Kerven

I wish I could give an answer but I'm stumped as well. Incidentally, I saw something very similar in an experimental non-soy wax blend that used CS Black Sea. The curdled appearance didn't correct after melting and repouring. Might be the FO?

Hey, Soapers! Quick question - two, actually - about hydrogenated palm oil. Not homogenized palm oil. Does anyone still use it? If so, would anyone mind pointing me towards a source? I've found only one supplier - Cibaria Soap Supply. Looking for something that might be a little closer or at least more reasonable shipping.

Just wondering who might have problematic batches of C3 so that I know where not to order from. I've been working with it in blends and was hoping to continue testing, but if C3 is now having issues... back to testing non-soy blends.

Is it a recent batch? If so, do you mind sharing the supplier?

A light spritzing of diluted non-chlorine bleach? Not certain if that would ruin the paper, if patterned, or the adhesive. Cat litter or other zeolite product. A week to a month should do. Baking soda might work but it would take too long, I'd think. Could try putting cedar chips in it for a few weeks to cover up the smell. Crumpled newspaper and baking soda in the hot sun. Febreze?

I'm hoping those FO's are made in the USA. I love their tobacco noir and haven't been able to find a dupe or anything close enough. I wonder which FO manufacturer they use...

IDK. If it was covered with wax paper, I suppose moisture could have been introduced while uncovered. I'd suggest melting down those candles and repouring just to rule moisture out, although some of the moisture, if present, may be "cooked off" during the remelt. After reading that the wax wasn't brought to maximum melting temp, I'm inclined to think that may have been the culprit. Bringing it to 180-190F allows all the components, such as the naturally occurring stearic and palmitic acids, to fully melt and redistribute. The unmelted components may have encourage rapid crystal growth, resulting in the frosted surface. That's not to say the humidity had no part in it.

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Hole around the wick is probably from pouring too hot. I poured 464 on the hot side because I couldn't be bothered to wait for it to cool down and I almost always had that happen, especially in the batches right before soy hit the fan. Then again, I also allowed them to cool down a bit quicker than desired after pouring, so that may have shocked them some. Pouring cooler allows the wax to begin setting up prior to pouring (some call it the "slushy" stage) which helps to lessen some of the shrinkage and pulling away. Everyone has a method that works for them, I guess. I've only seen frosted tops similar to those when reheating the surface with a blow dryer (in a futile effort to remove the holes). My guess would be a temperature fluctuation, pouring too cool (it's a thing), moisture in the wax, or the surface partially melting after setting. By chance was the humidity higher the second night? Had it rained? Maybe the cool down was too slow and crystals grew... It almost looks like what happened to me once when I poured far too cool, a little beyond the slushy stage. You got me with that one.

There are numerous plant oils for the industry to choose from. Apricot, coconut, canola/rapeseed, sweet almond, rice bran, sunflower, peanut, corn, hazelnut, linseed, olive, cottonseed... The problem is in their fatty acid profiles, since they're all different, and the particular process required by each to turn them into something useable. Availability and cost are also issues, and the soy lobbying arena can be brutal. I think it's worth the effort for the candle industry to look into them, but with so many people making candles, so many tons of wax needed, and the need for low prices... Well, soy is plentiful, it's cheap, and the process of hydrogenating it has been around for a while. It's the more economical choice for manufacturers. That is, until every candlemaker stops buying it. In the meantime, a lot of us are either falling back on old reliable (for the most part) waxes such as paraffin and palm, testing new non-soy waxes, or taking any wax we can get our hands on and blending until something works (it has to eventually, right?).

I'm still convinced the explosion of particular GMO soybeans over the past few years had a part in it. The timing matched and, although the most obvious, AAK/GB wasn't the only soy wax having issues. The GMO beans have had the fatty acid profile of their oil altered, which would undoubtedly have an impact on the final hydrogenated product.

Oooh, I hadn't thought to use a beer cozy to insulate them. It's worth a try!

It's a heat thing, I believe. The cooling rates of palm candles are often slowed to encourage the development of larger crystalline formations. This can be as simple as wrapping the container in paper towels or other insulating material or as complex as manipulating environmental conditions. I see it all the time with palm wax and wax blends, especially when I slow the cool down; I don't flip them. What causes it... I have a few ideas but my educated guess is that the surface is cooling quicker than the rest of the candle (the surface isn't covered, allowing heat to escape). Incidentally, the only palm candes I've made, that did not show the nearly crystal-less ring, were wider than they were tall (the shorter apothecary jars). They were insulated and made from Peak's old sparkle light palm.

Polyboost's numbers indicate its melt point, I think. So, Polyboost 130 melts at 130F and Polyboost 165 has a melt point of 165F. Both are polymers as well. I did see a note that Polyboost helps to disperse colorant, which I didn't see with the other additives. A good rule of thumb is that polymer additives for use in softer waxes (container waxes) have lower "model" numbers than their counterparts.

A thin jute twine, maybe?

Vybar 103 (pillars/tarts) and Vybar 260 (containers): .5-2%. I think the most common recommendation is 1/2 teaspoon per lb. Amount can vary depending on how much FO is used. Vybar 343 is used in mottled waxes and pillars at 1% (as suggested by Candlewic). It helps preserve and enhance mottling while preventing sweating caused by the FO. Vybar, polybar, and bipol-x are similar if not the same. They're polymers. Vybar is an opacifier, hardener, and oil binder. Polybar is similar and used mostly in paraffin as a hardener, I think. Bipol-x has similar properties as well but is most often used in the UK as an FO binder. UV absorbers/stabilizers depend on the supplier. There are some very powerful UV additives that can treat 10-100lbs with just a tiny bit. Candlemaking Supplies has one - UVasorb 3c - with a suggested usage of 0.1%, 1/10 teaspoon, per lb. That's not easy to measure. The two over at Candlewic are used in a two-part system at 0.001% (I know, I had to do a double take as well), so about 1/2 teaspoon per 10lbs. Ugh. Break out the lab scale. Candlescience's is a bit easier to use at 0.25-0.5% or 1/2 to 1 teaspoon per lb. Since suppliers don't bother to include what their UV stabilizers are made of, it really depends on where you got it and what their suggested usage rate is.

Now that you mention it, the wavy, swirled tops on soaps do look awfully similar to fudge. Like slices from The Fudgery. Great, now I want a bar of handmade fudge-scented soap. Not to taste... of course...

No way! It's soap... I could understand shoving a bar into a kid's mouth if they used foul language, if people still do it. But really, trying to eat bath and body products? Now, I'm wondering how many people have tried to eat sugar scrubs or used bath salts for flavoring. 😖

Liquid dyes. CS liquid dyes work well for me, despite the awful odor. Will require more than the suggested number of drops when used in soy. Don't expect a perfect black or other dark color (that's just the nature of soy wax).

No one, really, but I just want to play it safe. I wouldn't put it pass some of our nosey neighbors to saying something. Somehow, city officials always catch word of whatever it is you'd rather them not know about. For example, someone I know received a letter from the commissioner of revenue's office about the potential operation of an unlicensed business out of their home... all because of a tax filing error. Years ago, a friend received a notice about signage because a personal vehicle with a business logo (the business was registered to that home address) was parked on the property. A disgruntled neighbor reported it.

I've been putting this off for a while in hopes that a solution would eventually dawn on me, but it seems the need to address it may be sooner than expected. It seems I have an odd situation here. I know about the types of business licenses, structures, taxes, etc. Fortunately, my city allows home based businesses to be run out of the home, however: No clients are permitted to visit the home. - That's ok, there would be no need for clients to visit. There will be no storage of any merchandise or equipment at the home. - This is the tricky part.* Less than 15% of the home will be utilized for business. - Not a problem. Only those individuals residing at the home may be utilized in the business. - Again, not a problem. No detached structures/signs may be utilized for the business. - Not really a problem, although, I wanted to eventually build a small shed-like structure as a workshop (I'm not crazy about FO fumes flooding the house) but I can make do without. There shall be no sale of merchandise from the home. - Uh-oh?** There shall be no food processing. - I'll make sure the warning labels include "not for consumption". JK * Ok, so about the merchandise and equipment. I think I have a workaround for that. Merchandise is things to be sold, right? So, if I make them, let them set a day or two, then transport them off-site before listing them for sale, that's not merchandise... right? I mean, they're not for sale until I put them up for sale, I guess. As for the equipment... that's going to be a problem, I think. However, I think there's unwritten fine print with that one since a phone, computer, hair dryer, lawnmower, etc. could technically be considered equipment utilized by the business, which would make just about any business in fault with that rule. ** If I store "merchandise" off-site and do my processing and packaging there, all the while my sales are being processed online on an out-of-state server... would that potentially conflict with this rule? I guess I could contact the commissioner of revenue about all of this, but city officials around here tend to be sticklers about these sorts of things, and the ordinances and guidelines within the city are terribly, terribly vague at times. I really don't want to have to make an appearance at a city meeting to seek clarification, although, a good argument can be made about the city alienating and repelling small businesses, which the surrounding cities embrace... and a city this small needs all the tax revenue it can get (highest real estate taxes in the area doesn't seem to be cutting it). Nor do I want to appear in court to fight it. What to do, what to do... Should I consult with a business attorney? Should I just go ahead with it and deal with it if something comes up? What is your advice?

When in the store with someone, while browsing the candles and making comments in low tones about "wet spots", which are overheard by another shopper, who makes an odd face before moving along.

Some of the reviews are interesting to watch. The only reviewers that come to mind are the lady in Wisconsin who reviews B&BW + YC, the guy who seems to have all the insider info about YC releases, and the other guy who goes crazy and excessive at the YC end of season/clearance sales (who needs that many decorations... of the same thing). Haven't watched any in a long time. Nooo, not ASMR. My skin is crawling at the thought. I don't understand mukbangs. Don't understand them at all. Is that the modern term for binge eating?

Not to highjack the thread, but something just occurred to me. When I switch away from soy wax, how am I going to flush all the soy from the pot? Huh... I haven't given that much thought. It still has a decent amount of wax in it.

I put the lid on because of the smell. Incidentally, there's almost always a residue on the lid after doing so. Makes me wonder what's getting into the air without the lid. Nevertheless, I haven't had any issues except small temperature changes (read: more stirring needed) with or without the lid. Best to err on the side of caution, I suppose.