TallTayl

Loose gloves, IME, are more of a hazard than a protection when soaping. They bump things and can trap caustic in the loose folds. I either use tight fitting disposable latex (or similar) or no gloves at all. A few of the worst burns i have suffered were because of poorly fitting gloves. Not wearing gloves really dries out hands. Like parchment dry. No matter how much lotion or balm i apply after my hands are a mess when i don't use gloves.

This is not the article i was searching for, but it is pretty good (and oh so long, lol) http://www.sasolwax.com/sasolwaxmedia/Downloads/Kerzendokumente/Sonstige/Temperature+_+A+Hot+Issue+Print+Version.pdf

I'm searching for an article from a wax manufacturer that visually explained it. Basically, wax molecules expand when heated. I think we have all seen how many types of wax shrink as they cool in the containers or molds we use. Heating wax to the manufacturer's recommended temperature (not necessarily the retailer's/reseller's) expand the wax molecules to encapsulate fragrance molecules of different sizes into a structured matrix as the wax cools. This helps ensure the two substances are well mixed and should prevent the fragrance molecules from falling out of suspension, pooling, forming droplets, etc because the wax is holding the matrix well together.

I would love to hear how it goes!

For lower DOS prone soap, keep your combined Linoleic and Linolenic acids combined under 15%. Many people use canola, soy and even corn successfully as long as the entire formula is balanced and the linoleic and linolenic totals less than that 15%. Another nice sub for olive is High Oleic Sunflower Oil. Or Avocado oil-which i love more than olive.

For lotion, i started the same as soap. One oil. One emulsifier. The heat and hold part at first seemed intimidating, as was figuring out HLB (you think SAP calcs are hard?) lol. Once i figured out how easy it is by actually making a few it's a quick dead easy. I totally agree with your experience about how hard things posted on different blogs can seem!

Like any other craft, you learn technique, then tackle more complex steps. Master painters start with strokes by different brushes. Cake artists master the tips. When you have a good foundation all the experimenting goes much faster - and often more successfully and more inexpensively. I read all the time on facebook and other fora where people ask for a "tried and true" recipe for something. Could be soap, lotion, chocolate cake, bread, whatever. Many of those requests are to save the asker some cash. Tried and true by MY hands does not guarantee success for YOUR hands. Only by investing the time and resources will your hands develop the skill. My hands are betraying me right now at the potters wheel. I watch videos and read forums for hours, but darn it all i can't seem to make my hands work the same as the instructors. If i spend enough time at it they will develop a skill and style, but no way would my work ever be the same as the instructors. And I am AOK with that.

Thanks When cut into 1 inch thick bars they start at about 5.2 ounces. The end up at 4.5-4.7 usually. I do a pretty steep water discount.

A good, basic formula that is slow enough for beginners, but quick enough for more experienced is the simple holy trinity: Palm, Olive, and Coconut one third of each is common. Or 50% olive 25% coconut and 25% palm is a sweet variation. The 50% olive, 2% Palm and 25% coconut is the formula I use for my Lather Lovers Swaps. We use additives like beer, goat milk, kefir, you name it and the recipe works faithfully for all, while producing a darn nice bar of soap. You can also use the same exact formula with different superfat levels to see how tiny changes can make a big difference without breaking the bank. I tend to think many newbies get started with challenging combos that create a perfect storm before really understanding the timing or how some variables can compound little problems. Simple formulas to start also help develop the "Feel" master soapmakers have. That feel helps them quickly improvise when things start to go haywire (acceleration for example). ETA: You can replace Palm with Lard for another simple, comparable formula that is even more forgiving with accelerating ingredients. =)

I think it comes down to personal preference, really. I use different wicks, depending on the wax. For beeswax, square braid works best for my wax and my pillar sizes. For Palm, I prefer CDN or CSN series wicks.CD works well for me also. Generally speaking, I always twist my wicks to keep them burning evenly around the candle.

I use soap guild.

Quoted to remove the font that i could not read....There is no shortage of bad information on the web. Work by weight, not volume. 16 weighed ounces of solid wax is the same as 16 weighed ounces of melted wax.

celestial sea (moonworks, now on Pure Fragrance Oils) is not bad.

Wheat berry and cream from scent works was the closest i found.

It is always in the top two or three for hair care and perfume for me. I have tried them all and liked the Scent Works version the best of all. When that supplier dried up i had it duped so i never run out.

I am with you JC. Plus, i mainly use seamless aluminum, which are not usable with magnets. A short strip of metal ducting tape (not duct tape) works 99.999% of the time with all of the pillar waxes i use including beeswax. A whole years worth of that tape is like $10.

Can anyone else get to the PureFragranceOils.com site? Are they moving, or is it gone?

Congrats! Hope you clean up!

I have never been asked to provide more than that at any event. I have heard a few venues require more, but i personally have never been asked.

Trying to remember if i bought a "cheap thrill" of that one. Sometimes the best vanilla is a blend of many failed individuals. It was like that for me with sandalwood.

Tonka bean has many of the same notes as vanilla. It's kind of hard to find though the Eo/absolute got ungodly expensive and the FO source dried up. A real vanilla bean has hundreds of scent and flavor components (which is why when you compare artificial vanilla extract with the real deal the artificial one tastes flat). Most of the vanilla FO i have smelled are buttery, like French Vanilla. As a vanilla lover with bottles infusing all the time, i like more realistic vanilla. Which have you tried? Brambleberry Vanilla Select is nice, not so buttery. I use it mostly in blends for CP. Sweetcakes Vanilla Fruity is a different take on traditional vanilla. It is supposedly non discoloring. Sweetcakes White Vanilla is also supposedly non discoloring. I don't love it OOB, but have smelled way worse. Sweetcakes Special Edition is the nicest OOB of the three IMO. I have to soap all three of these to see how they "really" are.

This is the very most important thing in a nutshell. I have been tossing around the idea of writing a calculator to help make these complex calculations simpler. The way IFRA works is backward, you have to know the irritant to calculate your total limits in a blend. I would like to do it the other way around and list the whole oil with a summary showing all the components in a nifty table. Eugenol is just one of many potential irritants to limit. With the hoards of people into "all natural essential oils" for everything the need sure is there! I think we have all cringed a bit when reading that people use x% of a low usage rate essence from one vendor and a similar essence from another in the same batch to "get around" the limitations. As if, some how, those two don't add together red hot cinnamon bits is not how i generally like to start my day

I get the standard $1m through the Guild.

That is a 2.5 wide mold. Some call it a tall skinny. It was my original bar dimension when i hung out my shingle 8 years ago. then i went wide for a while. Then square, then back to tall. I love this size so much more than all the others.Here's the inspiration for Paisley's blend: http://scentersquare.blogspot.com/2015/03/paisleys-woods.html

I have tried that so many times and end up with undissolved KOH in glycerin that turns brown. Not sure if it is because of my KOH or the asC glycerin or a combo of both. The little water added makes it dissolve no problem.