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About LisaMW

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  1. Thanks, I thought the tape I tried would be strong enough to handle the heat, but I guess next time I'll have to get some HVAC tape.
  2. Has anyone ever used the rubber plugs to seal the mold hole. I usually cover the hole with a wick sticker and then cover the sticker with mold sealing clay. I don't generally have any problems. If there is a leak, it is typically a small leak that seals itself. Today I ran out of clay and tried mechanical duct tape. I ended up with a giant mess. Before I order more clay, I'm wondering if anyone has ever tried the rubber plugs? Do you trim the point down? How many times can you reuse them? Do you cover the plug with tape or clay for extra leak protection? When I order more mold sealing clay, that will be the only thing on my order. It's a small item compared to the shipping, so I was looking for thoughts on the plugs before I pace the order.
  3. I've been experimenting with these two wick types in my cbl 141 pillars and they both seem to have their flaws. So I was wondering if anybody has a preference for one over the other. I don't see either brand doing any self trimming. I've been using ply 27 and occasionally 30. I find that the flame seems large and that the melt pool doesn't seem to want to even out on the second burn. At this point I expect the first burn to be uneven because of the curve in the wick. With the LX wicks (18) I find the candle will even out after a few burns but on each burn I will get mushrooming on the wick. I am thinking that I will order LX 16 to see if that reduces the mushrooming but before I start order new wicks I wanted to get some opinions on if anyone has found one wick series to have less flaws or at least more tolerable flaws.
  4. Nope, pouring all layers at 185 didn't work. Bottom layer perfect top layers still a mess. Is it possible that 6% is too much fragrance oil or that I'm stirring the fragrance in enough before pouring? I don't have this problem with a single color candle so I wasn't thinking fragrance load. At this point I am primarily focused on cbl 141. I know that's not discussed as much as 4625 so I understand that some of you may not know how to troubleshoot this wax.
  5. I haven't tried pouring all three layers closer to 185. I was under the impression that each layer should be slightly hotter then the one before it. I do my final fill in the sink hole pour at 190. I've never tried going above that so I don't know what happens if you go too high. I will try keeping all the layers closer to 185 next time.
  6. Sorry, forgot to list the temps in my original post. First layer 175, second layer 180, third layer 185. I pour single color candles at 180 and don't have this rustic look issue.
  7. I've been trying to make layered candles and they keep coming out with the top two layers mottled or deformed in some way. The bottom layer always comes out perfect. I've tried heating the mold in an oven at 200 for 5 minutes. I've tried pouring my layers within 15-20 minutes of each other (as soon as I see the first layer start to solidify), and I've tried waiting a longer time 1 1/2 -2 hours for the first layer to harden. I just don't know any other tricks to try. Here is a photo of what I mean. The pink is 4625, and the orange is CBL 141 both at 6% fragrance. Side Note: My calculations on colorant seem to be off. That's why it looks like the candles are meant to be one color instead of three.
  8. This is the top of CW 141 with 6% fragrance and an LX20 wick, which is one size above candlewic's recommendations for this wax. The candle was burning for 4 hours. I have the same problem with 27 and 30 ply. I've tried burning a few candles a second time hoping they would even out, but no luck there. Before I spend a whole lot of money trying out different wicks, I was hoping someone would have a suggestion for what type of wick to try next. Would HTP or a square braid give a more even burn?
  9. Here are some photos of a candle I did with candlewic's 141. The top layer was poured around 175 and the middle and bottom layers were poured at 180. This wax isn't supposed to mottle and I used 6% fragrance in all three layers, so I don't know why the top layers don't look smooth like the bottom layer does. Another question I have is those bubbles as the candle is burning. Hopefully you can see what I mean in the picture. They are clearly were I poked the relief holes, so did I poke the hole too early, too late, did I not heat the second layer hot enough, or are those little air bubble normal for layered candle? Pam W I got your message. Thank you for taking the time to try to help a newbie like me.
  10. Here are some photos of my divots. I don't know that the angle really shows their depth. The Blue one is Candlewic 141 and the red one is igi 4625. The 141 came out a bit better and at this point I think that's as flat as I can get the bottoms. Both of these candles had two final pours. one about 3 1/2 hours after to the first to fill the sink holes, and then a top of pour about a half later. There were holes poked before each pour.
  11. I've been making pillar candles, some with igi 4625 others with 141, and I've mostly been using lx18 wicks. I've tried 27 ply on a few times with simular results. The lx 18 seems to have a smaller flame but they both seem to have a full melt pool by 2 hrs. I know these wicks are designed to curl and because of that it makes sense that one side of the pillar would melt before the other side, but I'm wondering if there is a wick that would give a more uniform melt? I'm sure this isn't all that important. I haven't had any overflow problems yet. It's really just something that I would find more visually appealing. I think I read somewhere about twisting the wick before you pour. Is that something that works? If so how tight of a twist?
  12. Good to know. Thank you.
  13. I'm still new to candle making and searching out the fragrances that I think I would like. I've had good luck and bad luck with that. I've been trying fragrances that are phthalate free. I noticed that Northwoods has a whole disclaimer on each of their fragrances saying that the fragrance in question is not on California's Prop 65 list of toxic chemicals. I don't notice other sites being so forth coming with that information. I think I've seen a few om candle science that they were updated to meet the requirements, but over all it doesn't seem to be a standard part of fragrance oil listings regardless of if it is or isn't prop 65 safe. So, my question is, is it important to find fragrances that comply or is it something that you don't worry about? The same question can be asked of wax. My two favorite supplier are the flaming candle and candlewick, and they don't seem to mention prop 65 anywhere. Candlewic has very little information on what's in their fragrances.
  14. Thank you, So far none of my layered candles have come out well, so I'm looking for any advice I can get. I didn't think to look in the tutorial section.
  15. Does any one know where to find a good tutorial on layered scented candle (same scent throughout)? I want to give layering a try but I'm curious how different the technique is compared to a single color candle. For instance do you still need to poke holes or are the layers small enough that relief holes wont make a difference? I'm currently assuming some relief holes are still necessary but how far down would you poke if using different colors? Also, what's the best way of separating out your wax, colors, and fragrance? I would think there are some layering techniques that are good for unscented candles that don't necessarily work for scented, and maybe others that wouldn't work for layering with different scents. I keep finding tutorials on unscented layered candles or jar candles with a single pour wax, so I'm wondering if there's any advice out there for scented layered pillars.
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