Weak fragrance ??

[Rami]

Okay so I made 38 3 oz samples with the 7 flavores I got, the smell is faint but it definitely fills up the whole room, so I'm using all natural coconut wax. And 1 oz frag per 16 oz liquid wax...

 

I pour the 185 degree wax into the 16 oz measuring cup, stir it so its all clear, then I add the fragrance , and dye, and stir it tell it's clear, then pour it in the 3 oz glass to cool. 

 

Im thinking I use 1.3 oz of fragrance becuase coconut wax can hold up to 1.6 oz. fragrance . Let me know about your opinions on how to get a strong smelling candle 

[Faerywren]

Does coconut wax need to cure? I know soy candles need cure time before they have good throw, and sometimes not even then. Why are you saying it's weak if it fills a room?

Edited April 3, 2016 by Faerywren

[bfroberts]

If a 3 oz candle is filling a room (assuming it is an average sized room), I would consider that is a success.  More fragrance doesn't necessarily increase the throw.  Every single time I have pushed the limits of fragrance load, the end result has been a pour burn (i.e. sooting, mushrooming, etc.)  
   

[kandlekrazy]

If you are using Coconut 83 wax, it's a blend of soy, vege & coconut oils so definitely needs a cure time of at least a week.  I've never used a straight

coconut oil wax as pure coconut oil melts at too low a temp IMO to make a good candle that can be used in all ambient temperatures.  I'm really not sure they even make a wax that's pure coconut oil.  Swan's says it is, but I have my doubts.  They also suggest using a fair amount of steric

to harden the wax.

Edited April 3, 2016 by kandlekrazy

[kandlekrazy]

Forgot to add, without knowing what scent you used, it's hard to say.  Filling a room is a good thing, some scents are lighter and some are heavy, and some blow your

socks off.  It just depends on the scent and the supplier as some suppliers cut their oils with carrier oils.  Size of melt pool is also a factor and 3 oz candle doesn't

have a big melt pool.

[Rami]

I'm sure it's all natural coconut wax, and when it lights it melts nicely, I'm trying to upload a picture of the burn but the file is too big, when my candle is lit 20 minutes in it looks like the top of the candle is melted and the rest is unmelted wax. The candle did smell stronger when I re lit it the second day. My wax melts pretty easily and I think that's a nice touch to my candles it looks really nice when melted, I'll try to upload a photo.

[Rami]

[Rami]

What do you guys think of these ?!?

[Vicky_CO]

If you have a full melt pool in 20 minutes you have a serious over wicking issue. You should not reach a full melt pool on the first burn until closer to 2 to 3 hours. Second burn will reach full melt pool faster but not much. Right now you are looking at a dangerously hot jar as you get closer to the bottom. Not only that you wax is burning up faster that it should and you FO is burning off at an accelerated rate.

[ChrisR]

Vicky is right, your candle is over wicked and you need to test smaller wicks.  If the jar gets too hot closer to the bottom it could shatter from the heat.   You technically should not reach a full melt pool till the 2nd,  3rd  & sometimes even the 4th burn, at approx. 3 hrs. each burn (for a 3" jar). The closer you get to the bottom your burn will clean up any residue on the sides of your container cause the hotter your candle will burn.  A rule of thumb is to burn your candle for 1 hr. for every inch it is wide, i.e. a 3" wide container should burn for no less than 3 hrs. 

[nursenancy]

I wouldn't think a votive sized container would take anywhere near 2 or 3 hours to reach a full melt pool, but I agree, it does look over wicked.

Edited April 3, 2016 by nursenancy

[moonshine]

What size and type wick did you use for that votive....definitely way over wicked 

[Rami]

My wicks are shorter than the jar, I have pre made wicks. And it doesn't get hot near the bottom. It actually doesn't get hot at all except where the flame is burning even if I burn it for 3 hours. And I didn't wait for the lit example I posted to cure. I lit it the same night I made it. I think that I wana make that a unique part of my product the fact that it makes a nice melted top layer I think looks nice, and the flame burns cleanly. What other kind of whicks would I need to use, by appropriate wick size do you guys mean a thinner wick? Or a shorter wick? 

 

 

Or or do you guys mean pour more wax so that less wick sticks out.

Edited April 4, 2016 by Rami
More info

[Siren12]

for the size of the wick they are referring to the diameter of the wick, so i would think that you may want to consider going to a smaller diameter. since you said you burned the one you posted the same night as you poured it the center probably wasn't fully cooled and helped it melt that quickly, i would try letting them cure longer and test again. 

i know that CS has a guide for their wicks/wax and what their best suggestions are for what they carry. they have the melting points for their soy waxes so maybe you could find a good comparable soy to use as a base for which wicks to test in your coconut wax. 

one of my thoughts with the coconut is that since it melts so quickly you may not get the burn times as with other waxes. 

 

- as for the scent if the 3oz is filling the room i would think that was a good throw, each scent varies though. A smaller wick and slower burn might help with the throw?

Edited April 4, 2016 by Siren12

[moonshine]

What I meant by size and type is 

HTP 

CD

LX

CDN

cotton core 

 

each wick comes in sizes appropriate for jar size and wax type - example: CD7 or 8 or 10 or 12 or 16

htp 93 or 104 or 105......

I understand your trying to use what was gifted to you BUT you need to know what you have and learn about it- that votive is way over wicked and a potential safety hazard

 

[Chefmom]

Your jar isn't hot at the bottom...right now, because the flame is near the top.  What Chris means is as your candle burns down and the flame gets into the jar and towards the bottom...THEN the flame is going to be so big and so hot by the time it reaches the end of the jar that the heat could crack the glass.  While I don't pour my votives directly into the jar, I make votives in a mold, then they are burned in the same kind of votive container.  It takes 2 1/2 to 3 hours for the flame to melt enough wax to reach the edge of the glass.  If you have a large and deep melt pool in just 20 minutes, then it's a clear sign the wick is too big.  While not an issue in the first burn, it will become a safety issue with subsequent burns.  If you are going to continue that candle to the bottom of the jar then do yourself a favor and place it on a safe dish incase the glass breaks and sends burning hot wax out. 

 

Only a tealight will have a fully melted pool of wax, top to bottom.  A 2 ounce votive that is molded traditionally burns 12-15 hours.  The votive mixture I am trialing right now is burning 16-20 depending on the wicks used. 

[Chefmom]

A smaller wick doesn't mean shorter in length, it means smaller in the amount of wax it consumes.  I don't know what wick series you are using, but just to say....the LX wick series.  LX numbers their wicks, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 22, 24.  The LX 8 wick is pretty "small" meaning that it can only consume a small amount of wax and if put in a large diameter candle, only a small tunnel can be melted and consumed.  As the numbers go up, #10 can consume a little more wax, #12 more than 10. and so on.  Think of it as you would turn on your water faucet.  If you only turn a tiny bit only a drip of water can come out, if you turn it a little more, more water comes out.  If you turn it on full blast...all the water that the pipe is capable of putting through the faucet comes out.  Wicks can "wick up" various amounts of wax depending on how small or large they are.

 

The LX is the name of the series of wicks

The number is the size of the wick, how much wax is capable of being consumed

then you can choose a length of a pre-tabbed and primed wick, that length is to make less waste.  Order short wicks for small containers, tea lights, votives etc.  Longer wicks for deep containers and pillars etc.

 

Every wick series has a different name, usually when we talk about helping with issues it's good to know what kind of wax you are using, what series of wicks you are using and the size of the jar or mold that is being used.  It helps narrow down info.

[moonshine]

I think a big part of the problem is she doesn't know what she has- it was gifted 

says she found out its coconut wax but the wicks we don't know.....

and I also wanted to add there is nothing wrong with trying to make your candles different in that you said making them unique with a melted top layer but you need to understand you haven't burned thru the candle yet and we can all see your going to have problems with that size/type wick - please read the newbie threads on this forum there is invaluable information in here 

you can't have a flame like that in the beginning and think it's going to be ok....you need to put safety first and do diligent testing over and over and over again with every fragrance you chose 

I would suggested you purchase some reputable wicks that you know what you have like maybe a CD 4 and 5 or a HTP 41 or LX 12 and 14 and see how that burns and then you should power burn it after you test it a few hours at a time/ meaning light it and let it go all day and see how the burn does and check the temperature of the glass 

I don't work with coconut wax but I imagine it's way softer than soy and little votives are tricky to not get too hot- you don't want a deep melt pool that is bad bad bad 

[Guest OldGlory]

I get the impression that you got some bad information before you got to Craftserver... as if you have a preconceived idea of how to make candles, but you don't have a clear understanding of the wicking process. That much is apparent throughout this thread.

 

You have been given a lot of great advice here - people are happy to help you make a good candle. I hope you will listen to these people who are freely and happily giving you their time and years of experience. Good luck!!

[Rami]

Yes yes yes I really do appreciate the advice and help you are all offering me, it's really nice of all of you and I would love to send out samples, please if anyone wants to test my candles let me know. Thank you all

[moonshine]

Send me one Rami

but I can pretty much already tell you that wick is too big and can't be sold like that 

send me 2 of the same if you can so I can regular test and power test 

and again like old glory stated there are many on here willing to help but you need to digest what they are telling you.....

I'm getting the impression your trying to blow thru a very important step in candle making that is only setting you up for failure before you begin 

I am not trying to be rude here but there is a lot of components in a candle before sell ready 

 

[Rami]

No believe me I am taking and digesting all of your advices I already talked to a vendor and he sent me a wick chart based on diameter openings for my candles. I really appreciate all the advice and experience you are all passing on to me, I look forward to being able to share my own experience one day with newbies just like my current self. 

[TallTayl]

16 minutes ago, Rami said:

No believe me I am taking and digesting all of your advices I already talked to a vendor and he sent me a wick chart based on diameter openings for my candles. I really appreciate all the advice and experience you are all passing on to me, I look forward to being able to share my own experience one day with newbies just like my current self. 

Keep in mind those charts are based on paraffin wax. Was never able to ascertain exactly which paraffin as there are dozens of various blends.

 

Veggie waxes (soy, Palm and coconut) burn VERY differently from paraffin and from each other. Each wax has its own special characteristics. Beeswax and bayberry burn entirely different from all of those.

[chuck_35550]

From the picture your flame is too high and your melt pool too deep but they look great. How many hours are you getting from that size?

[Rami]

1 hour ago, chuck_35550 said:

From the picture your flame is too high and your melt pool too deep but they look great. How many hours are you getting from that size?

 

A long time! If I'm burning it for 2 hours at a time I'll get like 16 hours , I think if I burned it all in one sitting 8 hours