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464 WHEN TO ADD FO?


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7 hours ago, Siren12 said:

Have you given any candles to friends to test for you? sometimes i have trouble smelling my candles because I have gone nose blind. 

?. I usually am nose blind due to making so many batches in a row I have about 3  fellow candle addict friends who test them for me 

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  • 1 month later...

I hope its ok to copy and paste this from Natures Garden. Would love your comments please.

 

 

http://m.naturesgardencandles.com/candlemaking-soap-supplies/item/soyclass/-how-to-make-soy-wax-candles.html

 

Please Note:  For many years, it has been reported that you must add fragrance oil to melted soy wax at a temperature of 185F in order for the fragrance oils to bind with the wax.  Our testing has shown that this is simply not the case. Low flash point fragrance oils can be added to melted soy wax as low as 130F (as we will discuss next);  Just be sure to agitate the wax with a full 2 minute stir (after the addition of the scent) and you will have no oil seepage in your finished candle. 

Now, for the lower end of the flash point spectrum:   Although there are not many fragrance oils with low flash points, there are a few.  Generally, they are your lighter fragrances like citruses.  Blood Orange Fragrance Oil, for example, has a flash point of 115 degrees Fahrenheit.  Typically, any fragrance oil that has a flash point lower than 130 degrees Fahrenheit; will be added at 130 degrees.  So, you would add Blood Orange scent to your melted wax at 130 degrees Fahrenheit.  You would then stir for a full 2 minutes to encourage the binding of the scent to the wax.  Now it should be mentioned that adding the scent at this temperature will reduce the amount of burn off, but it does completely prevent burn off from occurring.  This is where anchoring the fragrance comes into play.  

Anchoring a fragrance oil quite simply is blending the fragrance oil (with the lower flash point) with another fragrance oil (with a higher flash point).  This addition of the second fragrance oil therefore increases the overall fragrance flash point, making for a more stable scent.  

As an example:  In order to secure and stabilize Blood Orange (flash point of 115 degrees) in soy wax, we want to raise the flash point temperature to at least 130 degrees or higher.   This can be done by adding Vanilla Extract for example (which has a flash point of 330 degrees Fahrenheit).   This addition will both anchor the fragrance oil in the soy wax, as well as eliminate the fuel scent (a common issue with citrus scents in soy due to burn off); simply by increasing the overall fragrance flash point.  

To break down fragrance addition to simpler terms:
IF a fragrance oil is 185 degrees or higher, add it to the soy wax at 185 degrees.
IF a fragrance oil is below 185 degrees, but is higher than 130 degrees, add it to the soy wax at its own flash point- with a full 2 minute stir.
IF the fragrance oil is below 130 degrees, add it to the soy wax at 130 degrees- with a full 2 minute stir.  

*But remember, anchoring a lighter fragrance oil (one that has a flash point below 130 degrees) is also another option to help prevent burn off.  
 

 

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8 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

What the what???  Reads like hogwash to me.  There will never come a day when I add vanilla extract to wax.  Good vanilla is more expensive than FO.

:P That is funny....your remark, but seems on point!!!!!

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I agree that 185 to add is bogus, I agree that adding vanilla extract is hogwash and I think the whole flashpoint thing is misinformed. Flashpoint is noted on the bottles only for shipping safety purposes. I disregard all advice on temperature and flashpoint. Stir 2 minutes and max out the FO to the wax and never buy a scent in more than a one ounce size until you have tested it. 

 

 

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38 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

What the what???  Reads like hogwash to me.  There will never come a day when I add vanilla extract to wax.  Good vanilla is more expensive than FO.

:P That is funny....your remark, but seems on point!!!!!

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9 hours ago, Gsmakinsoap said:

I really don't think they're saying to add actual vanilla extract. Nature's Garden carries "Vanilla Extract" fragrance oil.

Exactly G. Vanilla extract for food is vanilla bean infused into alcohol. Alcohol and wax do not mix. You will find (as a few DIY people I met over the summer) that the pools of alcohol in a candle can be quite dangerous.

 

the whole bit about flash point above is misstated as well. Flash point is the temperature at which a liquid will combust if in contact with a spark or flame. I use low FP fragrance Iike lemon, blood orange, etc ALL.THE.TIME and add at normal 180-ish temps with ZERO degradation of the fragrance. Too low of a temp and the fragrance oils do not homogenize well into the larger wax particle grains causing a risk of heavier fragrances settling as the candle cools. 

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15 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

Exactly G. Vanilla extract for food is vanilla bean infused into alcohol. Alcohol and wax do not mix. You will find (as a few DIY people I met over the summer) that the pools of alcohol in a candle can be quite dangerous.

 

the whole bit about flash point above is misstated as well. Flash point is the temperature at which a liquid will combust if in contact with a spark or flame. I use low FP fragrance Iike lemon, blood orange, etc ALL.THE.TIME and add at normal 180-ish temps with ZERO degradation of the fragrance. Too low of a temp and the fragrance oils do not homogenize well into the larger wax particle grains causing a risk of heavier fragrances settling as the candle cools. 

This! I haven't read an article on NG in a long time, but why they would have this article on their site seems very VERY irresponsible to me. Especially not clarifying that the Vanilla Extract is a FO of theirs. 

It is amazing to me that so many people (especially suppliers!!) do not know, or give out intentional misinformation on what flashpoint is. It's one of my biggest pet peeves actually... UGH

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The only two times I can hint of where flash point is extremely important are:

 

1) when shipping fragrances.the US DoT has very clear reasons for knowing what is in the package.

 

2) storing/using the FO around a heat source. For instance, one FO I remember had a FP well below 100*F. It was like 85*F if I recall correctly. Someone smoking around that fragrance at a normal room temp, or using it in a typical kitchen where the stove might be gas, or the burners might be on could ignite the bottle just from those fumes. 

 

Otherwise, flash point is often completely misunderstood and meaningless in many articles. Drives me bonkers if I let it.

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12 hours ago, thelittleflame said:

I agree that 185 to add is bogus, I agree that adding vanilla extract is hogwash and I think the whole flashpoint thing is misinformed. Flashpoint is noted on the bottles only for shipping safety purposes. I disregard all advice on temperature and flashpoint. Stir 2 minutes and max out the FO to the wax and never buy a scent in more than a one ounce size until you have tested it. 

 

 

 

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It upsets me as well. As a new candle maker, they were my first go to site and supplier and I printed their supposedly famous candle making manual. Now it makes me wonder if every thing in it is misleading and has caused me problems. Don't get me wrong, I just love their fragrances and fast shipping. But have been wanting to try other places, but scared to when the first one works. Been thinking of trying candle science, peak, candlewic, flaming candle. I did order wicks from flamimg candle and was impressed at how neatly they were packaged. They were all perfectly straight!. Initially ordered from lonestar when I was experiementing with paraffin wax and their service was good. But I've spent piles of money with Natures Garden. Sorry I got off topic! Lol

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On 9/14/2016 at 8:13 PM, GoldieMN said:

If you have never gotten a good hot throw, I would start testing different wicks.  With some oils, I have had to go up in size quite a bit to get a good hot throw.  My candles are all made in pint canning jars, 464, Premier wicks.

Goldie

Goldie, what size premier do you use for a 16oz canning jar if you don't mind me asking/

 

Trappeur

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Pam, if I can make a suggestion it would be to order some oils from companies that so many like working with and who have a good reputation.  All companies, I don't care who they are, have hits and misses and god we all know that and of course that all comes from testing.  It can be frustrating when you are first starting out in this wonderful world of candlemaking and you go and order fragrances that you like yourself and want to try and then when you get them in, there is no throw.  That can be very frustrating.  So I would suggest is of course like we all do constantly is keep reading up on the posts of people who use the same wax as what you have and make notes of the ones who have great luck in your wax and advise which ones are great throwers and try some of those oils.  I would start there and see for yourself.  At least you can get an idea of what a great throwing candle is supposed to smell like instead of possibly ordering something that was a dud....You know what I mean?    Candle Science (one of suppliers) in my opinion has quality fragrances and that is a company that I recommend  as you said you were interested in ordering from in your post.  Remember though, now I know you use 464 (I do too). you need to let your candles cure....(that's a very important biggy).  I cure mine for 2 weeks....Aahhh I did test a couple though the other day and it was only a week and I just couldn't stand waiting another week and just had to try it...ha!  It was vbn from WSP and Frasier fir from Candle Science.....were just great too.  If the throw had been light or just not there after I had burned them, all I had to do was let them sit for more time.....You know you could just post here what you had on your list of what you were going to order and see what types of responses you get from others who have tried it too...Ain't this just fun? !!!:)

 

Trappeur

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39 minutes ago, Trappeur said:

Pam, if I can make a suggestion it would be to order some oils from companies that so many like working with and who have a good reputation.  All companies, I don't care who they are, have hits and misses and god we all know that and of course that all comes from testing.  It can be frustrating when you are first starting out in this wonderful world of candlemaking and you go and order fragrances that you like yourself and want to try and then when you get them in, there is no throw.  That can be very frustrating.  So I would suggest is of course like we all do constantly is keep reading up on the posts of people who use the same wax as what you have and make notes of the ones who have great luck in your wax and advise which ones are great throwers and try some of those oils.  I would start there and see for yourself.  At least you can get an idea of what a great throwing candle is supposed to smell like instead of possibly ordering something that was a dud....You know what I mean?    Candle Science (one of suppliers) in my opinion has quality fragrances and that is a company that I recommend  as you said you were interested in ordering from in your post.  Remember though, now I know you use 464 (I do too). you need to let your candles cure....(that's a very important biggy).  I cure mine for 2 weeks....Aahhh I did test a couple though the other day and it was only a week and I just couldn't stand waiting another week and just had to try it...ha!  It was vbn from WSP and Frasier fir from Candle Science.....were just great too.  If the throw had been light or just not there after I had burned them, all I had to do was let them sit for more time.....You know you could just post here what you had on your list of what you were going to order and see what types of responses you get from others who have tried it too...Ain't this just fun? !!!:)

 

Trappeur

Wonderful advice that I will certainly take!!! Thank you very much!!

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I for one am glad to know they meant Vanilla Extract FO, because I'm pretty familiar with NG's FO's, use quite of few of them actually, and my mind immediately thought Vanilla Extract...as in real Vanilla Extract.  I consider myself a reasonably intelligent person, too.  I guess my mind just automatically defaults to food.

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It seems that the writer needed to step back from their frame of reference enough to see that some folks were going to read that literally and not in terms of a scent that they carry.  If it said, "our Vanilla Extract scent" then there would be no confusion -- looking back, I guess they thought of course we would know that alcohol flares up immediately, but the wording can easily throw you off at first.  Perhaps someone here would like to gently tell them this ...?  :) 

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