Jump to content

Wicking Dollar Tree Square jars


Recommended Posts

I thought of continuing with this question on my previous post of double wicking but I figured I add it as a separate post.   So far wicking status jars, mason jars, jelly jars, etc have been going well.  My problem child continues to be my Dollar Tree square jars.  They measure 3 1/2".  Picture below.   I have attempted to wick with:  1 LX 20, 2 LX 14, (both under wicked), 1 60-44-18 zinc (under wicked), 2 60-44-18 (over wicked), 1 62-44-18 zinc (with this one is either over wicked or under wicked depending on FO and color).  I only use Comfort Blend 4627.  I may consider not using it anymore but I really like it plus it is very inexpensive, good quality and readily available to me.  Do any of you work with this container?  What works for you?    

DT jar.jpg

Edited by YAMS
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I plan to pick up some of these on my next trip for supplies.  I've been hoping to pour GW444 and thought that I would use a #3 square braid cotton to see how that goes.  If it can't melt out to the edges, I may try two 2/0 square braid cotton wicks about an inch apart, although those might be too large.  That's my guess for my wax anyway!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is kind of off topic, but I am so afraid to use a glass container for selling candles that is not from a container company advertised as a candle container or as a container made for canning which to me means it is tempered for heat.  Do these containers have a label indicating they are for candles?  Please do not think I am criticizing your choice.  I would love to use different containers.  I found a source for the hobnail pint jars but such a chicken about using them for candles since they don't fit the above criteria.

Goldie

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, GoldieMN said:

This is kind of off topic, but I am so afraid to use a glass container for selling candles that is not from a container company advertised as a candle container or as a container made for canning which to me means it is tempered for heat.  Do these containers have a label indicating they are for candles?  Please do not think I am criticizing your choice.  I would love to use different containers.  I found a source for the hobnail pint jars but such a chicken about using them for candles since they don't fit the above criteria.

Goldie

I have always used them and they perform great.  Never get hot, it is a thick glass.  I know that many people here use it.   The ones I get from DT have a Libby sticker but other times I have found them without the sticker and they look and work the same.  I am very comfortable using them but I understand you.  I have found some really nice containers and I haven't bought them because of the reason.  

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Moonstar said:

CSN OR CDN ? Never heard of CSN . Is adding CBA for HT ? 

Interesting ?

 

CSN from Candlescience. CBA helps control the frosting for me in 464. I also heat my jars in the oven before I pour and let them cool in the oven also. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think if you measure that jar on the diagonal you will find in reality it is closer to 4" from corner to corner. In IGI 4627 I have always found that zinc core wicks do well. If I were using that jar, I would space two 44-24-18 so that the wick tabs are almost touching in the bottom of the container and spaced so they are going corner to corner versus side to side. Anything that wide really will either need to be burned a very long time (not realistic) or use two wicks to properly burn for most folks. This method has been one I have found to work well really in all the single pour waxes over the past 20 years.

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Flicker said:

I think if you measure that jar on the diagonal you will find in reality it is closer to 4" from corner to corner. In IGI 4627 I have always found that zinc core wicks do well. If I were using that jar, I would space two 44-24-18 so that the wick tabs are almost touching in the bottom of the container and spaced so they are going corner to corner versus side to side. Anything that wide really will either need to be burned a very long time (not realistic) or use two wicks to properly burn for most folks. This method has been one I have found to work well really in all the single pour waxes over the past 20 years.

Thank you for sharing. I found both your answer + explanation very helpful. I never would of thought measuring on the diagonal. If I may ask a question, is the proper

way to measure the diameter of a container from the outside rim or the actual inside opening - does that make sense ??? lol ! TYIA :) 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, KrazeKelly said:

 

CSN from Candlescience. CBA helps control the frosting for me in 464. I also heat my jars in the oven before I pour and let them cool in the oven also. 

Interesting about the frosting . May I ask what is the ratio that is added to the 464 . 

 

1 minute ago, Trappeur said:

 Makes perfect sense Moonstar.  You measure the actual inside opening as that is the actual area of wax you will be melting.....

 

Trappeur;)

Thanks - thats what i do for the vintage containers because like you said, thats the actual area the wax is melting. Yay  me lol ! 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Moonstar said:

Interesting about the frosting . May I ask what is the ratio that is added to the 464 . 

 

Thanks - thats what i do for the vintage containers because like you said, thats the actual area the wax is melting. Yay  me lol ! 

 

I do 60% 464 and 40% CBA. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, birdcharm said:

I plan to pick up some of these on my next trip for supplies.  I've been hoping to pour GW444 and thought that I would use a #3 square braid cotton to see how that goes.  If it can't melt out to the edges, I may try two 2/0 square braid cotton wicks about an inch apart, although those might be too large.  That's my guess for my wax anyway!

 only problem with square braids in soy is they tend to slump. They're not rigid enough to stand in the soy wax  the whole life  the candle. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, TallTayl said:

 only problem with square braids in soy is they tend to slump. They're not rigid enough to stand in the soy wax  the whole life  the candle. 

 

Thanks for the tip ... perhaps that occurs in some soy waxes and not others ...?  I haven't had any issues with them doing that with the wax I've been using.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, birdcharm said:

 

Thanks for the tip ... perhaps that occurs in some soy waxes and not others ...?  I haven't had any issues with them doing that with the wax I've been using.

Happens when the MP gets about 1/4-1/2 inch deep. The square braid just collapses onto itself. You won't see unless you are looking for it. It starts to be noticeable when the wicks look kind of short after the candle cools. When you pull on them you'll find the extra length. Eventually they get hard to light ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/10/2016 at 2:32 PM, Flicker said:

I think if you measure that jar on the diagonal you will find in reality it is closer to 4" from corner to corner. In IGI 4627 I have always found that zinc core wicks do well. If I were using that jar, I would space two 44-24-18 so that the wick tabs are almost touching in the bottom of the container and spaced so they are going corner to corner versus side to side. Anything that wide really will either need to be burned a very long time (not realistic) or use two wicks to properly burn for most folks. This method has been one I have found to work well really in all the single pour waxes over the past 20 years.

Thanks Flicker.  I will put that to the test he next time for sure.  Thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/10/2016 at 2:55 PM, Moonstar said:

Thank you for sharing. I found both your answer + explanation very helpful. I never would of thought measuring on the diagonal. If I may ask a question, is the proper

way to measure the diameter of a container from the outside rim or the actual inside opening - does that make sense ??? lol ! TYIA :) 

Good question and I agree great advice.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎10‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 1:55 PM, Moonstar said:

Thank you for sharing. I found both your answer + explanation very helpful. I never would of thought measuring on the diagonal. If I may ask a question, is the proper

way to measure the diameter of a container from the outside rim or the actual inside opening - does that make sense ??? lol ! TYIA :) 

the actual diameter that the candle will burn...so inside to inside. :)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/10/2016 at 4:57 PM, TallTayl said:

 only problem with square braids in soy is they tend to slump. They're not rigid enough to stand in the soy wax  the whole life  the candle. 

 

I have found that priming them with beeswax before using them helps with this issue. ;)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...