Lori

I had some issues with my last few batches of candles. Cavity/air pockets around the wicks... but not visible from the surface. Say you pour 40 candles, how many should you test burn to know the batch is good?

So you can poke holes in a candle that's been cured for over a month? The only thing that's happening with the couple I've tested are that they put themselves out within 15 minutes of the first burn.

What do you do when you have tons of candles and can't tell the difference between the ones are fine, and a few duds? The tops all look beautiful, such a drag!

I've tried just about every wick and find that HTP works best for me in C3.

I have a really strange thing that's just started to happen with my 7oz candles. They look beautiful, but seem to have a developed gap inside (near the wick) that's causing them to self extinguish. I've been making candles for a couple of years and thought that I had everything down... Now I have all of these candles and have no idea which ones are fine and which ones might have a cavity... HELP!

Over the weekend, our office lost its air conditioning in our section of the building. I have tons of finished candles and wonder how hot is too hot for them to sit before the heat becomes an issue. Of course we're having a heatwave this week! Right now, the thermometer is reading 86 degrees.

@TrappeurYou're the perfect person to respond. I use C3 with HTP wicks in a 7oz straight sided glass jar. I kept the area free of drafts. I'm thinking I might need to wick down one on the Vanillin fragrances, or just live with it. It just looks so dirty!

Hello, has anyone ever seen this happen with certain fragrance oils. Both candles have the same wax and wick, just different FO. It seems to happen with the FO's that have Vanillin. I'd say they burn similar, maybe the candle with the soot pool burns slightly hotter.

I am amazed at how many people tell me they didn't know they needed to trim the wick, or that they shouldn't burn for an entire day!

What is the best way to get a reading on a container? When my candle gets very low, within the 1/2 inch of the bottom of the jar, I can touch the jar towards the bottom, but it gets hotter up towards the top, a little too hot to hold.

@bfroberts quick question. I am considering switching to permatex. Right now I'm using a glue gun and warm the jars before adding the glue/wick for better glass adhesion. I assume I will have to skip this step?

@birdcharm I just had an idea. Instead of getting all new wicks, I can just buy the 6mm or 9mm sustainer base and just cut off the 3mm. I guess that's a start!

@birdcharm I couldn't agree more, and couldn't believe what I was seeing! I guess there are people out there that just have no clue. Freaked me out a bit! The last thing we ever want to do it create something extra hazardous! As far as the base, it's definitely a 3mm. It figures I just ordered a bag of 500. I guess I'll have to upgrade. Do you ever make your own? @TallTayl do you mean the bottom of the tab not being glued down enough, or the crimp in the neck? I usually buy my wicks from Candlewic, I just examined the neck and it doesn't seem super crimped.

Thanks kandlecrazy. I see mixed reviews on so many different brands. Can you recommend the best you've come across?

Hello, I received a call yesterday from a local customer that the jar cracked on one of the candles they were using as a tester in their store. Since they were local, I was able to run over to see for myself what the problem was. It appeared that the wick moved and was up against the glass. It made the label singe a bit and also shattered the glass. One thing I noticed was that there were about 5 matches in the jar! It looks like the store owner actually has been lighting the candles, then throwing the match right in with the wax. ???!!! I use a high temp glue gun, and haven't noticed this happening with any of my testers, and haven't received this feedback from anyone else. Now I am mildly freaking that I have candles out there that might be prone to having the wick move. I read one thread stating that the wick should extinguish itself when it gets to a certain point, but I've tested candles and see that they can burn to the point of most wax being gone. So, I guess that's one issue, and the other is the moving wick. I see that people use silicone, but up until yesterday, thought the glue gun was doing its job. I imagine glue dots would behave the same as the glue gun...