Jump to content


Registered Users Plus
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

194 Excellent

About Kerven

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender


  • Makes

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Kerven

    Lab & Co coconut wax

    Anyone know if Accu-Blend imports its materials? I recall having read somewhere that they import a variety of ingredients from Asia. All Seasons Wax would be fantastic, especially if it's not produced domestically. I've lost faith in US wax producers. Until Coco83 is back in stock, here's a short list of other coconut and coconut blend waxes: Coconut-Apricot blend - Swans. The brand appears to be Ceda-Serica, a trademark of Calwax. It does contain some paraffin. Coconut-Apricot blend - Candlewic. See above (the SDS confirms it). Calwax CCP1 - Swans. Coconut/paraffin blend. C6 - TFC. Ultra Wax - General Wax. SC-21 - Cal Candle Supply. Coconut "hybrid" blend. NatureWax Coconut 1 - Fillmore. Cargill brand. All Natural Coconut Container Wax - Swans. No idea what brand but it sounds similar to the coconut oil blend Candlewic had. Needs a hardener. Did I forget any? Is the texture of the Lab & Co waxes similar to coco83? The pictures make it look a bit chalky/fudgy... like chunks of cocoa or shea butter.
  2. It's possible that the wicks were too large, tunneled a bit at the start. Then, the wax on the sides of the holes melted as the flame lowered and heat built up within the wax, flooding the hole and drowning the wick. There aren't many wicks that burn hotter than ECO and CD, IMO... square braided or cotton core, maybe? You'll want to look at wicking for beeswax if your goal is a hotter burn. Although, I'd suggest trying the smaller sizes of ECO and CD in the soy-coconut blend before switching to a different wick series. For a 9oz jar, assuming it's of a similar width to the straight sided tumblers, I'd suggest trying an ECO 6. ECO 8 will give a full melt pool sooner but you may also have an unstable flame, some smoking, and the glass becoming hot when the flame is lower in the candle. However, without knowing the coconut and soy waxes used in the blend and at what ratio, it's difficult to say. Additives, FO, and dyes can also have an effect.
  3. Cotton Candy (CS) Sex on the Beach (CS) Pink Sands (TCS) Strawberry Shortcake (CS) Guavaberry (Cierra) Watermlon (CS) White Tea and Berries (CS) Pink Lemonade
  4. A dedicated space. An ideal wax or, at least, a wax I don't have to worry about with each new shipment. Supplier transparency and full disclosure about products. A local supplier for everything I can't find locally (or at all).
  5. Kerven

    Lab & Co coconut wax

    There are some oddities between The Wooden Wick Co., Lumetique, and Candle Art, LLC. The agent/owner of Candle Art, LLC. had another business with the name of Wood Candle Wick, LLC, which was involuntarily dissolved in 2016 - about the same time a local paper reported that the owner had a pending wood wick patent application. The Wooden Wick Co. lists all of Lumetique's patents for the wooden wicks and they're supposedly licensed to manufacture the wood wicks. There's a business entity called Wood Candle Wick Technologies, INC. in Laguna Beach. I assume this is The Wooden Wick Co.. If that's the case, the agent for both Lumetique and Wood Candle Wick Technologies, INC. is the same. Incidentally, both of these entities use the same address in their business license as well. Coincidence? So, why would Candle Art ship a Lab & Co product, which was sold through The Wooden Wick Co.... And who/what is Lab & Co? Is that a DBA name for Candle Art or The Wooden Wick Co.?
  6. Kerven

    Wicking Coconut Wax

    @RuruThe coconut waxes vary a bit but seem to perform similarly... with a few exceptions. I haven't tried all of them, but from what I've read and experienced, they all have low melting points and require smaller wicking than required for the soy waxes. The Northwood coconut wax (looks like they're sold out) might work with C3. I can't say for certain as the their coconut wax claims to be paraffin-free, and I'm still convinced the coco83 I used had paraffin and tallow in it. I know the Candlewic coconut-apricot wax had paraffin in it. So.... It's worth a shot, but I'm not promising it'll work. I have a blend of 50% C3 and 50% CW coconut-apricot that's fairly decent (I'm not 100% excited about the throw or the slight frosting and how it gave CS Blueberry Cheesecake the slightest hint of anise and licorice... but that could be an issue with the FO). It does form wet spots when poured hot but the wet spots are nearly large enough to cover the entire surface, so it's not a problem for me. Top surface is smooth with a slight sheen, although it's prone to slight cratering. I poured hot around 185F. Something lower around 130-150F might give better results with glass adhesion and cratering. It's not the best blend I've tried but it's a definite improvement over straight soy, IMO.
  7. Kerven

    Beer Can Candle

    One thing that would cause concern for me would be how flimsy beer cans are. If it has a full melt pool, someone goes to pick it up with a firm grip and it crinkles/creases/dents, that might cause the melt pool to splash or spill over. Those beer can glasses look great. I've had my eye on them for a while but they're absurdly overpriced on many sites. Edit: You can purchase the metal cans without the lids. Not sure how sharp the edges would be.
  8. Kerven

    Wicking Coconut Wax

    @Ruru When I make coco83/464 blends, I always have a temperature that I heat to (it's between 185-190F) no matter the wax. What temperature I add the FO is a bit more flexible, depending a lot on the ratio of the blend. More coconut, I'll add the FO at a higher temp (185F) and pour at a higher temp (175-185F). More soy, I'll add the FO at a slightly lower temp (170-180F) and pour cooler (approx. 150F). It works decent for me, but that's not to say it's going to work for everyone else. Why do I do that? Coconut waxes, like some paraffins (I don't work with paraffin, someone correct me if this is wrong) and palms, like to be poured hot. Soy waxes like to be poured cool. The maximum temperature I bring them to before pouring isn't as significant as the temperature to pour at, IMO. I mainly use those temperature to give me a bit of room so that I don't have to rush or the addition of FO doesn't drop the temperature below the pouring temp. Every component of significant quantity in the wax should be able to melt in the melt pool, which will reach a certain temp depending on the wax. That's the baseline that the wax should be melted to. The extra 40-50 degrees in my case is to provide wiggle room and ensure that everything in the wax that can be molten is molten before pouring. I also like slower cool downs, even if they're difficult and often result in wet spots, because I have terrible luck with fast cool downs causing sweating. That's just my process. When it comes to temperatures, particularly those at which to add the FO and pour, it's very much a personal guideline. It's not going to work for everyone. I suppose it's similar to baking cookies (sugar cookie cut-outs in particular). You could follow the directions in the recipe, and the cookies may turn out perfect... or they may spread out, have scorched bottoms, puff up too much, easily break apart, set up limp, etc. Why? Maybe the dough was overworked, maybe the oven was too hot (not every oven is the same, even if they're the same model), maybe the dough wasn't chilled enough, maybe the room was too warm, too humid, maybe the cookie sheet had a little residual greasiness, etc., etc., etc. Same thing with candles. Room temp, humidity, air pressure, drafts, uneven surfaces, rate of cooling, residue on the glass, contaminated with moisture, etc., etc., etc. Unfortunately, when blending, it requires more work to figure all of that out because there are no manufacturer guidelines for that particular blend to use as a basis. It requires a bit of testing. I've since moved away from 464 and coco83. C3 has been more reliable than 464, and Candlewic's coconut-apricot wax doesn't have the smell that the coco83 had.
  9. Kerven

    Lab & Co coconut wax

    Was your previous wax the Candlewic coconut oil wax, by any chance? I noticed it was removed from their site just before I was going to give it a try.
  10. Kerven

    Lab & Co coconut wax

    They admit to discoloration in the wax? Is that before (like when going rancid) or after the burn? A wax as pricey as that should have antioxidants in it. Maybe it's the wooden wick causing it.
  11. Kerven

    Organizing 1oz FOs

    Shoebox sized containers, like those above. I group them by FO type and purpose: holiday season (Christmas, spices, leaves, etc.), tropical, fruits and berries, perfume/cologne, bakery/food, random, and empty bottles (to remind me that I might want to try them again). FO's I don't like get their own container. I'm not fond of simply tossing them in the trash so they either get used in testing or continue to take up space (the worse scents) in the hoard until I can find some way to dispose of them.
  12. Kerven

    Black Friday Sales

    464 at cost? Eh... Might want to ask for lot #'s beforehand. Does TCS do anything for BF?
  13. Kerven

    C&S Paracoconut wax

    I've been waiting for All Seasons Wax to find its way to the US. Their waxes look promising! Now, if only we could convince a US supplier to submit a distribution enquiry...
  14. Kerven


    Measuring out an additive, adding it, and not a minute later forgetting whether or not I added any. Same with drops of liquid dye. "1, 2, 3... 3, 4, 6... 7, 8... Uh-oh." Edit: Forgetting wick stickers. That happened once. Forgetting (read: being lazy and not doing it) to tare, then ending up with the wrong amount and not knowing why. Moving a freshly poured candle after it had formed a thick skin, thick enough that it appeared mostly set. Tilted it a bit too much while carrying it, skin broke, wasn't fun cleaning up.
  15. I know how text can be taken the wrong way. It happens to me all the time elsewhere, especially when a friend perceives my texts as being rude or aggressive when they were anything but. That's one of the downsides to written word and can often lead to misunderstandings, which I sure we've all experienced at some point. That said, would it be too much to suggest that this be chalked up as a misunderstanding or agree to disagree, not read too far into what was written, and get back to comparing candlemaking notes/experiences? IMO, it's not worth the trouble to offend or be offended, and I'd like to think that no one intended for it. There are more pressing matters to discuss... such as: where can I find palm stearin, palm butter, no-stir palm (stearin fraction), 100% palm shortening in 5-7lb sizes at -reasonable- prices? 🤔 (Yes, I hijacked the thread.) Edit: About WV, I agree, probably altitude. Although, I can't say I've read anything about altitude's effects on wax but I imagine it's similar to water... air pressure.