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Firefly

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Everything posted by Firefly

  1. Thanks, I tried again today with a different recipe and got them both almost exact by making the soapcalc 33 for water. I'll also post when I heard from Summerbee Meadow as well if anyone else wants to know.
  2. I know this doesn't answer your question but when I'm in a big hurry (ie. I have a bunch of market or a lot of orders to fill) I use M&P instead since it's quick. I've always done both M&P and CP so it's worked for me. Unless your customers specifically want a CP soap then water discount is the only thing I've heard of to speed up time. The one time I tried discounting water was from a company that sold molds and this person swore by her method. I tried it and did the phenophthalene test on it and it took the same amount of time to cure that non discounting water soaps do. Sometimes I do the tongue method to taste soaps.
  3. Those are wonderful and I love the bright colours you used.
  4. Nice I love the cool design on the outside.
  5. Hello, I normally always use the Summerbee Meadows soap calculator but the last few times I've made soap I've used more than 9 oils and have used the soapcalc one. The first time my soap didn't work out and I had to rebatch and I made another one on Sunday night that is unscented and it's fine but it's taking forever to harden up. I used the default 38% water that is there. Does anyone know what percentage the Summerbee Meadow one uses (I have sent them an e-mail and am awaiting a response) or what water percentage would you suggest? I did a recipe on Summerbee Meadow and on Soapcalc and the closest I could get for each recipe to have the same water and lye amount was about 34% on Soapcalc. It was still more water than Summerbee uses but it was very close. I've never discounted water before in a recipe (well tried it once and wasn't thrilled with the result) and used to use The Sage soap calc until someone told me about Summerbee Meadow.
  6. sudsnwicks, Thanks for the tip about the salt bars. I may try them that way at some point. For now I'll stick with the oven method as it seems to work well for me and skip the TD. I too thought granular would be too big so thanks for the link.
  7. Hello, The only time I've had successful salt bars is by doing them in the oven. The last time I made them I did them non gel and kept them in the fridge and used too much TD in them to whiten them. They were hard but they crumbled and I think it was due to not doing them in the oven and also using TD in them. I also found them a bit harsh on my skin as they weren't smooth as they are when I do them in the oven. Do all of you do them in the oven when you make them? Or has anyone made them successfully in the fridge? Also I want to make a regular CP soap with charcoal and wonder what form you all get it in? I called a few places and found it at an aquarium shop and it comes in granular form and I haven't had a chance to go check it out yet. Is this how it's supposed to look or is it supposed to be like a fine powder? Will the granular consistency work?
  8. Fantastic for your first salt bar and I love the colours. What percentage of salt did you use?
  9. Jeana, Thanks for the explanation. It looks so nice and smooth too, but it smells divine.
  10. Jeana, For a rebatch that is beautiful soap. I'm always experimenting with recipes, scents etc. and my sister always blows up when I have to rebatch soap because she wants it to come out great every time. I'm getting better at rebatching though and making it look pretty. Did you do two separate batches to get the layers? I've never thought of doing it that way.
  11. I find layers really challenging and all the ones I've tried they rarely work. I've tried alcohol between layers, fork method between layers and neither works. Sometimes the temperature is right and it works but it's never fool proof for me. Let us know what works for you.
  12. Coco, Thanks I was wondering what I could replace BTMS with and I have ewax so that's perfect.
  13. Thanks I too was wondering about this. I don't have BTMS though, what is it. I searched on the web and saw it was a type of emulsifier. I may experiment with the recipe without the BTMS part.
  14. This happened to me with one batch and I have no idea why but I always use my heat gun to fix any uneven tops and don't ever do repours.
  15. Those are so nice and colourful. I really like the clear ones.
  16. Way to go, you will be hooked in no time if you aren't already.
  17. Hello, Coloured cubes that are Lime and Coconut with a new square mold I got. Side View of Coconut Lime M&P out of the mold: Coconut Lime M&P soap This is a Gardenia scented rebatch. This is a rebatch and will be called West Coast Trail. Same soap but another shot. That's all I have for now, I'm working on another rebatch that I'll post if it works out.
  18. Both are cool but the circle one is my favourite. I love the design and I have a PVC like that so want to try something like that now.
  19. Those are beautiful, I love the fun swirl and the blue and white one.
  20. Those are pretty. I love the darker heart.
  21. That doesn't look bad at all. Once it's cut and bevelled it will look really nice. I would not turn this into soap balls unless it doesn't cure right. The colours are pretty.
  22. I like the second country label and would go with that.
  23. singleyellowrose, Thanks, I don't think I read the title properly. I've never made cream soap but it looks great.
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