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Found 6 results

  1. I've tried to find the answer to my question but was unable to. My question is this; what is the best parasoy for container candles? I want the best HT/CT possible in a parasoy. Im trying to research a few but can't find any good information. Thanks in advance!
  2. Hello Everyone, I recently started making candles as a hobby, and I made some for my church, as a result, a few people have asked me to make a candle from them pushing me out of my hobby comfort zone. Currently, I am using 464 wax, and eco wicks (which I am going to try another wick), and 6oz mason jars. I saw some cute metal tins on sale at TJ Max and decided to give them a try. Friday I made some vanilla scented 4oz candles in tins. My question is, what's the preferred container for candles glass jars or tins. Also, I live in New Orleans and have not found a local glass jar distributor, I have noticed the shipping on them to be expensive. Does anyone have container supplier recommendations? Thanks in advance for helping a newbie out.
  3. Hi, I'm a newbie here, hoping to find some help for my candle fails. I hope I haven't missed a post that already covers my problem. I'm a commercial beekeeper and have been making my own beeswax candles for a year or so. It's taken a lot of testing, fails, hair-tearing, etc. I have ALMOST got them just right - burning evenly, wick centred, no sink holes, no cracks (usually), etc. But I have one last problem which is driving me up the wall and over the other side. Sometimes - just sometimes - when the candles set, some of them come away from the jar leaving a messy residue on the glass, making them pretty well unsaleable. More for me to burn, but that's beside the point. You should be able to see what I mean in the pic I posted. The candles there are halfway through cooling, just after second pour, and just at the point of coming away from the jar. I know everyone says beeswax is not for jar candles, and I generally agree when it's 100% beeswax, but I'm adding a small amount of coconut oil to make it softer and burn better - also scent oils as well. So the wax is softer than 100% beeswax. All in all the jars work pretty well for me - except for this one problem. So generally what I do is get the wax up to 70 C in my double boiler, slowly heat the prepared jars in the oven to 150 C (because they cool quickly while pouring). Then I heat a pyrex jug for each scent, pour the wax into the jug, then mix in coconut oil and scent, pour wax into jars and replace the candles into the (now off) oven. I leave a tea towel wedged in the oven door for the first 20 mins or so, to cool the oven down to about 70 C, before leaving it to cool ever so slowly with the door shut. Then pull them out to poke holes and do a second pour about 3 hours later when they're just starting to separate from the jars. So the weird thing is, sometimes they all come out perfect - they all separate from the jars nice and cleanly, leaving no residue. But sometimes there will be one or two, or on a really bad day nearly half the candles which come away from the glass really messily, leaving all this residue stuck to the jars. And I totally don't know WHY, or what I'm doing differently to those few candles that go wrong!! It's seriously driving me MAD! Is the wax too cool when pouring, by the time I mix in the scent and coconut oil? Is there too much coconut oil? Is the oven not hot enough? Was there some residue on the glass before pouring, that I couldn't see? It would be great if someone has some input, before I tear all my hair out! Thanks in advance! :-)
  4. Total novice to candle making here. Always wanted to do it and finally got myself a kit. I am making candles as a hobby with intention to gift but would still love to give away something of quality. I know there is a lot of information available but nothing seemed directly applicable to my variables AND was understandable to a novice like myself. This is the second burn of the very first candle I poured, cured 24 hours, 100% Golden brands 464 using CDN8 wick in 8.5cm (3.3inch) diameter jar (used old candle jar). My fragrance load was roughly 8%: 26g FO in 325g soy flakes. I think the tunnelling (am I correctly identifying tunnelling?) I am seeing is probably due to me using wicks from the kit in a jar with a wider diameter to those provided in the kit. I am unsure why I am getting this beading condensation on top, this only occurs during the burn but not when it is sitting cold. After my second burn, the melt pool solidified with a weird texture like you can see in the second picture. I added fragrance at 80C (175F) and poured at 65C (150F). FO load was . I add a few scrapings of my dye chip to my unmelted soy flakes before I add to heat. Fragrance throw was shockingly good cold but totally average hot. I am also using a laser pointer type thermometer. Which is better, this or the mercury thermometer I received in my kit?? Any kind of advice to point me in the right direction is greatly appreciated. What size wick would be more appropriate? Would you suggest a wick type better suited to GB 464? Did I add the dye at the wrong stage? Am i adding fragrance at the right temperatures/load? I followed the temperature steps recommended by the supplier I used. Would love to get some quality feedback rather than my guesswork research. Very excited to finally be a part of this thriving community and very eager to learn!!
  5. Hey guys, First time poster here, long time reader. I've been making soy candles for about 6 months now. Recently I've come across an issue which I'm not sure how to describe. I posted some pics below, but it looks like the wax and container is doing something funky, I'm thinking maybe the wax is separating from the sides of the glass? I've been letting this cure in my apt and this just happened on the 6th day, it was totally normal prior. I'm thinking maybe it's because it's FREEZING in my apartment at night and unfortunately, most LA apartments don't come with central heat/air. It gets down to maybe low 40's at night. I put it in a cupboard, but maybe I'm just outta luck until the spring. Anyway, if there's anyone out there who can confirm it's due to my cold apt, or if this has happened to you and it's something different completely, let me know! Here's some info for this tester: GB 444, heated to 185, added FO, poured at 120, heated container in oven for a bit to warm it up, poured really slow. *the top is smooth
  6. Hi there, I have been using the 16oz Anchor Hocking Patio jars for awhile now after the lids that worked for our old 16oz jars were discontinued and we didn't want to switch to glass lids. The lids we currently use for the 16oz jars are these- http://www.bulkapothecary.com/product/make-it/candle-making/candle-jars/h28-silver-cover-lll-item-z7845/ . We also just got the 8oz Patio jars (http://www.anchorhocking.com/prodd_4564_cat_95_patio.html) because one of the biggest complaints from our customers is the lack of size options/cost of the 16oz candles/fear of commitment to a 100 hour burning candle. We had considered it for awhile, but hadn't been able to find a matching 8oz jar to our 16oz until we started using these new Patio jars and finally thought, "Hey, we really should check if they make 8oz since these are nice jars." We snatched a bunch up since we knew they'd be popular but unfortunately we haven't been able to find lids that match our current 16oz lids that fit the 8oz jars. I talked to our supplier about lids and she informed me that Anchor Hocking unfortunately discontinued making the silver fitment lids for their 8oz Patio jars, even though they still make them for the 16oz. The smallest silver fitment lids I've been able to find were 75 and 79mm, and I inquired about the width of the fitments- they are 71 (~2.79") and ~70 (2.75") mm respectively. Too big for our jars. The inside of the mouth of the jar, where the fitment would have to pop into, is ~64mm (~2.5"). The size of the entire mouth of the jar, from edge of lip to edge of lip, is about 73mm (~2.9"). I've done extensive searching for lids that would fit this jar. Those two were the smallest I could find. If anyone knows of/uses any similar lids with a small enough fitment or a company that may supply this size of lid, I would greatly appreciate being pointed in the right direction. Thank you so much!
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