CaptnKush

I have tried all of those waxes, and without adding anything such as whitener, the 4786 is the best wax for color. If you want to see how orange looks in 4786 log onto the facebook group for craftserver. I just posted 2 videos showing how high flames get in 4786. The color is incredible. I think I only used 3 drops of liquid orange per lb that I purchased from Candle Science.

With all your experience with candles on top of being a rocket scientist I am surprised you hadn't made a youtube group a long time ago. I think you can actually make money off of it. I think you would put ole Standley to shame.

Ok its up on your FB group

Yes only on the first light. What I did to fix this is cut the wick shorter than 1/4" otherwise on your first lighting, the flame burns away a small portion of wax leaving a longer than normal length of wick sticking up with a high flickering flame. After that its all fixed. I have a video but your server won't accept the format and the free video converters aren't free if you convert. Lame. If you have a converter I can send you the video from my phone. I have 1 showing a 1/4 tall wick and the other with it trimmed after first lighting it.

You can use a single lx 26 or dbl 44 zinc. I use dbl on the 8oz jars only. I know lots use dbl wicks on the big ones but I found that the jar got real hot. The 60 zinc tunneled on me, but if you use candle toppers with that candle then the zinc will work good.

Ok Im stupid I got it figured out. I like this one better than the one I have been using. Thanks.

That is a great template. Is it possible to make this on 1 page instead of 2 halves?

The best way I have found on first lighting is to light it up, and wait till flame burns down all its going to burn, after that blow it out, cut off the burnt part of the wick and re light. Its always been a perfect burn for me.

Multi purpose marshmallow roaster/ candle?

My bad you're right it was Huntington Home. Thought I was on to something here

So TallTayl now after hearing that there arent many waxes or additives available in India, do you think maybe those Aldi candles are Paraffin and Soy with no additives? It did say soy blend on your candle label. Maybe those candles have been sitting in a warehouse curing for a year which accounts for the strong throw you had.

ahahaha how do you close the box for this gift? This was on Etsy.

Agreed

ahahaha I don't think anyone has actually read the article to see that it was a joke and the actual fragrance ingredients are pretty good.

https://luxurycandlesupplies.co.uk/documents/asw-candle-testing-sheet.pdf

We need a real review on this, or maybe not :D

Thought I would make a topic for posting funny things you shouldn't do. This is supposed to be how you make a Yankee candle. The wick setting is the best part. Enjoy

I don't use 6006 so I don't know the wicking, but when I watched this and saw the wicking he used I thought this can't be right. All mushrooms and oversized wicks for those small jelly jars. Does he only use HTP or what? Well here it is

I use both actually. I use the 4786 in Apothecary jars because that wax is so easy to wick and the colors you get in it are so nice along with a great CT and HT. It looks so perfect after every burn with that nice smooth creamy surface. I also use it for melts and brittle wax and never had to add a harder wax to it. I was using 4627 but switched to 4630 for ease of handling but so far I only use it for tins and painted jars because the wet spots it gets look so much worse than what 4786 gets, and from what I have dealt with while using the 4630 is that it isn't a 1 pour wax, maybe in tins but not glass jars, Its close but still sinks down enough to need a top off. Could be the lot # I got, I don't know, Im still on my first box of it. I wanted to try the 129 because of the reviews but the $114 shipping for 1 $75 box of wax aint cutting it for me.

Try this. Light the wood wick and blow it out when the flame burns the wick down and reaches the wax. Cut off the burnt parts of the wick and re light. It should be perfect after that. I don't know if there are instructions on this, its just what I discovered dealing with the same issue. Let us know if it works for you.

They do throw well, but after all my testing the only wax I will use them on is the Coconut. They are just too dirty for me. By the time you are halfway through the jar, the wax looks like crap. Good luck them, keep us posted.

We are going to need a little more information here so members here can better help you out. 1 What wax are you using 2 what fragrance oil and how much are you using 3 what kind of dyes if any 4 What container and are you cleaning and or heating them 5 What wick 6 temperature in the room you are making them 7 how long after making them before you are testing 8 what temperature are you adding fragrance oil

Thanks. I love that wax, its so easy to work with.

This is as close as you will get. Its IGI 1286 no additives. If you want to up the fo% then add vybar 343

Ya, don't add any to your 6006 because it already has additives. Here is some info for you. Candle Additives are additional ingredients that you can add to candle wax to improve the quality of the finished product. Candle wax can vary from batch to batch, so knowing how to adjust to these situations is key. There are a variety of candle additives at your disposal, spanning an array of possibilities for your candles. Some additives improve scent throw, some help with discoloration, there are even additives to help extend burn time. The key to providing the best candle you can to the market is knowing what candle additives are available and what they can do for your products. Stearic Acid What is Stearic Acid: The candle additive stearic acid helps the wax shrink as it cools. This is key to remember especially if you are making candles in molds. The addition of stearic acid will help release your candle smoothly. Stearic Acid also boosts the opacity of candle wax. If you are making candles and coloring them with powdered dye, the powdered dye can be melted in stearic acid before adding it to the melted wax to ensure an even dispersal of color throughout the candle. Stearic Acid can also be used to make gel wax embeds by adding it to pillar or votive wax. How Much To Use: Stearic Acid is added to paraffin wax. The correct percentage use for this additive is 10% of the total wax amount. Therefore, for every pound (16oz) of paraffin wax you use, you will add 1.5 oz of stearic acid. Stearic Acid can also be used at an additional 2% in your paraffin wax if you have selected to scent your candle with heavier fragrance oils like vanilla scents. The extra added stearic acid in this case will help the candle wax with fragrance seepage. A break down example for this is 2 tsp. for every 16oz of wax. Vybar What is Vybar: The candle additive vybar is a substitute for stearic acid. Vybar is also used to help extend the scent throw in your candles. The addition of vybar to your candle wax will make the wax more opaque. You will also notice a marbleized look to the top open portion in container candles. Vybar will also increase your candles melt point and also slightly harden your wax consistency. There are two different types of vybar depending of which type of candle you are making. Vybar 103 is used in votive or pillar candles. Vybar 260 is used in container candles. How Much To Use: If you are looking to get the best scent throw possible out of your candles, vybar can be added to your candle wax at ¼ to ½ tsp. for every 16oz. of wax. This proportion provides the very best results. There is a precaution when it comes to adding vybar to your wax. Adding to much of this additive will result in trapped fragrance oil, directly meaning decreased scent throw. If fragrance oil is trapped in wax, the scent will not evaporate correctly when the candle is lit. Therefore, it is best to stick with the recommended use mentioned above. Petrolatum What is Petrolatum: The candle additive Petrolatum is also known as petroleum jelly. This additive is used in container wax only and works by increasing the number of pores in your wax. Petrolatum will also increase the oil content in a wax therefore making it creamier and softer. The addition of Petrolatum to your wax will also help the wax to adhere to the sides of its container as well as help to reduce shrinkage of the wax. This candle additive will also aid in the reduction of the melting point resulting in an end product with a longer burn time. How Much To Use: With this candle additive, testing is key. A good starting point is up to 5% of your total wax amount. This percentage can range all the way up to 30%. Please Note: Using this candle additive may affect your clean burn resulting in some smoking from your candle. Crisco Shortening What is Crisco Shortening: Crisco Shortening is commonly used in food recipes, but can also be used as a candle additive. The addition of Crisco Shortening to a candle wax will help to extend the candles scent throw and decrease the chance of having wet spots. A good alternative to Petrolatum, this additive even works better with certain container candle waxes then Petrolatum does. How Much To Use: Through our testing, we have found that the addition of Crisco Shortening at 1-2 oz. per pound of container wax provides your finished candle with a better scent throw. Mineral Oil What is Mineral Oil– Mineral oil is also known as paraffin oil. Commonly used as an emollient agent for cosmetics, mineral oil can also be used as a candle additive. The addition of mineral oil to your candle wax will provide for a mottled look in your end product. How Much To Use: To achieve a mottled look in candles, add 3 Tbs. of mineral oil per every pound of wax you are melting. You will want to pour the candles at 160 degrees Fahrenheit. When using this candle additive in your wax, you do not want to rush the cooling process of the candles with a water bath. Beeswax What is Beeswax: The candle additive beeswax will improve a candles burn time and also provide your end product with a beautiful rich color if you choose to color the candles. Now, the addition of beeswax to your candle recipes can be expensive, but well worth it if you choose to go that route. How Much To Use: Beeswax can be used as the only wax in a candle, or it can also be added at 5-10% of the total amount of paraffin wax. Microcrystalline Wax What is Microcrystalline Wax: There are 2 different forms of Microcrystalline wax; hard and soft. The candle additive hard Microcrystalline wax is added to paraffin wax to harden wax therefore providing the candle with an extended burn time. The melt point for hard microcrystalline wax is over 200 degrees Fahrenheit. This candle additive can also be used as a dip wax to make mottled candles. The other type, Soft Microcrystalline wax has a lower melting wax point. This wax is used with paraffin wax to make modeled wax. The addition of this candle additive will also help the wax adhere to the containers as well. How Much To Use: For the Hard Microcrystalline wax, the usage suggestion is 1% of the total wax amount. For the Soft Microcrystalline wax, the usage suggestion is about 10% of the total wax amount, or about 1.5 oz. per pound of wax. UV Light Inhibitor What is UV Light Inhibitor: When coloring your candles, there are certain hues that have a tendency to discolor. These colors are Blue, Burgundy, and Violet. The same can be said about any variations of these colors as well. UV Light Inhibitor is a candle additive that helps to prevent the sun’s affect of fading or discoloration in your candles. However, it must be noted that if finished candles are set in direct sunlight, even with the addition of UV Light Inhibitor, fading will still occur. How Much To Use: The addition of this candle additive is added at a rate of 1/8 tsp per 16oz. of wax used.