wax to come up with the right balance.
  21. I have the same problem with those kinds of waxes. Heat from a simple flame melts too much for the rate of consumption of the wick. It’s a very tricky balance. With those I typically add something harder to burn like a higher melt point paraffin, a Beeswax, castor wax, palm wax, sunflower wax, soy wax, you get the idea. Plus I drop down into different wick series like CDN. There’s absolutely no room for over wicking on those waxes. The choice of vessels is important too. If you have to multi wick a low melt point wax like that it’s just not worth it since two flames or three flames warm too much for the rate of consumption. A wide straight sided jar is preferable to any sort of neck
  22. The one I have from a year or so ago is mostly paraffin. Sticky paraffin. I read on a supplier Re reply to a customer smashing g this same question it is mostly paraffin with a smidge of coconut to market it as a “coconut wax”. it definitely needs blending to perform well.
  23. I would be inclined to box them. I have. It experienced gel melts and can’t predict how they handle changed to temp and bumping around in a normal shuffle of shipping. I usually ship an item to a friend on an extreme climate then have them ship back to me to test if my product can reasonably handle the chaos. Pricing I usually work 2 directions: step 1: total cost x at least 4 step 2: pick a target price and see if that allows me enough profit. not many of my prototypes make it to market simply because they don’t pan out to be profitable enough.
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