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Emma Jar at Wallyworld


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Off to check! Thanks!

Ooh HTP93 in the Prestige, same as status, Thanks HS!

Their 26oz Colonial is the same thing as the apothecary jar I'm using.

Yes, I just got back on to ask her what the Prestige jar is, because I didn't see it and it's their Status jar, so we already know how to wick that one. She's not aware that HTP 126 is a much bigger wick in 4627 than the 1212 and 1312, so I'm sure she means to try the 105 or 1212 in the big Colonial jar. Thanks so much, I must try that big Colonial jar, and I pray your 1212 keeps burning nicely in it. She also said to try the same size wicks as the Colonial jar in the Elevation jar.

I just now saw your question about the wicks. No, I don't have any CD's or Eco's, but I will await your results. :D At some point I might try the C-60 and C-65 she recommended in the 20 oz Emma, but at this moment I'm a little too discouraged to try any more wicks in that one. Some use LX with 4627, but I don't know anything about those.

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I have a 22oz Lucida which is similar to the Elevation. Ok I'll try the Eco wick in the 20oz & let you know.

2 HTP73s in the cylindar that we both bought from HL aren't working. I'll try 2 83s next.

In straight-sided jars that are over 3" in diameter, like the cylinder jar we both bought from HL, they usually triple wick 4627 in those with three HTP 52's or 62's. I don't think double wicking will work in the cylinder jar. They double wick 4627 in the straight-sided jars that are 3" dia. or a bit less, like the 8 oz tin, with two 52's or 62's.

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I've dblwicked with 2 Eco2s, 2 Eco4s but the hotness of the jar at the bottom scared me away from it. Also 2 CD4s. Maybe now that I poured with only 6% FO it may work, if not I'll try triplewicking.

Are you talking about the cylinder jar? Is it the short cylinder? You posted a pic of it next to your big apothecary jar, right? It's got gold-colored wax in it? I should test that jar too.

I just finished my 2nd burn test on the DT Status jar and almost got FMP, so I'll get a FMP on the 3rd burn. I think pouring to 3/4" of the rim looks nice because you can see the flame inside the glass, and it leaves room for a glass lid fitment, and also helps it get a FMP on the 3rd burn with an HTP 104.

Edited by HorsescentS
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Yep that's the jar! Bought at Hobby Lobby 1/2 price $2.50

Maybe 3 wick if you use small enough wicks. How many ounces of wax do you put in status?

Yep, I was planning to try three 52's or 62's. I almost poured my cylinder jar, but decided to do the status jars at the last minute.

I didn't weigh my wax for the Status jar, I just marked the spot 3/4" below the rim and filled it by eye. If I had an empty DT Status jar, I'd weigh it, then I'd fill it with water to 3/4" below the rim and then weigh it again, then use the old Peak's wax calculator from the original Candletech forum to get the weight of wax needed: http://www.candletech.com/calculator/container.php

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Thanks I'll use that.

If you have the status jar wicked properly, why don't you start selling?

I need to get insurance and a hobby business license first, and I'm still thinking things through I guess. I also have the jj's, the Libbey Elemental jar, and the regular mouth pint Ball masons wicked. I want to get some tarts going, too, before I sell. I wanted to completely fall in love with a jar that I'd be excited to sell, but that hasn't happened yet. lol Like somebody on here said that Jeannie has wax issues and I have jar issues.

Edited by HorsescentS
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Not fun with this jar!

How's your big apothecary jar doing with the 1212? I've been taking a break from burning my candles by burning a 22 oz YankMe, which has soot and hangup, sometimes flickers like crazy, sometimes gets a small flame, and it's glass can get very hot depending on what level the flame is burning at, so it's a good reminder that candles don't have to be perfect and ours are already better in many ways.

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P.S. I may have figured out a way we can double wick 4627 in the 20 oz Emma jar: The reason we can't double wick it right now is the super-soft wax is melting too fast and drowning the wicks due to that shoulder trapping so much heat, so all we have to do is mix an additive to our wax to harden it up a little bit so it won't melt as fast and drown the wick. 4627 already has Vybar in it, but we could add a bit more, as I've read comments by people who got great results adding Vybar to it. If we add too much, it will tie up the HT, but the right amount could stop our double wicks from drowning...hopefully. And here's some info on some additives that harden paraffin: http://www.campbell-light.com/adtv.htm I can ask tech support for advice about the amount to add, or which additive would work best, and I'll also search for more info about additives in 4627. Or maybe adding a little bit of stearic acid would work better. But both of those additives make the wax more opaque, so we'd have to add more die and I don't know if I'd like the look. Here's a thread with a bit of info about additives: http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Discussions;action=print;num=1112822236

I just read this thread and it says not to add more than 1/8 teaspoon of Vybar to preblended wax, so I don't know if that would harden it up enough: http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Discussions;action=display;num=1117288786

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1212 in apothecary didn't go well, steady sooting. Next 126, I've tried 1212, 1213 & XL100.

2 41s in the 20oz , just had to try!

I really don't want to add anything to wax, but I'm open to all suggestions if it works. I think the HTP, CD & Ecos just burn too hot to DBLWick. What other wicks do you have?

I tried 2 83s in the cylindar jar, did ok, I'll try again today. I wonder if I should trim or not?

That's good to know about the Yankee candle, the one i tried last year was bad too.

Edited by ChandlerWicks
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1212 in apothecary didn't go well, steady sooting. Next 126, I've tried 1212, 1213 & XL100.

2 41s in the 20oz , just had to try!

I really don't want to add anything to wax, but I'm open to all suggestions if it works. I think the HTP, CD & Ecos just burn too hot to DBLWick. What other wicks do you have?

I tried 2 83s in the cylindar jar, did ok, I'll try again today. I wonder if I should trim or not?

That's good to know about the Yankee candle, the one i tried last year was bad too.

Zincs burn the coolest so I tried a 62 zinc in the 20 oz Emma Jar but it smoked too much. I have one 51 zinc wick left so I was thinking of cutting it in half and using the two halves to double wick the 20 oz Emma.

126 is bigger than the 1212 so it will smoke and soot more in the apothecary, I would try the 105 instead.

I'm glad the two HTP 83's seem to be working in the cylinder jar, because other chandlers usually triple wick straight-sided containers that are more than 3" dia.

I don't believe the HTP's are meant to be trimmed, so they'll probably be too short and drown if you trim them, which is what happens to the Slatkin candles. Customers usually don't trim, so I want to know the candle burns properly and safely without trimming.

Edited by HorsescentS
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HTP93 is doing well in the status with no trimming!!!!!!

41s are teeny, tiny little flames in 20oz.

Maybe I'll try 3 41s in cylindar after the next burn with 83s, if they don't do well.

Yes, I believe you're right on the self-trimming.

I'm glad the 93 is working in the DT Status, that's great news! It's safer if you can get a smaller wick to work. Do you have a FMP yet? I'd love to see pics if you get a chance to post them.

My DT Status jar is doing good with the 104. I almost got a FMP on the 2nd burn, so I'm sure I'll get FMP on the 3rd burn today.

You might have to use three 52's or 62's in the cylinder jar. I'll try wicking the cylinder jar too next time I pour, probably when I pour the Libbey heart bowl...maybe today I'll pour but I'm not sure...

Meanwhile, I'll keep burning my 10 oz Emma jar and my DT Status jar today with the 104's and hope they don't get too hot at the end.

Here's a list of the ASTM standards, and I'm trying to find a webpage with this info so I can find the maximum temperature for the glass: http://www.candles.org/industry.html

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I'll take a pic after the 3 hours is up, nope still no FMP.

The difference in wick size has to be because of the different climates.

You're right about the difference in wick size, and that's why I really don't want to sell candles out of state because I'd never know if it would burn safely in another climate.

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126 in apothecary is going wacky, had to trim & flickering. I'll try 105 next.

I thought the 126 would be too smokey, was it smoking? Flickering is normal, if you burn a YankMe apothecary jar candle you'll see it flicker like crazy once the flame drops down into the jar and it has to fight for oxygen, but it shouldn't continually smoke.

Update: Darn it! I just lit my 10 oz Emma jar with the HTP 104 in it that's been working so beautifully, but now it's smoking like crazy. The level of the wax is just above halfway down the straight part of the jar. The NCA says that when you first relight a candle, the flame will stretch up, dance and throw an occasional puff of smoke until it establishes a melt pool and settles down, so I expect to see that but this is much worse with LOTS of smoke! I might have to try an HTP 93 in that jar or give up on it. I'll see how it's doing after 5 or 10 minutes...

Edited by HorsescentS
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