jeanie353

Uh Oh! I've heard good stuff about Connie's and have a wish list there. What scent did you use?

Am very happy to hear of your success on the four day HT of that melt combo. Also, have told you but have to say it again...Congrats on your new home!! I've been working with 4627/415 in amounts from 10-25% on the 415 side of it. 20% seems to be the one I keep going back to but wicking is a bit of a challenge. HT is great using Ecos but the hangup seems to not want to leave until 6th(ish) burn. Still working on that. Of all the blends I've tried for containers, 4627/4633 was not one of them. Time to place that order for more 4627. Agree with the rest that 4625 is great for the pillar/tart half of the blend.

I think your candle mottled. If you want to get rid of that, you may want to check Peak, CW, CS or BCN. I believe they all give directions using 1343 on how to keep it from mottling. I don't use that wax, so I could be wrong. Many on the forum do so they may chime in and correct me, if I'm wrong to help ya out. I do the 2nd pour at 5-10 degrees higher temp than the main part of the candle was poured it. HTH and GL ETA: Just remembered, I think it is BCN that gives some easy instructions on that.

To me, they say upscale spa too but could see them also fitting into a vintage line. I like the labels a lot.

Just remembered seeing this at CW a long time ago. Maybe it's something like this but they melt the top first to hold the wick in place. http://www.candlewic.com/store/Product.aspx?q=c15,p189&title=Granulated-Wax---WACB-

Uh Oh! Hope it has no HT.

Guess I don't need that Iced Lemon Cookie in my line after all.

I started having a problem yesterday too. Today nothing is showing up new unless I go into the main part of the forum and look down the list of topics for new names who have replied.

Keep us informed ok?

I can't help but wonder why the suppliers can't post mfg. specified directions on their website with the product, along with following through on giving that same advice on FB if they have a page, rather than chandlers having to call in to get clarification. I don't like to, nor do I have time to call each and every supplier for melt temperature instructions or anything else. I do have time to check out the recommendations of the mfg. which is normally listed along with the product.

Pretty sad with what is going on with these suppliers lately. We should have a new thread up soon about how wonderful the FOs are or something similar. Many of us like CW and their products, that isn't disputed. The problem is info that not only is wrong with what we all know but info that is conflicting within the same site or high shipping costs, which Bill did address with a shipping sale, to his credit. Either these places are trashing their customers if they dare say a word (not CW), sending out wrong products (not CW), sending 5 days after ordering (not CW), giving wrong info (CW & another), and who knows whatever else. Facts are facts and the suppliers need to fix these issues without being glossed over with transparent follow up threads so we help each other and get suppliers to get their act together. I'm going to continue to add my FO at 180-185 degrees. My rant is over.

Yep! That would be the stuff. Don't feel so bad. My wickpins rock too from the bottom and I have holes in mine. Guess I need to remember less can be more on mold putty too. :undecided

Ask T. He will know what you need. Or ask for HVAC. I can send you down some otherwise. ETA: oops...didn't see Dave's post up there. Sorry Dave Yep, what you said!

I'm not sure I am understanding, but are you asking if you can remelt candles you have made with FO in them and add more FO to those? If so, I would say no. You need to weigh your FO according to the percentage of FO to wax you are going to use. The max you should go is whatever the mfg. instructions for any particular wax is. In most cases, it is not necessary to use max FO percentage. Less is more many times with candles and HT.

No! Really?

With 415 I heat to 185 and never had a problem. I see more of a problem not getting wax hot enough to incorporate the FO properly. Also, I would trust CS directions.

I was just able to get a CT side by side of SCR and SVS. I think they are different but would put them in the same scent family maybe? Everyone's nose is different. Will know on HT in an hour or two.

Use MW SCR. Did try Sissy's during the winter and it is very good but am sticking with MW. ETA: Parasoy and paraffin.

Oh, am so glad you put this question up. Been discussing this with someone else because we aren't sure either.

Label making. However, testing is closing in on taking first place.

464 will take double that if you wanted but I'd try 1.0-1.5 oz and a good cure of a week to see if that helps. Also, I've found HT can really change (better or worse) with a different wick. GL & HTH

I poke a hole with a wood skewer and stick the untabbed wick in too. Once it looks like the wick is dialed in for the particular wax or FO, then I re-make it to make sure it duplicates and secure the wick tab. I do get some that slide a little with the hole poking method but if I push them over with the skewer before the wax begins to cool down after the burn, they will go to the center.

Eco 8-10 should be in the ballpark. Is that the jar from Peak called Prestige that looks just like a Status? If so, I stopped using mine because they got too hot and created all kinds of wicking issues for me.

Seems there might be something to that. A found a few links. Here is one: http://coconutoil.com/coconut-oil-offers-hope-for-antibiotic-resistant-germs/ ETA: The foot cream does sound refreshing with the EO's in there. I'd add shea, mango, or OO. My skin doesn't like CO by itself.