CaptnKush

What I found through experimenting with different waxes is I added 20-30% of 2281 which is still a low melt point container wax but its harder and has no additives. Makes 4627 very easy to dbl wick and you still get the same scent throw. It also makes the wax look so much better than just plain 4627 by itself. You could also try 4786 instead of 2281. I wouldn't add a hard pillar wax because of the shrinkage.

https://www.candlewic.com has them.

If you hover your mouse over supplies then you will see a bunch of options, and 1 of them is Fragrances. https://woodenwick.com/product-category/exclusive-fragrances/

I don't use clear glass so I am not as worried about adhesion and wet spots, so what I do is heat wax to around 190-200 let it cool to 185 and add scent. After I add scent I cool the pot of wax with either a fan or water bath down to 140-150 and pour. I use the .03 booster. I also don't get a super HT when using their scents. To me they are a mild perfume scent which I like. It fills the room but it isn't overpowering like Macy's perfume section :D

Well since no one has replied Ill throw in my 2 cents. I have messed with 6046 a little, still have a whole box of it actually, but anyways, the wicks that I have tried are CD, LX, HTP. So far HTP seems to be the best wick for that wax. For a 3" container I was back and forth between HTP 83 and 105. Both worked, but I hate having a self trimming wick because it always creates a melt pool that is off centered until its gets down midway in container then its good. LX 20 is a good one for that container, but it too will mushroom. Pretty much every wick I have tried in that wax gets mushroom, just like all the rest of the Coconut waxes. The one thing about the 6046 is you don't need to wick down in that wax. You will read about members telling you that you need smaller wick maybe 2 sizes smaller when using Coconut wax which is true for most brands except the 6046 because it has a good amount of Paraffin in it. I honestly use only wood wicks in Coconut waxes, it seems to solve all the wicking problems. Try adding some soy to that wax. I messed around adding 444 soy anywhere from 25% to 50% and it made it a nicer wax almost similar to Lab & Co Coconut cream wax. Also give ECO wicks a try. If you haven't tried Lab & Co Coconut Cream wax, give it a try. Its more expensive than most waxes, but if you spend over $99 you get free shipping which brings the price down pretty close to other brands that you would pay shipping on. Its probably the best Coconut wax I have used and the best looking.

No expert here by any means but I think that might be scale wax/spa wax . I had the same thing happen to me while messing with 2281. I don't remember what caused it because it only happened once and I failed to take notes because I disliked it so much. Maybe too much FO in a wax that holds 3% or additives you may have used. Did you use any additives, Vybar, mineral oil, Crisco? I wanna say it might have been the temperature it was poured, because I did a lot a different temps trying to achieve a mottling effect with that wax.

Wow what a deal you found there. Can't wait to hear how good it is.

An Update on Shipping With the recent changes from UPS we have had to make some updates to the way we ship. Without notice, they added a large handling fee (our rep says approx $27) to packages weighing over 50 pounds. That would be any case of wax we shipped - and that's a lot. We have been working hard to find a solution including negotiating better rates and meeting with our shipping companies. All of this takes time. For now, we are going to be re-packaging products into smaller boxes. Our soy container wax and soy pillar/tart wax will ship at 40 pounds instead of 50. Our coconut wax will ship with 4 slabs instead of 5. Beeswax has stayed the same with 25 or 50 pound options. We will probably need to make a few changes in the coming weeks and will do everything we can to get the best pricing while still being able to offer free shipping. With general rate increases on all shipping, we have had to change the free shipping threshold from $50 to $79. We are happy to still be able to offer this and don't know of a company that offers free shipping at a lower price, without a handling/processing fee. We will keep you updated on any other changes in about a week with our January newsletter. There have already been over 10 new spring fragrances added with another 20 or more to come before summer. We also have new wick lines, soap and bath bomb molds, containers, colorants, and a new website design! Feel free to reach out at any time with questions or concerns. This link is my direct email. Thank you so much for choosing us as a supplier! Brian Bahr owner Got this message from CS too.

I know Yankee and other companies sell these things to improve on candle burn, but I don't want to purchase theirs, I would like to have my own custom made. Does anyone know at all how to go about having these made or if there is a company that makes these? Never realized how great these things work for Apothecary jars.

Oh, you just have the melting pot unit that you empty into a pouring pitcher. I thought you had the automated one that dispenses the fragrance oil into the pouring wand as you are filling jars.

Ok finally someone who has one. Can you please elaborate on how the scent is mixed with this unit and any other things on how it all works.

Maybe your wax or wick is the problem. I bought a bunch of that scent from CS and every candle I made has great scent throw. I used it in Coco83, 6046, and 4627 with no issues at all. Of all those waxes probably the 83 had the strongest scent, but I was also using a wood wick because that wax is a pain in the arse to wick.

Ahaha I have been knocking my head about this same thing. There is a solution, but it involves using the Yankee candle toppers. From what I have seen these metal toppers they sell for around $11 will fix the problem so that a single wick works. Only downside is that they have Yankee name on the side. Would be nice to find a place that makes them so you could put your own name on it. I found some other brands but they look cheap, almost like someone had access to a metal shop and just had some circles cut out with designs on them.

Perfect. Thanks so much

I already have the tongue depressors but I don't like them. Yankee shows they exist in their youtube video, I just can't find them unless they are made special for them.

Well you can buy the liquid black dye from CS and also the solid dye blocks from them as well. I have the liquid from CS but have not used it yet, and I also use the Reddi glo dye chips that also have black, but I still I have not tried that color yet. Dye is real easy, every one I have ever bought has instructions on approximately how many drops or chips for light or dark colors. I love the Reddi glo chips because they are so easy, and they have a much larger selection of colors so you don't have to try and blend to get the color you want as much. CS dye blocks also work very good, they are just a lot bigger than the dye chips so if you only need a little color they are easier to shave flakes off.

For 8oz straight jars I use the wick centering device that Aztec sells, the plastic round ones. Does anyone know where to get the ones that fit an Apothecary jar? I know someone must have them because Yankee uses them, but I can't seem to find them anywhere.

I grew up with candles, Mom always had them in the house as far back as I can remember. I gave her some of the candles we made and thought nothing of it. Was over visiting and she lit one up. Flame was about 3" tall because she had never trimmed the wick. It was an Htp wick and it was so long it was curling back down inside the wax. I guess a lot of the old timers don't know to trim their wicks which just scared the hell out of me. Merry Christmas everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The seeping FO is crazy. I even used Vybar 343 and still looks like this.

Ok after trying even more waxes I think I finally got a yankee replica. Even the tops are just as ugly and seeping fo 😀

Ya I know about the store, there is also the other in North Hollywood, I just haven't been motivated enough to drive through LA

Was pouring candles the other night and every time I finished a batch I would pour the little I had left into an empty candle jar. Maybe an inch or less of wax. I did this several times till I had a full candle to use for myself later. Our house gets to about 68-70 degrees at night, and it usually causes all our container candles to get wet spots to some degree. The only candle that didn't get wet spots is the one poured in multiple layers. This has been over a week of low temps at night and still no shrinkage on the layered candle. Does anyone pour their candles like this just to avoid wet spots, is this a known thing?

Just noticed something on Calcandlesupply that I am not understanding on the tins. 1 Each - $1.20 24 pc Case - $27.60 48 pc Case - $51.84 12 pcs - 8 oz Tins - Free Shipping - $23.49 24 pcs - 8 oz Tins - Free Shipping - $43.99 Why is the 24 pc free shipping not free? Is there a difference between a 24 pc case and 24 8oz tins?

Ok I will check them out. Probably the only place I forgot to look Thanks

CSN 7 for the straight side jar. First burn you are gonna get this funky shelf of wax at the top as it tunnels. Second burn will usually take that away then the sides will follow as the wick burns down. Its not real thick on the sides but still enough to give you a really cool glow effect. You will know after 3rd burn if you got it right. Its been a while since I messed with these. There is a member on this forum that does nothing but these, Im sure she will chime in and help.