wthomas57

I buy mine from both Candle Science and Lonestar. I haven't noticed issues with either to this point. Sometimes I have a harder time noticing scent, but that is from candle nose more than anything ya know. I am around fragrance so much that you get used to it. So I usually ask someone else or put it in a room I am not around and then go check periodically. Its always better than I think it is. I will say that I have no issues with 6006 and certain fragrance. Generally if I find a weak fragrance, then its weak in any wax I use. I really love using 3022, maybe more than 6006... but I find it less forgiving on Fragrances. Ill have more fragrance issues with 3022 than I do 6006.. more so the more I use each.

Correct, I didn't mean anything rude by it at all. I was honestly thinking they may have been confusing it with another wax as 6006 I wouldn't consider messy. Thanks for having my back. :)

Yah, I could care less about the color of candles... but hands down, customers prefer color. Its not even close. Especially around holidays. Someone mentioned they dont like the cost of coloring (dont remember who), but there is VERY little cost.... I mean, pennies per candle if that. A few drops of color cost nothing. I think the most any candle has cost me in color was still under 10 cents and that was to get a true red or black. The worst part about color is having to deal with the color, lol. But you get used to it. Its not that I dont sell any that are non-colored. But colored sells about 20-1 for me now over the long run. Actually its much higher than that. The 20 to 1 ration included scents that make sense to be white or creamy with no color. So, those are non colored anyways. All in all, I will sell 0 blue spruce that are off-white while selling 50 that are colored.

I don't use prepaids so not sure. I use a business credit card for my inventory and material purchases. And, by the way.. Aztec was one of the ones I had issue with as well. Which is a bummer because I like them.

I have a sample of it but haven't tried it. For me I chose 3022 as a more soy based option than 6006. Its hard for me to leave 6006 for something similar that I already know so well. But would love to hear some feedback on it.

This happened to me twice... both from 2 of our candle suppliers. So yes, its a real concern. They all need to up their security game. At first I was getting a lot of bogus deflecting and passing the buck. And general customer service has no idea about security so they responses and attempts and trying to explain or mitigate fault was just hilarious. I still use one of them but cautiously with a single card that I watch a lot. I typically keep it locked until I need to use it just to be safe.

PROs: more intriguing Better and quick full melt pools (without being overwicked) crackling.... not consistent though. Easier to get a good wick size (and less choices. testing is easier) CONS: More expensive I think the wick tabs are a huge pain in the A$$ Inconsistent crackling Limited suppliers and limited quality Generally more soot which freaks some people out

I dont think think that curing is a myth, but I think people have different results. Some environments have different cure times. Different FOs have different cure needs. Also, some noses are more sensitive to smell than others and find their candles plenty strong just 1 day later. I know people who use my wax of choice and say they get different HT and different wicking actually after a couple weeks cure. But, not for me at all. I test every new scent/jar/wax/wick combo 2-3 days cure and then again at 2 or 3 weeks. Its always the same for me. I see WAY more vairance in the wax we receive from our suppliers that have an effect on our finished products much more than cure time does. That is scary. Anyway, thats just my experience.

Parasoy (6006) for most my candles. Cleaner burning than straight parrafin, can tell customers I have candles that are partial soy (which helps believe it or not) and I like the creaminess. But, I also just know this wax the best and its nuances. Years of working with has made me most comfortable with it, although its still not perfect. Depening on the jar and the FO, I use many different ones including HTP, CD, Premier, LX, wood wicks, and zinc. Next parasoy choice would be Clarus 3022. I prefer everythign about it over 6006 except the HT is weaker than 6006. That is the only reason it hasn't replaced 6006 for me. Wicks: HTP, CD, Premier, Wood wicks, and Paper When using just parrafin, I use 4630 for the smoother/creamier look. And I use mottling for my mottled candles. Mottling wax is much tough to work with, but my customers love it. HTP, Premier, and Paper mostly.

I disagree with cure time. A couple days is usually plenty for 6006 but it doesn't hurt to wait longer if you want. Your biggest issue is the wick. That wick size is awfully large for your container. Heck, you may be burning off half your scent with that wick. Back that down several sizes. Also, that vybar you are adding is trapping your scent. 6006 is pre-blended with vybar already. You need 0 vybar in 6006. So get rid of that entirely. Finally... something else to try. Increase your melt to about 190 and then add your FO at 185. Temp drops as soon as you start adding FO. If you pulling off heat at 180, then starting to add FO. you could easily be around 170 by the time you are really mixing it in. Many FOs dont blend well until they are 180-185. My standard practice is melt to 190-195, pull from heat and add dye if applicable. Add FO at or just below 185. Pour at 170 You also could be getting weak throw because of the FO's you are using. Try some Mac Apple or something very common and use that as your baseline. I've never used either scent you are using but perhaps they are just super light. Hope this helps.

I've used 6006 for years and these extra long cure times of like 2 weeks is just not necessary. Sure... you MAY get a i bit more noticeable HT or CT after they sit longer, or it may be because you spent time away from the candle and not used to it. My test results have never been different after a couple days vs a couple weeks, especially with wicking. It is mostly parrafin after all. Ive reached out to manufactures and distributors before and asked about cure times.. and most laugh at the idea of letting cure for a couple weeks. Most say 2 days is plenty. Just my two cents. If you notice otherwise, then go with what you think. For me... a couple or few days has always worked fine.

Have you tried 6006? (Its more parrafin). Its pretty straight forward and not bad to scale. Yes you can still have some "fixing up to do" sometimes from dips or holes, etc. But hard to find a worthwhile wax that doesn't have that. Do you poke relief holes? That helps a lo. If you do that a couple hours into the cure it makes a big difference. Yes it takes some extra time, but it rids you of hidden craters later on that lead to poor candles. If you are wanting it to scale and NOT need that extra attention like slowing down cure, poking relief holes, etc... that I am not real sure. Most waxes I have ever used need that to a degree. You can try Clarus waxes as well. I like all their soys better than I like 464.

Welcome! What you are describing is actually more of a characteristic of using 464... not 4630. 464 is known for that. Also, over the past year soy has suffered major issues. So i would be looking at your 46r being the problem. Not the 4630. All that being said... slow down your cure but covering them while they cool..pre hest jars if u have to in order to slow it down. The wax is contracting so much leaving craters and air bubbles probably too which wxplains why they show up after burning as well. Paraffin coolers down more quickly as well so gind that right pour temp and slow down your cooling after you pour. Good luck

Mix it with 4630 if u have any or even 6006. It will make it manageable until its gone. Or just chuck it with a big smile. I wasted too much time and money on that junk trying to make it work. Lol

I blended mine with the trashcan. Stuff if just AWFUL!

I also always test with UV 1/2tsp per pound. Never really had a wick difference whether I use it or not.

And I see anywhere from 1/4tsp to 1/2tsp per pound. That being said, I rarely see it help much overall. The candles I tend to care the most about changing colors and getting ugly are those with vanillin in them. However, the UV doesnt help that so for me... why bother. Lol

You could also be using way too much ink. Use standard setting, not glossy. Try fast print and lower dpi. Don't need all that and lays too much ink anyway

Well u have to use certain printer type with certain labels. It tells you which ones. Some are inkjet only, some laser only, a few do both. I agree inkjet is usually more rich. But mine are dry after minutes.

I only use onlinelabels.com..... have for years. I use ink jet and laser. Never had problems with either. Dry quickly... it has to be your printer settings. Work with their support.... but i have no issues at all with them. Highly recommend

Yah, definitely npt improved throw... and extremely picky on FO anyway

yah its terrible stuff... but as far as the beige or off white... that is going to be pretty much all soy. Won't be pure white

go with C3... not the quantum waxes

I agree... DO NOT use the quantum waxes. And to clarify.. I said the REGULATIONS allow a candle over a certain % of soy to be called soy... it doesn't mean that I do it or advocate it. I make several different kings of candles. But it is allowed. And to be frank.. rules like that exists in all industries in this country and around the world. Examples.... "Caffeine Free" soda, coffee, and tea..... all still have caffeine. Sugar free might have little or no sugar, but they replace it with worse ingredients. So, lets be careful about acting too high and mighty here when talking about soy vs a soy blend. Not to mention... many candle makers aren't doing that to be "shady", they are simply calling their candle consistent with the rest of the market. A candle maker calling their candle a soy candle when its 90% soy and 10% parrafin or an additive doesn't deserve (in my opinion) to be labeled as "the type of people I wouldn't buy a candle from". Lol, I think that's getting a bit stuck up to be honest. Again, they are labeling within the industry. And if we are going to really get serious about calling something soy or not...... we should all stop right now. Because NONE of us make 100% soy candle unless they are unscented, no dye, etc. Every candle has something in it that makes up at least a small % other than the wax, and in this case the soy. Because let's be honest here... the fragrance oils are BY FAR the most unsafe materials we use. If customers or anyone really cared so much about what they are burning in their homes, it would be the oils they asked about first. Of course unless you are talking about the new quantum waxes... I dont know what kinda s%^& that stuff if... but dont use it. Sorry for the ranted response... I just dont think its fair of anyone to judge other people's character because they put soy on their candle instead of soy blend. It could simply be a mistake, ignorance,or just doing what is allowed in the industry. Considering most "soy candlemakers" put soy on their candles and most of the candles are parasoys.... I find it a little crazy to assume all those people are bad people. Lol

Obviously, I dont know about the candle you bought for sure .... but almost all "soy candles" on the market are soy blends. Soy does have great cold throw (comparable or better than paraffin in my experience. But hot throw isn't the same without using a lot more FO or without blending.Its one of the reasons so many people use 6006.... even though its tricky to wick.