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friendlysoutherner's Achievements


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  1. I use the metal stabilizer bars to hold my wicks and place and will randomly get holes that look like this too. I never thought to attribute it to my pour temp (because I do the same temp every time, and the holes are unpredictable)- but i do notice it doesn't happen as much if I babysit my candles and remove the metal bars once they have about halfway cooled. I always figured it had something to do with the metal getting really hot and not allowing the surface directly below it to cool evenly? Do you mean just wooden sticks in general, or do you think it has something to do with the stick/bar blocking some air flow for even temp cooling on the surface?
  2. I've wondered about this a lot too.. does this apply to all other waxes (in my case, coconut, which some claim has "NO" cure time at all. which, sure i've experienced good HT after just 24 hours with some FOs but is that really okay to function that way)? I suppose it's, as usual, a matter of testing for yourself to find out. But it just seems misleading when the manufacturer/supplier instructions say little to no cure time but the general rule of thumb is you should always test after a longer cure time.
  3. I realize you already said you're ready to move on from this wax, but I'm just here to reiterate how terrible the seepage with this wax is to warn off any other persons who might be considering this wax!! My experience of seepage with this wax was HORRENDOUS. And I called C&S customer service for troubleshooting several times and spoke to multiple different folks... interestingly they all gave me different stories and conflicting suggestions and none of them really worked. My best luck was actually heating closer to 200 (even though one time it scorched the wax and turned PINK!!), adding FO immediately and pouring immediately. I tried melting, adding and pouring at every combo of every temp ever... and the seepage was unpredictable. I also went down to well below 7% fo and it still seeped AND didn't have much of a HT. After trying multiple different coco waxes I'm about ready to move to Hawaii to start harvesting coconuts and make it myself🤪
  4. I also finished my (huge!) batch ordered a few weeks ago. Not going back at all lol. Finally got my hands on some coco83 again! But will probably explore the discussions here as my big boss is interested in trying other options after the disaster seepage this coconut brew caused lol.
  5. Most of mine have holes/craters/air pockets ("snot bubbles" 🤪 whatever you want to call them!) on the surface as well - but the heat gun doesn't seem to get rid of it! Driving me crazy! I also have some cracking and can't seem to make the surface "perfect" (I have had a fair bit of bloom or frosting as well). I've started to try doing a second pour on every candle and that seems to help... but the perfectionist in me won't let it go! And the sweating!! I can't manage to figure it out. What temp are you adding FO and then pouring at? I've tried just about every option and can't seem to get rid of surface air bubbles and sweating. It hasn't been nearly as bad of puddles as my first photos, but even just a day or two into curing I get little beads of sweat. I'm down to a 7-7.5% FL. Starting to realize this is much more soy than coconut and isn't exactly the smoothest transition from coco-83 by comparison..
  6. the one that seeped in the photos is Flaming Candle's Sandalwood Vanilla with CS Mulled Cider and Chestnuts I did have a few with CS caramelized pralines that sweat a tiny bit, but not nearly as bad. (is it obvious I'm working on my fall fragrances?🤣)
  7. Thanks for the response! From what I can tell they don't seem grainy. But, they also aren't as perfectly pretty as coco83 always was 😆 For the second photo (black pots with seepage) - I am certain I didn't use more than 9% FO (it was somewhere between 7.5-8.5% - these pots are about 9 oz so for each one I use about .75 oz FO + 8.25 oz wax). My main thought would be this was the last round I did where the wax was over heated for a prolonged time (close to 200 degrees for well over 24 hours). I was adding FO immediately, stirring for about 1 minute, then pouring immediately. Thing is - the seepage didn't happen until a day or 2 after it was set and had been heat gunned. This particular batch (unlike the other photo) is a fragrance blend, and it's from 2 different suppliers. Could it be that this wax isn't friendly with all FOs? But I certainly agree with you in that I need to pour much cooler. As for the bubbles, I think I am dealing with both. The top photo showing the one burning best represents the bubbles at that point- they don't really appear until the candle is lit, and then it is champange-y. However, when I use the heat gun on some others it is typically bubbles that seem like cavities - bubbles rise to the surface squeezing out right by the wick and then cool on the surface unless I chase them down constantly. Hopefully this photo represents that difference well.
  8. Finally ready to be brave and share my results! Switched completely to the C&S coco brew as I was only using coco83 before it disappeared for so long 🤪 I've performed many preliminary tests before selling any, and lo and behold on the second batch of candles I was putting up for sale I encountered ALL the issues that didn't arise in testing!! I did reach out to C&S and they were very helpful, so here's what I've got- Tested heating to 170, 180, 190, even 200 and 210 (that was more of an accident lol) for different rounds. Added FO at 160, 170, 180, 190 and 200 (respectively). Some I stirred for at least 2 minutes, but started noticing SO MANY air bubbles when I test burned, so I did another round of stirring less than 30 seconds (which is not even a thing, and I still had plenty of tiny air bubbles when burning). I'm thinking in ALL my testing and pouring for sale, I'm pouring too soon after stirring, and I also haven't poked any of these at all. This also means if I use heat gun for smoothing out the tops, all those tiny air bubbles cool on the surface (see photo). Another issue I've almost always had is frosting on the top. It kind of goes away after using heat gun on the top, but this just brings up the air bubbles to the surface. Then I'm constantly fighting them away with the heat gun just for a perfect top! Lastly, I used the heat gun on a batch where I overheated the wax and it was scorched and turned almost a peachy creamy color. I came in this morning and there was SO MUCH SWEAT!! Can't believe it! (photo #2) Any tips or feedback from your experience (even with other similar waxes? I can tell this one has WAY more soy than coco83, which is the only wax I've ever worked with).
  9. Back again with another question this time regarding pouring - but again still only using 100% accu pure coco 83 beads in these jars https://www.webstaurantstore.com/libbey-209-16-oz-customizable-can-glass-case/551209.html Been having lots of issues with adhesion, and I'm sure it's a number of factors but I'd just like to hear some opinions... I've had to basically get a heat gun after the entire candle, almost totally re-melting the whole thing from top to bottom... on 30+ candles a day... Before pouring, I'm not pre-heating the jars, room is kept at about 69 degrees 24/7, not pouring with jars sitting on a wire rack or anything (just a wood table top). What temperature would you say is best for adding FO to this type of wax? What temp would you say is best for pouring with coco wax? Is pre-heating the jars absolutely necessary? It's just that some days I have poured the wax+FO mix at 200 degrees, some days at 170 and the results are never consistent with adhesion on the sides of these glass jars- sometimes the ones poured really hot give me no problems, sometimes pouring at a lower temp, even after using the heat gun on the whole candle, the adhesion is never perfect. Any thoughts or other things to consider?
  10. Thanks so much for all the replies and tips! Here's my update (see photo): testing with the same jars as linked in my original post. I'm wondering if the thinness of the walls (+ the nature of glass itself, along with what TallTayl mentioned that the top opening is tapered a bit) is impacting how poorly these are performing. Again, only using 100% coco83 easy beads with about an 8% FL. So far I've tested HTP 83 and HTP 73. 83 was an easy no, but after 73 started off really well it seemed to get very sooty further down so I've poured a few with the HTP 63 (initially it seems almost too small.. but starting to do better than 73 when it gets towards the bottom 1/3 of the jar). Also tested with CD 8 and CD 6 to compare. CD 8 was also an easy no, but the 6 seems to be comparable to the HTP 73. CD just mushrooms SO BAD in comparison to HTP no matter the size or how often we trim. BUT the main thing I am here to share is this photo- our original problem was how ugly the jars were with a CD 10, but here it seems the HTP 73 (right) is sooting more than the CD 6(left). Any thoughts? Just trying to make the best choice if people are going to be paying money for these 🤪
  11. Hi all! New to the server here, but I've been reading around for a while and have found so much helpful information! I've read plenty of discussions pertaining to my question, but I figured I'd start the conversation anyways Just started working at a small business that sells candles- so a lot of things were already set in place before me but I'm starting to explore why things are done the way they are and brainstorm for different solutions. We sell candles in these jars: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/libbey-209-16-oz-customizable-can-glass-case/551209.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI86Gqh8DS6gIVBI7ICh29qQZwEAAYASAAEgJ2KvD_BwE and only use coconut 83 wax. We've been using CD 10 wicks- but I've started to learn that these may not be the best for this type of wax and diameter (huge mushrooming, even with diligent wick trimming) etc. I've just poured a batch trying HTP wicks of various sizes as we've never used these before- will update on these after they cure. (secondary question before I even ask the first- how long do you recommend waiting to cure just to do a wick test if I'm not concerned about HT?) Any other thoughts/recommendations for any types of wick with this jar and wax combo?
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