birdcharm

What are you making? Did you say you were working on cupcakes? Is the second layer you're adding whipped? ... or are you making layers in a tray or bars? When I made layers in a tray (the bottom layer being a design feature), I poured it and allowed it to harden; misted it with rubbing alcohol just before pouring the second layer and they become one piece. So, I've kind of made layers in a sense (with the bottom layer being a design that is actually on the top of the soap), but I've never made cupcakes, if that is what you're working on. I was thinking if the bottom part of the cupcake is almost set, then a brief warming on the surface may not hurt right before adding a top layer, but I don't know, it was simply a guess that maybe if the bottom part was almost firm that warming the top surface could possibly ready it for sticking to another layer. What soap base are you using? And, if you're doing cupcakes (I think you said that in another post, sorry if I'm wrong about that), what is the recipe for the whipped portion? Maybe someone with cupcake experience will be able to help.

I'm going to try out the SFIC low-sweat "LCP" white and the regular SFIC white soap bases. I just finished placing my order, so I'll get my thoughts around this new project! I've got a few pounds of the low-sweat and one of the white on order. I've been reading many of the wonderful pointers here and they're quite helpful. I'm probably going to have some questions regarding additives, however. It's often humid where I live and I have made melt and pour before, but did sometimes have an issue, so I'm excited to try this out. I have some simple bar molds that I'll use. I read that the low-sweat base can possibly have a "dry" feeling, so I'm wondering about adding a bit of oil. I've also read some tips about using a little stearic acid for hardening, but I'm not sure about that -- I guess I'll be testing some things!

I've only made melt 'n' pour in trays ... now, I have layered them but that entailed a pour for the molded design, then a top pour for the rest of the mold. I don't know if I poured the second layer hotter than the first as in candle wax, but maybe I did. Did you try warming the molded layer with a heat gun briefly to warm it up just a bit before applying the second layer? Maybe that would help, I'm not sure, but it might be worth a try.

... sorry for typo!!

I have been using a high temp heat gun, which creates a good seal for me ... I gave up the dipping pot idea, but the "no stringing" glue sounded interesting. Some day, I will pick up some stickers when I'm ordering from a place that has them, but "no" on the glue dots, as I have tried those before. Thanks for your offer Trappeur, you have a wonderful southern hospiltality!

As TallTayl has mentioned, you'll first need to decide what kind of format you'd like to have. If you want pages to work on that you would like to interconnect with one another as time goes by, a regular website would probably be best, as with a blog, it's more difficult to connect between the various pages to bring it all together for the navigation. Yet, you'll need to either learn html & css or get some templates, or, there are also utility type of programs that help you make the code. And, you'll need a web host for the page (you can find some for under $7/mo) ... if you want to sell products there, you can create payment buttons on Paypal and they supply the code, or I think they also have a shopping cart program, I'm not sure. Does your husband or son know a little about html (the code writing process to make your page look presentable?) I only know simple code and have very basic skills, but I putt along!

Thanks ... so, are you saying that if you use the heavy duty stuff that there IS a way to remove them by "soaking" them ... what would you use to soak them in? If I have a nice glass or jar I don't know that I'd like to have a permanent fixture of a wick tab stuck to the bottom after the candle has burned so I can't use it for anything else at all.

I think both Clear Black and Moonshine make very good points. In the case of a container that narrows near the top, a full melt pool most likely is "a must" because the container diameters are going to change on the way down. Yet, with straight-sided containers, if a little wax is left on the sides, when the candle burns the second time, it is going to heat up the glass and as long as there's not too much "hang up," it will consume a thin layer that may have been left after the first burn. The point that containers burn quite differently than pillars is also true; yet, I think the tunneling issue could happen with some waxes and apparently not with others as PhoenixFyre has explained.

I found the link to the earlier thread about this topic, plus the post I made with the photo, so I'm going to link it here. Other thread That would work ... also, I was thinking, esp. for personal candles, I bet there's some sort of "costume jewelry find" somewhere that offers a metal tube bead that could be used ... something like this, although I was thinking of a tube bead. Of course, the opening in the bead needs to be able to accommodate the width of the wick. Just a thought anyway!

Yet, if you have a longer neck, crimped tightly, the candle will extinguish when the level of the candle approaches (goes under) the height of the crimping.

If you use the Permatex on a jar or glass -- let's say a personal tester -- is there a way to remove it so you can reuse the same jar to test again?

I would like to add, that there was a thread somewhere here not long ago in which wick tab sleeves (or necks, or whatever you call them) was discussed, I'll try to look for it for you unless anyone else happens to have it handy. Do you know the length of the metal piece on your wick tab? Some are 3mm -- if you have that type, you may wish to switch to 6mm or 10mm.

I'm not so sure your wick moved or that it would have moved if matches were not left in the candle ... if those matches stayed lit, then my guess is that the wax got hotter than it normally would. Your customer doesn't know how to burn candles. I've never heard of anyone doing this and wouldn't even think that someone would think of it. It's so stupid beyond belief that I can't help myself but to be rude in my reply. If you tested your candles and they performed correctly, then I wouldn't give it another thought. Your customer needs to be instructed on the proper way to burn a candle.

This is my take on it, which may differ from other opinions. Normally, on my first burn session, I will burn the candle for approx. an hour of time for every inch in diameter. The melt pool begins to make its way to the edges, but maybe not quite fully. If I continue to subsequent burns for about 2-3 hours at a time, I like to see the melt pool get complete with not too much wax left on the glass as the candle burns down. If there is a complete layer of wax left on the glass, without any areas where all of the wax has eventually melted, I might think to try a larger wick, as I don't like to see too much wasted wax. You just don't want to get in a situation where the candle has tunneled due to not burning for a long enough time on the first run ... some say it will catch up, but I've found that it may not always, depending on the wax -- so, again, I do the "hour per inch" thing on the first session.

Definitely contact them ... I've ordered from them via e-mail before, they just send you a Paypal request for payment.

Wow ... that's interesting to note. Thanks for sharing that!

I think it's a matter of looking at the bigger picture -- some GMO's aren't in themselves doing any harm, although I have noticed that some fruits may last longer on the shelves, they certainly don't taste as sweet as they used to. Yet, some of them are doing damage, often in indirect ways. For instance, some of the farming practices are wiping out other plants ... these can be plants, for instance, like milkweed which is necessary for Monarch butterflies. Again, we just need to look further down the road regarding some things or consider some things we may not have thought about.

Ouch!

As an example, on the EcoSoya manufacturer's product page, they state: "We designed all the EcoSoya manufacturing processes to purify our waxes so thoroughly as to remove any presence of pesticides, herbicides or Genetically Modified Materials (GMM). These processes have been verified and confirmed to be 100% effective by experienced third party Accredited Laboratory analysis of each of our waxes. All results have proven that our manufacturing processes ensure EcoSoya CB-135, CB-Advanced Soy, CB-XceL and PB contain NONE of these substances. We use good, old-fashioned, farm-grown soybeans to create all our environmentally friendly EcoSoya soy waxes." On their pesticide-free file, it states: "no components found within detection limits" >>> "We would like to use soybeans that are strictly organic or non-GMO but due to supply issues we can’t guarantee it. We do guarantee that our waxes themselves do not contain any pesticides, herbicides, or genetically modified material. During manufacturing, the waxes are cleaned of any of these items if present, resulting in a very clean and green product." So, I would say that this particular company takes care to offer a "cleansed" product, and I've read similar notes on other companies' sites, so I don't feel that there is much of an issue in terms of having any reactions to pesticides with the soy waxes. Yet, it's not to say that they aren't used.

The additives, for instance, in GW444 and 464 are soy additives. "Golden Wax has two blended waxes that contain a soy-based additive and are both natural and kosher. This soy-based additive enables the soy to be poured at a hotter temperature reducing frosting and increasing FO load."

Do you have any "room" (percentage-wise) to add anything else to this wax? I just finished up some candles for my "Sandalwood or Sandalwood-mixes" customer -- a couple of the mixes were cinnamon and vanilla. Then I got bored -- two others were the sandalwood mixed with mango and the other with pineapple. I'm surprised! Maybe if it's possible to add anything to your mix, you could try a tropical fruit.

I had to look in my notes, but just to add for reference (from my notes): GW415 - Blends with other waxes, such as paraffin or beeswax. GW464- Does not mix well with beeswax, but mixes with paraffin. I'm not sure of the source for the above, but I made a note of it. ~~~~~~~ The thing is that a candle can be 100% soy -- but, imo, it's not 100% "natural" -- for instance, soy cannot be considered "organic." Also, it's likely that most of the soy wax that is available contains GMO soy beans, and, in turn, has had any presence of pesticides removed.

I've been working with fragrance oils for over twenty years and I've never once found any need to "inhale" any of it --- sniff, yes; inhale, as in taking a deep breath of it, no. "I had no clue about these terrible warnings and I was alarmed ..." Please! Any perfume or fragrance should be used with care, just as so many other things ... the Material Safety Data Sheet is intended to cover any possible dangers that a product can pose. In terms of concentrated fragrance oils, of course they are not intended for inhaling!

I think there is such a thing as having "too many" candles burning in an enclosed setting -- as to what "too many" might be, I'm not sure! It all depends on the situation, like having too many chocolates ... or coffee! This article may interest you, but keep in mind that the paraffin used in some parts of the world may not be as refined as we know, for instance, in the U.S. Impact of Candle Burning During All Saints’ Day Ceremonies As for my household candle burning or making, I'm not overly concerned with it as I don't do it in excess. With my never-ending dusting where I live, if I should be concerned about something, it would probably be dust mites!!

I've never done that type of design, but I pick up things when I read around. I think you spray the two surfaces you are going to join together with rubbing alcohol and press them together. I'm sorry if this isn't correct, but I think it might be!