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Arch Rock

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Everything posted by Arch Rock

  1. Dear Lord, I don't need any more headaches Trapp but thanks for the idea. I think the only way to make money on jars would be to buy direct from a manufacturer AND buy a Sunshine load to boot. You've got the overhead of keeping them in a warehouse, etc. And yes, I have feeling the markup on wax is probably close to double.
  2. Trapp (and everyone), check out the Jar Store. They have those flat metal lids in a wide variety of colors. Trouble is, their website doesn't say wht jars they are compatible with. Still waiting on a reply to my email.
  3. I don't think you're going to get a whole lotta diff between 24 and 26.
  4. OMG I was JUST going to post this! I really hope this Loop idea takes off. I always encourage customers to bring their empty jars back for a discounted price refill. Our planet is drowning in plastic! I really want to find a creative solution to plastic clam shells for wax melts. Also replaced my glass lids with the Olde Tyme metal lids from Fillmore and added a sticker on the inside of the lid encouraging customers to reuse/recycle. I'll scoot this convo over to packaging.
  5. Well, Gary, the most successful business ideas begin by "solving a problem". I think it's why most of started pouring our own candles - the big company brands sucked. Maybe see what it would take to start importing and re-selling some glass. Lots of wholesalers in New York. Just sayin'.
  6. Coachtom, Candybee and Jcandle are encouraging you to dial in the right wick to prevent side blow-outs because once you starting adding stearic acid or vybar, you run the risk of "locking" the fragrance in. This is why we (generally speaking) get better scent throws use softer waxes that need "supported" by jars. Jar waxes are softer and have less stearic and/or vybar compared to pillar blends.
  7. HA! You just dated yourself talking about those old J waxes. Wait a minute . . . I just dated myself too! What a sticky mess they were to work with but I often think that I recognize that wax in a lot of Yankee candles.
  8. We paraffin-based users are not immune to the curing phenomenon either. I think you're onto something, Forrest.
  9. OMG you're a GENIUS!! Thanks so much for saving me tons of time and money.
  10. What are some of your favorites? Thanks
  11. For those interested: Lonestar has HTP 52, 62, 73, 83, 104, 105, and 126 at 6" pre-tabbed Fillmore has HTP 73, 83, 93, 104, 105, 126, and 1212 at 6" pre-tabbed Candle Science has the same as Fillmore plus an HTP 41 at 3" pre-tabbed Candlewic does not have the lower 52 and 62.
  12. Considering that CD wicks start as small as 5 and come in 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, and 26 . . . I can only assume that the 26 could double as a flame-thrower. The highest CD I've ever used in my wax with 6% FO load is the 14 and even then, it was a hot burn with a longer stalk and more mushrooming than any other CD wick or any other wick series. Do you mind if I ask why you feel like you need a 26?
  13. Great article. It also proves that everyone here has been leaning in the right direction - specifically, new and unusual containers/vessels and in becoming more ecologically sound in our packaging decisions.
  14. Yeah, I tried it before Christmas and it was ghastly in my wax. Almost had a cat pee smell to it. This top note was not mentioned in all the rave reviews!
  15. Who carries the best selection of HTPs? I can only find one or two at one or two places. Interested in testing the full range. Thanks.
  16. Top off hotter than the original pour and use a steady hand. I remember crimping the spout on one of my pouring pitchers into a tight "beak" and used this only for topping off pillars. Definitely not for amateurs.
  17. I agree with the above. I can be super lazy in the winter and not unload candles from my car but the summer is a different story.
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