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Kevin Fischer

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Kevin Fischer last won the day on March 2

Kevin Fischer had the most liked content!

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About Kevin Fischer

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  • Birthday July 13

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    Reading, technology, business, and candle making


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  1. Generally speaking, a week should give you a decent look at whether the wick is going to work. Two weeks is better than one, but C-3 will evolve/harden forever. A few months and the wick that worked at 1-week might be too small at 3 months. Most of that behavior settles in the first two weeks (anecdotally, at least). Also comes down to "when" you're expecting your consumers to use them a bit, but I always wait two weeks. I kill time by pouring candles every day.
  2. I'd pay to see boiling points on the fragrance oils. I mean, I can do it myself but that's so much work. General volatility is tied up to the boiling point. I just don't know how complex fragrance oils are compared to essential oils that potentially contain hundreds of different compounds that evaporate at different rates. Essential oils suffer in the performance category mostly because of their volatility in the presence of candle making temperature ranges, but they also degrade from light and heat. Just go really interested in the EO/FO volatility discussion as things went along. No need to hijack this thread any further!
  3. The way you use the word "layer" makes me think you're talking about a second pour event, rather than sub-surface cratering, yes? As in, the top dips down like a bowl and you're filling that in to have a flat-topped candle?
  4. For sure. At that point we're probably discussing the effective volumes and a weird level of thermodynamic interpolation. Even if we answered it perfectly, it doesn't matter because flash points are irrelevant for candle making processes. Flashing off aromatic compounds is part of why wick sizing ends up being important (among other reasons) for generating a flame that works in harmony with the melt pool. An entirely different discussion of it's own.
  5. If you took the fragrance oil by itself and just cooked it at the flash point, it would indeed start giving off vapor that would harmlessly become a gas unless you lit it with a match. But, if you took your room temperature FO and mix it with liquid wax (which is much warmer), does the FO behave the same way as if it was by itself? I'm not a chemist, but I think the answer is most certainly no. The FO + wax is a new fluid with properties of its own, including an effective flash point much higher than our candle making range. My question was a dumb-but-honest attempt to have them explain a little more of the apparent pseudo-science. If you took fragrance oil that was giving off vapor and drowned it deep in the ocean, would those vapors even go anywhere, or would they be trapped in water?
  6. Yeah - frustrating that they won't follow up with critics in the comments. (source: am one of the critics in comments) 🤣
  7. @Forrest... dug this one out of the archives. I don't remember if you posted the results anywhere else but call me interested!
  8. Interestingly, I just did a lot of research into phthalates myself and left with an entirely different set of information than what I just assumed to be true. The only phthalate anyone in the fragrance oil game confesses to using is diethyl phthalate which... is cleared as non carcinogenic by a few authoritative places (WHO, CDC, European Commission, IFRA - though it's no surprise the IFRA isn't leading the charge to prove toxicity of fragrance ingredients). DEP isn't on the Prop 65 list either. Other phthalates are linked to health issues, but DEP isn't. When manufacturers made the shift to remove all phthalates awhile ago there was a noticeable change in performance and a heft impact on longstanding candle designs. What did you find in your fragrance oils that was on the Prop 65 list? - Me, 2 years later
  9. While being a perfectly respectful answer towards @colibri, it was an absolutely savage response to the general "natural" wax industry. I love it.
  10. I actually don't see why it wouldn't work, but the amount of wax you'd end up with in the candle would be much smaller unless you really pack it in. Doesn't scale super well either, but maybe it doesn't have to. Worth trying!
  11. Fantastic. I never even considered the cooling rate in the pour pot before despite my constant stirring. I'll give it a go - big thanks!
  12. @TallTayl - do you mean cooling prior to pouring or after it's poured? I always suspected grains like the ones below were tied to the ambient room temp and curing conditions. Using C3 yesterday I had a grainy top after it initially set, so I heat gunned the poor thing and put the lid on. Max temp: 185 (I didn't temper this in any way) Poured around 125, probably 20-25 minutes after max temp Ambient room temp was around 68 I think. Definitely no drafts. I probably heat gunned it 30-45 minutes after I poured (which I'm calling "Initial Set" below) Initial Set Heat Gunned Top Top after I removed the lid
  13. You'll probably get decent results with a 3 hour interval test, but it'll take you longer to finish the testing phase 😀 I've always done 4-hour all the way down (when things go well) and a long-burn of the same candle a few times... that one can be upwards of 10 hours or more.
  14. I guess it depends on the target audience. It's probably useful to segment "beginners" as it's own topic, but everything else by purpose. I'm of the opinion that a masterclass series focused on each type of candle (container, votive, pillar, tart, artsy) would be the entry point for everything besides beginner. Beginner is a series that I imagine covers a little of every topic in relative sequence. Using container candles as an example... Container Candles Series Lesson 1: Choosing Supplies Lesson 2: Craftsmanship Theory Lesson 3: Safety & Performance Testing Every lesson has articles and videos meant to be completed in any order (for that lesson) that review general recommendations by this community, why, and how to implement.
  15. Not to drastically change/hijack the subject, but you made me think. The "perfect candle" is such an interesting subject. In your intro you mention a variety of things... MP, throw strength, hangups. What we call perfect depends on context and goals. For my relative that wants to bake in FO? They probably don't care about anything more than the HT and scent (meanwhile their candle has mushrooms that would make the 60's jealous). Conversely, my fellow makers might care much more about melt pool characteristics and a long lasting burn life instead of optimizing the HT for an auditorium! And is it perfect for the customer, the maker, or the at-home crafter that "just wanted to be successful" at even making the darn thing? That's one of the things we should love about this trade/craft/muse.
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