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Problems with IGI 6006 in my 3" jars


urboholic

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Im going crazy and i have no idea what to do anymore, ive been testing a LOT with this wax in my 3" jars. Ive tried to single wick it with LX, ECO, CD, VRL, V, but non of them can give a melt pool that works. Ive started testing with double wicks but honestly i have no idea if the jar is considered to hot, after getting further down the jar (more than half way) that's when it gets really hot, but is that normal? im only using 6% FO. im really hoping you guys can give me some advise! when i double wick the jar i also get an amazing hot throw. but im guessing thats because of the single wick not being able to preform probably.  im located in the EU so i cant buy HTP wicks ATM.
what do you guys think about double wicking a 3" jar? also what wick burns cooler than eco? the ECO burns great with my wax and FO but ive found that double eco burns a tiny bit too hot (im guessing) :)

 

 

 

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Hi, I am new too, and was having the same problem. Ecos were smoking and CDs were not cutting it. I starting using LX wicks and it is a game changer. I will try and find the specific chart I have because since 6006 is not straight paraffin the numbers are different. I will try to find it and send it to you. I kept thinking the same thing it's a 3 inch jar how hard could it be. 

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OK, I attached it below, notice the note I bought a bunch of LX wicks and while they were getting me to where I needed to go, I found this chart and I have more coming. In the meanwhile I stripped all the color out of my candles because it just doesn't make sense. PS I am using an 8% fragrance load on what I was testing.  I hope this helps

LX wick chart.jpg

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Hello, newbie chandler here as well using 6006. I'm testing a 3.5" jar and I'm to the point of trying to double wick. This wax is extremely hard to get right. If you wanna PM, I can let you know some wicks I've tried thus far.

Edited by SageSlowdive
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I am by no means experienced, but I had the very same issue. On my 3 inch jars I had to go up, I am waiting for the larger ones to arrive. I am using 8% fragrance and the scent that is really giving me problems is bacon............who knows maybe it is made with fat or something. But I can tell you that it was a starting point. So I will use the specs for the 4 inch jar (that is what is said in the notes) And I thought the hard part of making candles would be the math! Good Luck.

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@LisaMG im trying the lx in my candles now, i have one going with an lx 18 and a lx 20 both in 3" jars. they have been running for about 2hrs now and this is what it looks like atm.

there is barely any change in the melt pool after 2hrs as you can see. this is the same result no matter what kind of wick i use. thats why im thinking double wick is my only option, but i dont know anymore haha. 6% FO

20210505_141405.jpg

20210505_145953.jpg

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6006 can be tricky to work with.  It burns down and then out, meaning it doesn't reach a full melt pool easily.  If you are trying to get a full melt pool on the first burn, you really just have to give that up.  There is no way to do it, especially in a tumbler style jar, without using a wick that will be way too big once the candle burns down.  
The best thing you can do to get the best burn is to allow the candle plenty of time to cure. I'd wait at least a week before test burning, but 2 weeks is better.  It'll give you fits it you try to burn it too soon.

I've used LX wicks a lot in 6006 and they do work reasonably well.  I'd recommend starting with an LX 20 in a 3" jar and adjusting up or down from there.  You should be able to wick most any FO in a 3" container with sizes LX 18 - LX 22.  Don't forget LX 21, which isn't as widely available as the other sizes, but it's nice to have in your wick arsenal.
I prefer Eco wicks in 6006, but they are not as forgiving as some of the other types. Being just one size off can be ugly, so they can be tricky, but they self trim pretty well and usually 1 or 2 sizes are all I need to wick any FO.  CD, HTP and zinc also work reasonably well once you land on the correct sizes.

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1 hour ago, LisaMG said:

I am by no means experienced, but I had the very same issue. On my 3 inch jars I had to go up, I am waiting for the larger ones to arrive. I am using 8% fragrance and the scent that is really giving me problems is bacon............who knows maybe it is made with fat or something. But I can tell you that it was a starting point. So I will use the specs for the 4 inch jar (that is what is said in the notes) And I thought the hard part of making candles would be the math! Good Luck.

Bacon scents often have a smoke element. Smoke aroma chemicals, even in the tiniest amount, can be very difficult with burn as many contain clogging elements. 

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21 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

6006 can be tricky to work with.  It burns down and then out, meaning it doesn't reach a full melt pool easily.  If you are trying to get a full melt pool on the first burn, you really just have to give that up.  There is no way to do it, especially in a tumbler style jar, without using a wick that will be way too big once the candle burns down.  
The best thing you can do to get the best burn is to allow the candle plenty of time to cure. I'd wait at least a week before test burning, but 2 weeks is better.  It'll give you fits it you try to burn it too soon.

I've used LX wicks a lot in 6006 and they do work reasonably well.  I'd recommend starting with an LX 20 in a 3" jar and adjusting up or down from there.  You should be able to wick most any FO in a 3" container with sizes LX 18 - LX 22.  Don't forget LX 21, which isn't as widely available as the other sizes, but it's nice to have in your wick arsenal.
I prefer Eco wicks in 6006, but they are not as forgiving as some of the other types. Being just one size off can be ugly, so they can be tricky, but they self trim pretty well and usually 1 or 2 sizes are all I need to wick any FO.  CD, HTP and zinc also work reasonably well once you land on the correct sizes.

I found the Eco's smoked liked crazy but then again, maybe it is that Bacon fragrance, it seems to be stubborn. You are scaring me when you say 6006 is tricky, lolo I thought it was a beginner wax. I read that the HTP were changing or at this point difficult to find, so I didn't get any. Testing is painful enough without changes or shortages. That is why I am using the LX wicks. How long do you usually cure your 6006?

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Just now, TallTayl said:

Bacon scents often have a smoke element. Smoke aroma chemicals, even in the tiniest amount, can be very difficult with burn as many contain clogging elements. 

damn well thanks for that. I have read a lot of your posts lol. glad you jumped in on this. To be honest I was suspect of the bacon fragrance. You should see the smoke I got from the Eco.........................I was like "Hell No" I am not doing this or painting my ceilings. 

 

 

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@bfroberts yeah ive noticed that the wax burn downwards and then out witch is frustrating. bur i guess thats just how this wax works :)
what kind of jar have you found to be the best for 6006? 
normally i leave the jar for at least 5 days and sometime longer. but i find the LX wick to mushroom like crazy with my FO, however the ECO wicks are probably the best i have tried so far, i dont know why but they burn quite well with no soot and no mushroom, but the ECO wicks dosent work for me when going single so i use double eco one's in my 3" jar and the jar dosent go above 170F so i guess that works :)?

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1 hour ago, LisaMG said:

I found the Eco's smoked liked crazy but then again, maybe it is that Bacon fragrance, it seems to be stubborn. You are scaring me when you say 6006 is tricky, lolo I thought it was a beginner wax. I read that the HTP were changing or at this point difficult to find, so I didn't get any. Testing is painful enough without changes or shortages. That is why I am using the LX wicks. How long do you usually cure your 6006?

I cure for a minimum of 2 weeks.  It really does burn better after it's cured.  This wax changes significantly.  In my experience, it often just will not burn well when it's too freshly poured, which makes wicking very tricky if you test too soon.  

 

It's not super tricky.  I think the biggest problems are that people get tripped up trying to get that full melt pool, and 6006 just doesn't cooperate.  And also people don't think it should need to cure, so that step gets skipped.

I've got one really difficult FO that I use fairly often.  It just will not burn at all until the wax has had plenty of cure time.  And every once in a while you'll find one that just needs a different type of wick. Fortunately with 6006 there are multiple options. 

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1 hour ago, urboholic said:

@bfroberts yeah ive noticed that the wax burn downwards and then out witch is frustrating. bur i guess thats just how this wax works :)
what kind of jar have you found to be the best for 6006? 
normally i leave the jar for at least 5 days and sometime longer. but i find the LX wick to mushroom like crazy with my FO, however the ECO wicks are probably the best i have tried so far, i dont know why but they burn quite well with no soot and no mushroom, but the ECO wicks dosent work for me when going single so i use double eco one's in my 3" jar and the jar dosent go above 170F so i guess that works :)?

I use several jar types, and they all work, but mason jars and the small straight sided jars are probably the easiest I've found to wick.  Tumblers and tins are harder because in the early burns no heat is really held inside the jar to help that melt pool along.
I don't double wick my 3" jars.  I don't double anything under 3.5".  The long cures really do help in those bigger jars.  There are just so many factors involved, and sometimes a combo just won't seem to work out no matter what you do. 

 

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1 hour ago, bfroberts said:

I cure for a minimum of 2 weeks.  It really does burn better after it's cured.  This wax changes significantly.  In my experience, it often just will not burn well when it's too freshly poured, which makes wicking very tricky if you test too soon.  

 

It's not super tricky.  I think the biggest problems are that people get tripped up trying to get that full melt pool, and 6006 just doesn't cooperate.  And also people don't think it should need to cure, so that step gets skipped.

I've got one really difficult FO that I use fairly often.  It just will not burn at all until the wax has had plenty of cure time.  And every once in a while you'll find one that just needs a different type of wick. Fortunately with 6006 there are multiple options. 

 

I've wondered about this a lot too.. does this apply to all other waxes (in my case, coconut, which some claim has "NO" cure time at all. which, sure i've experienced good HT after just 24 hours with some FOs but is that really okay to function that way)? I suppose it's, as usual, a matter of testing for yourself to find out. But it just seems misleading when the manufacturer/supplier instructions say little to no cure time but the general rule of thumb is you should always test after a longer cure time. 

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3 hours ago, urboholic said:

@bfroberts Yeah some combinations dosent seem to work in the bigger jars. In average, how many 4 hr burns would you say it take for a single wick to get a melt pool in 3" jars?
just so i have something to compare to :)

Based on how I like to wick my candles, I'd probably shoot for a FMP on the 3rd burn.

ETA:  It really just depends on the container. A lot of factors to consider. 

Edited by bfroberts
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