Karen B

Are you thinking of Candles and Supplies. They have some poly rounds but the largest is 4 x 13. Molds are getting harder and harder to find. Especially anything that isn't the regular 3x6. Karen B

I was stupid enough to fall for that trap. I would try vaseline before buying that stuff. It is just a really sticky gooey micro wax. Just makes wicking a PINA, and in straight paraffin didn't make a difference. Maybe in a one pour wax it will, but I was very disappointed. Sorry if I had some soy wax I'd try it for you since I still have the stuff. Karen B

I was talking to a lady today who was looking for a candle that is usually used in Greece orthodox weddings in Greece. I don't feel comfortable at all making this candle, but I do feel sorry for this person and thought I'd try to help her out. There are 2 candles, both between 7 & 8 inches in diameter and stand at 4 ft tall. (they stand by the holy table so no people walk by them) They are expensive and it sounds like she would order them from Greece but the shipping would probably break the candles. I have ideas on how this could be done, but the time and expense in this would be too much for me. (for just one customer) Plus I still worry about how safe they would be standing on there own. Anyway she sounds like she has her heart set on these candles for a wedding, it does sound pretty, so I thought I would ask. Maybe someone hear has seen them and has experience making them. BTW she is in IL. Karen B

Has anyone played with micro wax to help stick it to the sides. I know micro is really white but I wonder if it was melted and then painted onto the side of the heart if that would help it stick to the glass and not show up all white on the glass. The right Micro can be very sticky stuff and is used to stick wax art to the sides of pillars/hurricanes. I already have some heart cut outs I used for other things, and micro wax. If my kids will give me a few moments to myself maybe I can play with that idea. (don't hold you breath that my kids will give me a break though) Karen B

You can do it how you like. I just scent the over pour because then I can have different colored chunks around and not worry about what scent they are. (KWIM) I scent the over pour a little more instead of 1 oz per lb I go up to l.5 oz per lb. I also use UA instead of vybar, maybe that is why you are getting mottling. Not all UA is the same, I use what ever UA The Candlemakers Store supplies. IMHO you still need something in that over pour wax or the oil will do what it wants to do and find a way out. What is your pour temp on the over pour? I pour hotter when making chunks. Then I wait a few seconds and go over the mold with a heat gun until the bubble stop coming up to the top. It's a weird kind of system of taking the heat gun from bottom to top (tap, tap, tap) on one part and move on to the next part of the mold. I do this around the whole mold until the bubble stop coming to the top. This gives me a more clear and smooth over pour. HTH, Karen B

I have been using this wax for years now, and I like it. Did you want a straight paraffin or did you want a straight paraffin for pillars? From the way you stated what you wanted I would have given you a straight paraffin like 2281 also. It does make nice mottled containers, and with the right additives makes nice regular container candles. You can try to make votives with it also, I mix it with my pillar wax for my votives. You do need to do repours but I wouldn't use anything else for my containers. Karen B

Let it shine has the Reddig-Glo dye chips if that is what you are looking for. http://www.letitshineusa.com/categories.asp?cat=41 I love powdered dye but never used pourettes so I'm not of much help. I do wish they would have tried to sell the company instead of just closing the doors like they did. Karen B

Ah see the eternal optimist. Karen B

I remember America something being the highest company they have, so America First( or was it First American???) must be it. R.S. it must be some kind of rule that came into effect before the renewal of your policy. They have to follow very strict rules and when I worked for Ohio at the time they would never think of messing around. When rules go into effect has to do with your policy renewal date, if your renewal date is 12/3 and I love candles was 12/1, and the effective date for the higher premium is 12/2, I love candles gets the luck of the draw this time. That is as long as I love candles is in the same state, different states can have different rules. Sorry this happened to you, I hope you can find something out there that isn't insanely priced. Karen B

Many, many moons ago in a land far far away, I worked for that company. (In IL. though) Try contacting your insurance agent and see if you qualify for one of the other companies under Ohio Casualty. I worked in person insurance, not commercial, but I still think the commercial side had 3 companies under it's names. Each company higher up had better premiums, but it was harder to qualify to get in that rate. Also have you checked places like the soapers guild (do I have the name right) even $500.00 seems like a ton of money to me. hth, Karen B

I like using powdered dye but I don't quite use it in the quantity that you use it in. I thought Candlewic sold it in larger amounts, have you checked them out. I thought in my old bookmarks I had another place, but now I don't know if that was Pylam that you use or someone else. If I find that bookmark I'll post it. I like certain colors form certain suppliers, like xyz's red & yellow, and abc's brown, & black. (KWIM) but I have no idea who the manufacturer is. Karen B

Are you securing your wicks to the bottom of the jar? I know my brain is past it's peek but I'm not getting it. It seems to me if the wick is glued to the glass then the wax wouldn't slip out. But, I've been know to be wrong once or twice. Karen B

I get this problem specifically with tortoise shell. I'm guessing the temp on my presto isn't right. For now what seems to work for me is melting the wax in a double boiler. As soon as it reaches the right temp I add the FO & color and pour. I don't let it sit very long at all at the 200 degree temp. (pour into heated molds) Then do everything else as normal. I don't get this with Glass Glow, but I do with the tortoise shell. Maybe it doesn't like to sit at that high heat for long. (maybe it's this batch of wax) I have always thought the temp on my presto was fine, since the wax doesn't get over 200-maybe 205 degrees. But, I'm thinking of playing around a little with the temp. For now what seems to work is the stove top with a double boiler, PITA but it works. Karen B

I don't know "what" fingernailing is, but here is a link to an old post. This is probably the worst case of fingernailing I've ever seen. In the 1st post he has a great pic of it. http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4295&highlight=fingernailing It can look like mottling but it isn't. I hate it because I don't even understand the cause. BTW, on one of my batches, I "cooked" the wax at 220 for 30 minutes added more vybar then used a water bath. (I haven't done a water bath in at least 5 yrs but I was desperate) It produced the strangest candle of all. Small cracks vertical cracks through out the entire outside of the candle. Actually kind of cool, but what caused it I don't know. Karen B

Hey, I don't chat much here anymore but I'm kind of glad to see someone else having issues with 1343, I thought I was crazy. (OK don't answer that) I've been over here searching because I'm having the same issues, plus fingernailing horribly. (the worst I've ever seen in this wax) I don't know what to do, they raise the price of this wax and then it seems like the quality has gone down hill. That is what I think upsets me the most. I'd love to boycott IGI at this point but who do I turn to? With Candlewic I'd have to pay shipping, and right now with IGI I don't. Sorry, no answers for you but misery loves company, right. Karen B

I looked at the link and notice all the complaints have ordered from Vista, some of the people in this thread have never even been on the website let alone ordered from them, and they say they are having problems. Something else seems to be going on here nothing is adding up right. I guess now I better change all my passwords again, and keep a close eye on everything until someone figures out what is going on. Karen B

Just to clarify I "set it and forget it". I use the water "just incase" that 1st time the wax might get too hot. (I'm weird like that) Once I find the right spot on the presto I never move it, I just unplug the thing. I hope that makes scense. Karen B

I'm a little anal but this is what I did with my presto's. Fill it half way with water, and start with the temp at around 200-225 deg. I put a separate thermometer in the water and keep track of it. I want the water temp to stay at around 210-215 degrees, once I find that sweet spot I don't mess with the temp on the presto anymore. When I turn the presto "off" I just unplug it from the wall. Each presto can be off by a couple of degrees I know it's a little anal but this way I know for sure I can do things while the wax is melting and not worry. hth, Karen B

I would not recommend putting that stuff in candles. 1st make sure you are using UV inhibitor, if you are and you still get the discoloring. (some FO are just dark in nature and will turn the wax a very ugly color) You can try luster crystals, it's not an easy additive to work with but it does a better job than stearic (IMHO) at getting a nice white, white candle. Karen B

I'm a bit of a smart a$$ so I would probably look her in the eye's and tell her I haven't found a reliable source for bayberry wax that is organic. Unless bee keepers can kind of control the places their bee's pollinate I don't know if bee's wax could be certified organic. (I don't know crap about bee keeping so maybe they can) I would leave her with a very puzzled WTF is she talking about look on her face, but that is just me. If you want to be nice you could ask her exactly what is she talking about by "organic wax" because there really is no such thing. If she does start talking about soy or palm wax you could tell her to research the process that makes these waxes, but even that would be too much for my time and energy. No offense to the soy chandlers out there, but saying soy wax is organic is like saying the Glade pumpkin pie scented candle is made with EO. Kind of stretching the truth a little to far for my comfort level. Karen B

A few months ago when all this just started to come to light I did a google search with Tony's full name. It looks to me like he sued the new owners for "breech of contract". I have a feeling he was let go after he sold the company, and didn't really go anywhere. (this is just my speculation, based on what I could see) Phil, who quit quite a few years ago is working for another manufacturer, I don't have the name off hand but if you'd like I can look for it and give that to you. The company he works for also requires 5 lb min. Karen B

I don't sell B&B either but I do use this mold for my soaps. e is right the dividers need to be "seasoned". I would give the dividers and sides a coat of mineral oil to help get them to slide out. As you use it just rinse all the divider parts don't actually "wash" them. You want that "soap scum" to coat the parts, that will help. Take care when you put it away that the dividers aren't bent at all. If they do bend a little it's so easy, just put them in a little hot water, and straighten them out. My DH has a hard time grabbing the big bars of soap, but loves the small chunkiness of these bars. They make it so much easier for him to hold in his hands. If you do want bigger bars you can leave out some of the dividers, you'll see what I mean when you get it in. You can make really big chunky bars, but DH can't stand those. He drops those kinds of bars, and if it's a salt bar you better cover you ears. Karen B

calculators worked for me. http://www.candletech.com/calculator/round.php?fst_num=3&snd_num=3.5&ans_num=0.35&ans_num=6 2x3.5= 6 oz 3x3.5=12 oz I usually find out the fluid oz and subtract 20% for a rough 1st time guess, then weight out the final product for future reference. Karen B

Candle Science used to carry 2 kinds of container waxes that wasn't a "preblend". IGI-1288b was the guaranteed to mottle straight paraffin wax. IGI-2281 was another wax that was a straight paraffin but not guaranteed to mottle like the 1288b. Side by side I thought the 1288b had a nicer mottle appearance to it. When it came to wicking I didn't notice a huge difference between the two. But they are both straight paraffins so it depends on what you add to the table. They are both very hard and by appearance could be mistaken for a pillar wax. I could break either one with a hammer no problem. It seems both of these waxes are no longer available from Candle Science but I do have a receipt as proof they had them at one time. (2006) I love using superior wicks, so I'm really kind of useless. Of your choices I'd probably start with the lx and check the CD's too. hth, Karen B

Hard to tell without some kind of label but, could it be the 4630 which is comfort blend in slab form. Candle Science used to carry 1288b which was a straight paraffin that mottled. It has a low melt point, but I can break it with a hammer it isn't all that soft. HTH, Karen B