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LisaMW

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LisaMW last won the day on October 5 2022

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  1. I agree. definitely remember to cure. I let mine sit for a week before testing. I like Eco's in my smaller jars with taller jars I use Lx wicks.
  2. Thank you. I'll look into wickit.net. I've never tried premiers. I know they're popular, but I usually get my wicks from Candlewic or Bitter Creek and neither of them sell premiers. I'll look into them as well. Every wax I've ever tried (I'm partial to parasoys) I go through a few wick series and always end up back with lx. It's just always seems to work for me, so it's frustrating to see this one fragrance cause the wicks to struggle. I guess anyone whos ever tried to make a good candle has run into this problem at some point.
  3. Does anyone know where to get spooled eco. 75. Mostly I only see it in tealight height, and I found one place where I can get it in 6 inches. I'm trying to wick Blueberry Pie from Candlewic in an 8oz Status jar (2.5" diameter). I like lx wicks and use lx 14 in the 21oz status jars. I've been debating about Lx 10 or 8 for the 8oz jars. If that sounds small to you it's because I find that CBL130 from Candlewic needs to be wicked down quite a lot. Blueberry Pie seems to not like the smaller lx wicks. The flame seems to be struggling and if I wick up, I know I'll get a lot of smoke. get a lot of smoke with the cd and rrd wicks. I like the way eco.5 works in my tealights but eco 1 seems to get a big mushroom in the small status jar, though it does have a nice melt pool. I haven't tried htp yet. Thats next on my list, though I don't have any from after their manufacturing changed, so I don't know if I can trust the results I get. Any thoughts would be helpful
  4. Does anybody know if there is a wick smaller than an eco .5 for tealights. Usually the eco .5 works perfect for my tealights in Candlewic's 130 parasoy wax with 6% fragrance load. But I came across a fragrance (Plumeria by Bitter Creek) where the wick gets a large mushroom, the stem of the wick gets long, and the combination of the two causes the wick to fall over and I've a a little fire inside my aluminum tealights because of it. So happy I use aluminum and not plastic. Now I'm looking for a wick alternative. I use LX 16 and 14 wicks in my status jars with this wax, but I don't know that lx has a wick small enough for a tealight. Any suggestions?
  5. Those are great references. Thank you. Here's an article that talks about what GHS is and what the different hazards are GHS Labeling Requirements: The Definitive Guide [2021 Update] | Luminer. Everything that I've been coming across seems to indicate that hazardous chemicals are labeled for work force use, but that same labeling isn't required for consumer goods (at least not yet). I find it hard to believe that consumer product safety commission or OSHA hasn't created some kind of overriding rule or law that pertains all products made with a chemical element. If there is a law, it's really hard to find.
  6. I know that there are plenty of threads about warning labels, but I can't seem to find the answer that I'm looking for. I'm wondering about hazard pictograms. Some generic warning labels don't use any pictograms others use the exclamation mark. Alot of the SDS' that I have looked at place other symbols in their report such as the fish for environmental hazard or the man with the star on his chest for health hazard. Are those symbols also supposed to be on the warning label? My thought process is this even though there is no official overseer of the candle business, proper labeling for weight, business location, product identifying terminology, and contact info is still expected to be on the labels. Does that mean we should also be paying more attention to identifying potential hazardous chemicals our candles? Or do those hazard warnings apply more to when a chemical is in its original liquid form? I also have a similar question when it comes to The Right to Know Act. I live in New Jersey which often is listed on the the SDS under the Right to Know. I am under the impression that this is more for factory employees, but it is titled the Worker and Community Right to Know Act. Do any of you change your label based on your fragrance or do you just use a generic label fragrance?
  7. I've been using Problend 650. It's the only parasoy I've tried, and I've never used just soy, so I'm not sure if what I'm seeing is to be expected. When the candle is burning the wax under the melt pool looks like it is separating. I pour at 165 and let the candles cure for 3-4 days, should I be curing longer? The Flaming Candle's website say 24-48 hours. This look doesn't seem to have an impact on the scent throw. I'm still working on wicking and lighter scents don't seem to work well but my strong scents like cranberry woods seem to have a strong scent throw at 8% fragrance load. Here is a picture of the wax separating.
  8. I have a bunch of wicks ordered and little short candles is my plan. It sure is frustrating when a candle doesn't burn the way you expect I to.
  9. I've been trying to google search different size wicks and can't seem to find any small packs of the htp or eco. There seems to be a lot of square braided un-tabbed wicks out there. I'm not sure that that's what I'm looking for though. Really I'm not sure what I'm not sure what I'm looking for which is why I don't want to pay Candlewic's prices. I was hoping to find something similar to The Flaming Candles un-tabbed wick sizes and prices ($3.50 for 10 yards). I'll probably have to get the tabbed wicks. I'm really hoping the eco wicks will work. If anyone has ever tried PB 650 and has a wick suggestion that would be greatly appreciated. I'm very disappointed in the LX wicks that I usually use when working with paraffin wax. When I first started working with this wax and got no hot throw I thought because it was a parasoy blend it might need more fragrance so I bumped my fragrance load from 6% to 9% and the cold throw was very strong. It stood out sitting on my table with all the other candles that I've been making and testing, but when It was lit I got nothing out of it. 9% fragrance load (Magnolia in Bloom by NG) with no hot throw seems like a waste of both fragrance and wax. So I'm hoping a different wick will solve the problem.
  10. Does anyone know where I can get some sample or small wick spools of the HTP or ECO series? I'm trying to wick ProBlend 650 pillars and the LX wicks I usually use don't seem to have a hot throw. The only place I can seem to find either of them in spool for is Candlewic, and I would rather not buy a whole spool for something that may not work. I suppose I could by the pre-tabbed ones and chop off the tab.
  11. I just sent an email to Flaming candle asking a few questions about their products and got an answer back almost immediately. I thought I would share the answers as one of them perplexed me. My questions: 1. Is problend 450 your own blend or do other sellers sell it? 2. Do you provide safety data sheets for your waxes and fragrances? 3. Are your diamond dye chips the Reddig Glo chips? This is the response: Thank you for contacting us. Yes, ProBlend is made for us. It is 52% soy and 48% paraffin. We can get you MSD sheets for any product you need. Just email us the specific items you need them for. As for our dye chips, unfortunately we cannot disclose our manufacturers. They are little diamond shaped waxy pieces, though if that helps. Please, let us know if there is anything else we can help with. We are always glad to help where we can! I thought the answer to if problend was their own wax was interesting for 2 reasons. Ihave seen older post on this forum comparing Problend 450 to KY 143 as if it was the same or very similar. I've never used KY so I don't know. Also, I asked about 450 the pillar paraffin wax. The answer given seems to be about 650 the para-soy wax.
  12. Has anyone ever tried the production preblend pillar wax from Candles and Supplies? I've been having trouble with Candlewic's 141 seeping certain (typically floral) scents while burning. I really like the look of 141 and IGI 4625 just doesn't have that creamy look that 141 has. So I'm starting to look elsewhere. Does anyone know if Candles and Supplies wax is the same as Flaming Candles Pro-blend?
  13. So after weeks of learning to make candles and burning every candle I've made regardless of outward appearance, I finally came upon my first air pocket around the wick. It was in a votive, so I don't have a lot of wasted wax. I didn't notice anything different when I was making it. I made another votive at the same time with the same wax and it is burning perfect. Is there anyway to know that an air pocket is going to form? I always poke holes as I'm making the candles for the air to escape, and I didn't notice any shrinking beyond the norm. Is this something that you just have to hope for the best with? Or is there an indication that I may not have noticed that would have let me know that one votive was a dud while the other would preform just right?
  14. I have cut my wicks too short before, so maybe that's what I'm doing and just noticing the bad burn more when the candle has been trouble from the start. Also, sorry about the misspelled subject title. I started this thread when I was frustrated after looking at a tunneling candle. Clearly I forgot to spell check.
  15. I'm using candlewics 141. My house is always right around 70 degrees. I always pour at 175. I always wait 2 days before burning. At this point I'm convinced it has something to do with having to remelt the wax. I just can't think of any other change that would be happening to cause me to need a higher wick than I normally would.
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