SheilaW

Love the look of those and your label is very classy looking.

Pillar palm wax does shrink a lot more than paraffin wax does. The wax weighs the same.

That is a good article, thanks for posting the link.

Is it a good dupe of the original??

I've noticed that men seem to like patch more than women.

Sounds to me like it's your wax mixture making the streaks. When you mix palm with paraffin sometimes the palm will show up in odd ways.

I have never heated mine at all. I blend shea oil and whip it at room temp.

I also feel your pain ! I tried everything I could think of to get rid of the air caverns and the only thing that works for me is to pour in thin layers ( no more than an inch thick ) I did the poke relief holes and re-pour ( repeatedly ), tried different pouring temps., warming jars or not, mixing with other waxes, and all to no avail because I would still get the freakin air pockets. I was playing one day with making different colored layers and noticed a complete lack of air pockets. Pouring in layers is a pita but it works.

I get that when the mold has some cold spots. Did you warm the mold first? ( hitting it lightly with the heat gun would work ) Also I pour at 200.

Steve, just curious whether or not you let the candle completely cool before removing from the mold? I use the Palm 2 and Palm 3 from Candlewic and I don't have a problem with getting them to release ( I don't use stearic either ) but I do take them out while they are still pretty hot. I don't know if that makes a difference or not but I have read here about others having the same release problem. Mine fly out of the molds. Try removing one before it cools and see if that helps. Just make sure you have a good solid shell formed first. Also, you don't want the palm pillars to burn to the edge or you'll have wax everywhere. Typically you will have a shell but it will melt as the candle burns down.

The 30 ply flat should work fine if you twist it. Here's the link explaining http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26017&highlight=twisted+wick After you twist the wick it is probably comparable to a 32-33 ( this is strictly a guess on my part ) This works for me for most fo's.

When I switched from paraffin to soy for container candles I also switched to a frosted jar and no color. No one has minded.

It looks like you may get a blow out where the shell is getting thin. How long has it been burning? By the way, very pretty candle.

Absolutely beautiful!!

Those are some really pretty soaps.

I like all of them. Hope you sell out of everything:)

I use lanolin in a foot balm I make. I melt it with soy wax and then add the shea, emu etc. I whip it up with the mixer and I haven't had a problem with it not incorporating.

I always carry a small bottle of soap in my purse ( a good lid is a must:wink2: ) It has come in handy on many occasions.

Welcome to the forum Soapmaker Man. I live close to the mouse also:grin2:

I get all my palm from Candlewic. Sign up for the newsletter because they have it on sale pretty often and it's already the cheapest I have found. Candleman, I love this wax.

I have never needed to add stearic to the palm 2 or 3 that I get from Candlewic. It releases great without it but I have heard that other suppliers palm does require it.

If you mix paraffin or soy with palm then it will eliminate the crystal/feather pattern of the palm.

Also Camden Grey which is in Miami. I've ordered a lot of stuff from them for soap and a few Eo's ( haven't tried their fo's yet ) http://www.camdengrey.com

I have a recipe that I got from the dish for a very thick mousse that is: 74% water ( 1/2 of this use liquid aloe if desired ) 18% oils 5% ewax 3% stearic The fo and preservative weren't factored in to the % ( add at recommended rates ) and instead of playing with the lotion you have I would make a thick batch and then blend them together for the consistency you want. That way you don't have to worry about degrading the preservative in the thin lotion.

Same here, unless of course it's winter and the molds are REALLY cold.