Karen B

I'm not 100% sure but I thought it was something like 1-2% of diluted soap. I've only made 1 batch so take that with a grain of salt. Karen B

Another person from IL. here. Kangaroo Blue has great CS and a wonderful place to order from. I also get my wax from DPS, took advantage of the sale since wax will be going up. One place that hasn't been mentioned is Oak Court Creations. Is it Minooka that they are in? (I don't remember) You can't pick up your order but to make up for it she will come out and deliver. Last time I checked it was free over a certain amount like $25.00. Karen B

I've seen something like that in my soap too, I thought either I didn't desolve my EDTA or it was my Palm. You didn't use palm though, but I wonder if someone knows if shea can do that. You know how in other products it can get grainy. I've also used the soap for myself and didn't find anything wrong with it expect the fact that I knew I did something wrong and didn't know exactly what. (not lye in my case also) Karen B

I've seen this too, I'm not sure exactly what it is, I sometimes wonder if my EDTA didn't dissolve in the water enough? I only use .01% of oils so it's not too much. I'm sorry but my poor eyes didn't read this quit right, and I thought gee someone didn't take there happy pill. I really don't know how I read what I read, I guess my coffee hasn't kick in yet. On that note though, wouldn't it be too soon for ash to start showing? I usually get a few weeks before my ash starts showing. Karen B

Yes I poke holes, you need to get those air pockets out. When I do the repour I kind of do it like the bottom of a pillar. I get the melt pool as close to the glass edge as possible without creating a repour line that is visible from the outside of the jar. (make sense?) Karen B

I have to agree with ana. It doesn't get "sink holes" but every single GG jar I have ever poured when I check it an hour later I find air trapped right under the surface. It's really not that big of a deal, really. Karen B

So you mean I'm not going crazy Scented? (OK what I mean is when it comes to this wax) <lol> Nothing else is different with the burn quality right? (I'll check this new batch) I just thought it looked different, and my colors aren't what I'm used to. Probably the refining process and nothing I can do but I'm really weird about my wax and I know what I'm used to. Thanks, Top I just saw your response too. That is what i was thinking, I'm just not used to it being this bad. But, the 1st slab in the box looked the worst. Also yes you're right, different lots of 1343 can be different. I don't know if they put an "N" on the ones that don't mottle or if it has other meanings, I just know I kind of like to look for the "A". But, I don't like the pellet form which is a whole different can of worms. I agree there are probably many different grades of the wax that fall under the acceptable parameters for 1343. Karen B

thanks Vicky but that was the 1st thing I check, the box does say 1343A which is right kind. 1343 N is the kind that doesn't mottle, but it still has a "transparent" appearance. Thanks, Karen B

I hate to cause a panic but I swear my 1343A looks different. I just opened up a brand new box and the 1st slab looked different to me right from the start. I've been using this wax for years and yesterday as I was making my candles I noticed the way it was setting up was different. I unmolded my candles and they are much more creamy looking than I'm used to. I'm going to make more pillars today, maybe it's me. Maybe I used vybar instead of my UA? I swear I didn't but I thought I'd ask if anyone else noticed that the 1343A looks different to them. I know I am probably being a little on the anal side but a big part of the reason I deal with 1343A is because of the look. These new ones don't look like "my candles". Karen B

If it makes you feel any better I had this bright idea that someone could do a liquid soap tutorial. (I scare myself sometimes) Maybe a certain soaper would like to do a tutorial on how they do those lovely creative tops to the CP soap they do. That is if they would like to share. One other suggestion, handmade clear soap. I've done the turn your scrap CP into translucent soap but not totally from scratch. Karen B

add a vote for cream soap. edited because...well, I'm an idiot OK. (lol) Karen B

I have to agree with CareBear here don't get too caught up in the soap cal #'s. Sometimes other fats can balance things out. That being said, I noticed my DH likes bars with Palmitic around 15-16%, I tend to like bars around 10%. But, DH's favorite bar of soap is the 100% coconut oil 20% SF. Soap cal shows Palmitic at 9% on that one. (I guess he's like the simple beer man, just a simple soap for him, no fancy oils just get him clean.) Hth a little, Karen B

I'm looking at the poll and notice we have a comedian in the group. Karen B

If you want to try additives I find the UA that the candlemaker store sells to help leave the wax more translucent then vybar will. http://www.thecandlemakersstore.com/category/additives.universal_additive/ Anytime you add any additive to wax it will make the wax more opaque but this UA does a better job. I have also found there is a difference in UA's from different suppliers. Not that many suppliers sell this UA, and the other UA most suppliers sell just didn't work for me in my wax. IGI-1343 is a nice translucent wax, I have found others. But, then the wicking would get to me. hth, Karen B

When comparing the color are they the same scent? Maybe it is the scent causing the really dark color? Karen B

Diane at Candle Science is wonderful. If any one company can get to the bottom of this they can. I've been brainstorming, you guys say in the same box of wax some pillars will turn out full mottle while others only have just a couple of white spots. I have no idea how they manufacture preblended waxes but from your experience could it be something like the additives are not fully incorporated in the whole wax evenly? I when I use things like vybar and stearic I don't worry too much about mixing it up. But, when I use harder additives like clear crystals and luster crystals they are harder to get mixed in after I melt them. Those I have my own little method so I know they get mixed into the wax right. Either way grama I'm glad you found a solution, hopefully 4625 will turn back to it's usual real preblended self very soon. Karen B

Did you happen to get you wax from Candle Science, the reason I ask is because they are wonderful at getting to the bottom of problems like this. It seems like they are better at getting a real answer from IGI than any of us candle makers are. If 1/2 tsp vybar was to much try just using 1/8 tsp or even just a couple of beads and see what happens. I could give you other additive I have found help to inhibit mottling. In your case since 4625 might already have some vybar in it one of my other ideas may do a better job. That is *if* you want to go through that kind of trouble. JMHO but if you are going to start playing with additives you might want to think about going to a straight paraffin wax then. I'm starting to wonder if that A might mean something. Just like we all found out the A in 1343 made a difference in our candles too. Anyone not getting the mottling in their 4625 and do they have a letter after the 4625 on the box? Karen B

That is interesting, I had always assumed "preblended waxes" had vybar in it already. So adding more would just lock up the scent. Top is more knowledgable in additives, but now I'm wondering if some preblended waxes are have microwax in it instead. Not that we could ever find out what is really in preblended waxes but that is interesting. thanks, Karen B

hey grama could you let me know how those turn out with the vybar and stearic. Maybe Cierra did add that on purpose because they saw the same thing? Karen B

OK ignore the above post but you can save it if you ever want to try 1343. Cierra is the only supplier that says anything about additives. I'm going to say that is a typo because they are a reputable supplier. In the past when I used 4625 I found it picky on the pour temp so try playing with something between 165-170. I pour in my basement which is a little cooler, so I do preheat my molds a little but not too much. When I used that wax I found I needed it need to be poured under 170 in a warmer mold. (not too hot either) My only other suggestion is to try the candle dance before you start making candles. j/k some days are just like that though. maybe someone will have more advice. Karen B

Those pics are 1343 right? I never had very good luck with BCN's UA, that is the IGI stuff I don't like, so try starting with 1/2 tsp vybar 103 and then if you want add stearic for hardness. (I think 1 Tbs) I have a bunch of candles that I put away, they are my experiments with different additives to see how they would burn and what they look like.(I'm weird like that) I found the candles but can't find the notes on the amount of each additive. (agh!!) The vybar/stearic candle has a nice creamy color. With my wicks it needed the stearic for hardness. I preheat my molds just a little so they are warm to the touch and pour at 170. Make sure you pour slowly and see if lowering the pour temp didn't solve your problem. hth, Karen B Edited to add that is 4625? and they recommend adding vybar and stearic. I've lost my mind, I swear 4625 was a preblended wax with everything in it. Maybe I'm getting my waxes confused let me find out what wax I was thinking of.

With the 4625 what temp are you pouring at. That wax the only additive you should need other than FO is UV, try lowering your pour temp. If you're pouring into preheated molds bring it down to 165-170 degrees. I use 1343A and not all UA are a like. Most of the suppliers carry a UA from IGI, and I don't like it. It does not prevent mottling as well and gives me thumbnailing. The UA that RE/AH, and The Candlemakers Store has does a better job, as long as I don't use to much FO and I'm careful with my pour temp.(I just wish I knew what that stuff really was) hth, Karen B

He started by melting crayons, was the "quality" ever really there in the 1st place? Karen B

As you can tell fitting a square pillar into a round mp isn't easy. In this case you just have to go with the lesser of the 2 evils. It looks good, but watch as it burns down that the sides don't blow out. (it might be a little to close to the sides) Ideally the sides will be good and as you burn the corners will hug in. (OK let me say that is what *I*do. Someone may have a better idea) The sides and the corners won't be as even, but they should eventually hug in as it burns down. I hope that made sense. Karen B