birdcharm

With paraffin wax, always best to use a double boiler. Yet, I've wondered a similar thought in regard to soy wax -- hydrogenated soy oil -- whenever a recipe calls for "melted shortening" for instance, I've typically melted it in a pan, not on a double boiler. It is a curious question that I've wondered about myself. A double boiler helps to distribute the heat, so it's definitely safer, but, why do I keep seeing people saying to melt soy flakes in the microwave? I would never think to melt wax in a microwave.

I think I may have found the link you're thinking of, I bumped it -- I read recently that The Candle Source has a good chocolate cake, can anyone second that opinion? It seems as though chocolate might be a good base for smores, but not as a top note, so a small amount of a good chocolate or fudge would probably be good.

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Sorry to hear about the troubles, Pamaroma -- just remember that everything in life is temporary. Your focus is what will guide you through your day, and what you have to give will take you away from your own issues that you will deal with or solve. Your nephew is lucky to have you and hopefully he is appreciative, but it's your strength that will help him the most, as he needs to take hold of his life and turn it around. I hope you get back to your candle endeavor soon, creativity often holds the answer to so many things because you are forced to flow with the moment. Life is short, don't let it waste! You're stronger than you think!!

If you're looking to make them looked "iced," I think you may be thinking of over-dipping in a sense. In your case, you would put hot wax in a small container and somehow hold the piece you want to dip -- let's say using chopsticks to hold them in the center hole, upside down -- dip just the top in the wax, take it out, dip it again ... this would be done several times. I think the wire rack idea is perfect ... once you have the top covered enough, place on rack and sprinkle with wax decors (grated wax perhaps) or leave them, but I think this might work.

That's interesting ... thank you. OT -- my (late) kitty used to sleep on a heating pad on low w/ a blanket over it ... I can see it now at your place, lots of boxes of candles with heating pads on them with furry sleepers on top.

I understand to not get overly upset over them, thanks! I poured a 15-ounce straight sided container with my new sample of 464 over the weekend, briefly used a heat gun during the cooling session, and wet spots are minimal -- so, I'll choose to be happy if I succeed in not getting them and choose to be happy even if they appear.

I think the jar in your first photo is more elegant looking with the straight lines. I'll keep an eye out for it. I've had problems burning narrow containers in the past, but I've switched waxes since then in my wax exploration venture, lol, so maybe I'll try again. I like the look ... kind of like a pillar candle, but a container -- just could never get them burning correctly when I tried before.

I've never used your wax before, but I'd like to try one day. It's probably as Chefmom noted -- the narrow container. I'd still be curious to see if priming the wick a bit more with the wax that you are using would help at all.

I think the griddle (or a hot plate) is a great idea, especially in cooler months, I really should get one. I have a very small kitchen -- no, I mean *very small* -- old stone house that used to be "ranch style" until someone finally put in some walls, but I've seen bigger hallways, lol -- it's more like a kitchenette. So, in the winter, it's the warmest little cubby-hole in the house. I do have a Farberware electric skillet, I could probably use that come to think of it. I wasn't making soy containers in previous winters, so this is the first winter that I'll get to try to fight the wet spots; might go back to doing my dessert novelty candles for awhile!

Aside from type of jar and drafts being a cause (could be), I'm curious about the size of wick you're using. Also, do you prime them yourself or did they come pre-tabbed/primed? If they came primed, I wonder if it could help to give them a second coat ...?

I don't warm mine either. I'd be really hesitant to use warm water around any glass that I'm going to be pouring a candle into for fear of some water droplet getting in there. If the weather is really cold and I feel the pouring area is on the cool side, I may quickly use a heat gun on the glass to see if I can prevent air bubbles/wet spots. The only time I have pre-warmed glassware is with gel candles when I don't want bubbles and that was just in a warm oven. I like that griddle though and it's making me hungry.

I have not tried them lately, maybe I'll try again some day if something really catches my eye.

(To clarify, I was referring to C&S.)

I ordered some of their products many years ago; of scents, I recall a blueberry, pear glace', chocolate mint (something like that, it's been a very long time) ... okay scents, but they seemed to have an artificial quality about them I couldn't quite put my finger on.

From what I've read, those are supposed to be good wicks -- I'll have to try them one day. I have been using square braid cotton, which I buy in spools, tabbing & priming myself. I've been advised (on this board), however, that these can "slump" in some soy waxes while burning, but I haven't personally had any issue with them so far.

I think the wax would have to be hotter than you would safely take it to before you'd start to lose scent while you're making the candle. Are you getting a nice melt pool in your tureen jars? It seems that you're adding scent at the correct temp., as long as you're stirring well and allowing the candles to cure, then that part seems alright. I've never used those types of wicks before.

Last night after pouring, I used my heat gun after about 45 minutes ... (I've decided I need a small Lazy Susan for this), anyway ... I pointed it only at the bottom of the candle, with just a quick brush across the top ... I don't know if it's going to reduce wet spots yet, as some could still appear (none yet), but I have a glossy top. The reason I thought to do this has to do my search for a wet spot reduction method, and from making gel candles, I know that if you apply a heat gun at the bottom of the candle all around, any hidden air bubbles will rise and release. I'm going to try this again if this candle doesn't come up with air pockets.

I have read about that ... having to do with unequal heat on one side of the candle, or something like that ... I've made candles for a long time, but soy containers are fairly new to me, so I'm just not used to this issue. I was thinking if some of the possible remedies don't work, to see if making a relief hole with a second pour would help. Otherwise, embrace the wet spots, it is. Trappeur ... I have heard of the wrapping with a paper towel practice, I haven't tried that (summer doesn't want to let go here, not that cool yet!) -- as for covering the top of the candle while it's cooling, I tend to think that may or may not cause an issue due to any water droplets, although a paper towel would absorb & "breath," regular paper would most likely insulate, but would there be some condensation? I have read of a suggestion to allow them to cool in a box if the house is cool, I'll be able to experiment with this soon (as well as 464) when these temps drop (then I'll be wishing for summer again.) As for "smooth, glass tops" -- my tops with the 444 are a matte finish unless I second pour or use a heat gun.

When my wax arrives, I'll pour one at 120 and one at 150 and see if there is any difference in regard to wet spots. I know, I'm supposed to embrace them, but I'd like to erase them. After my test burn of the two waxes, I'll report back ... it's going to be awhile since I won't pour them until this coming weekend and allow for a cure time before test burns. With so many good reviews of this wax, I'd be foolish not to try it. I'd also like to try C-3 sometime.

I've got a sample order of a couple of pounds of GW464 on the way to me, so I'll see how it goes. I've been using GW444, which I like, but I'd like to compare the two. From everything I've read, GW464 is recommended to be poured at around 130dF ... although I have read that it may be better to pour soy wax as close to the meltpoint temperature as possible, which would be around 115-120dF for 464 ... I think this suggestion that I've read has to do with reducing wet spots.

As much as I like to give people the benefit of the doubt that they will burn a candle properly or to candlemakers that they will wick a candle properly, of course, there are always going to be the exceptions. As far as that goes -- any candle in the wrong hands could go wrong, and any candle making equipment in the wrong hands could go wrong. I reuse my testing jars over and over again as well, and I'm certainly not saying that such jars should ever be sold or given away. As far as a jam jar goes, such as a Ball jar that is not old, but once had jam in it, I'm not afraid to use it for one of my candles -- I probably wouldn't give it to anyone else; but I'm sure there are many people who would have no issue with it and it would probably all be fine if cared for properly.

I understand your point, but there are always going to be crafters that use various forms of glassware. For instance, I see vintage tea cups made into candles, such as on etsy. We can do our best to secure sturdy glassware, but any glass could have an issue, esp. if a candle is not made correctly, so it's not just the glassware that is important. There are some containers that I've seen candles in that I would never use for candleware ... in such a case, the new raw material may not be as sturdy as the used raw material if the used material was made better. I guess, the thing is that nobody can tell when any container may fail. This article kind of tells it like it is when it says: Actually, the flame surge resulting from the freshly exposed wick can occur with any kind of candle. A nice aromatic votive that has thoroughly liquefied could crack its container, exposing the wick. On a pillar that has been burning for hours and has a nice melt pool going, a sidewall could suddenly melt loose, again draining the melt pool away from the wick. When you think about it, a container candle that is prone to break is really no different than a pillar. Any container made out of glass or ceramic can crack, even those that are considered heat resistant, such as canning jars or glassware made specifically for candle making. The bottom line is that all candles should be burned on a heat resistant surface, well away from any flammable objects such as drapes or overhanging cabinetry, and most importantly, under supervision. Not all containers will crack. Maybe only one in 1000 canning jars will crack. That’s not really the problem. The problem is that many people see containers as bona fide candle holders and may trust them to the point of negligence. Those are unsafe containers. So, the key to a safe container candle is supervision." https://candletech.com/candle-making/tips-and-tricks/safe-containers/

It is true that any container could fail, usually due to extreme temperature fluctuations. This is one reason why warming glassware if your house is cold isn't only for adhesion, but is a safe practice. I have read that vintage Pyrex was much better, btw ... seems as though the newer product can have issues, as this isn't the first time I've read this ... I guess it must be from taking the glass out of a hot oven and introducing it into a cooler environment, or perhaps the newer Pyrex weakens with use. Anyway, the point I'm trying to make is that jars that are made for canning purposes are made to withstand heat, and I have a hard time thinking that they would fail with a second use such as being made into a candle.

Okay, so what ya'll are saying is that those cute vintage jars from my grandmother's French jam should not one day become a gift candle that someone may enjoy. They are the ones as shown in this article: http://www.davidlebovitz.com/jars/ If people don't have any issue with reusing a French jam jar as a drinking glass as discussed in the article, why would it be considered such a no-no for a candle? If the jar is in good condition and you have others like it that you have tested, is the reason here for safety or because it's considered in bad taste to repour into a repurposed container? I haven't given any of my French jam jars away as candles, but some folks would probably like them.