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About Kerven

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  1. Kerven

    Organizing 1oz FOs

    Shoebox sized containers, like those above. I group them by FO type and purpose: holiday season (Christmas, spices, leaves, etc.), tropical, fruits and berries, perfume/cologne, bakery/food, random, and empty bottles (to remind me that I might want to try them again). FO's I don't like get their own container. I'm not fond of simply tossing them in the trash so they either get used in testing or continue to take up space (the worse scents) in the hoard until I can find some way to dispose of them.
  2. Kerven

    Black Friday Sales

    464 at cost? Eh... Might want to ask for lot #'s beforehand. Does TCS do anything for BF?
  3. Kerven

    C&S Paracoconut wax

    I've been waiting for All Seasons Wax to find its way to the US. Their waxes look promising! Now, if only we could convince a US supplier to submit a distribution enquiry...
  4. Kerven


    Measuring out an additive, adding it, and not a minute later forgetting whether or not I added any. Same with drops of liquid dye. "1, 2, 3... 3, 4, 6... 7, 8... Uh-oh." Edit: Forgetting wick stickers. That happened once. Forgetting (read: being lazy and not doing it) to tare, then ending up with the wrong amount and not knowing why. Moving a freshly poured candle after it had formed a thick skin, thick enough that it appeared mostly set. Tilted it a bit too much while carrying it, skin broke, wasn't fun cleaning up.
  5. I know how text can be taken the wrong way. It happens to me all the time elsewhere, especially when a friend perceives my texts as being rude or aggressive when they were anything but. That's one of the downsides to written word and can often lead to misunderstandings, which I sure we've all experienced at some point. That said, would it be too much to suggest that this be chalked up as a misunderstanding or agree to disagree, not read too far into what was written, and get back to comparing candlemaking notes/experiences? IMO, it's not worth the trouble to offend or be offended, and I'd like to think that no one intended for it. There are more pressing matters to discuss... such as: where can I find palm stearin, palm butter, no-stir palm (stearin fraction), 100% palm shortening in 5-7lb sizes at -reasonable- prices? 🤔 (Yes, I hijacked the thread.) Edit: About WV, I agree, probably altitude. Although, I can't say I've read anything about altitude's effects on wax but I imagine it's similar to water... air pressure.
  6. Would still take recommended pour temps with a bit of skepticism. We already know that weather, humidity, drafts, etc. can impact the pour. While the suggested pour temps may work under some conditions they're not sure-fire. There's a certain amount of trial and error to find what works for your particular set of variables. Otherwise, it would be too easy, and nothing is ever that easy (tongue in cheek).
  7. What sort of jars? If straight sided, like status or tumblers, pop them in the freezer (if you didn't use wick stickers or adhesive) and the wax should pop out. If the jars have narrow necks, I don't have much to suggest because I experienced the same problem. Tried the oven, hot water baths, coffee mug warmers (the exact same product is sometimes sold as candle jar warmers/melters). Broke/shattered several jars. Gave up. The warmer worked the best but it took -forever- for one jar and I wasn't about to line the counter with twenty of them. I guess a griddle on a very low setting could work - similar to preheating the jars.
  8. When I started with soy I had the worse time with lumpy, bumpy, ugly tops and wet spots. Tried the cardboard box method and it worked surprisingly well. Just flip a box over the candles and leave it there while they cool overnight. I don't know why or how it works but it does (most of the time).
  9. Here's an interesting post about FO binding (or lack of) in waxes. In short, it should be fine, but make sure you stir it well to fully incorporate the FO and dye. My perspective is that the main reason to heat to 185F is to ensure that all components of the wax have been melted. Some waxes have additives with melting points above 160F.
  10. Kerven

    Does anyone sell Poo Spray?

    I didn't know they had an "original" scent but meant original as in the first toilet spray of that kind. Their site states that they use essential oils and natural compounds. Nothing harsh, parabens, phthalates, aerosol, formaldehyde, petroleum distillates, ethanol, and benzene. It's specific about the ethanol. Curiosity has me wondering if that's because there could another alcohol in it. Isopropyl alcohol, perhaps? The recipes that use glycerin might be hitting something with the consistency. Poo-Pourri seemed like a very thin lotion - not quite watery but not creamy either - the last time I saw a bottle. Water, isopropyl alcohol, glycerin, EO, polysorbate 20, maybe a non-ionic PEG surfactant... AFAIK, EO + polysorbate-20 added to water will create a milky liquid. Whether or not it holds and doesn't separate over time, IDK, but maybe that's why it says to shake.
  11. Kerven

    Overheated 464?

    I think the main problem with heating too high is that some additives could start to degrade along with the oils, which may be more vulnerable to oxidation and polymerization at high temps. I wouldn't go beyond 200F with 464 or any commonly used plant-based wax. Hot throw has been a problem with 464 for a while. It's definitely the wax. Still not certain what about the wax is causing such diminished throws - maybe a new additive or too much additive (do they use vybar in 464?).
  12. Kerven

    Does anyone sell Poo Spray?

    Supposedly, the "original" forms a very thin layer on the surface of the water, and anything passing through that layer is coated with the product. I think I read somewhere that it also helps prevent film buildup and unsightly rings within the bowl - probably because of the surfactants in it. ... and ya'll ninja'd me while I was writing that.
  13. It really depends on the wax and technique. You can pour some waxes hot and leave them to cool slowly. Other waxes need to be poured cool and hit/not hit with a fan. Then again, some waxes can handle being poured hot and rapidly cooled. There's no universal guideline for pouring temps and rate of cooling because each wax is going to be different. Manufacturer/supplier recommendations are... iffy, in my experience. They're rarely updated and no one really knows what conditions were present when they came up with those numbers. In short, if you're pouring too hot or too cold, yet remaining within the recommended range, then the recommended range may be flawed or not suitable for your set of conditions. Wasn't sure if this was straight paraffin or a parasoy so I took a peek at Candlewic's page. The listed pouring temp is 145-150F, which is what I was going to suggest. If 170F+ is causing problems, try that range (if you haven't already).
  14. Does it irritate anyone else when shipping costs as much as the order or more. Then, when you receive the box, about >40% of its contents are packing peanuts that have been dumped in on top of everything. Not some on the bottom, some on the sides, some on top. Just dumped on top to keep things from rattling because the box was so needlessly large.
  15. Kerven

    Wick Testing

    The ECO's look good. Rate of consumption looks a little high - not unusual for that wick series when used in coconut wax - compared to the others. The ECO 6 is bright! I've had the most luck with ECO in coconut waxes, although I haven't had much luck with getting them to work well in straight coconut wax or blends with smaller percentages of soy. I usually have to add upwards of 50% soy or additives, unfortunately. What did you think of them after the first burn? The CDN 4 looks like it performed well, somewhere between the ECO 4 and 6. I'm curious to see what it does on the second burn.