Karen B

I have 2 copies of my pictures. I resize it myself to a thumbnail, it comes out cleaner looking and I have the thumbnail picture be the link to the bigger picture. I hope this makes sense I haven't had my coffee yet, Karen B

Why can't you add scent to it? Have you actually tried it? Oh while we're at it lets not leave out good old Palm Wax, that can take homes away from the orangutans. You could try making your own bayberry wax. artcwolf, I think I dated him in high school. (My kids might say that is a pic of me before coffee) Karen B

some of the weird things I've found when figuring this out. A mottling wax works better than a preblended wax. (even with additives, 4625 didn't crackle as well as 1343 with UA or vybar and steric didn't matter) Maybe it the cut of the wax who knows I'm not a wax expert I just know what I saw. Play with the temp of the hot water, with my wax I want it between 175 and 180, no higher than 180 or it wrecks the look of the candle. Cold, cold, water with lots of ice and yes let it sit for 5 minutes. Play around using the votives 1st and find what works best for you before moving on to the pillars. Karen B

Actually I think they took 7% of wax + stearic. (16 oz) 7% of 16 = 1.12 oz But yes I believe everything but the % of FO they had been talking oz and not %. It doesn't sound to bad to me, but I can't think in metric to save my life. Karen B

I've never had a problem with smoking and a little translucent crystals. (maybe it's the artful way I hang my tongue out) I use superior wicks anywhere from 635-645 depending on what I'm making and the positions of mars, venus and the moon that day. Superior wicks self consume in a funny way, blossom, mushroom and those fall off, different from other wicks that fall over and self consume. The key is to hang your tongue just the right way and do the candle mantra while the wax is melting. Karen B

You might get lucky and it could come out of the tart mold. I've poured extra in muffin tins they they slid out. (shape small and wider on top than on the bottom) Pillars this stuff will not work in, it will not come out. I have a theory that it expands a little as it crystalizes. I say this because I tried making a few tea lights and the cups cracked, I couldn't figure out what I was doing but now I think it's just the way it crystalizes. Karen B

Just wondering if you've tried adding translucent crystals or something like that. I know it's a PITA additive (I melt it in the presto then once melted add the wax) but maybe just a little bit (1/4-1/2 tsp) will harden the wax enough to give you the burn you want. It doesn't inhibit mottling, but does help a little in the weeping department. (from my experiments, but sometimes I think I live in another dimension) Yes, I've found vybar can harden wax a little, not as much as some other additives but it does harden the wax. Karen B

I have a little form for wholesale inquires that I ask people to sign before I give them my price list. I have one wholesale account that likes to push my buttons, wanting a votive sample of every scent I make, asking if she picked up the order could she only order a few items....(you get the idea) On my price sheet I have my terms and conditions but because of her I also have all inquiries sign this paper before they get my price list. I state on the very top that this is NOT a contract, just that they understand my conditions and agree to them. I state they are responsible for collecting sales taxes, my private label options, minimum orders, shiping and pick-up options, payment terms, lead times, and since I do like to give out samples but will not make up one sample of every scent I make I state how many free samples they can get per order, and I also offer a sample pack they can buy if they want more. hth, Karen B

I've seen the left over wax be all white powdery is that what you are talking about? One time when pouring a palm tester the glass wasn't preheated so I took my trusty heat gun to the glass real quick. (after the wax was poured) I wasn't paying to much attention to my heat gun and it ended up it was on high and I had left it in one spot too long. The one spot ended up white powdery looking instead of nicely crystalized. So my theory in why you see that is the hot wicks. I only see it at the very, very end of the container when the glass is really starting to get hot. Usually it's only when the candle is finished, and not half way threw the burn at all even when they sit. I use GG with CSN 11 or 12 in 8 oz metro's. (if that helps at all) Karen B

What temp did you pour the purple one at? make sure it's a preheated jar. Looks to "my unprofessional" glass glow opinion that the pour temp wasn't hight enough. hth, Karen B

1st start with a FO that isn't going to turn the wax colors. I found stearic acid turned my candles kind of yellowish'y. (OK I know it's not a word but that's what happened) If you want a nice white,white/opaque candle use vybar and luster crystals. Luster crystals are a PITA to work with but they will give you the most opaque/white candle you can get. I also use 1343 and this is what worked best. I have the shrine of candles made with different additives to prove it. :smiley2: hth, Karen B

Someone here has posted another color chart. (I don't have the link right now) I remember it said 4 parts red to 1 part green. I guess my green isn't as blue,or dark as it should be for the color chart. I played with it and with my colors and I found this worked for me, 8 parts red, 1 part green, 2 parts blue and it is the perfect burgundy color. Try starting with the 1st one 4 parts red to 1 part green and see what maybe missing, I found it was almost burgundy but missed a little of the "blue" tint in the color, but maybe with your green it will work. Once you have the color you want you can keep a little mixed up and marked with your burgundy recipe so you can recreate it. (don't forget to write everything down, not that **I** have ever made that mistake but I do know someone that was very pissed when they found the perfect color and forgot to write down how they did it) hth, Karen B

I'm confussed, (nothing new I know) I thought wicknclip gave out free sample packs? Is your supplier charging you for sample packs? If they are then just call wick N clip yourself and get them for free. Then when you have a better idea you can order from your supplier instead of directly from them. Karen B

A wholesale account of mine is doing matchbooks. She found hers from a printing company that just wanted to get rid of them. They are from Atlantic Match Co, Frankfort IL. (if you want to try the matchbook place) You could also call a few printing companies in your area and see if they have any leads. She is printing out cute little things off her computer with what looks like clear gloss sticker/label paper. (the really clear stuff I think) I know she sprays the top with something, I'm guessing the same stuff B&B people use to make the labels more water proof. Her place usually has that strong smell to it. hth, Karen B

I doubt that would really work, plus anyone can sue anyone for any reason. I could claim I bought one of your candles and burned my house down. Now all of a sudden you have to get a lawyer just to show the courts I didn't really even buy a candle from you. KWIM Insurance will give you a lawyer, and you don't want to show up in court without one. Soapers Guild and according to soapers guild Indie beauty network does too. (don't need to make soap to get the insurance from indie) hth, Karen B

they did have a great plain spearmint, it's not listed on the website. I don't know if they're just out or if it was actually discontinued. Karen B

I think it's all in the chant, and I must not be doing it right because I can't find that higher candle mottle power/God that i should feel when doing the candle mottle chant. Of course there are other factors like the direction and speed at which the wind is blowing. (wet finger and wave in the air to check conditions) BTW yes I meant tongue as in mouth, not tong what ever that is. (Can't spell check just read minds,especially before my 1st cup of coffee) Karen B

You need some kind of oil to get it to mottle. If you want them unscented try using mineral oil at the same rate. (.50 oz per lb) otherwise you will need to use FO. Start at .50 oz per lb and go up from there. With mottling you do not want to use more than 1 oz per lb, and even then without certain additives you'll get bleeding. Some FO's mottle better than others, and I swear sometimes if I didn't hang my tung just the right way while doing the mottle chant it will mottle different. hth, Karen B

If Vicky's tea light tents won't work they also sell this one. http://www.wickcenteringtool.com/default.asp?S=503&A=E&PKV=WCT-9ozHex|0 is that about the right size for you? (I have no idea what the opening on a 9 oz hex is) If you can't find anything have to tried pouring the palm in a small cooler then just close the lid. As long as you have a good amount of jars in there, the jars will generate enough heat for the palm to crystallize properly. hth, Karen B

Craft stores like Michaels and Hobby Lobby in the paint aisle has empty bottles in different sizes, you could try there too. Karen B

Yes, I think to big of a wick will eventually kill the scent throw. In those size jars I use CSN 11's and 12's.(8 oz metro's) Let it sit a few days and don't judge by the 1st burn, give it 3 or 4 burns. With palm you will not get a full melt pool on the 1st burn but as the jar burns it will clean up the glass. For scent throw put them in another room with the door closed, let it get going then walk in the room and see. You could be getting a bad case of candle nose. I also noticed with these wicks they bend a little and one side of the jar would clean up and the other would have a little hang up on the glass. I remembered that eugenia (I think I have the right person) twists her wicks on pillars a few times to give it an even melt pool. I tried this with the palm wicks and it works wonderfully. One other thing do not try going over the recommended amount of FO. I use Glass Glow and more than 1 oz per lb only gives me a headache, I actually get a better scent throw keeping it at 1 oz per lb than by going more. hth I haven't dared to try bigger jars yet, I found the smaller ones less trying. (go figure) Karen B

I hope I can explain this right, here goes. You need to start with a clearer FO not too dark, nothing will "clean up" a FO that is turning a wax darker. There are additives that will make a transparent wax more opaque, this can give you a nice white looking wax. I found out of all the additives vybar and luster crystals give you the best "white look". vybar and stearic is 2nd, it's probably just me (I walk that fine line to totally insane) but I think stearic yellows the wax a tiny bit. Of course it's just dawning on me your making pine cones so it you're going to order additives and it's not going to get burned you could go with white pigment or TD. (but only if it's not going to be burned that stuff clogs wicks) Karen B

grama, This summer my not even 3 friggin' yr old fridge died on me. My wonderful big brother came by with his 20 yr old fridge and told me to keep it in the garage "just in case". (then I could just roll it down the driveway for the garbage) (lol) That thing is UGLY but it's more reliable than my two brand new appliances with all those computer parts in them. (I still wonder why everyone puts computer boards right by water, cold or in this case hot ovens and think it's safe) Trust me grama keep your old reliable, because it really sucks to try and figure out how to feed a family with just a cooler. Karen B

personally I leave the wick pins in. When the candle is ready it slides right out. When I clean them I heat them up a little and wrap a paper towel around a long thin spoon and just wipe it that way. Then your mold is always ready with sealer for the next candle. Karen B

Not e but if you're going for the "cold pour" rustic look yes pouring hotter will ruin the rustic cold pour look, you'll get a mottled look. Try pouring your second layer sooner and not waiting so long. I can't give you a time frame because I go by look. wait until you have a skin, on cold pours it is very quick. You just want a skin of wax not completely cool. Call me a freak, but if you watch wax as it hardens (it's worse than watching water boil ) as the skin forms it is very light in color and then you'll see a dark ring start around the outside of the mold and work it's way in. wait until it's about in the middle. Or if you want an easier way just wait for e to give you a time frame she uses. Waiting a certain amount of time never worked for me, the temperature in my room can change and then the layers don't don't work as well. hth, Karen B