Jcandleattic

I must be the odd one out. I don't use a thermometer. Haven't since probably my 3rd day in. Maybe sooner, who knows, I can't remember yesterday let alone 20 years ago! HA I also don't work with temperamental waxes that rely on a certain temp to be poured. I mean, I do use palm, but I set my presto to 205, melt and go. Never had a problem, so don't consider not having a thermometer a problem.

Did she pay money or goods for them? Then it COUNTS!! That is the general rule, however, after all the doubling, you need to make sure to include what you pay yourself. So many people forget to pay themselves, or think since they work for themselves, they shouldn't have a salary. That is UNTRUE. Would you work for free at a regular place of business? Of course not, so why work for free for yourself? (Not saying you do, just saying I know a lot of people that don't pay themselves and that's just not good business) HAHA I should have kept reading before answering above 1) No, I don't do that - what I do is keep track of my time, pay myself an hourly wage, and then AFTER the COG of the candle has been figured out, I add in the cost of my time, dividing it up in the amount of time for that particular batch. (I keep a spreadsheet with formulas that calculates everything so all I have to do is plug some numbers and hit enter and viola - done... ) 2) This will be better answered by someone else, as I only do 4 shows a year, 3 are at the same venue (Oct., Nov., & Dec) and 1 stand alone. They are all very similar so my pricing structure remains the same for all 4. 3) At my shows I sell at my full retail price. However, IMO if I were to sell at a flea market type of setting, I might be inclined to drop my prices by 10-15%, however, it would depend on the show, and what the feel was once I got there and saw what was happening around me. Hope this helps a little..

I would have simply told them that the information they were requesting was proprietary information and you were not willing or at liberty to discuss, then I would have said, thank you, have a nice day. End. of. discussion.

Never heard of it, so nope, sorry I haven't.

Either one would give you great results. Personally, I would go with a shimmering mica, and skip the glitter.

I'm confused as well. Votives are meant to be burned in votive containers, and not burned as little pillars. Sometimes I will pour a votive directly into the votive container and skip making them in a mold, but most of the time I make them in a votive mold. Can you be more specific about what it is exactly you are asking, so we can give you better advice?

Honestly, in my opinion, if you can't afford the time to test, you can't afford to make the candle. If you do not know how that candle will burn with an unknown wick (and I have found that most wick guides are generalizations and for the most part are not even close to being accurate) then how on earth are you going to know if you have a safe product? One that will not be too hot, and be a possible fire hazard. There is just no substitute for testing. Yes, other wicks will most likely absolutely work, but without testing, you aren't going to know. I have found that most places will never have tabbed wicking longer than 6", and in that case you need to find a place that sells spooled wick, and then, yep you guessed it, test that wick, because it will come unprimed where as most tabbed wicking comes pre-primed. So the 2 will possibly differ in how they burn due to that. Again, that's why everyone on this board and hopefully every candle forum there is, will stress the importance of testing. Not testing and putting out an inferior product not only hurts you and your sales, but everyone in the industry of homemade candles. I will now get off my "soap box" so to speak, and tell you that I know there is a wick comparison list somewhere (cannot remember where it is located though, so sorry) that compares different wicks that are compatible in size. If you can find that, then you'd be in better shape.

Love it. It would be a great Halloween candle. I make bleeding candles, and sometimes to overpours like that.

Oh, my bad. I just thought it meant you were looking for E super. LOL

ISO means "In search of" - I've never heard of E super.

I was real good and ordered nothing. LOL It is horrible being on a strictly self imposed budget.

I'm too cheap for FO's that pricey. I have a hard time even paying $25 a lb. LOL Can't imagine purchasing an $80 bottle.

a clear coat will help a little but, but if the candle is going to sit in the sun, or get sunlight on it, a uv stabilizer will help for a bit, but the color will eventually turn (if it's in sunlight)

LOL I used to get that way for the first of the season every year too. I don't know what or why it changed, but I think just my whole attitude about life changed about 10 years ago or so, and I just don't stress about much these days. It takes so much more to make me truly mad, stressed, upset,. etc., (I still get super irritated with people and situations, but never truly angry, and never to where it creeps into other areas of my life) In the long run, it's just not worth it. At all. You know the saying, Don't sweat the small stuff, and it's all small stuff? Yeah, that.... Not that I ever really took that saying to heart but it's honestly so true. It's all small stuff, and if it's not, it will work out one way or another no matter how you stress yourself.

Hand dipped or molded? I love dipping tapers. I've braided, flattened, twisted and grubbied tapers. They are so fun to work with and you can do so much when hand dipping.

@Trappeur Come on, you are a GENIUS when it comes to labels. I bet you could whip something like that up in your zazzle doings with no trouble at all!

Or better yet, blue ice tarts that look like chunked up crystals. And while you are making them, play "Crystal Blue Persuasion" really loud!! HAHAHA (don't get me started on BB - HANDS DOWN my all-time favorite series EVER,. Hands DOWN)

If it's not secured tightly, the wax going under the tab of the wick, up against the sticker could cause a problem. However, if it is secured tightly and the glue/sticky is heat resistant enough it should be fine. Are they from the same company, just a different size? I'd test them in a couple candles first just to make sure they are heat resistant enough. I've had some wikc stickers that aren't heat resistant enough and come loose and float when burned far enough down.

It's the best isn't it? I've been using mine with my soft wax for almost a decade now. It's awesome...

As others have said, a few hours in the freezer with the mold should be sufficient for making them cold, no need for an overnight stay unless you want to do them first thing in the morning and don't want to wait for them to cool down. I know others have said cooling your wax is not necessary, however, I do use cooled down wax. I don't know exactly the temp but it is right after is starts to solidify on the sides of my pour pot, but when scraping the sides, it melts right in again. Once it does that I know it's cool enough to get the affect I want. I also don't use a specific mottling wax. Normally I will use 1343 with a bit of stearic added (about a TBLS per pound) in or I will use my 4625 and once made usually can't tell by looking at them which wax I used and have to read my notes. You asked about unmolding also, and sometimes, if I pour too cool, then some of the wax won't shrink as much, and sometimes wax will stick to the mold, making it a little more difficult to remov, however, I have found that all that does is add to the rustic look, and then in turn makes me have to take extra care cleaning my molds instead of just wiping them down with a paper towel. I'll actually have to warm up the mold to melt the stuck-on wax. Yes, exactly.

My candles are 16 oz apothecary (using 16 oz wax, and .5-.7 oz fo) and 5 oz apothecary (pouring 4 at a time, each holding 5 oz wax and using .7 oz FO in 20 oz wax) I use many different types of fragrances from many different suppliers. Some straight OOB, many times in a blend or mixed. Like I said, unless it's a light scent to begin with they usually are strong and the 16 oz will fill my entire main level of my house, and the 5 oz will fill my kitchen, most of my front room, and a partial of my living room. (I text in the little area that connects my kitchen, front room, and mid-level living room) it will also ALWAYS collect at the top of my stairs, but all of the scents in my house collect there (candles, dinner, lawn when being mowed, etc. it's always a mingle of scents! LOL)

thank you. They were fun and frustrating all at the same time. LOL

Oh gosh, I made these sooo long ago I'm not sure if they were the same wax. I probably used a straight paraffin for the embeds. I know I warmed my glass to get the heart embeds to stick to the side, then the chunked cubes to help hold them there before doing my overpour. I put embeds on all 4 sides of the glass, and no, I didn't drizzle, (which is what makes me think I used a straight paraffin for the embeds) I just melted, scented, and poured like I normally would, however, I didn't pour down all in 1 spot, I did try to make sure all the embeds had overpour wax on them, but I didn't go slow or use cool wax or anything. There is one (didn't actually get that good of a pic of it) where the heart was slightly pulling away from the glass, and the pink wax got up in-between the embed and the glass. When that happens it doesn't look that pretty.

I meant to add, you have to add/attach the embeds up against the glass before pouring your over pour. As you can see, if you don't the overpour will seep and go inbetween the embed and the glass.

It's possible. I've done it, and I think there is a tutorial on candletech also. (same as where this tutorial is at) (not the best pic attached below but I did these a while ago)