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Sarah S

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Everything posted by Sarah S

  1. Candles: wax: palm 1 crystal container container: glass tumbler fo load: 6% wicking: CSN, standard size for jar cure: 2 weeks CT: moderate HT: moderate* *The throw was good, but not all that strong. The nature of the fragrance, I think. We decided it's better as soap, lol. Oh, but it does make AWESOME incense, especially if you're tired of the same old resin/woody/patch types.
  2. First off, I just want to say that I have never smelled the original from Lush, so I can not comment on whether this dupe is accurate or not. It does, however, smell just like the one from Nurture Soap, at a much lower price. Soap: cold process: 40% animal fat, 60% veggie fats, 30% lye solution fo load: 5% additives: kaolin clay, charcoal swirls notes: soaped about 90-100 degrees, no acceleration, no ricing CT: strong, no morphing, still strong after 6 months* WT: strong very very light discoloration, like a cream color * This is my oldest daughters "signature" scent. She loves it in her shampoo and conditioner, and her soap. She is 16, for reference. It is a little fruity, a little musky, clean without being too fresh or detergent like. Her friend swears she smells patchouli in it, but my nose can't detect it. It is a nice complex scent.
  3. That looks good! The HTPs struggle a bit in the acidic environment of palm wax, and as you noted, it needs a hot flame. How does the flame look while it’s burning? Tall and robust? Short and sad? How is the hot throw? Burn that to the bottom and I think you will be surprised! I took a few pics of my candles on fire to kind of give you a point of reference. Above is a pillar with an HTP 126. It’s a 3” pillar, and you can see it still has quite a shell even though it’s almost at the bottom. The shell was actually taller, but it broke off from some rough handling. 😳 The flame is pretty small and the HT is only so-so. I know the 1212 is going to be way too big, so I’m looking at a different wick series for this size pillar now. Here is a container, a 12oz Status jar. You can see in the top pic that there is a fairly thick shell, but you can also see the flame is a nice size, and the jar is warm to the touch at the top. The HT is good, and you can see from the side view that it still has a ways to go before it burns down to the bottom. Because the flame is nice and hot, the shell will start to melt down in the next couple burns, and the melt pool will stay shallow as the wick consumes the shell at an even rate. I think this wick is a good size (it’s a CSN 12). I could probably go up to a CSN 14 safely, if I was doing 3-4 hr burns, but I like to power burn on the weekends, so I wick for that. 😁 Now this one above is definitely under wicked. The flame is tiny, the shell is super thick, and the melt pool is already halfway down the jar. I know that there is no way the sides are going to melt down before the wick hits the bottom, and the HT is weak anyway. Because this is a short container, I’ll need to wick up to try to encourage the melt pool to spread. I think it’s likely that this container may not be appropriate for palm at all, as a bigger wick may choke itself out with too much fuel too quickly. We shall see! And this one above was was one of my first testers ever. You can see (since I labeled it, lol) that the top photo is 2 hrs into the 2nd burn. Look at that shell!! I would have said that this was under-wicked. But then take a look at the second pic. That’s the same candle after several 3-4 hr burns. Boy was that tumbler hot!! That container was another tricky one. I ended up wicking down, knowing that most people would burn it like a giant votive. The smaller containers are a beast to wick. If I revisit them, I’m going to look at HTPs instead of CSNs. So I hope that helped illustrate a little bit on the behavior of palm wax! It is totally unlike the other waxes, but once you have some experience with it, it’s easy to see when a wick isn’t working. And my experience has been that FO doesn’t affect it nearly as much as it does with other waxes, although I still always test for throw. I am in no way an expert, and tend to shoot myself in the foot by container-hopping, but that’s my .02, for what it’s worth! 😃
  4. Bitter Creek has them too, but I much prefer FC's customer service. I think Aztec sells them as well. I wish I could find some that fit Candlewic's 16oz FO bottles. I hate their tops, and I ALWAYS get drips and spills when I pour their FOs. Using the chopstick method helps a lot, but there's a certain amount of user error involved with that. 😂
  5. I like #1 and #4. They are elegant but still country, and the neutral background will look good with any style lid.
  6. Candles: wax: Palm 1 container FO load: 6% container: salsa jar wicking: standard, CSN cure: 2 weeks CT: moderate HT: moderate, very inviting* *My opinion, this is a candle fragrance that should be a little more subtle. As noted above, I like to blend this with a little extra honey for added sweetness, and it is perfect. I think it would also be fantastic blended with vanilla, or cinnamon, or all of the above together. 😁
  7. Soap: cold process: mix of animal fats (40%) and veggie fats (60%) fo load: 4% addatives: oatmeal and honey, of course! 😂😂 soaped about 90 degrees, full water, no acceleration (but I was aiming for a thick trace so YMMV) discolored to a dark tan morphing: no fading: still strong after about 6 months CT/WT: very good, not too strong considering the type *This is a great OMH. Not super heavy on the almonds, which I like. I added just a touch of honey FO (from BC), to exaggerate the honey notes and sweetness. Perfect. My hubby's favorite soap!
  8. Candles: wax: Palm 2 pillar fo load: 6% wick: cotton core cure:2 weeks CT: strong HT: very strong* melts: wax: Palm 2 pillar fo load:6% cure: 2 weeks CT: super strong HT: super strong* *Oh my *cough cough* this is very something, that's for sure!! If you like cologne types, this is strong, masculine, and phenomenal. And did I mention strong?? 😂 I am going to try it in CP soap next and see how it does!
  9. Sarah S

    Sugar Cookie

    Candles: wax: CBL 125 fo load: 7% addatives: none container: salsa jar wicks: HTP, wicked up one size cure: 1 week CT: faint HT: weak, kind of boring* wax: Palm 2 pillar fo load: 6% cure: 2 weeks wick: cotton core, it was a little too small CT: faint HT: weak, still boring* *Admittedly, the poor results in the palm wax could be due to my wick choice. But when this one didn't do well in the 125, I knew it wasn't because of anything I did. This isn't a bad FO, it smells nice and it does throw somewhat, but there are much better cookie FOs out there, IMO.
  10. Finally got this into wax! Candles: wax: CBL 125 fo load: 7% addatives: none container: straight sided storage jar, 4" diameter wicks: 2 HTPs, standard size for container cure: 1 week CT: faint HT: subtle, but lovely* *This is simply lovely in wax. The verbena stands out more than the Vanila, but the vanilla adds a creamy undertone that is warm and inviting without being "foody". This is definitely what I would consider to be an upscale candle fragrance, that throws well but is a soft background scent. I am so glad I poured myself a big container in this, it will be awesome for spring and summer.
  11. I just want to say how awesome it is! I am going to try to bang out a few more reviews this weekend. Boy, is it ever daunting when I think about the dozens and dozens of fragrances I have put into soaps, candles, lotions, perfumes, incense... I am trying to get one supplier done, then move on to another, and I'm skipping anything that didn't really stand out, but it's quite the list! I hope everyone can continue to contribute, it has been so helpful to have the reviews organized and detailed! Thank you @Paintguru and @TallTayl!
  12. Digging through old posts, I read that some people would "wreck" their Palm containers by stirring and poking through the crust as it cooled to eliminate the air bubbles. Seems like a lot of hassle to me. If you flip it so the bubbles form on the bottom, or even more toward the middle, as your candle burns the molten wax will naturally fill the cavities without you having to do a thing. As long as the bubbles aren't right at the top, it shouldn't be an issue. I love the CT from palm! I have a palm pillar scenting my bedroom as it cures. 😁 No flame needed, it smells amazing.
  13. It's beautiful Jenni! The fairy is a lovely touch! I would love to see how it looks on your product!
  14. Very cool! I especially love the drips!
  15. When I tested their Avobath, I got a fuel smell as well. Wonder if it's consistent with all their lemon formulations.
  16. I don't use soy, but I do use Candlewic's waxes. They are excellent quality, and their price can't be beat. While CW's phone and online customer services can be spotty (sometimes they are helpful, sometimes they are snarky), the guys at the warehouse are always super nice and accommodating when I go to pick up my orders. They have a good selection of soy and other veggie based waxes, and I like that they offer sample sizes. Again, not a C3 user, but it is popular here on the forum. A lot of people like it. And Filmore has excellent customer service, as well as some of the best prices on glass jars, and some top-notch FOs. So while I can't help you with the soy issue, I just wanted to let you know you can't go wrong with ordering from either company. I would suggest doing a search in this forum for "C3" and see what pops up, I know there have been a lot of recent conversations about it.
  17. Thats exactly what I have! It's a crystal pattern palm. The burn can be a little scary at first, to get a good throw you need a tall flame. And when you're used to the way container paraffin or soy spread, the melt pool behavior of the Palm can make you doubt you're wicking it right. But overall I felt like the learning curve was only a little steeper than paraffin. I'm way too impatient to use soy. 😂😂 Oh! Definitely give your candles a good two week cure! It vastly improves the HT!
  18. Yep! I tilt the candle on its side first to check for leaky spots, then flip it if it's good. If it's a little leaky I let sit a few minutes longer. Depending on the size of the candle and the ambient temp, it's an hour to two hours after I pour it. Other people might have a different method. 😁
  19. Don't add anything to it, it is fabulous on its own! 😁❤️ Which one did you get? I've only used the crystal Palm, so my experienced is based on that. It does tend to burn more like a pillar, in that it burns down and then out. It's a little tricky to wick because you want a hot wick for great throw, but it can easily cross the line into a super hot torch. Personally I aim for a full MP about halfway down the jar, or even 3/4 down, and the edges catch up great to clean the glass by the end of the burn. HTPs do ok with palm. Be prepared to wick up to get a good flame. Really, CSNs are the best wick to use with palm, but it sucks they are only sold by one supplier, and there are so few sizes. I know a few people use other wicks. I think it's @pcbrook who uses RRDs and likes them. @Jcandleattic uses something else I believe, but I can't remember what off the top of my head. CDNs? I've also used Premiers with some success, but like the HTPs, wicking up is crucial. Personally I get the best throw with CSNs, so that's what I use the most. I'm really glad I started experimenting with palm, thanks to @Candybee and @Jcandleattic! They inspired me! It is a beautiful wax, easy to use, and once I got the hang of wicking it, a great thrower!
  20. That could be any kind of soy. And what is the glaze? That is definitely not a soy wax. You are being much too vague. If you want help, please provide detailed info on your materials and how this product is supposed to be used.
  21. Looks to me like it was under wicked and had a blowout. ETA: It might have nothing to do with the wax, it might be a wicking problem, was what I meant by that. However, I am not familiar with that wax so I couldn't say for sure.
  22. I feel like that's a pretty crucial distinction. Loving the business side of it and starting from that direction is different than having a hobby that turns into a business because you feel like you HAVE to. I imagine your business would be successful selling other items, as you said, because of your view of it. I admire that motivation! It's always interesting to hear different viewpoints. Personally, I don't particularly like the business end, so I purposefully sell just enough to keep myself challenged to improve while keeping the stress level low. For sure, this is not paying my bills! 😆 This article made me think of my "real job" and the "love what you do" adage. I love working in the fitness industry, but it certainly isn't the dream job that people assume. I hear a lot of "you get paid to work out", "you get to help people be healthy", "it looks like so much fun", and that's all true... But I'm exhausted all the time, I have chronic joint issues and pain, I have to listen to people whine and complain all day long, I spend unpaid hours practicing chorey and researching... So being passionate about what you get paid to do doesn't automatically make it enjoyable all the time, or easy, or mean that you don't have days when you feel like quitting. Work is still work, no matter how much you love it.
  23. I've used the Champagne from WSP before and liked it. Re: lemon, I test every lemon scent carefully because they can develop a fuel smell when burning. My daughter loves lemon fragrances. I am not a fan, so she tests them for me. In her room, with her door shut.😂 I'll tell what I would do though, if I were leaning toward the champagne idea, I would try Vanilla Champagne from NG. I have not used it myself (it's on my list to try!), but a lot of people rave about it, including @Trappeur and @Forrest. IDK if NG is a supplier that you already use, but they have good quality oils, a huge selection, and good customer services. Oh yeah and good prices too! If you have enough time, I would suggest ordering some samples from the wedding themed collection, including the VC, and see what does well in your wax.
  24. Agreed. Also, if you are working with smaller batches (less than a pound), you will need to start with the higher temp since it will drop quickly once you get it off the heat.
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