birdcharm

Same here ... can't answer question, but those are really interesting!

I am as green as that sheet of paperboard with envy!

I don't use cyclomethicone -- I'm just not sure about the silicone aspect of it. However, I do mix Poly-20 with scent and use a nice little 2-oz. spray bottle I bought at Midwest Bottles. I don't know if that helps any. One thing I like about their bottles is that you cut the length of the tube yourself (I don't know if other suppliers are like that or not, maybe so), and if you leave it a bit longer so it curls slightly at the bottom of the bottle, it will spray until the end until the bottle is almost empty.

Thank you ... they were an experiment.

It never hurts to think of short cuts as long as it doesn't compromise the end product! But, I don't feel that the temperature has as much to do with curing as the duration of time does, as I don't think anything can take the place of time in the curing process. Your thought is a nice try though!

@ehatch1 And here I figured I was the only one who occasionally buys from Wellington. I know you have to be really careful, but some of their scents are quite nice. Candles for me are a passionate hobby that I like to share with others. I burn them only when the weather is cold, but I make them or learn more about the craft all the time. And, I also do test burns. Even if I'm not actively burning them (as in summer months), they are still around the house, with plans of upcoming gifts on my mind. My niece has told me she loves candles and that I can send her as many as I like, as often as I like.

Really nice ... this is the type of stuff that is lighting my fire to learn soap. I keep reading, studying, and one day, I'll jump in. I don't know why, but that mold looks like a doll-sized waterbed without the mattress and just the liner! Great color combo and nice marbling effect. I want to learn to make soap!!

Thank you @Moonstar ... yes, do try it! I think you'll enjoy the surprise. Just don't overwork the wax once the "sprinkles" are in it ... you might be tempted to swirl the depth of it around the jar, which you might do just a little in spirts, but if you do it too much you'll lose the effect. If you see a clump that isn't melting properly, just give it a little nudge and push it around a little, very gently. I use a poultry lacer (metal pick), a habit I picked up from making gel candles. As usual with candles, you won't know what you've created until it's cooled, as I'm sure you already know! Here are some other ones I did over the holidays (mixed up a fruitcake scent), I didn't intend for them to come out quite so yellow, but it suited the candle anyway. I used two different colors of flaky wax pieces (more pink than green - hint: must be unequal on those colors, otherwise when the candle burns, it can turn brown), I then did a second pour in a thin layer over grated pink and used a heat gun *very* briefly, which made the top coat pink. With a different scent, this color combo (not my favorite, but it's kind of growing on me) might be a nice springtime candle, maybe a sweet floral or strawberry-banana. You can't see it, but the bottoms are white and most of the inside was too, as I only added the yellow around the outside edge, but the wax was a bit too hot, so it made its way through much more; the other colors sat on top as I didn't add those for awhile.

All of the scents could be smelled when cold ... strawberry seemed to have the nicest HT, but the cherry was also nice; peppermint was a bit more subtle for some reason, but still nice. My oils are all from a combination of suppliers (i.e., custom mixes, you may pm me for recipes if you'd like, @Trappeur). As for getting the look I ended up with, @Moonstar, I started off by making little batches of highly colored wax; as the candles were cooling, I sprinkled little bits and flakes on top -- some melted, some sank, some just sat there, so I had to tempt them to sink, melt, or swirl by poking with a metal pick. It's quite variable as to how the various pieces are going to melt since the little bits are sized differently, and next time, I really need to see if I can make better notes as to the temperature of the wax as I'm adding the color. I can say that if the wax has cooled below the temperature to melt the added color, you can very quickly use a heat gun, you just need to be careful, if it gets too hot, you won't get the same look, as it will blend much more. I'll make more soon and take better notes!

I did the splotchy design on purpose, but as for the intensity or fading of the color, it did its own thing there. I used little pieces of colored soy wax that I placed on top after the candle cooled to under about 120dF. These were done for a friend, so there wasn't a label except for a safety label on the bottoms. I used a #2 square braid cotton; I probably could have gone just a little smaller in wick size, but there wasn't time to search for the absolute correct one; these worked nicely though. The smooth tops are thanks to you ... I was having a bit of issue with little bumps on the top when I was cooling to 125dF, so I up'd the temperature on the pour. The ones with natural colored tops got a very thin top pour. I also did some in a "cherry cream" that smelled like cherry ice cream. I'd like to do some of these in lavender some time, I think that might be pretty.

These are a few of the pink candles I've recently done ... mostly in Strawberry-Cream (combo of strawberry and creme brulee) and Peppermint-Vanilla. Used GW464 and advice found here regarding pouring at about 150dF.

Sponiebr ... all of this exactness has my head spinning!! I've got to say, I'm disappointed in you! You forgot to mention that the amount of scent, the wick, tab, and adhesive are going to displace some of the liquid wax volume.

I totally agree ... I've tried to duplicate Herbal Essence scent a few times and I just can't seem to get it right, but over time, I'll keep trying! I recall that wheat germ & honey too -- if I worked on that one, I might be able to get a bit close from some of the scents I've come to know.

I haven't had any frosting issues with it either -- I agree with Moonstar, it does seem to make for better top surfaces poured at about 150 degrees -- at that temperature, I rarely have to use a heat gun or do a top pour, unless my house is cold or there are other variables or issues.

I think most people by them pre-tabbed. When I first started making gel candles, I didn't know any better when I was new at it and I used pre-tabbed wicks, then I soon learned that the wax was clouding my gel (should have thought of that!), so I had to switch. Also, one time when I was straightening the wick with a light tug to make sure it was perfectly straight (since you can see the wick in gel candles, that's really important), I had one come out of the base simply with a light tug. That's when I decided that I needed to buy wick by the yard or spool and the tabs separately. It may not be a mechanical crimp, but it's a firm one; and, often the pre-tabbed wicks have little holes in the metal where the crimp is, which can allow wax to penetrate -- when you do it by hand, the metal is not punctured, which I think makes the crimping work better. Really, I prefer it, even now, as there is very little waste of wick. If I'm pouring a few containers, I can cut the wick at triple than what I require for the first one and after the first candle, use the "left over" for the second glass and the rest for the third (I cut just a bit extra so the last one has enough in order to grip with a holder on top of the glass while the wax is cooling.) Then, there's literally no wasted wick.

I bought these quite some time ago from a wick wholesaler ... I'm not sure if they are still in business or not, I'll have to find their info and get back to you soon.

I like the 10mm's, but I'm kind of wondering what the point is if they aren't crimped at the top of the sleeve or neck -- if they are secured tightly at that point, the candle always seems to go out right there -- at about 1/4" depth. The difference between a 6mm tab and a 10mm tab is about twice as much wax being left at the bottom of the jar with the taller sleeve, which certainly can't hurt where safety is concerned; but, a 6mm crimped tightly at the top is probably better than a 10mm crimped in the middle, (imo). Here's a pic of what my tabs look like when crimped at the top:

So, then they are crimped at about 5mm? The tall sleeve allows for crimping at 10mm, which, imo, is the safest way and you get the most benefit out of the taller sleeve. I do not believe the sleeve itself necessarily (or always) puts out the flame, but the crimping does.

I started using 10mm tabs in my gel candles years ago (when I was making those) and I mostly use those tabs, esp. for any candle I give to someone. I can let those burn to the bottom without thinking about it. For my personal candles, I still use a standard tab because I bought a large quantity of them before purchasing the 10mm's. I think a jar does get hotter if the flame somehow burns all the way down, which might be what happened in Glassyfishy's case. One of the things I put on my candle labels is to place the candle on a plate or non-flammable surface, away from any fabric or decorations.

The longer sleeve of the wick tab, crimped properly, will automatically put out the candle at about 1/4" every time, I do not believe there are any exceptions to this, as long as the wick is crimped properly at the edge of the sleeve where it meets the wick material. I use 10mm tabs for safety for all candles other than personal use and have tested them many times -- they always go out, the tightly secured metal at or near the 10mm mark puts the candle out. Please take a look at your wicks and tell us if they are crimped at the highest point possible. I use raw wicking and thread my own wick tabs, crimping at the edge and then again in the middle for an added safety measure. Do yours look like this? ... http://www.lonestarcandlesupply.com/products/candlewicks_eco-8--6-wick.html If so, I would start giving them an additional crimp at the highest point, because from what I'm seeing, they are not crimped right.

I would just like to add ... I'd probably melt 22.5 ounces of wax and use 1.75 ounces of scent, which would put it at about 8% scent, I think that's right.

Interesting, educational, and amusing thread all of you! I would just like to add that similar with what Trappeur has shared -- that it's better to melt/scent more than you may need -- always better than running short! You can figure out what to do with the excess (if any) later.

Okay, so for GW464, you can use 7-9% scent per pound ... that's just a little over an ounce per pound of wax. If you're going to need 1.5 pounds of wax for three candles, you can safely add 1.5 ounce of scent. If you haven't made candles before, I would start off making one for the first round, rather than three at once.

What is the diameter of the jars you'll be getting? For me, square jars are a bit tricky due to the corners. As to your question about the melts ... I'm not a tart/melt maker, but those do not use a container wax, which GW464 happens to be, so that won't work by itself. Regarding your thinking about the math ... with just a little more math, you can figure out your scent amount for three 8-oz. candles. But, I've got to go make dinner, so I'll either have to come back or someone who is good at quickly explaining the math for you may chime in! (In other words ... you will be melting enough wax to fill three 8-oz. candles, and add the proper amount of scent for that amount ... you will not be limited to melting wax in full pounds in order to figure out your scent amount.)

I went looking through my "wick info" notes -- oh, what a mess I have in there! But, I've gathered information on various wicks from various places as I continue on my own wicking adventure. In terms of HTP or CD ... just for basics, I thought I'd share some of the notes I've gathered, for whatever it's worth. Sorry ... I won't be posting the sources, as they're mixed. HTP Wicks - The American version of the "German Wick". HTP stands for High Temperature Paper. This wick is wax coated and is a cotton flat braid with a strand of paper braided into it for hotter burning. These are a rigid wick and are also self-trimming, thus reducing the carbon build-up common to the zinc core wicks. Used in jar candles, gels, votives and pillars. CD Wicks - These wicks have a flat braid that is rigid enough to be used in pillars as well as containers. The tip of the wicks bends while burning and practically becomes self-trimming. They are designed to reduced mushrooming (carbon build up), smoke and soot. This wick is good for both paraffin and vegetable waxes. ~~ One thing I have noticed, is that the CD wicks have a tendency to lean in one direction, which I don't care for, and I've heard others mention this as well. ~~ The other wick type I've been fooling with (besides my square braid cotton, which I still love even though some say they can droop), are LX and I have some Performa samples that I haven't touched, but I'm a bit curious about, so may try one day.