TallTayl

I have noticed similar with C3. Sometimes the flakes are nice and (forgive me) moist. Some are brittle and dry. Same with eco soya pillar blend. It's always a good idea to make a small sample candle with each lot, just to be sure.

My typical beeswax silicone molded pour is in the 22 oz neighborhood with varying degrees of detail. I have never had the results you seem to get. I use room temp silicone molds with no release. I don't take wax temps, but i know it varies. The surfaces are smooth and shiny. One smooth pour or you get lines. Too cold you get jump lines.

The initial deep MP could have actually caused the later problems in the container. Weird, i know. A lot depends on your wax, but I use CD12-14 in tin containers that are 3"+ wide. Tin releases the heat easily. In a small glass jar that insulates the heat, that large of a wick could compound the problems you see. I use Cd4 in a ceramic jar of about that width with my wax. And the Fo could be creating wicking issues. I would actually make an unscented jar with each of your wicks-the Cd8, cd9 and cd10 to compare the burns first. Sometimes the fo is just not worth the headache.

My soap and candle shop is normally chilly year-round. When the big melters and summer dehumidifiers are on it can heat up a bit, so i run at least one good size fan to rapidly circulate the air. I have to stay mindful of air pockets in the rapidly cooled candles, especially when cooling around fan moved air. Bath and beauty products, like solid shampoo and conditioner, get fast chilled in a freezer. The rapid cool creates a quick shrink, shiny surfaces and easy release from molds.

Part of crystal formation is the rate of cooling. Slow cool, big crystals. Quick cool, much smaller crystals. When i cool my soy candles rapidly they are usually nice and shiny, morror smooth. When cooling my soy candles sloooowly, frost and unshiny tops. Same happens when making products for bath & Body, food, etc.

Ding ding ding! When they burn as they should, throw well and last an expected amount of time people return over and over and stop questioning the price.

As someone who has had a glass jar catch fire and explode sending shards feet away from the base, I wick more conservatively than most typically suggest. When I see FB groups preach that the MP must reach the edges within the first hour or two regardless of the wax or container I cringe... From those pics, I would choose the smaller wick at this time. The first one is pretty deep on the first burn. As others have written, let it sit for a week or two before lighting. The difference is sometimes dramatic. Burn the testers all the way to the end extinguishing between measured burns. If all seems OK, make another, cure it and then prepare for a powerburn. I can't count how many people have told me their great intentions timing candle burns in their homes, but then they got distracted and forgot, or fell asleep allowing the candles to burn all day... No way I want a fire on my conscience.

Trappeur, that 2+ week observation is eye-opening, isn't it? I lit a soy tin that was a year or more old and was really surprised how differently it burned than even at 2 weeks. That wax got HARD.

Over night usually. I run my test burns during the day, photographing at intervals to keep records because my mind is a sieve this time of year.

That seems high to me. Questions I ask: Does the venue attract people in my market segment? Does my brand fit with their show? If i advertise to my customers, are they likely to go? How many people attend annually? What demographic attends? Is it a sales venue, or one where people are picking up ideas (like a bridal or garden show) Where will my booth be physically located within the show? What size is the space? Will i need two spaces, for instance. What other entertainment is there? What is the competition? Is it juried hand made only, or resellers? What time of the year is the show.... Any major gift holidays close? What commissions do they expect over and above the entry fee? I usually attend at least one year to scope it out and see how many actual shopping bags are in hand walking around-to see if people are really buying or browsing. The biggest event i do runs 19 days/weekends only. It attracts over 300,000 people/roughly 15,000 people a day. It took a good 3 years to build the base and make it profitable. There are definite selling trends (busy versus non busy hours, days when we hang around doing nothing versus selling like mad).

Have you ever filtered your beeswax? Maybe there's something in it? Sometimes i have to melt and run mine through felt to eliminate the organic bits that form as it heats. The frosting beeswax gets is bloom. It's way different from soy in that a little heat or humidity eliminates it easily.

With concrete a vibrating table does the trick. Would that work for gel? A friend made a small table using a palm sander as the vibrating motor.

I used the tubes right away because they looked so incredibly cool. It has been a while, but i think they are designed to work with the traditional wick to give a boost. I just shoved them right on in to the container around the poured wick. It was neat at first, but in my short tins i don't remember being wowed.

Bought the full sample pack of their wicks. They performed well in my soy candles in initial tests. Trying to decide if i want to stay in that direction or not.

I use the aerosol spray. In the shop now - the current one is actually not from Peak , but the last one was Peak and both work equally well. I hold the mold and can as far away from my face as possible, hold my breath, then Spray away from myself in 3 short bursts. Can't say I have ever noticed any white particles left behind in a mold like you see.. Sometimes the urethane ones hold on to little bits of wax, but not if they are well-sprayed before hand. What kind of mold material are you using? If you gently heat the mold with a heat gun (not so hot to melt the mold, but just the wax) do those bits melt? If it is just stck wax you may be able to use scrap wax to pour a few sacrifice pieces to get them off. Sometimes I submerge my sticky urethane in hot water to melt excess wax off. I really prefer the OOMOO or MoldMax silicones though.

Looks like it is mostly in the crevices. The larger flat surface areas are shiny. Could it be your wax is sticking in the creases? I spray silicone release agent ( i think the current can is from Peak) in a few of my molds when this happens. Seems to only happen on my urethane molds. The OOMOO and MoldMax silicone molds are fine with no release agent.

The perfumery does not specify their surfactant, but the polysorbates are good choices. For FO i use Poly 20 usually.

The Perfumery carries some. Al they are is fragrance blended with a surfactant to make them miscible with water. What are you planning to use them for?

Thanks Ubure &CB. It took years, but the whole line up finally has a cohesive look right down to labels. They are really jumping out for attention at the Big Faire this year without being in-your-face. Every scent has a description or story written on the label. It's kind of fun to hear my words being read aloud by patrons to others

I would keep burning further down the jar. About the half way point the convection created will change everything. Unlike many people, i don't fret about early hang up. If the flame is reasonable, and the HT is fine, don't change anything yet.

Both. Beeswax acts strangely when heated to high temps before pouring.it sticks and does not shrink the same way it does when poured at lower temps.

Cool mold! I don't get beeswax nearly that hot. About 150-160 is as high as I go. No vybar, it is not necessary. I never preheat my silicone molds. I sometimes DO use candle release spray in silicone molds, and always for metal molds.

Wood smoke from Sweetcakes is the best.

I got hit with that once. Peeved me off to no end. In my case the cc number i entered was rejected, so they had to key it in. I did not have a choice and the card number was perfectly good. It is in their terms and conditions, found it after it happened

Hip hip HUZZAH Claud!! So happy it helped with your formula.