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About Kerven

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  1. Jojoba beads for the sprinkles? Would they survive the heat? Maybe made entirely from M&P?
  2. Coozies should be great for slowing down cooling, especially so for palm. I tried using them once but had to make felt sleeves since they were too small for the jars I was using.
  3. I'm using this AMIR scale . It goes down to .01g, so about .0035oz, although I've only used it for measurements above .01oz. Until I got this scale, I didn't realize just how difficult it was to precisely measure ingredients... it still is. My previous scale went down to .1oz. As for the AMIR scale, as far as I can tell , it's accurate. I haven't used calibration weights or anything to test it, but so far my 4oz testers with additives in amounts of 1% have turned out as expected. At that price, if it does act up, it'll be easy to replace. Oooh, I didn't know Lotioncrafter had a budget scale. Going to have to take a look at that.
  4. Due to the ingredients in coco83, it's probably going to retain some of the stickiness in percentages greater than 50. 50% coco83 and 50% soy (I prefer C3 for this blend but find the HT is a little lacking - will be testing it with C1 soon) is soft but not too sticky. A little stearic or vybar could harden it some more. I haven't tested coconut waxes with vybar, so I'm curious to see if it can help bind some of that sticky, greasy excess. Palm wax is good for blending with coconut waxes as well. Expect to use 20% palm wax or greater... and it may crystallize a little on the surface, although, since you're using clamshells I imagine it'll set up fast and not crystallize nearly as much if at all.
  5. Paraffin. Type of paraffin probably varies (I saw some with mottling in the video). Here's an older thread on the topic.
  6. Interesting that so many of the coconut waxes have been sold out for some time now. Didn't word have it that Accu-Blend was relocating and production has been put on hold? I wonder if it's related to the shortage.
  7. I'm not sure typical beeswax will perform the same as what I'm using. From what I've read, it should be hard and not pliable. That (being pliable) seems to be an indicator of moisture contamination or cutting with oils. The original supplier appears to have changed their product packaging so I'm wondering if they're offering a different product as well.
  8. A wick sticker and liberal amount of good quality duct tape or the metallic tape (I forget the name of it) worked for me. One thing I did for working with waxes that need slow cooldowns was to make double layer felt sleeves to slide over the jars/molds before pouring.
  9. WSP sells some natural fragrance oils, I think. They're costly. EOs generally don't perform well in waxes. You could try using certain solvents, antioxidants and such to help them perform better in wax. I'm not very familiar on the subject so I can't say for certain if that would have a positive effect, but it's worth looking in to. The EOs will still be heavier than synthetic volatile aroma chemicals, so the throw might not be as strong as with FOs. EOs also have a tendency to degrade (or catch fire...) when exposed to heat - another reason for an antioxidant - and flame. Some EOs come with solvents in them to help them blend with the carrier oil/filler you're not supposed to know is there... That said, it's possible to include EOs in FOs. Just about all of Candlescience's have EOs or substances extracted from EOs in them. Rustic Escentuals just had a survey asking about natural fragrances and essential oils. I'd keep an eye on them over the year to see if they eventually stock some "natural" EO-based fragrances.
  10. I agree as well. For me, it's been fantastic in palm and coconut waxes.
  11. I don't work much with beeswax and when I do it's for blending. A recent project has me working with it because it has the pliability I need. However, after some reading I've come to believe that my beeswax may not be typical beeswax. This bag of wax is about a year old and came from Cal Candle Supply. It should be very hard, shouldn't it? I can smash, roll, and otherwise shape mine between my fingers. The actual pieces resemble flattened droplets or melted pastilles... not unlike the pictures of Easy Beads wax. There is no beeswax scent but that could be due to it being a refined/bleached beeswax (it's still somewhat off-white). The most noticeable oddity so far is that, after blending with a softer material, the resulting blend is much harder than either of the original materials. Could there be moisture in the beeswax? Is this normal for beeswax?
  12. Candlewic and Candles & Supplies are, I think, about the same distance (Doylestown and Quakertown, Penn.) from Buffalo. Shipping should take a day or two. Candlewic, last I checked, offered a sampler of soy waxes that included soy-125, C3, and 464 (it might be 415). Edit: It's soy-125, C3, 444, and 4 sets of wicks.
  13. Save On Scents Wellington Camden-Grey Southwest Candle Supply Northstar Swans Candles Maple Street Candle Company
  14. There are oils sold just for that - putting on a warmer. They're FO's blended with a carrier oil. You pour a little into the holding vessel, which is usually over a light bulb of some sort (they have plug-in versions).
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