SheilaW

Tart, I had the same problem with the 8 oz sq. tins. No matter how I wicked them they just got too hot for me to feel comfortable giving them out. The best burn and melt pool I got was using 2 smaller wicks vs.1 large one. I think the tin absorbs heat faster than glass and will feel hotter at the same temp.

Well I sure wish I knew what the secret ingredient was that prevents the air pockets in the palm you have that doesn't require hole poking and repours. Figures that I just got a case from Candlewic a couple of weeks before Candle Science came out with theirs. Without a doubt it is my biggest pet peeve with this wax.

I agree on Peaks. Very strong ( although I havn't tried it in soy yet )

I use the same warning labels for palm as I do for soy. ( none mention anything about clean up of wax )

Nope, I haven't ever had a wet spot with container palm.

Excellent job on the layering and the burn looks like it's going to work.

Very nice colors!

I haven't used the Glass Glow yet ( nor the CSN wicks ) but I find that the container palm from Candlewic has been easier to figure out which wicks than soy has been ( that's a whole nother thread:undecided ) I would imagine that all palms are similar enough that the wicking should be close. Carol K, for some reason zinc wicks do not work well at all in palm. LX or RRD's are your best bet ( in my experience. ) I prefer the LX because RRD's seem to flicker a LOT and usually have a big honking flame. HTP's will work but I don't like the bend and uneven melt pool. Isbennis, I never heat the jars. I heat to 210 add fo and color ( which usually brings the temp down without too much waiting and I pour at 190-200. Since I pour in my hot garage I just let them cool at room temp. without doing anything special. If it's cool in your house then you could turn the oven on until it's warm, turn it off and let the candles slow cool that way ( what I do in the winter. ) It is a hard wax. Once it's cool I clean up any spills with a paint scraper and I use a heat gun to clean the pour pots. Jakalex, for the 9 oz hex jar either an LX-16 or LX-18 should work. I use the 18 for heavier fo's. I get a full melt pool, even flame and no soot. Palm is a bit like soy in that it tends to burn down before melting out to the sides. To wick the larger jars I would suggest double wicking. I know it's a major PITA but 2 smaller wicks work better than 1 large one. One thing that no one seems to have a problem with ( I haven't read it here anyway ) is the air pockets or caverns as I call them. That in itself is enough to make me want to get a sample and try the Glass Glow.

Yes, in my experience ( one large batch that went in the trash ) and every thing I have read, the Dead Sea salt does not play nice in soap.

I found that the 30 ply works for most fo's ( twisted of course:wink2: ) Does not blow out and as the pillar burns down it will consume most of the wax so there isn't a huge shell left behind.

I agree with Top. I think that you'll find that when you test burn for a minimum of 3 hrs. that those larger wicks will give you a blow out. Also keep in mind when testing that some customers will light it and let it burn much longer than the recommended 3 hrs.

I use both blocks and liquid dye in palm and they work fine.

I gave up on finding them. ( they are called bulb or candlina ) I searched until my eyes were crossed. "The Jar Store" has been out of stock for a long time now.

First two times I ordered 1 mold and it only took around 2 weeks. LAST time I ordered 12 molds ( same ) and it took almost 3 months. I got the same e-mail that they were very sorry stock had been depleted blah blah blah. My opinion was that there should have been something on the site stating that they were out of stock. Yep, crossed them off my supplier list.

I use it in foot balm.

Looks great! I have to chuckle a bit though because when my teen son, grandson and all of their friends would come over to hang out they would eat every thing in sight ( much to my 14 yr old daughters dismay ) She made a big bowl of chocolate pudding and put it in the fridge with this note taped to the top. " DO NOT EAT THIS IT IS FACE MASK !!!!!" 2 yrs later this is still kind of a family joke.

I usually add .5 oz eo per lb of oils for a fresh batch.

An advantage for me is I know that the fo is fully incorporated into the oils because I have time to stick blend the heck out of.

Very eye catching and appealing, looks like something I would want to pick up for a birthday bag or Christmas stocking.

Love that soap!! I don't know what it smells like but those colors are awesome.

Love those!!

I am so with you on the tongue to the soap. It just freaks me out and since I don't have the slightest idea of what putting a battery to your tongue feels like then I'm never quite sure if it's a zap or not:o and yes you can pour it into wooden molds.

I use it in all of my palm and have for a long time. The biggest advantage for me is that I can add extra fo if I need to. ( As you know some fo's are light and don't throw as well as you want ) As far as increasing hot throw I think the extra fo does that. Kinda like in soy how 8% usually is better than 6% ( again it depends on the fo )

Candles look great! The zinc wicks probably won't work for you in the palm wax though.

I have remelted many times without any problems. Make sure you bring it up to at least 200 and pour in warm molds.