crvella

Hi all! It's me again.... on the topic of 4627 8-) So I've done all the testing I can think of with 4627 and the only combination I can find that works for me is the HTP single wick with 4627. Anything else and it either mushrooms too much or the wick drowns out. Having said this, I don't find the throw is great with a single wick. I feel the larger the wick the less the scent throw; I guess because it burns the scent off maybe. Soooooo..... From everything I've read noone has successfully double wicked 4627 in a 3.5" jar. At least with no consistency (half burn all the way and half stop half way through). This brings me to my next quest. If it's 4627 that is hard to wick; and therefore the reason that it doesn't complete a burn; is there another wax that is consistent in it's burning when double wicked... like soy maybe? I say soy because I am spoilt with options in Australia for soy; where as paraffin is only 4627 and 4630.... So.... is it 4627 that is the problem and would it be worth moving to soy.... with the obvious point that soy arguably doesn't throw as well.?

Hi Becky I'm using a 3.5" straight edge jar. Think they are called status jars.

Hi beckemmons. I've been working with this wax for over 12 months, with very little luck on double wicking. I have recently given up trying to double wick this wax. The closest I've come is using 2 x CDN 3 or 2 x HTP41. Both typically drown out around the 3/4 to 1/2 way mark though - I've resorted to single wicking and using either a cdn or htp. others say you harden the wax, which should help with the double wicking. suggestions of 4786 or any pillar blend have been given. I don't have access to 4786 and have tried with an unknown pillar blend I have available to me but find the shrinkage with the pillar blend is too much. I have heard loads of people say that zinc are a great wick for this wax, but I too don't have access to zincs. If you find the zincs aren't giving great throw, maybe you are over wicking with the zincs. I find if you wick too high it can just burn the fragrance off rather than give a great HT.

This is a few years too late but wanted to add my findings on this, in case anyone else is having similar issues still. I had this issue (BADLY) and I blended some 4630 with it to stop it happening. It hardens it up just enough to prevent it

This is an old thread but I have just gotten back to the testing of late (been busy with wedding plans) so I wanted to come back and give feedback on this and say thanks for everyones input. We have not settled on CDN wicks for these jars / wick combos. We are finding CDN 6 - 12 depending on the fragrance loads etc. Though we use a 12 before moving to a 10; as the 10 actually performs closer to a 16. We are also looking to test the premier wicks also; and looks like a 745 might be the starting point; or a CDN6 equivalent. Next struggle is wicking a 3.5" tumbler with 4627 for the wedding. my oh my why did we add the pressure this close to the wedding 8-)

Hi Oceangazer1 How are you going with your 3" jars? I thought I'd mention that I dbl wicked a similar jar with 2 x ECO .75's They seem to work rather well in that test, though I didn't continue to use 6006 after that so I can't speak for the consistency in results; it may be a starting point for you? I also single wick a similar jar (but taller) using 4627; I wick between CDN 6 and 12 depending on the fragrance.

Hi candybee. Yes I've now tried test burning it over the half way mark and it doesn't seem to be the right size. I also seem to get way too much mushrooming from the half way mark. Its back to the drawing board 8-(

Hi all! Just wondering if anyone would know any tricks on widening the melt pool without going up a wick size? I'm wicking a 3.5 inch jar with a CDN 18. Its a smidge too small, but the CDN 20 is mushrooming and a touch too big. I'm using straight 4627, and was wondering if there is any additive I could use to lower the melt point a touch just to get the 18 to work?

Hi Candybee and Steve. I appreciate you getting back to me. Oddly we have been at this for a year and would've thought by now we would had this nailed, but it seems there is always something around the corner to challenge you! So what I'm hearing is a single wick system is a little easier to wick with, and a double wick is quite likely the cause of the dulled down or extinguished flame due to lack of oxygen? Curious, does anyone have a photo of what I should expect my flame to look like half way down? Also, can anyone recommend a size of the premier series for a 9cm wide jar? I can't find a good chart anywhere. Thanks again all!

Hi all! Happy new year. Hope everyone had a great break and new year. I've spent my holiday period fighting with 3 fragrances I received. Leather & Sandlewood, Vanilla and French Pear. All of these seem to struggle to burn all the way down. I've dosed them at as little as 5% and they still struggle. It looks like there is something clogging the wick at the base, and when I swirl the candle around it seems to clear the wick; then seconds later it's back to being clogged. I'm told by the supplier that these fragrances are all used elsewhere and have proven to work fine, so I'm not sure what else I can do. I am using a 11cm High x 9cm Wide jars; I'm using 4630/4627 blend and CDN wicks. I use 2 x CDN4. Does this sound like a reasonable wick suggestion for that size jar? I have tried going up in size to 2 x CDN 7's in some cases and it doesn't seem to make any difference with the exception of a quicker melt pool. It still stops burning around 3rd or 4th five hour burn. We have been single wicking these in a 3" jar, and whilst they are harder to burn than all our other fragrances, we still get them to burn all the way down (with a bit of soot).

I thought that to be the case but all others are running a 2 CDN 4's and this won't get to the bottom with 2 CDN 8's.

Hi all - I have a very stupid question. Stupid because I can just test to get my answer, but I'm curious as to peoples thoughts. I have a very difficult to burn fragrance. I have 10 litres of it because I love it and it works well in reed diffusers and in the smaller jars. As soon as I move to a deeper jar than 2", it tends to simply stop burning after 1hr. It gets a flame that is about 2mm high. It literally all but stops. Hats off though, not a sceric of a mushroom which I love! I am dosing at 6%, and have gone down to 5%. My questions is this; 1 - Does anyone have a leather and sandlewood fragrance that is harder to burn than a thick vanilla; 2 - if so what do you dose yours at 3 - Does anyone have a fragrance that they need to dose at less that 5% to have it burn? 4 - is it acceptable that after 1 to 1.5hrs a flame literally all but goes out, aslong as it leaves a little melt pool? This candle is fragrant when it burns; but I find there is not enough hot air to thrust it up into the air, so it's just fragrant in and around the candle.... if that makes sense! I'm determined to get this one right, because in the smaller candles and reed diffusers people literally can't get enough.

Hi all I'm doing some extensive testing with about 15 wick types. I am dosing the candles at %6 (or %5 for vanilla) and I am finding all wicks mushroom, with the exception of ECO, to some degree. Problem is they soot a lot! I'm wicking a 3" jar with an eco 1.5. If it's a harder to burn fragrance, we use an ECO 2 or ECO 4. I have tested with the LX wicks as everyone raves about these, but I am finding these mushroom at the top of the candle; but seem to stop mushrooming as much at the bottom of the candle. They soot a lot on the initial light too, before settling down. I find the same with the CDN wicks. My question is; How mush mushrooming is acceptable? and also, is it normal that a candle may mushroom on the first 3 or 4 lights, but then stop mushrooming as much toward the bottom? Just interested in everyone else opinion. I am a little bit of a perfectionist so I'm trying to get an understanding if the problem is me or the wick 8-)

To be completely honest I don't have waxes available to me that I would like in Australia. I want to use palm in place of a hard paraffin wax, due to the harder paraffin wax causing heavy mushrooming with wicks I have available. Some of the wicks that I have available to me and which work in my base paraffin wax are also compatible with palm. The reason I am blending the wax is for colour retention and glass adhesiveness. I'm hoping the palm adds a solid white and increases the adhesion by reducing shrinkage.

I've not used the 3022 but something I would say having used a blend before; soy will take at least a week IMHO to cure. One month of having let it sit will increase ht. Second point. If you'd poured the candle the day before then your not going to be smelling that candle like your customers will. Give it to an honest friend a week or more after pouring if you want an independant answer or burn it after a few days of not being around any scent at all. I've done the same and sent it to friends who have said its waaaaaay too strong when I couldn't smell a thing. Independent reviews are priceless

Just wondering if anyone has blended paraffin and palm before, to make a container blend. And if so are there any gotchas I should know about before I travel down that road 8-)

Thanks guys! I can't get my hands on the 4786 here in Australia unfortunately. Would 4630 suffice, and what were the improvements you noticed with the 60/40 mix as opposed to a straight 4627?

Hi All Im a big fan of 4627, but understand some people blend with other paraffin waxes. Just wondering why people blend, and what are the benefits. I've heard some people blend with 4630 or another similiar harder wax, for example. Does this do something for the burn characteristics; to reduce soot; mushrooming fragrance throw. Or is it simply for asthetics? I'm testing with htp, eco, cdn and permier; and have issues with all of them in one way or another, and wondering if I should, for example, start using 4627 with 4630 to reduce the oil content and therefore hopefully reduce mushrooming and sooting?

Have you thought of double wicking it?

OH and one more thing! This caught me out for months You work with the fragrance all day long; after pooring your candles; you can't smell the fragrance and the likelihood is that when you burn them you can't either Example I was hooked on trying to load 12% fragrance in a candle because I thought it wasn't throwing, and the 4627 claims to hold %12. One of my most critical friends kept telling me the one thing I need to do is make sure that the candles throw well or they wont sell. I finally loaded it up and got it to burn (only half way down) by adding 8% fragrance; so I shipped out these candles which were only burning half way down to get feedback. Within 24 hours my family and friends were all ringing me telling me they were too strong and they had to extinguish them within 30 minutes. ME: Couldn't smell a thing! Yet my brother claims his house still smells of vanilla 3 weeks on! I now dose them at 5% and they burn well and the hot throw is amazing. I use a vanilla; and it's a very thick vanilla.

Emily Anne - I want to share my experience so you know that your not alone and that you shouldn't feel ashamed. I too have buried a lot of cash. $20k+ (I stopped counting at $20k). I too have an entire living room of stock. I am an Analyst by trade, and I started this business with my Fiance. I thought 'How hard could it be making a candle'...... Well I think we will both vouch; it's not. The one thing, like any tradesmen, it's understanding your tools. Persist, persist persist, and in a few months you'll be the one on this message board giving help to those around you. May I suggest, if you are struggling, to take a methodical approach; Which I have started doing and made some good leg way with. 1 - Keep your method for making your candles the same EVERY time. I.e Make a wicking tool that wicks your double wicked candles the same width apart everytime. Ensure you heat the wax to the same temperature every time, add your fragrance at the same temperature everytime, and poor it at the same temperature; everytime 2 - Select a wick suited to your wax, and make 1 candle of each size wick WITHOUT FRAGRANCE. It's important you understand what your wax does without fragrance, so you can see the effect your fragrance has when you add fragrance to it. i.e 2 x HTP 62 may work for you and the candle burns beautifully. Add %5 and it may still burn well. Add %8 and it may stop burning. So you go down to 7%, then 6%. You must be methodical. 3 - Note down the beginning middle and end burn of your candle. Eliminate any wicks that do not burn for you in your wax without fragrance. If the wick does not burn without fragrance then the likelihood is it will not burn well with fragrance. 4 - Repeat steps 2 & 3 for another brand of wick you think will work in your wax. Repeat this over each wick you have in your living room, until you have a list of wicks that are working without fragrance. 5 - Once you've identified candles that burn nicely without fragrance, start adding at 5% and see how that effects the burn. It may burn great; so try 7%, and see how you go. You will likely have to wick up, but make sure when wicking up you are not using a wick that did not burn without fragrance. A few things I've learnt in my 8 months of testing (without a successful candle) 1 - The start can be slow in an initial burn; by the time it gets to the bottom of the container, the melt pool will be bigger and the jar will be hotter. 2 - Just because a wick size is higher in number does not mean it will perform the same, and just burn hotter. One example is this. I use HTP in 4627. The HTP 52, 62 and 93 are the only wicks that will burn successfully every time in my candles. - HTP 83 burns hotter than the 93 and has an out of control flame; and turns the wax black - HTP 72 and 73 drown out half way down the jar, and turns the wax brown - HTP 52 and 62 burn perfectly; They do not soot, they do not turn the wax a nasty colour and they burn a perfect melt pool by the 3rd burn - HTP 93 performs almost the same as the 52 and 62 with the exception of a hotter burn. and an ever so slightly deeper melt pool. - All of the above wicks performed the same with fragrance in them (8%); so now I know the fragrance is not my issue and I can focus on performing the same tests on other wick brands. 3 - When you read posts about 'drowning wicks' or something similar; do not assume what you read is whats happening. Only you can determine the issue through testing. Write some test cases down and just work through them until you've proven to yourself what caused that particular issue. Experience is the only way to learn. 4 - Not every fragrance will give a great throw. Pick something that you know has a strong throw and only test with that. Remember Vanilla's are hard to burn. 5 - Sometimes less is more, don't assume throwing more fragrance at the problem is going to help. and don't assume going up a wick size will either. That is just my 2c worth. I wanted to give you what I've learnt over the last 2 weeks since I've now been taking methodical steps to eliminate elements as the problems. In the last week I have determined that there are only 3 wicks in the HTP range that I can use and I now know that I can focus my efforts on finding other wicks that will fill the gap for when I may need to deviate from the HTP 52 62 or 93. Hope this helps. Keep at it; your not alone!

Hi guys. Does anyone know who the manufacturer of premier 700 series wicks are? I'd like to see if they supply anyone in Australia so I can get some without paying $110 on shipping.

Hi All I've seen a few posts around 4627 and how difficult it can be to wick that wax. It seems to be a far superior wax with scent throw, so I'm sticking with it. The problem I have, especially here in Australia, we only have access to limited wicks; so I spend a lot of time and money importing wicks from the US only to find they don't work. They either struggle half way down the jar and (I think) drown, or they are too big. They soot/mushroom and make the glass hit around 100 degrees Celsius. My question is this; Who has successfully double wicked 4627 and what wicks do you use? Other than HTP and ECO, as I find they are not working for us. Also, do you find in winter the wicks need to change?

for testing this should be fine. Use a paddlrpop stick to stir for 2 minutes once you've poured the wax and fragrance. Then set your wick.

Oh the 4630 in Australia is a whiter and a harder wax than the 4627. Our 4627 is like petroleum jelly. The 4630 is more like a hard play-do.