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topofmurrayhill

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topofmurrayhill last won the day on June 21 2015

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    New York, NY

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  • Makes
    candles soap
  • Location
    New York City
  • Occupation
    Playing with fire
  • About You
    I make candles, soap and cat food.

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  1. Some fragrance oils will do that, though I guess it can depend on what wax they're in. Try the color stabilizer additive from Bitter Creek.
  2. By the way, I don't think you were using an aluminum pot alone, because it wouldn't get hot on an induction stove.
  3. I can't guess what every person can or cannot smell, but the wax alone SHOULD be odorless. I don't recall anyone previously having this experience. Even if you overheat materials like this, the smell is nothing like fuel.
  4. I can't say about something mixing into the wax, but I know the ingredients and formula for that blend and it's not possible to make the wax itself smell like that by heating it.
  5. There is more than one kind of tempering, so to begin with the conversation is useless unless we are all talking about the same thing. The tempering of chocolate is not relevant to this discussion. You can't do that with soy wax. The tempering described advocated in the past by forum user Stella52 that she did with C3 is useless and does nothing. It is a huge misunderstanding -- maybe of a chocolate technique -- to the point that it seems completely made up. You can melt your soy wax as many times as you like and it won't be tempered. Melting it until clear hits the reset button. You can increase the effectiveness of the slushy-pour by cooling the wax more quickly while applying a shear force with an immersion blender (being careful not to suck air from the surface). Putting the pour pot in a bowl of water while running the blender will speed the cooling, but take it out at the first hint of haze. Things will go very quickly once the wax starts to go opaque. You probably can't pour lower than 115 F using this technique with GW415. Once cool, keep the candles at a steady 85 F for 48 hours. This is mainly the part that the food industry refers to as tempering. It helps make the crystal structure of a solid fat (like soy wax) more stable so that subsequent temperature changes don't affect it. If possible, store the candles where they won't be subjected to a lot of temp fluctuations. Because of the nature of soy wax and limitations in how well we can control variables with this kind of product, there is no way to completely stabilize how your candles come out. Sooner or later they will change in appearance and maybe performance (for instance, they develop frost and the melt point of the wax can increase so they burn differently).
  6. You should be using CD instead of CDN and you will get a better burn. Less mushrooming, better self-trimming and a more predictable melt pool. CD 8 will probably do fine. For your first test, simply burn 3 or 4 hours at a time and see how it does. Getting a full melt pool near the top is unimportant. Hangup in the first half or more of the container is also fine, as it can disappear towards the bottom.
  7. Don't you get a lot of mushrooming with LX wicks in Comfort Blend? Probably not a good choice. Try HP or CD/Stabilo. The size and type of wick could have something to do with it.
  8. Well it can't be worse. Try it and see what you think. Soy does tend to have troubles with HT. Parasoy has additional stability advantages. Candles come out looking better and don't deteriorate over time.
  9. Do you still have a sample of the wicking that you can photograph? It's unfortunate they didn't tell you what they were selling. There was a specific type and size of wicking involved, but from the information we have it could be anything. Do you make pillar candles? I'm not sure which post of mine you were reading, but I might have been referring to plain old flat braided wicking. If that's it, you can easily get it in a variety of sizes and figure out which you were using. Hopefully your response will allow me to assist further.
  10. Yes, a picture would be helpful. Also a clarification on the amount of Vybar 260 you are using and the exact wax. If you mean 1/8 teaspoon, that is too little and adding more would likely solve your problem.
  11. I'm misery from New York! Welcome to the board.
  12. Gonna try it in the next day or two. Thanks all!
  13. This is a 4 year old thread, but let me take the opportunity to point out that you don't need to punch holes in Glass Glow. Wait until a thick crust of wax has hardened on top, the turn the candle upside down. That eliminates the voids that open up around the wick when you first light the candle. The top remains perfect.
  14. Hello! To be helpful, we would need to know what sort of candle you're making, and with what wax.
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